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Just returned from two weeks in the BVI. Glad to report the area is as beautiful as it can be. They had a lot of rain following the hurricanes and all the trees are green and everything looks wonderful.
We had a different kind of trip this time, no diving, guests for only four days, attended the Crewed Boat Show in Road Town, recovered our boat from St. Martin and had some wonderful meals at fine restaurants.
Since the Boat Show was held at our marina our boat was anchored just outside the marina area in Road Town Harbor when we arrived Thursday night. We stayed there 3 nights while trying to find out when our own boat would be coming back from St. Martin. We went to the Crewed Boat Show for 2 days, met lots of the crews and saw lots of the boats. We have been involved with bareboat chartering since we bought our cat but found there is a whole other world of crewed chartering for the non-sailors. It is truly a mazing what cooks can do in those galleys. And the service is as outstanding as any fine resort. What a way to go!!!
Sunday we sailed to White Bay, Peter Island for the day and night. We had never anchored there before and it was very nice, except we were under the impression very few if any other boats would be there. Well, how about a large day sail boat from St. Thom as with about 30 people hitting what was a nice, quiet beach for a good part of the day.
Monday we sailed to North Sound, Virgin Gorda and took a mooring at Leverick Bay. Tuesday we met up with the owner of another of the cats in our fleet and we sailed to Anegada together. Great fun!!! We walked up the beach to Pam's Kitchen for our fill of hot brownies and coconut ice cream. We had called her when arriving to see if she had hot brownies coming out of the oven. Great as always!!! We had another great dinner at the Anegada Reef Hotel. We asked for a table out on the beach right on the water. Lowell joined us for awhile. He is building a sea wall and extending the beach in front of the hotel.
We sailed most of Wednesday but spent the night in Road Town Harbor to check out the autohelm. That's when we missed seeing David and Susan. Thursday we began sailing up the channel and wanted to meet them at Cooper Island but the winds died down and we w ere not making much progress so cranked on the engines to get to Trellis Bay before dark. We moored next to another owner of the newest 42' cat in our fleet and had a nice visit with them before dinner. We met our friends at the airport later and brought them aboard. We get a kick out of meeting friends, walking back to the dinghy dock and bringing them to the boat and doing the same when they leave.
Weather was nice with a few occasional showers during the day but never for very long. Then we had showers most every night. It cooled things down and washed off the boat.
NOTES ON RESTAURANTS: We chose to have several upscale meals this trip and wanted to mention them.
DRAKE'S ANCHORAGE was a true delight. We called in the early afternoon and ordered from at least 7 choices of entree. We had soup, hor d'ouvres, salad, entree with vegetables, dessert and wine for about $35 per person. The duck and dolphin were our favori tes. The best dessert was like bananas foster but different flavors served over ice cream. The chocolate mousse was good too. The chef came out after dinner to meet us. It was a wonderful evening. SUGAR MILL was everything we had heard it would be, outsta nding in every way. The duck was excellent, prime rib some of the best we ever had and seafood pasta was excellent. We had a tomato ginger wine soup that was to die for and we closed the meal with the best key lime pie ever. They sell a cook book which I got with several of the recipes from our dinner. I doubt there could be a finer restaurant in these islands, about $35 per person.
SPAGETTI JUNCTION is in Road Town, very near our marina. I don't think the name gives the quality of the food justice. Our meal and service were very good. The owner visited with us during our dessert. The roasted chicken breast with prosciutto, fontina, sun dried tomatoes and light cream sauce was excellent. The seafood with Fra Diavolo sauce was truly wonderful. The chocolate mousse was excellent. We had wine with dinner and port after dessert for about $25 per person.
TAMARIND CLUB is near the east end of Tortola. We enjoyed smoked duck and snapper in a light cream sauce. Both were very good. We shared and enjoyed a cream seafood soup also. It has an open air dining room, very nice setting on the hillside, good service , about $35 per person. Although we did not eat at Conch Shell Point this trip I would put it in the same category of those mentioned.
If you are looking for a gourmet experience while on board I would suggest you stop at the Fort Wines Gourmet shop in Road Town. They have an excellent selection of wines and more great treats than you can believe. Take a few things along on your sail to make cooking aboard special too.
My wife (Susie) and I returned on 6 November from a 10 day visit to Guadeloupe, which we thoroughly enjoyed. By not traveling on the weekend, we saved about $350 in airfare and extended the trip by three days. We therefore had the time to visit Terre-de-H aut, one of Les Saintes, and we loved every minute of it. Our last three visits to the Caribbean were to St. Martin, so don't be surprised when I contrast the two islands.
I'm a person who likes to plan, so my first order of business before taking a vacation is to gather as much information as I can get my hands on and work up an itinerary and budget covering where to go, what to do, the best snorkeling spots, where to eat , and how much to spend. I have almost every travel book on the Caribbean, and those that I don't own, I have reviewed. I'm also an avid reader of the Travel Forum and Traveler's Corner in AOL's Travel section, Paul Graveline's Caribbean Travel Roundup an d Phil Stripling's French West Indies page on the INTERNET. We were well prepared for the trip. With that preamble, let's begin.
General (and random) Comments.
Guadeloupe is a large and lush. It is actually 2 islands in the shape of a butterfly, separated by a narrow section of the sea called Riviere Salee (Salty River). Basse Terre, on the left is, wetter, has a tropical rain forest and an active volcano. Grand e Terre is where most of the tourists stay and where the popular beaches are located. There is sufficient rain on the islands to grow sugar cane, bananas and other tropical fruits and vegetables. During our time there, it rained on two days for an hour or two. We simply left the beach and went exploring. Later in the afternoon, we were sunning ourselves back at the hotel. Our stay was primarily at the Creole Beach Hotel in Gosier, via a timeshare trade through RCI. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Most of the tourists staying there were from France. Families and even their dogs were taking advantage the low fares that Air France offers. Contrary to what I have read about the people of Guadeloupe, we found them very friendly to visitors. At no time did we ever feel unwelcome or in any way threatened. In what city in the north east, will you find strangers pass you on the street and say good morning or good day? During my stay in Guadeloupe, I must have said Bon Jour and Bon Soir 500 times. We broug ht back with us a warm feeling toward Guadeloupe and its people. Some knowledge of French is a definite plus, but not critical. You can find people who speak English.
The blend of Creole and French cuisine makes for fine dining. We did not have a bad meal during the stay and some were outstanding. The table wine was consistently good everywhere we dined. Their bottled water, Capes, was also very good. For you Diet Coke lovers, look for Coke Light. I found it at a little grocery store near the hotel, but Match didn't carry it. Don't bother to ask for the non-smoking section. It appeared that every French man and woman we saw were smokers. Traffic in Pointe-a Pietre is a bout as bad as anyplace I've been. With the heavy-footed drivers, and cars coming from every direction, driving is a challenge. From reports that I had read, I expected the town to be very dirty. I found it no worse than any other big city I've been to. G uadeloupe's road system is quite good and in general, well marked, although the speed limit signs seem to be out of phase with the drivers, by about 25 km per hour on the low side. Cattle and goats can be seen grazing tethered along the road everywhere on the island.
The hurricanes did cause damage to Guadeloupe. Ilet Gosier lost some of its beach and reef, and snorkeling was poor due to sand particles floating in the water. Tarare was only about 80 yards wide at the shore line and quite narrow. The water was rough an d covered with sea grass. On Terre-de-Haut, the sand at Crawen Beach is gone, replaced by rocks and boulders. Snorkeling there was also poor. Many parts of the Natural Park on Basse Terre were closed to visitors. Two of the Chutes du Carbet were not acces sible and the road that traverses Basse Terre was not open its entire length. The reefs at Pigeon Island sustained severe damage and we decided to skip going there. The Guadeloupe Tourist Office in Pointe-a-Pietre has an information sheet that shows the c onditions of the Park sites and when those that are closed will reopen.
Friday
Flight from Dulles/Washington to San Juan was uneventful. Laid over for about 3 hours waiting for the connecting American Eagle flight to Guadeloupe. The San Juan airport is frigid so bring sweater or jacket if you have to stay for any length of time. Had an airport lunch; 1 club sandwich and 2 cokes cost $13 with tip. Flight to Le Raizet was about 1 1/2 hours and was quite pleasant. Going through customs was a bit of a chore due to many incoming visitors and only one agent in the booth. Budget Rent-A-Car office was close by and they had our reservation. (By the way, their rates are by far the best). A minivan took us to our car, which was a Ford Fiesta. It was clean and undented and proved to be perfect for our needs. The route to Gosier was tricky in th e dark, but we finally found our way. Our timeshare was from Saturday to Saturday, so we arranged to stay Friday night at Les Flamboyants, a small hotel in Gosier. The room was sparse, clean, and inexpensive. We had made reservations by fax and they were expecting us. After dropping off our baggage, we drove to the supermarket Match, for some French wine ($3 a bottle) and snacks.. Match, on the way to St. Anne was not far. The supermarket in Gosier appears to have burned down. Our dinner that night consis ted of wine, cheese and pretzels sitting by the small pool, and overlooking Ilet Gosier. We couldn't appreciate the view until the next morning.
Saturday
Les Flamboyants sits high up on a bluff, and we had an opportunity to enjoy the beautiful view of Ilet Gosier and Basse Terre while having a continental breakfast. After checking out, we drove over to the Creole Beach Hotel and announced our presence. We arrived much earlier than check-in time, but they took care of the paperwork and secured our luggage. Spent the next several hours looking over the grounds and sunbathing at their beach. The water is calm and shallow for a long way out. Topless bathing is commonplace both on the beach and around the swimming pool and virtually all men wear speedos. Unless you want to single out yourself , bring one along. The hotel has beautifully landscaped grounds, a very nice pool area, two restaurants (one has a diffe rent buffet each night for $35 pp), a outside bar, the beach, a tourist office, two shops and an RCI office. A short walk away is the Salako Hotel, affiliated with the Creole Beach Hotel, which has exercise equipment that can be used. With all the hiking that we did, we never found the need or time to partake of the equipment. Our room was a good sized studio with a king size bed, plenty of closet space, private bathroom with tub and shower (no hair dryer) and a small kitchenette. No kitchen utensils were there, but some were provided later. The color TV had 6 station. Two were about the hotel and Guadeloupe, 1 German, 1 Spanish and the other 2 were French. Overall, the room was very nice. Spent the rest of the day at the beach. Had a pleasant dinner at a small outdoor restaurant across from the hotel's parking lot. There are a number of restaurants to choose from, ranging from salads to pizza to typical French. This night, we picked typical French, and it was.
Sunday
One of our favorite things to do when in St. Martin's, was going to the Croissanteria at the Port La Royale Marina in Marigot for breakfast, which consisted of orange juice, fresh made croissants and French style coffee. In Gosier, we found two patisseri es that we enjoyed; the Boulangerie and the Brioche Passion. They were close to the Catholic Church, and across the street from each other. Both were good. Cost was about $6.00. We usually bought our sandwiches there to take to the beach. They have a vari ety to pick from on French bread, that are reasonably priced and freshly made. After breakfast on Sunday, we went to Match and bought a few staples and then went in the direction of St. Anne to find Caravelle Beach. The street to the beach was not marked, but it's the first one past the ESSO station. The road is narrow and cars were parked along the side. We found a spot and continued up the road, passing little stands selling a variety of items and foods. At the end of the road, there is a turnstile on t he right that is the entrance to the beach. It's a hike to get to the best area, which is toward the main part of Club Med, and where beach chairs and umbrellas can be rented. A small beach where the naturists "hang out" is just past a jetty. Caravelle Be ach is the nicest beach we found on Guadeloupe. Palm trees are everywhere, the sand is soft and the water is clean and calm and warm. There were lots of couples and families, all French speaking. A word of caution. No toilet facilities are available on th e beach. Even when you rent chairs, Club Med will not permit use of their facilities. Closest place to go is a little restaurant on the road to the beach which has a toilet (but no paper) for patrons. We liked Caravelle a lot, but still prefer Orient Beac h in St. Martin (pre Luis). A rain storm coming from Basse Terre drove us off the beach and we used the opportunity to drive to Pointe de Chateau, where the Caribbean and Atlantic meet. Put this site on your "must see" list.
We left the rain behind as we drove eastward, to the end of the island. There is a small restaurant at the parking area. We didn't stop there but it was well patronized.. Since the lot was full we parked along the road. As I pulled in, a man from the adja cent parking spot was changing from his bathing suit to his shorts. We weren't shocked by this scene, having been to the French Caribbean several times before. As my wife says; "If you've seen one winkie, you've seen em all". I'm not so sure that I agree with her. A climb to the top of the cliffs of La Pointe des Colibris provided a panoramic view of Grande Terre and the nearby islands of Petite Terre and Marie Galante. Just beautiful. Bring your camera. Walked to Saline Beach. Soft sand, water protected by a reef but no shade to be found and no facilities. The road back to the hotel was well marked. Had dinner at la Belle Creole on Pointe de la Verdure. Susie had grilled lobster and I had fish soup and grilled snapper. Good not great. Bill was about $50.
Monday
Walked to breakfast at Boulangerie. Drove into Pointe-de-Pitre to exchange dollars and visit the Guadeloupe Information Bureau. Traffic in town by the port was beyond belief. Cars were parked everywhere. After circling around for a while and passing the p laces that we were looking for, I was finally able to park. The small car came in handy. Totally lost, (I have a terrible sense of direction), I followed Susie around the block and eventually to the bank and then to Information Bureau. The office's staff was extremely helpful and provided us (Susie) in French, with maps and the latest information on the Parc National ; what was open and what was not. I regret to admit that my foreign language skills are practically nil. I've tried to learn other languages , but the best I've been able to do is memorize vocabulary words. Fortunately, I have a wife who can speak German, French and Spanish, so I don't have to embarrass myself. Visited the outdoor market and bought an assortment of spices for $20. It was our s mall contribution to the local economy. Stopped in Match for some fruit for lunch and coffee to bring back to the U. S. This Match is much larger that the one near Gosier, and is well stocked. Returned to our the hotel; a 10 minute drive once you know the way.
One of the places to go on my itinerary was Ilet Gosier, a small island surrounded by reefs that the travel books had recommended for snorkeling. We arranged for a ride there, through the watersports center at the hotel. Cost was 100 Francs round trip, or about $19. The "uninhabited" island was also supposed to be a naturist beach, and I expected it to be quiet and mostly free of people. As it turned out, the place was crowded with locals with their boom boxes playing some form of Rap, and with visitors f rom the King Papyrus, dropping off their tour riders for some sunning and snorkeling, before going to their next stop. Overall, we were very disappointed. The beach area must have been affected by the hurricanes, because it seemed much smaller than what i s shown on post cards, and the shore line was covered with rocks. We found a spot away form the boat landing area, that had more sand then rocks and spread our towels. We were not exactly elbow-to-elbow with other bathers, but almost. They had a little sh ade. Tried snorkeling but it was poor and visibility was limited due to sand particles in the water. The reef was totally lacking in color. We walked to the Light House for a nice view of the surrounding area and mainland. Wished I had brought something t o wear in my feet. The path was covered by twigs, stones, broken glass, and other objects that were not fun to walk on. Didn't see "hide nor hair" of the naturists. I suspect that must have found a better place to commune with nature. I don't blame them. Boat came right on time to return us to the hotel. Dinner was at a Pizza and Pasta restaurant by the parking lot. We couldn't agree on where to go and finally just took the easy way out. I wanted to go to the hotel's buffet but Susie hates them, so no buf fet. My dinner was OK. I had pasta with a mixture of seafood in a white sauce. Susie had pizza. It was a very quiet dinner.
Tuesday
Got up early. Put the prior evening's minor unpleasantness behind us. This was the day to go to Basse Terre and the Park. Had breakfast at the Boulangerie, picked up sandwiches and then proceeded to Pointe de Pitre and on to Basse Terre. Route N1 follows the coast along the eastern part of the Island and is very scenic, particularly for the passenger who doesn't have to navigate the curvy road. First stop was the 3rd Chutes du Carbet near Capesterre. We knew that only one of the waterfalls (#3) was open and followed the signs to it. Soon the road became not much more than a goat path and we thought that we must have missed a turn. After a tight U-turn, we back tracked and came upon a local who assured us that we had been going the correct way. Back on th e goat path, we finally parked on the side of a clearing, locked the car and followed the path into the forest. It is about a 30 minute climb through a dense tropical rain forest to reach the waterfall. The path consisted of rocks and small logs laid cros swise. Expecting the humid and hot conditions, we dressed appropriately; tank tops and shorts. Fallen and cut down trees were strewn everywhere. A the end of the path was a small waterfall (20 meters) cascading into a little pond. It was very pretty, but after visiting Iguassu with its 275 waterfalls, located on the border of Argentina and Brazil, we are now hard to impress. On the way back to the car, it began raining and we found a shelter. Ten minutes later, we continued the walk to the car. Back on N1 we drove to the turn off for St. Claude, on our way to the volcano, La Soufriere. As we proceeded the road became narrow with many hairpin turns. We reached the Maison du Volcan, and parked. Inside the building, are maps showing the paths to the various sites and photos of prior eruptions. To the left of the building is a paved road that was closed to vehicular traffic, I suspect due to damage from the hurricanes. The sign said it was a 15 minute ride to end of the paved area. Walking, it took us about 2 5 minutes. We are both quite fit, but the steepness of the road had us puffing a bit. From there, the climb to the top is supposed to take about 90 minutes. Because of the conditions following the hurricane, it took us closer to 2 hours. The climb consist ed of traversing over rocks of all sizes and shapes. Footing was difficult due to wetness and loose rocks. Susie wore hiking boots but I had on my dirtiest Reebohs; not the best choice. The higher we went, the cloudier it got. After about 1 1/2 hours of n o-stop climbing, we saw a sign that said we were still 30 minutes from the top. What a letdown that was. Susie was beginning to feel ill from the sulfur fumes, but after a minute we resumed the climb. It began getting windy and cooler. Susie put on a plas tic ponchos (the $1 throwaway variety) that I had brought, and it helped. Determined not to be defeated, we continued our climb. At long last, we reached the top, surrounded by clouds and smoke. We were at the edge of the crater, but couldn't see the deta ils of anything. Took our pictures alongside a sign that said "L Grande De`couverte (the name of the crater) 1467 m.". We had conquered La Soufriere. Not bad for 2-50+ year olds. It was probably the most strenuous thing that either of us had ever done. It was also one of the most gratifying. The climb down, while not as tiring, was very difficult. There were many opportunities to slip and fall down very steep paths, or even down the side of the volcano. There were no guard rails. It took an hour and 10 mi nutes to reach the paved area and another 20 minutes to arrive at the car. Alongside the Maison du Volcan, we saw a sign that said the route was 15 km long. I'm glad we didn't see it before we started the climb. We may have decided not to go. Had the lunc h that I carried up and down the volcano, along side the car. Some tips: If you are not in good physical condition, don't try it; wear shoes that have good traction; bring water; take along something to protect from wind and rain.
Enjoyed excellent dinners at La Sirene, a little restaurant at the marina near Gosier. The setting reminded us of the Marina in St. Martin. Susie had a salad with shrimp for an appetizer, Calamari for her main dish, and a sorbet for dessert. I started off with stuffed crabs and then had Lambis (Conch) in a Creole sauce which was superb, and peach melba. The French bread was the best we had on the island and I licked my plate clean with it. I had read that Ti Punch was a local drink so I decided to try one . It came in a small wine glass and seemed to be 100 proof rum with a piece of lime floating in it. I didn't care for it and couldn't finish it. Cost with a half pichet of wine was about $70. We highly recommend this restaurant. Wednesday
Had breakfast at Brioche Passion. Much the same as their competitor across the street and very good. Picked up sandwiches for lunch and then did some shopping along the main street; souvenirs and a new bikini for Susie. With our usual gear consisting of c ameras, filled cooler, suntan lotions, snorkeling equipment and books, we headed toward Pointe des Chateau on our way to Tarare Beach. This is another beach that was reported to be great for snorkeling. Turned onto a small road and drove to a parking area and restaurant. The restaurant was nearly full and customers were eating what appeared to be well prepared lobster and fresh fish. Parked the car and followed a path to the beach. This beach also turned out to be a disappointment. It was about 80 yards a long the shore line, quite narrow and no shade to speak of. Rocks form a wall at the edge of the beach away from the water. There were a fair number of people there and most were nude. We attempted snorkeling but soon gave up due to choppy water, floating sea grass and sand particles. Since we had driven so far to get there, we stayed a while, had lunch and worked on our tans. In case you are wondering, we are not naturists but don't feel offended by their no tan line look. We left the beach in mid-aftern oon, returned to the hotel and sat around the pool for a little while. I looked at La Soufriere across the water and covered with clouds and proud that we had climbed it.
Walked to the Bananier restaurant for dinner. It was on my itinerary based on recommendations from other visitors to Guadeloupe. It was outstanding in every way. Attractive room and beautifully set tables We were served a complementary sampling of hor d'o euvres. With help from Elix our waiter we ordered. Appetizers were fish soup for me and pate with snails and snail sauce for Susie. Then we had Red Snapper with Creole sauce and Red Snapper stuffed with clams. With the main dish they include a portion of 5 local vegetables with the consistency of mashed potatoes, spread in strips along the side of the plate. The meals were excellent and service was impeccable. With wine, sorbet and coffee, the dinner came to 435 Francs, or $72. We had an interesting discu ssion about the hurricane with Elix, who spoke English very well. We walked back to the hotel, stuffed but content, and vowing to revisit Bananier before returning home.
Thursday
Breakfast at Brioche Passion and sandwiches for lunch. The weather looked threatening but we went to Caravelle anyway. Stopped at a vendor stand along the beach and Susie rented chairs. After a couple of hours the rain began. We waited to see if it would pass, but finally walked back to the car. Back at the hotel, we made some drinks and went down to the pool for a while. Purchased our Ferry tickets (60 Francs each r/t) and made arrangements for a cab to take us to the port for our trip to Terre-de-Haut t he next morning. We were able to leave the rental car at a Budget office not far from the hotel., a real convenience. Since it was our last night at the hotel, I suggested that we now have the buffet. A discussion ensued that turned into a tiff. Sad to sa y that we did not have the buffet or any thing else for dinner that night. Packed suitcases and spent a quiet evening reading.
Friday
We were up early. Quickly settled our dispute. (I vowed to myself never to say the word buffet again). Check out of hotel was quick and the cab, a 19 year old Mercedes in excellent condition, was there right on time. Ride to waterfront took only about 15 minutes. Arranged with Mr. Alzar, the owner of the cab, to pick us up at 5 PM on Friday. Had time to get croissants and coffee alongside the dock. The ferry, L'Express, was modern and clean and left exactly at 8 am. Water was choppy and it rained for part of the way, but the ride was not at all unpleasant. Arrived Bourg des Saintes at 9 AM. There is a little courtyard at the end of the pier that can crowded when the ferries arrive. Nearby, there are many shops selling food, souvenirs and clothing, and a n umber of places to rent motor scooters and bikes. We planned to tour the town later during our stay. Bois Joli's minivan soon arrived and we were taken on a short drive to the hotel. Too early for check in, we secured our luggage and surveyed the area. Th e view from the hotel toward Basse Terre and Soufriere is breathtaking. Walked to another "good snorkeling" spot, Anse Crawen which was supposed to have golden sands. What we found was a beach covered with rocks and boulders and no sand. I suspect it was another victim of the hurricanes. We returned to the hotel, changed into bathing suits and went snorkeling off of the beach in front of Bois Joli. It turned out to be the best snorkeling we had thus far. Had lunch at the hotel; smoked fish (an island spec ialty) for me, which was excellent and French fries for Susie that were perfectly cooked. They also have great draft beer. Spent a couple of hours at the pool waiting for our room to be ready. Pool and surrounding area are very nice. A little bridge spans the pool. Clientele were all French speaking and many with their children.
Our room was in a building up on a hill from the reception area. Not much to look at from the outside. Inside, the building was a bit drab but clean. The room wasn't fancy. It had air conditioning, a private bath, no TV, was clean and proved to be very sa tisfactory. Dinner was great. The Mousellen of Lambis was like a large ice cream scoop of chopped conch, with bits of carrot in a rice-like filler and covered with a yellow sauce. Next was a sort of fish ball on a bed of spinach. It was a bit spicy. Veget able was similar to mashed potato. The house white wine was quite good. Chocolate mousse was thick and rich; not the whipped kind I'm used to. A delightful meal.
Saturday
Enjoyed self-serve breakfast overlooking the bay. Fresh fruit, juices, bread, coffee, ham and cheese were available. This was the day that we planned to climb to the highest point on the island, Le Chameau (309 m) and then walk into town. The climb was st eep in spots and was mostly paved, with many scenic overlooks of the island. I took many pictures. The final part of the climb is a rocky path. At the top, there is a structure made of cinder blocks. It appeared to have been damaged we couldn't enter it. The walk down was easy. After a short time, we arrived in town and began browsing the many stores. We purchased scented soap made in the shop, 3-tee shirts for 120 Francs, and a summer outfit for Susie. Bought sandwiches filled with pulled roasted chicken and sauted onions on French bread that we purchased from a vendor who did his cooking on the street. Returned to Bois Joli in their minivan and had our lunch at poolside. It was a real treat. Decided to try snorkeling at Anse Crawen. We climbed over the rocks to reach the shoreline and then carefully floated on our stomachs to get into open water. A short distance out, the bottom is sandy. I guess that is where Luis took the golden sand. Snorkeling was poor. We soon gave up and left. Next stop was the be ach at Pain de Sucre, a short walk from the hotel. Path down to the beach is narrow and rocky. There is a house on the way that sells beer, sodas and water. The beach is small but has real sand. We found snorkeling here to be very good and I took a whole roll of underwater pictures.
Returned to the hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing at poolside, with our chairs turned toward the water and Soufriere, and enjoying some refreshments. It was pure pleasure. Dinner was another delight; Lambis and sea snails. Dessert was Cre pe Alasica.
Sunday
Breakfast in our bathing suits. Same selection as prior day. Susie saved some bread to attract fish when snorkeling. This was our last day at Bois Joli so we packed and brought the luggage down to be locked up. Spent the morning snorkeling by a rock forma tion that jutted out from the Hotel's beach. Susie scattered bread while I took pictures with the underwater camera. The water was warm and clear, the sun bright and we saw many varieties of colorful fish. Lunch was fish sausage and French fries (and 2 dr aft beers for me). With a noon check out time and the ferry not leaving until 4 PM, we spent the remaining part of our time by the pool and taking pictures. I was finally able to get Soufriere's peak, free of clouds, on film,. The cost of Bois Joli was 73 5 Francs ($140) per night including 2 meals each, a real bargain. The hotel's minivan left at 3 to take us to the ferry. The ferry left exactly at 4 PM and the trip back was a lot less choppy.
Arrived back in Guadeloupe at 5 PM and was greeted by Mr. Alzar, who drove us to Les Flamboyants. This time, our room was a little larger, had a refrigerator and was by the pool. Walked into town for beer and wine and had them with snacks at poolside. Din ner again at Bananier, a 35 minute walk from the hotel. Again, it was first class. My appetizer was a baked casserole filled with minced octopus, conch, and fish in a Bachamel sauce. It was a work of art. Main dishes were red snapper with local vegetables . With wine, and 2 sorbets the bill came to about $73. Found out from Elix, that the chef had been trained in French cuisine and combined his knowledge of Creole to create his dishes. This restaurant should not be missed.
Monday
Mr. Alzar was right on time to take us to the airport. The American Eagle flight to San Juan was scheduled to leave just before 8 am and we arrived at 6:30, much too early. Got a good spot in line though. Nothing was open for quite some time. Boarded 20 m inutes before flight time and the plane left on schedule. In San Juan, had a long wait to catch the plane to Kennedy and a very short wait for the commuter flight to Washington/Dulles. A roundabout way to get home, but it beat sitting in San Juan for 6 ho urs waiting for the flight to Dulles..
In summary, we loved every minute of our time in Guadeloupe and will definitely return. It has a lot to offer with the rain forest, volcano, beaches, warm climate, and French Creole cuisine. I had several things on my itinerary that we didn't get to do fo r one reason or another. That's another reason to go back.
JAMAICA: T-WATER BEACH HOTEL BY JILL COZZI
Steve and I have just returned from our fourth visit to the T-Water Beach Hotel in Negril, Jamaica. This report is an update on Jamaica in general, and on the hotel in particular, as well as a report on "the new Air Jamaica."
Air Jamaica
We had decided to fly Air Jamaica because of the terrific price for the T Water package offered by Jamaica Air Tours, the tour operations arm of Air Jamaica. The package including hotel, air, and transfers, from JFK Airport in New York was $661.95. We end ed up booking with Liberty Travel, who met the price, but stayed with Air Jamaica. The flight took off almost an hour before the American Airlines flight, and left to return to New York 1 1/2 hours later.
The new Air Jamaica, under the management of "The Bill Gates of the Jamaica Tourism Industry", a.k.a. Mr. Gordon ("Butch") Stewart is, much as I hate to admit it, an excellent way to fly to Jamaica. Its window at the International Arrivals building at JFK was not crowded and had Bob Marley music piped in...a nice touch. The plane itself (an Airbus 300) seemed roomier than comparable American Airlines flights. Meal service includes complimentary wine, beer, or champagne, and the food is a cut above most ot her airline cuisine. Arrival in MoBay was on time, and baggage delivery was prompt. We were out to the bus area within 20 minutes, and at the hotel two hours and five minutes after walking off the plane!
With the exception of our adventure on our return (which is discussed later in this report, and which I do not believe was either the airline's or the pilot's fault), I would not hesitate to recommend that even the skeptical try the New Air Jamaica. Servi ce to and from Newark, NJ is anticipated to start in December.
Jamaica in General
The economic situation in Jamaica is dire and deteriorating. The currency is devaluing at an alarming rate...the airport rate was $J36.70 to $1 U.S. The hotel rate, which had been at about $J33 since last year, changed to $J35.9 after three days. Basicall y, $J100 is about a two and a half dollar bill. Most places will accept U.S. currency now. Restaurant bills are calculated in both types of currency.
Right now the people have no confidence in the government. Prime Minister Patterson is perceived to be at best a fool, and at worst hopelessly corrupt. Butch Stewart does not seem to be loved either...he is perceived to be the front man for overseas inte rests who take the true wealth out of the country. The main difference between the Jamaican fury at government and fury at government in the U.S. is that the Jamaicans are smart enough to know who the villains are and they are not blaming the poor. Our bu s driver was even using the "r" (revolution) word, saying that may be the only way to turn the country around.
Aggravating the situation are a virtual seven plagues: crop diseases are or have recently plagued the banana, papaya and coffee crops. Recent sugar shortages have only in the last week started to ease. The price of chicken is rising at an alarming rate. Now the Gleaner is reporting that the rum industry is in trouble because of a shortage of domestically produced molasses, and that prices of salt cod, a staple of the Jamaican diet, is also going to rise in price about 30 percent.
Topping it all off is an outbreak of dengue fever, which is carried by the Aedes aegypti mosquito. As of November 8, 850 reported cases of dengue had been reported from ALL 14 PARISHES, with 25 suspected cases of the more serious dengue hemorrhagic fever . However, only 256 of the 850 reported cases have been confirmed to be dengue. At any rate, controversial aerial spraying with malathion has begun in the eastern parishes, and public service messages are rampant on radio, advising residents to avoid havi ng standing water in residential areas, etc.
There is no panic in Negril, at least, about dengue, and while it's some thing to be concerned about, I don't believe that trip cancellations are warranted, at least at this time. I'm renewing my U.S. Gleaner subscription, and will post anything I find ab out developments on this. In the meantime, it's probably a good idea to bring insect repellent with you if you are planning a trip to Jamaica in the near future, and perhaps it might be an idea to avoid things like river rafting, although I have no scient ific information to back this up...it's just what we decided to do.
With all these problems, I am happy to report that the frustration of many Jamaicans does not seem to be directed at tourists; indeed it is largely recognized that tourism is very important to the future of the country.
The Jamaican People (and a few words about tipping...)
We ran across many people in Negril this year, particularly older couples, who found Jamaica very different from other islands they'd visited, and indeed it is. One woman expressed it as "In Hawaii it's everything for the tourists, but here....well, it's for the tourists but...."
Jamaica is not a theme park, it's a country that goes about its business. Tourism is a part of that business, but it's not Jamaica's raison d'etre. Local culture exists because it is the culture, not as a floor show for the tourists. I don't mean this to sound condescending to anyone who hasn't been to Jamaica, but a successful Jamaican vacation depends on your ability to recognize the Jamaican people as individuals, and to realize that you are a guest in their country, and you should behave as you would when visiting someone's home. Jamaican people are not trained seals who perform on cue for tourists.
Just as an example, at the T Water's Friday night barbecue, I overheard a young guest who had just arrived say to one of the waiters that he couldn't understand the waiter's "accent." Well, folks, when you're in Jamaica, YOU'RE THE ONE WITH THE ACCENT, PA L!!
If you get to know the people you encounter while on your vacation... everyone from your tour bus driver to the staff at your hotel, to the fellow who sells you a Red Stripe by the side of the road, not only your vacation, but perhaps your whole outlook o n life and culture will be enhanced. Most Jamaican people you encounter are as friendly and interesting as you are friendly and interested. Relationships you build as you embark on your adventure will last for as many times as you return...and often from your home!
Remember that Jamaica is not a "hop to it" country. No waiter will be waiting on the beach to refill your drink the minute it's empty. Although this is starting to change to accommodate the promptness fixation of many tourists, "soon come" is still the wa tchword. When you're in Jamaica, leave your time schedule at home and just get into being laid back and relaxed. Obviously, you need to get to the airport on time, but if your snorkel trip leaves at 11 AM instead of 10:30, don't have a fit!
And now a word about tipping. Your package, the tour books, and all kinds of other resources will tell you that usually a 10% service charge is added onto most restaurant bills. Many people take this to mean that tipping is not necessary. But it is a fact of life that tip money is an important income source to many Jamaicans, and forget what you read. TIP GENEROUSLY when you receive good service. This may feel like you're buying friends, and perhaps you are. But in most cases, good tippers are remembered fondly, as it seems to be perceived as positive feedback on the service that was rendered to you. If you are staying at an all inclusive, where tipping is "forbidden", then this may not apply. However, the baggage handlers at the airport and the bus drive r to your hotel are not employees of your all inclusive facility, and should be tipped accordingly.
Some examples of tipping situations are the obvious: the guy who carries your baggage to the bus, the waiter at a restaurant, the maids at the hotel, the bartender. However, some other situations where tipping is warranted, indeed are: the snorkel trip op erator, the taxi driver who provides the trip to YS Falls, the Dunn's River Falls guide, the security guard at your hotel who calls to reconfirm your return pickup to ensure that you get picked up on time. Even if you've paid a fee for a trip or excursion , a tip is advisable.
And now, some good stuff about the T Water
I know that Jamaica Jim likes a trip report to be a blow by blow description of what we did on our vacation, but since we mostly relaxed and watched the sea, the sun, and the trees, it's probably more useful for anyone reading this to know less about what we did (besides, it's no one's business!) and more about what our favorite place in Negril has to offer.
The Overall Facility
The T Water's physical facility is your standard low rise beach hotel. A small pool with a few rooms surrounding it is on the road side. More rooms are over the office and down toward the beach. A meeting room in some disrepair contains a ping pong table, where the guests can play Ping pong while trying not to annoy the kitchen staff who may be bringing loaded trays to the restaurant! A small cable TV lounge allows people who can't stand being away from Monday Night Football to get their fix. A well stock ed gift shop sells the usual T shirts and souvenirs (Steve got a wonderfully hideous ceramic ashtray in the shape of a foot that says "Jamaica" and is held by a hand giving the finger...a fitting addition to his collection of cheap ceramic ashtrays in the shape of a foot!), as well as coffee, liquor, cold sodas and candy bars, and almost any kind of sundry item you might need. Going toward the beach, you'll encounter the hotel's restaurant, the Hibiscus Dining Room (more about this later) overlooking the sea, and then a pleasant, friendly, and inexpensive beach bar right on the beach.
On the second floor of the "main" building is a nice sundeck with a jacuzzi, for watching the sun set away from the sand flies. On the other side, this deck is shaded and overlooks the pool and the road...a nice place to sit and listen to the Jamaican nig ht.
Karl Luntta's "Jamaica Handbook" describes the T Water as "...tarnished and showing its age, but it still has a certain tropical allure..." And yes, no one would accuse the T Water of being a luxury hotel, but therein lies its charm. After all, what do yo u need besides air conditioning, a comfortable bed, and some hot water for showering? The Segre family has made many improvements in the facility in recent years, and the overall effect is as nice as any other hotel on the beach.
The Accommodations
We have had five different rooms (including two this trip), and have found that most rooms are pleasant, though some more than others. All rooms are equipped with air conditioners AND ceiling fans (a nice touch), and most seem to have two double beds, exc ept the beachfront rooms, which have king size beds (and televisions). Some rooms have refrigerators, some have kitchenettes, and there are some jr. suites. The management recognizes the importance of its repeat business and tries to upgrade "repeaters'" rooms where possible. I have no idea how room assignments work...there seems to be a magic formula as to which repeaters get the best rooms at any given time. Last year we were upgraded to a beachfront room, but this year our room upgrade was into a room that had, I suppose, a kitchenette with a full size refrigerator, but the kitchen sink was not connected, there was no stove or hotplate, and there was no door on the bathroom! I believe the staff was wondering why we wanted to change our room, at least u ntil we demonstrated that there was, in fact, no door on the bathroom, and the tile was very old and crumbling. This room (#32, in case you want to know) seems to be a work in progress, and I'm sure will get better over time. Anyway, we moved upstairs to a pleasant, bright room right next door to the room we stayed at the first time, and were very happy. This room had two double beds (with good mattress), a nice dresser, and a table and chairs. Second floor rooms provide a degree of privacy; first floor r ooms provide more opportunity for socialization.
Hot water is always available, but water pressure can be somewhat weak, by U.S. standards. The hotel keeps the plumbing in good repair.
There are some advantages to NOT having a beachfront room...you can get away from the live entertainment if you just want to listen to the sounds of the Jamaican night, and you do have some more privacy. However, there's nothing like throwing open your do ors in the morning and Negril's beach is two steps off your patio.
Rooms have safe deposit boxes. Rental is $3.00 U.S. /day, or you can rent a box at the office for $1.00 U.S./day. A word of advice...spring for the extra two bucks a day...it's really a convenience having the safe in your room.
The Food
OK, now let's get to the important stuff. A stay at the T Water includes a full Jamaican buffet breakfast and a light soup and salad lunch.
Ms. Beatrice Young manages the breakfast preparation, and during the course of your stay, you will be treated to a different Jamaican specialty each day ...ackee & saltfish, calaloo & saltfish, bacon sauteed with peppers and onions, ackee and corned pork, escoveitch fish, mackerel, and on and on. Wonderful johnnycake (little rounds of bread dough, fried till just crisp on the outside, like a dense roll inside), French toast or pancakes, scrambled eggs or eggs cooked to order, ham or bacon unlike anything you get in the states. Enjoy a slice of hardo bread (very dense, not quite sweet white bread) and a slice of banana bread, some fresh fruit, and unlimited Jamaican coffee so strong your spoon will stand up!
Lunch is good soup with more wonderful bread, and a small assortment of salads and fruits. If you want something more substantial, there is no lack of food and snacks all up and down the beach (see Other Dining Options, below), and you can order hot snack s from the kitchen at additional charge.
Dinner at the T Water from one year to the next has historically been "lak a box a chocolates...Yew never know what 'cher gonna get!". The first year, the beachfront dining room was undergoing renovation and a glorified fast food menu was served in the "p ing pong" room. The next year, the dining room re opened, and served outrageously priced continental cuisine. Last year a HUGE menu included both the overpriced continental menu AND a wide assortment of Jamaican specialties, served in copious quantities.. .a step in the right direction, but still a bit schizophrenic.
Four months ago, Wayne Sharpe began what I hope will be a long tenure as chef. In addition to being just about the friendliest and most pleasant guy on the face of the earth, Wayne is a heck of a chef with a wonderful eye for presentation and a keen sense of marketing. In just a few short months, he has turned the dinner service at the T Water from a haphazard experience at best to a place worth staying "home" for. He has stripped down the menu to about a dozen or so entrees that work best, including chic ken dishes, fish and seafood items, and some steaks and chops (though why anyone would eat steak in Jamaica is beyond me). Everything is of very good quality, served impeccably by dining room manager Earl's staff of able trainees and veterans. If there's anything you don't like, or indeed anything you particularly like and want the recipe for, talk to Wayne, whose winning personality and accessibility makes dining at the T Water like visiting a friend's home for dinner.
Friday nights is beach barbecue night, and Wayne puts together one of the nicest spreads we've ever seen in Negril. Ribs and chicken, with either jerk or barbecue sauce, pasta, salads, lovely sauteed vegetables with a hint of allspice, and desserts to die for. During the week we were there, Steve ate two huge wedges of a climate defying New York style cheesecake, and strudel like blueberry tarts that he assures me were wonderful (I was too full of cheesecake to even try the bread pudding).
The Bar
The T Water attracts people from many other hotels, drawn by the bar's location directly on the beach. Bartenders Spike (who was on vacation while we were there), Lionel, Paul, and Elton prepare excellent drinks at reasonable prices and provide good conve rsation as well. Most blender type drinks are about $J90 (or about $2.50 U.S. as of this writing). I call Paul "The Doctor", as Steve has been ill twice during trips to the T Water. Once he had a 24 hour stomach bug, which Paul treated effectively with pl ain banana milkshakes, and this trip he had a head cold, which he treated with strong, spicy bloody Mary's.
The hotel does allow you to leave a Visa card imprint and run a tab at the restaurant and the bar. Bear in mind that you will probably be charged in Jamaican $, and the exchange rate at the hotel is not as good as the real prevailing rate. But it does all ow you to not carry money, if you don't want to. However, keep in mind what I wrote about tipping! Also, I believe the bar accepts only Jamaican currency.
The Activities
Although the T Water does not provide a nonstop round of organized activities (thankfully), just about anything you might want to do is available. There is virtually nonstop beach volleyball, ping pong, available tennis, slot machines (a less than pleasan t addition), and available board games. Snorkeling trips and island picnics on the Local Motion can be booked at the Activities desk or directly from Ray, Jack, or any of the other "boat guys." Craft and jewelry items can be purchased right on the hotel's grounds. The hotel very quietly seems to have arranged for guests to be able to obtain anything they want without leaving the grounds and getting hassled elsewhere. If you need a taxi, you can get one right at the front of the hotel, and you know you won 't be ripped off.
Beach towels are available at the desk for a $20 deposit, refundable when you return the towels before you leave.
Parasailing is available not far away, as are jet skis, and the Negril Scuba Centre operates at the Negril Beach Club next door. You may also run into Wayne Sweeney of Country & Western Tours as you walk up the beach, and he can arrange horseback riding a nd YS Falls trips for you.
The Staff
What separates the T Water from most other hotels is its staff. Unlike most other hotels, the T Water has very low turnover, and it is likely that the staff members you become friends with this year will still be there for years to come. Morale seems to b e quite good, and the management seems to be fair. If going to Jamaica is being a guest in someone's home, then being a guest at the T Water is to be a guest of a most gracious host. Unlike the obsequiousness you find elsewhere in the Caribbean, the T Wat er staff has many friends among the guests...indeed, bartender Donald Spike often visits guests in the U.S. on his vacations. I've already mentioned some of the staff, and don't want to forget our dear friend Joy Cooper, who may seem intimidating at first , but is a lovely woman who understands my anxiety about late buses back to the airport and this trip called Tropical Tours for me the day before and (while embarrassing the heck out of me) did assure that our pickup would be on time. Also of note (not to snub or minimize the contributions of the rest of the staff) are Carol Evans in the gift shop, breakfast waitress Dorette Jackson, and "Dinner Howard", whose last name I'm embarrassed to say I didn't get.
Other Dining Options
If you decide to have a more substantial lunch, or just want to try a few other places, we recommend the Beach House Cafe, which is right next door, and serves good Jamaican specialties, a garlic lobster pasta that Steve says is superb, and very fresh fis h.
The Bar B Barn serves excellent chicken, pork and seafood dishes on a beachfront patio. My reservations about the Bar b Barn are only with their limited menu, and they are a bit pricier than elsewhere. They do, however, have an extensive dessert menu.
A number of other people have recommended Kuyaba, which is up the beach a bit, right before the Tamboo Tavern, which has good conch pizza and the only kitty cats you're likely to see at this end of the beach.
Go to De Buss at least once and have jerk chicken and french fries.
You MUST take a walk up the beach at least once at lunchtime and have a patty at Sonya's (thanks to Joe Zawacki for this one). Walk north toward the Charela Inn, and look for the sign for Sonya's Vital (sic) Shack. Step through the trees to a funky cluste r of barely standing beach shacks, and ask what kind of patties they have. A patty and a soda will run about five bucks U.S., and worth every penny. The day we went, they had chicken patties and vegetable patties. Chicken patties were a flaky crust (I don 't want to know what the shortening was!) surrounding wonderful curried chicken with carrots and calaloo. Very rich, and you can't eat more than one, but worth the trip...and NO HIGGLERS!
A Word About Higglers
While there are fewer higglers than there used to be, there will always be people of varying degrees of repute who want to sell you something...from ganja, to hair braiding, to reggae bracelets, to bottles of orange juice. Buy if you want, but negotiate p rices. Higglers are just trying to make a living, but until you're used to it, it can be disconcerting. Don't let anyone slap aloe on you and then demand a tip. And NEVER, NEVER, NEVER, NEVER say it's your first trip to Jamaica. NEVER wear long pants and shoes on the beach. Avoid carrying your camera too much. Not because of theft, but because these are a bright red neon sign that screams DOESN'T KNOW THE SCENE...EASY MARK!!!! If you don't want to buy something, just smile and say no thanks.
By the way, there's a charming girl who hangs out up by Alfred's who has wonderful braids. If I was inclined to get braids, I'd let her do them.
Nightlife
While I recommend retiring early so you can watch day break over the mountains and take an early morning beach walk when it's still cool and no one is awake but the fishermen, there is more nightlife available on the beach side than ever before. Almost ev ery night, you can find a live reggae party or floor show. Some places to find nightlife are Alfred's, Charela Inn, Negril Gardens, De Buss (which has shows three times a week, often with headliners such as Yellowman, who was scheduled for Nov. 14). Guys will walk the beach announcing where there will be things to do at night.
Skeeters
Especially with dengue fever around, it's a good idea to bring insect repellent. You'll need it at night, if you're anything like me, as I'm a free, free, free all you can eat nightly beach buffet for mosquitoes.
Beach Doggies
Probably no one is interested in this but me, because in 1979 my mom spent the better part of a Barbados vacation arranging to bring a beach puppy home, but Negril is a haven for beach dogs. Some beach dogs are pets, some are marginally owned, and some ju st come down from the mountains. These dogs are friendly and gentle, and usually like to be petted (and of course, fed.). Caribbean Brown Dogs have a depth of soul unlike most dogs in the U.S.
If you decide to try the T Water, please let me know, and I'll write and let them know you're coming. I guarantee you'll have a good time. I'm also happy to answer any questions about Negril in general.
We have just returned from two plus weeks in St. Croix. Every time we go I think my enthusiasm for the island will wane, but it never does. Although there is some hurricane damage evident, for the most part the island is as beautiful, and intact, as ever. I believe everyone now has power and telephone and, of course, cable TV!
We tried a few new restaurants this trip. It is almost unbelievable how many very good restaurants are on this island. I don't know how they all stay in business. Our favorite find this time was No Bones Cafe which is in Gallows Bay. The Seafood Chowder i s the best in the entire world (I'm convinced of this - we went back THREE times for it. Also, the fish and chips, with a variety of different fish, is excellent. If anyone takes our advice on this please be sure to tell Chef Tomas, resident gypsy that Su zanne sent you. We made a deal that if I refer twenty people to him before I go back to St. Croix in January he will give me the recipe to his seafood chowder. Be sure to let me know if you do this so I can keep count!
On The Beach in Fredericksted has an excellent Sunday brunch and Cafe de Soliel, also in Fredericksted, had a great dinner. We were taken to dinner by friends at the South Shore Cafe which, although off the beaten track, was quite good.
Diving was, as usual, good although due to all the tropical storms, visibility was less than usual but still much better than most places. Cruise ships have been docking in Fredericksted almost every day and as a result the streets of Christiansted are un characteristically filled with tourists.
Overheard comments indicate they all like St. Croix very much. There are now four beer drinking pigs at the Dominoe Club -- don't worry, it's non-alcoholic beer. It is kind of fun to watch them, especially for someone who has never been there before.
After three years of intending to do it but never actually doing it, we golfed the Buccaneer course. The course was in very good shape. We lost untold numbers of balls in the water but I'm sure this will not happen to more accomplished golfers.
As usual, Grapetree beach was a delight. We were there on a Thursday and had the whole place to ourselves. We also went on one of the best Rambles Ruins we have ever gone on at Estate River. We walked through fields where cattle were roaming, to a sugar m ill ruin and down through the old village. It was a very enjoyable experience.
If anyone is interested in history and on St. Croix when the Landmark Society is having one of these Rambles you really should make a point to do it.
If you have been thinking about going to St. Croix, don't be deterred by the Hurricanes. The island is in fine shape. It did not sustain anywhere near the damage St. Thomas or some of the other islands sustained. You won't even know a hurricane visited th e place.
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