Caribbean Travel Roundup

Newsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor


Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 110
December 1, 2000

Last Update 28 November 2000

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MEXICO: ISLA MUJERES CALMS DOWN ROARING CANCUN BY HABEEB SALLOUM

 
We  could  feel  the  tranquil  atmosphere  of Isla Mujeres (Island of 
Women)  almost  before  we  reached its shore. A short ferry ride from 
the  jet-set life of Cancún - Mexico's most affluent resort, seemed to 
have  put  us  in  another  world.  Instead of endless gigantic modern 
hotels,  seemingly seeded in the sands, the island's white homes could 
be barely seen above the waterline. 

Instead  of  beaches lashed by fierce waves and crowded with humanity, 
we  could see in the distance almost empty palm-lined sands, lapped by 
gentle  blue  waters.  As  we  disembarked  in the island's only town, 
known  simply  as  `el Pueblo' (the Town), it was apparent that we had 
left Cancún's hectic life behind. 

Isla  Mujeres,  just  13 km (8 mi) across the Bahia de Mujeres (Bay of 
Women)  from  Cancún's  hotel  strip,  is a fish shaped speck of land, 
barely  8  km  (5  mi)  long  and less than half a km wide. The entire 
island  is  edged  by sparkling sandy beaches, splashed by transparent 
crystalline  waters.  The best swimming is on the west and north where 
the  sands  are  edged  by  protected  waters. On the east, facing the 
Caribbean, swimming is hazardous due to the strong undercurrent. 

Once  an important abode for Mayan female goddesses and then later for 
pirates,  Isla  Mujeres  is  today a reminder of the leisurely pace in 
Mexican  resorts  before  modern  tourism.  It offers some visitors an 
alternative   to  roaring  Cancún  and  to  others  a  quiet  no-frill 
vacation.  Amid the whistling of breezes and the gentle sway of palms, 
one  can  find  relaxation,  explore  the  dramatic underwater life of 
mystical lagoons or just laze or stroll the beach.

Francisco  Hermandez  de  Córdoba,  the  first Spaniard to set foot in 
Mexico,  arrived  in  1517 and named it Isla Mujeres after the statues 
of  hundreds  of female goddesses - bare breasted in the manner of the 
Mayan  Indians  - he found on the Island. In later centuries it became 
a  pirate  refuge  - a place where these outlaws, roaming the seas for 
victims, would leave their women for safety.

Leaving  the pier, one of the two on the island, we walked the streets 
of  this small bustling fishing village of the some 15,000 inhabitants 
and  a  downtown  area  of  just  four  by six blocks. The cobblestone 
avenues,  sidewalk  cafes,  colourful  handicraft  shops  and friendly 
people  gave  it  an appealing aura which has for years inspired poets 
and other literary artists.

In  the  shadows  of  nearby  Cancún,  el Pueblo remains a restful and 
quaint  retreat.  It  still retains its charm and tranquil atmosphere. 
As  you  stroll  the  streets  in  the  evening  you will see families 
gathered  together  in  Caribbean  styled homes, tucked between stores 
and  restaurants,  mending  their  fishing  nets and relaxing. This in 
spite  of the island being discovered by a good number of tourists who 
come from Cancún to shop, swim and snorkel.

We  lingered  awhile  in  its main square, enjoying the colourful life 
around  us.  From  here,  it  was only a 10 minute stroll to Playa los 
Cocas,  edging  the  town on the north shore. The topmost beach on the 
island,  it  is a long stretch of powdery white sand, gently washed by 
shallow  turquoise waters with no undertow. Yet, its sands have gained 
some  notoriety. It is the only topless beach near Cancún - said to be 
a  concession to the Mayan goddesses who exposed their upper torsos to 
the world. 

After  romping  in  its soothing sea and warm-soft sands, we walked on 
Avenida  Rueda  Medina,  the  main street of town, leading to the only 
paved  road  which  runs  the  whole  length of the island. Stopping a 
taxi,  I  asked  in my broken Spanish, "How much to rent your taxi for 
two  hours?"  "Only $50.," as he waved us to enter. "$50.!," I feigned 
anger.  After  a  few minutes of give and take we agreed to a price of 
$15. for a two hour exploration of the island.

Our  first stop was Playa Lancheros, noted for its turtle pen, where a 
few  of  these sea creatures are still kept. Once one of Isla Mujeres' 
principal   products,   the  sea-turtles  are  now  on  the  verge  of 
extinction.  A  few are kept in a water enclosure with a number of de-
toothed sharks solely for the pleasure of tourists. 

After  romping with these sea creature for awhile, we walked on a path 
to  the  ruins  of  Mundaca's  hacienda  -  a reminder of the island's 
turbulent  past. One of the last of the Caribbean pirates to call Isla 
Mujeres  home,  Fermin  Mundaca  de  Marechaja fell in love with an 18 
year  island  beauty and, to marry her, promised to give up his wicked 
way. 

As  a  mark  of his devotion he built a magnificent hacienda which was 
entered  through  gates  carved with her name. However, his wooing was 
in  vain. After he found out that she had married a young islander, he 
slowly  went  mad and eventually died broken hearted. Today, the ruins 
of  Mundaca's  hacienda,  a grandiose example of `love's labour lost', 
is one of the most important tourist sites on Isla Mujeres.

A  few  minutes  drive  and we were in El Garrafón, an underwater park 
and  beach  area  on  the southern tip of the island. Here, tour boats 
from  Cancún  anchor  in  order  for  tourists  to  snorkel  in a once 
picturesque  coral  field  amid  tropical fish, a mere half dozen feet 
from  shore. In the last few decades, there have been so many visitors 
that  the  corals  are now mostly quite dead. Tourist dollars are much 
in demand and little has been done to protect the fields.

A  short  distance  away on our return trip, we stopped to examine the 
ruins  of  the  Mayan temple Ix-Chel, partially destroyed by hurricane 
Gilbert  in  1988,  but  did not tarry long. When compared to the many 
Mayan  ruins  in  the  Yucatán  Peninsula,  those  of Ix-Chel appeared 
insignificant.

Back  in  El Pueblo, we left the taxi near the piers where most of the 
town  activities  take  place. We priced the hotels, eating places and 
the  handmade  goods in shops, finding the prices much more reasonable 
than  those  in  Cancún.  After  a  fine  meal  in one of the peoples' 
restaurants,  we  bought our souvenirs at half the mainland prices. It 
was  a  satisfying  end  to  our one-day visit to Cancún's rustic isle 
where  village life still sets the pace and time passes slowly, making 
one's dream vacation a reality.

IF YOU GO

How to get to Isla Mujeres:

>>From  Cancún, there are various ways to reach Isla Mujeres. Excursions 
are  offered  to  the  island. They include a full day of sightseeing, 
snorkeling  and  all  the  food one can consume. However, to savor the 
island,  a  visitor  should take a peoples' ferry from Puerto Juárez - 
the  port  a  50  cents bus or $4. taxi ride from Cancún city. Express 
boats  leave  every half hour. The crossing takes about 15 minutes and 
the  fare  is  US$3.50. The slower 'People Ferry' boats taking approx. 
45  minutes  cost  US$1. When you arrive on Isla there is a taxi stand 
at  the pier and 'tricycles' waiting to help you with your luggage and 
escort you to the hotel

Two Good Places to Stay on Isla Mujeres: 

There  are  more  than 600 hotel rooms on Isla Mujeres - mostly in the 
budget  class.  My  favorites are Hotel Cabañas María del Mar on Cocos 
Beach - beautified with Moorish arcades and 

Hotel  Na-Balam, Located on Playa Norte and offering an excellent view 
of sea and sand. 

A Good Place to Eat:

El  Bucanero  -  a  large  reasonably priced outdoor cafe which serves 
good  seafood and Yucatán specialities. Cost of meal about US$15., but 
peoples'  eating places across from the ferry dock - serve seafood and 
Yucatán specialities at about half the price.

For further Information and Prices, Contact:

Office  of Tourism Isla Mujeres: Tel: 877-0307 and 877-0767. Fax: 877-
0307. 

E-mail: infoisla@prodigy.net.mx 

MEXICO: RIU PALACE, RIVERIA MAYA BY KELLEY HENKEL

Trip 6/00

  I  must tell you about our summer vacation this past year to the Riu 
Palace  right  outside  of  Playa  del  Carmen,  Mexico in the Riveria 
Maya.   I  have been to several all inclusive resorts but never have I 
been  to  an  all-inclusive  like  this!   The food was excellent, the 
drinks     were    cold,    the    service    was    excellent    (the 
waiters/bartenders/desk  clerks,  etc.),  and  the  appearance  of the 
resort  was  impeccable.   It  truly  was  a  palace,  with fountains, 
gardens,  and  we  were  made to feel like royalty.  Huge chandeliers, 
marble  and  tile  throughout,  and  the way the personnel attended to 
your  every need...it was paradise.  It is the mother hotel to the Riu 
Yucatan  and  Riu Tequila where you could visit those resorts, but the 
vacationers  at  those  were not allowed to visit the Riu Palace.  The 
Riu Palace was brand new, that could account for it's appearance. 

On  our  first  full  day,  we  went  to  our  room after breakfast to 
retrieve  our  forgotten camera, and the staff were literally on their 
hands  and  knees  scrubbing  the  floors,  with  the furniture moved, 
scrubbing  underneath  the  bed!   This  was their daily room clean up 
procedure!   (We  saw this daily as they would be cleaning other rooms 
as  we walked by).  This was not only limited to the rooms, which were 
very  spacious  and  beautiful anyway (with a minibar that was stocked 
daily),  they  scrubbed  all floors, walkways, etc. daily in the early 
morning  hours  when most people are sleeping.  This resort is not for 
the  party-going  type.   It  is very quiet, with one piano bar, and a 
bar  on  the  beach,  a  bar  at  the pool, but they did offer nightly 
entertainment  on  the  very  large  patio  (I wouldn't even call it a 
patio,  maybe  a  courtyard) with a bar.  This vacation is perfect for 
anyone  who  just  wants to get away from it all and be pampered.  The 
beach  was  immaculate.  There were hammocks in the palms for the days 
you  needed  shade, there were enough beach chairs for everyone on the 
huge  beach  which  was very clean, raked every morning, and no rocks.  
There  are  two  pools  with waterfalls. They were also beautiful with 
large  flower  motifs  in tile on the bottom floor of the pool.  There 
was  a  jacuzzi,  but  wouldn't  recommend  it, the water was tepid at 
best,  but in the middle of summer, sitting in a jacuzzi isn't high on 
my priority list.

I  know  to  most this may sound uneventful, but you could also rent a 
scooter  and  venture out, or walk or take a cab to the town Playa del 
Carmen,  where  you  could  get  the  ferry to Cozumel should you need 
adventure.   The  doorman  at  the Riu Palace would order up a taxi to 
you  as  soon  as  you  walked  out  of the "Palace".  To have the Riu 
Palace  wristband  on  in  town,  you  were  treated  with  a  special 
prestige,  it  seemed,  to  get a return taxi.  The taxi drivers would 
say  "AAAH  Riu Palace come with me please".  We were actually singled 
out  among other vacationers for a taxi first in the town of Playa del 
Carmen!  I cannot say enough about this resort, just visit it.  It was 
the best vacation I have ever had.

ST. JOHN BY SANDY AND DAVE DUDICH

Villa Serenity on St. John"

INTRODUCTION  - This is a trip report of our stay at Villa Serenity on 
St.  John  in  November 2000. This was our fifth stay on St. John, and 
we  have  gleaned  lots  of useful information from the experiences of 
others  as  posted  to Internet bulletin boards, so this report is, in 
part,  a payback attempt to share our experiences with others, and, in 
part, a reference for our next visit. 

ST.  JOHN  -  We  first  visited St. John in 1996 to celebrate Sandy’s 
50th  birthday.  The  reasons  we  keep returning are that St. John is 
beautiful,  laid-back,  uncrowded,  and  offers  beautiful beaches and 
great  snorkeling.  Because  2/3  of  St.  John  is National Park, the 
population  is  only about 3500 people on 21 square miles, and most of 
the people and houses are concentrated in the Cruz Bay area. 

I’ve  seen  questions  posted to the effect "Please list the five best 
and  five  worst places on St. John so that I can maximize my vacation 
time  there."  If  you  want to maximize your vacation time, I suggest 
you  go  to  go  to Orlando and visit Disneyworld instead of St. John. 
Once  you  get  off  the  ferry in Cruz Bay, time takes on an entirely 
different  concept,  particularly  if  you  are  staying in a villa. A 
couple  of  times  when  we were in Cruz Bay lounging around the ferry 
dock,  we’d see the cruise ship folks clutching their matching snorkel 
bags  being  herded  onto the taxi fleet for their two-hour snorkeling 
experience  at  Cinnamon  Bay,  and  we  felt sorry for them cause you 
can’t really experience St. John on a tight timetable.

VILLA  SERENITY - The three outstanding features of Villa Serenity are 
its location, its location, and its location. 

The  first  location  advantage  of Villa Serenity is its proximity to 
the  beach.  On  our  first three visits to St. John, we had stayed in 
villas  on  Gifft  Hill, overlooking Cruz Bay. This is a nice location 
for  first-timers,  since  it is close to town, centrally located, and 
provides  a  great  view of St. Thomas. However, whenever we wanted to 
go  to  the  beach, we always had a 15 - 30 minute jeep ride. Prior to 
our  fourth  visit  we  discovered Villa Serenity, which is located at 
Mary  Point  which is at the end of the North Shore Road, and is about 
a  5 minute/ ¼ mile walk to the beach at Francis Bay, which had become 
one  of  our  favorite  beaches - it is large ( about 100 feet long) , 
uncrowded  (since  its the farthest beach on the North Shore - about a 
30  minute  ride  from town) and offers beautiful snorkeling along its 
northern  edge. We often walked to Francis Bay at 8:00 am and would be 
the  only  ones  there  for  an  hour or two. At most there would be a 
dozen  people  there  all  day  (except when Caneel Bay would set up a 
picnic lunch at one end of the beach.)

The  second location advantage of Villa Serenity is that it is located 
in  a  cluster  of three houses on a little driveway above the road to 
Francis  Bay.  However,  because  of  the  vegetation, you can not see 
either  the  road  nor the other houses from the deck that extends the 
full  length of Villa Serenity. The nearest houses you can see looking 
eastward  are  on  Tortola,  BVI, looking westward, on St. Thomas, and 
there  are  no houses to the north on Mary Point. Since no one can see 
you,  the  only things you need wear on the deck at Villa Serenity are 
a  smile,  suntan  lotion,  and  a  hat (unless you’re bald its really 
tough to rub suntan lotion onto your scalp!)

The  third  location advantage of Villa Serenity is that it is about a 
15  - 20 minute walk to the Maho Bay Campground. The Campground offers 
its  own  little  store,  restaurant, and activities center, and, most 
importantly,  it  offers a shuttle into town every two hours from 8 AM 
to  8 PM for $4. On our first three trips to St. John, we had rented a 
jeep  for  about  $400  /week  including  gas.  The proximity of Villa 
Serenity  meant  that  we  could  do  without a rental car. Now if you 
haven’t  been  to  St.  John  before, a rental car is a definite must, 
cause  it  can  take you to beaches you might otherwise miss. However, 
if  you  use  the  rental  car funds for sailboat rides instead (as we 
did),  you’ll go to beaches that are inaccessible by car. The Maho Bay 
Shuttle  will  drop  you off at any beach on the North Shore, and pick 
you  up  on  any  return  trip.  In  addition, Maho Bay activities has 
scheduled  group taxi rides to other St. John activities, such as Salt 
Pond  beach,  the  National  Park  Service  Reef  Bay  Trail hike, and 
various restaurants

Villa  Serenity  itself  is a four bed-room, three bath house, with an 
enormous  deck.  (It  is a lot more house than the two of us need, but 
the  rental price depends on the number of occupants.) We rented Villa 
Serenity  from  Terry  Witham  (see  REFERENCES  section for her phone 
number  and  e-mail).  We  found  renting from Terry (who lives on St. 
John)  to be a big advantage over renting from a realty company. After 
our  first  visit,  we had from suggestions for some improvements, and 
Terry  was very accommodating in implementing the suggestions prior to 
our  return.  Furthermore, Terry must know every resident of St. John, 
so  if  you  have  any questions about snorkeling, or beaches, or what 
boats to rent, Terry either knows or can find out. 

  WHAT  TO  PACK  - Every trip to St. John, we’ve packed fewer clothes 
and more support supplies.

For clothing at Villa Serenity you’ll need suntan lotion (lots of it -
  we packed 5 tubes of #30 this time), and bug repellent. When we were 
there  in  May,  we  had  no  problem with the no-see-ums, but on this 
trip,  Sandy left looking like she had chicken pox. We found Avon Skin 
So  Soft  to  be  completely  ineffective, and instead used deep woods 
from  Walmart.  (Earlier I mentioned that you need a hat on the deck - 
there are straw hats on top of the refrigerator.)

To  go  to  the  beach,  you’ll  need  a swimsuit, sandals, a colorful 
coverup,  a hat, suntan lotion, bug repellent, and snorkel gear (Villa 
Serenity  provides snorkel gear, but I think you’re more likely to get 
a  better  fit  by  bringing  your  own.) (The purpose of the colorful 
cover-up  is  to  hang from a tree on the beach so that it serves as a 
beacon  so  that  when  you go snorkeling you know whereto return to.) 
You’ll  also  want  to  pack  along  some  water bottles (we brought 4 
bicycle  bottles  with  us),  as  well  as  some granola bars or other 
snacks.  We  also  brought  some  underwater cameras that we bought at 
Walmart  for  about $8 each. (You can bring beach chairs down from the 
Villa.)

To  go  to town (or anywhere else on St. John) you’ll also need shorts 
and  a  tee-shirt,  and  tennis  shoes  if you’re going hiking. And of 
course  a  fanny  pack,  or  back  pack,  to carry your water bottles, 
suntan lotion, and bug repellent. Don’t leave the villa without them!

If  you  pack  any more clothes than these, you’ll probably bring them 
home  unworn.  You  can’t  pack  too  few  clothes or too much sun tan 
lotion! 

Most  of  our  luggage  was  food, because we ate most of our meals at 
Villa  Serenity.  We  bought a soft sided 20 can cooler at Walmart for 
$10.00,  filled  it  with  5  lb. frozen shrimp, frozen steaks, frozen 
scallops,  and other frozen foods and carried it with us on the plane. 
We  also  brought  dry  food  like spaghetti, rice, oatmeal, dry milk, 
seasonings,  etc. In previous visits, the largest grocery on St. John, 
the  Starfish  market, was about the size of a 7/11 and offered a very 
limited  selection.  However  Starfish  has  opened  a new much larger 
market,  so  we’ll  probably buy more of our food on island during our 
next visit.

WHAT  TO  DO  - Your first day, walk up to the Activities Desk at Maho 
Bay  Campground to see what they have scheduled for the week and when. 
Activities vary quite a bit from week to week.

On  Monday  and Thursday, the NPS offers a guided Reef Bay Trail hike, 
with  boat return to Cruz Bay, and Maho Bay has a shuttle to the trail 
head.  This fills up fast, but we found it to be a day well spent.. On 
Wednesday,  Sadie  Sea  does a round St. John snorkeling tour. This is 
still on our "To Do" list for the next trip,

Most  mornings  we’d  wake  at  first  light  (about 6:00 am) and have 
breakfast  on the gazebo while we watched the sun rise. Then we’d head 
for  Francis Bay around 8:00 am for some snorkeling. Around noon, we’d 
head  back to the deck of Villa Serenity to get an all over tan and to 
drink  some  rum  punch.  While  there  is a hammock on the deck large 
enough  for  two,  we  found  the very sturdy lounge chairs to be much 
more  comfortable  for sunning and whatever. Afterwards we’d head into 
the  shade  or inside to get out of the mid-afternoon sun. Around 3 or 
4  we’d  walk  back  to  Francis  Bay  for more snorkeling, and around 
sunset  (5:45  p.m.) have dinner. The PBS station in St. Thomas is the 
only  TV  at Villa Serenity, so in the evening we’d usually read or do 
crossword  puzzles.  Usually we were nodding off to sleep by 8 p.m. or 
so.

SNORKELING  -  Our  favorite  beach  snorkeling  location is the north 
shore  of  Francis  Bay  -  from  the  dead  tree out to the point. If 
Francis  Bay  is  choppy  (due to the wind) try Mary Creek instead. At 
the  base  of  the driveway, turn right and walk about 100 yards, to a 
little  path  leading  down  to  Mary Creek. You can snorkel among the 
Mangrove  roots  there,  or  go  out to the coral reefs at Anna Point. 
Alternatively  continue  down  the  road  towards Annaberg ruins. Just 
past  the  tee  in the road you’ll find another path to Mary Creek. If 
you  continue  down the road, past the Annaberg ruins, it turns into a 
rocky  trail along the beach which leads to Waterlemon Cay. Snorkeling 
there  is supposed to be fantastic, but we didn’t find it worth the 45 
minute walk vs. the 5 minute walk to Francis Bay.

If  you  don’t  take  the Maho Bay excursion to Salt Pond (which is on 
the  south east side of St. John), you can catch the shuttle into Cruz 
Bay,  and the VI Tran bus to Salt Pond for $1. It runs every two hours 
or so (when its running).

Or  you  could  just ride Frett’s Maho Bay shuttle to any of the North 
Shore  beaches.  On  previous trips we found Jumbie Bay to have really 
good  snorkeling.  I’d avoid Hawksnest, Cinnamon, and Trunk Bays cause 
they get overrun with day-trippers off of the cruise ships.

BOATS  - As I said earlier, the money we saved on car rental, we spent 
on day sails.

The  best  day sail was with Captain Phil on the Wayward Sailor out of 
Cruz  Bay.  (Terry  had  recommended  this  as  the one trip to take). 
Although  Wayward Sailor will take six, Sandy and I were the only ones 
with  Captain  Phil the day we went. We sailed to two snorkeling spots 
near  the  St.  James  islands  between St. John and St. Thomas. Capt. 
Phil  actually went snorkeling with us and took us on a guided tour of 
the  reefs.  We’d be surface snorkeling when Capt. Phil would suddenly 
dive  down  20  feet  or  so and bring up something interesting he had 
spotted.  He  is very knowledgeable about sailing, snorkeling, and sea 
life  - it was like a personal tour with Jacque Cousteau. A daysail on 
Wayward  Sailor  costs  $85  per person, while some of the other boats 
are as low as $50, but we believe that it is worth it!

Our  other good day sail was with Capt. Lisa on the Pepper out of Maho 
Bay  Campground  Activities  Desk. Pepper is much smaller than Wayward 
Sailor  - about 23 ft - although it also carries 6 - so the ride was a 
little  more exciting (i.e. bouncier and leaninger). Pepper took us to 
Caneel  Bay and also to Whistling Cay off of Mary Point, both of which 
had  great  snorkeling.  Once  again  Terry had recommended Pepper. On 
previous  trips  we  had ridden on bigger power boats to Jost Van Dyke 
and  to Virgin Gorda, and we found the small sailboats to be much more 
exciting.

DINING

Our  favorite  place  to eat was the deck of Villa Serenity! The villa 
has  a  nice  gas  grill  on  the  deck which we used to grill steaks, 
shrimp,  and  scallops.  Other  nights we had steamed shrimp, with and 
without  pasta. The view of the sunset over St. Thomas was better than 
any  restaurant,  and  besides  we didn’t have to dress for dinner (at 
all!)

I  understand  there are really elegant restaurants in St. John, where 
you  can  easily spend $100 per person. We didn’t eat at any of these, 
but  didn’t  spend  more  than  $10 for a meal at any of the following 
places. (We preferred to spend our money on great day sails instead).

Now  Terry  also  happens  to  be the lunchtime cook at Miss Lucy’s, a 
locally  famous  restaurant  on  the  way  to Salt Pond, so we stopped 
there  on  our  way  back  from  Salt Pond. The Conch Chowder alone is 
worth  the  trip  to  Miss  Lucy’s.  Also  on  Saturday night Maho Bay 
Campground  ran  two  taxis  there  for  a Full Moon Party, where they 
roasted  two  entire  pigs,  and  had  a  live band for entertainment. 
Evidently  the  Full  Moon  Parties are a local St. John tradition, as 
most of the attendees seemed to be St. John residents.

Our  favorite place for breakfast is JJs Tex Mex, located at the ferry 
dock in Cruz Bay. They have great cheese omelets.

Sandy’s  favorite  place  was  Uncle  Joe’s  for barbecued ribs. Uncle 
Joe’s  is  so  well known that they don’t even have a sign out front - 
just  the  barbecue  grill.  They  are located right across the street 
from the Post Office in Cruz Bay.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

A  vacation  on St. John is not for everyone. Its a bit of a hassle to 
get  to,  and there’s no night life to speak of, but if you enjoy sun, 
snorkeling, and uncrowded beaches, then its for you.

Similarly,  staying  in a villa is not for everyone. If you like being 
waited  on, and being entertained then you’re probably better off on a 
cruise ship or staying at Caneel Bay.

If  its your first time to St. John, you’re probably better of renting 
Cloud  Nine  (www.cloudnine.com)  and renting a jeep, as we did on our 
first two times.

However,  if  you’re adventurous. If you look at receiving only PBS on 
TV  as  not  a bad thing. If you can look on the necessity to conserve 
cistern  water  as  an  opportunity to shower together (outdoors!), if 
you  enjoy  the  absolute  freedom  of  basking in the sun in complete 
privacy,  if  you  enjoy  walking  to an uncrowded beach, if you enjoy 
snorkeling,  then  send  Terry  Witham an e-mail and ask about renting 
Villa  Serenity.  We  plan to return, probably in the spring, once the 
winter rates are over, and when its too dry for the no-see-ums.

We  fly on frequent flyer miles, so its usually a hassle to get to St. 
John.  For example although we rented Villa Serenity Sunday to Sunday, 
we  had to fly down on Saturday and back on Tuesday. Saturday night we 
stayed  at The Inn at Tamarind Court in Cruz Bay. Its inexpensive ($84 
night),  and  is  sort  of like staying at a Motel 6 or a Super 8 - it 
provides  a  place  to  sleep.  Since we got to St. John about 8 p.m., 
that’s all we needed.

If you’d like to see any pictures of our trip they may be found at: 
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/dwdudic?d&.flabel=fld6&.src=ph
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/dwdudic?d&.flabel=fld11&.src=bc

REFERENCES:

Villa  Serenity  - Terry Witham - e-mail TerryRoberts@worldnet.att.net 
phone (340) 776-6342


Inn at Tamarind Court - (340) 776-6378

Maho Bay Campground - (340) 776-6226

Wayward Sailor -
 (340) 693-8555

Sadie Sea - (340) 776-6421

Weather - (340) 774-4786

TURKS AND CAICOS: CLUB MED TURKUOISE BY JONATHAN GAL-EDD

Trip 11/00

Just  returned from a week of diving with Club Med TurKuoise in Provo. 
This  report will compare Club Med Columbus Island to the one In Provo 
in  terms  of  diving and accommodations. Club Med overall provides an 
good  value  for  money, it is easy to get too( we drive from DC to NY 
and  catch  the charter).Club Med offers a good combination of Beach + 
Diving  +  Snorkeling  +  All  inclusive.  Club Med is ideal for mixed 
couples  (  One  dives...).  Both  club  Meds  are situated on a great 
beach.  We  enjoyed  our  stay  at  both locations, and will places go 
again.  Provo has several other resorts to choose from such as Allegro 
and Beaches.

Occupancy  rate  at  Club  Med Turkoise was 86% this Thanksgiving week 
while  Columbus  Island  was  half empty 3. Turkouis was 50% couples ( 
Canadians,  Europe  and  US)  and  50% singles (mostly New York ). The 
rooms  in  Turkuoise compare to college dorms, the food was so so, and 
the  shows were very lame ( were O.K with the Crazy Signs). Because of 
Rain,  and  outdoor  show was canceled and they repeated the same show 
twice  during  our stay. Columbus Island is definitely one class above 
Turkiose  as  far as rooms, food and service go. The big attraction of 
Turkoise  is  the  atmosphere. Turkuise was on Valium the week we were 
there  (  which is OK with us). During the week there was lot of staff 
turn  over  (  Chief the Village, Scuba director, shows director). The 
GO  were  practicing  for  the X-mas show every night from 11:00 PM to 
1:00, so their was less than usual GM GO interaction. 

The  bottom  line  both are good but Columbus Island provides a better 
value.

Now  to  the  diving,  diving  overall  was  good  ( not great). Provo 
provides  the  following  locations  of  diving  :  Wall  (130 feet)on 
Northwest   Point  (  Sites  called  the  Crack,  hole  in  the  wall, 
amphitheater,  Club Med One hour boat rids), Grace Bay ( 40-50 feet 10 
minute  boat  rides),  and  Pine Cay ( 30 minute boat ride) . The wall 
diving  is  very  similar  to  Columbus  Island ( less big stuff). The 
snorkeling  in  Provo is better than Columbus Island ( which has Algee 
on  the  shallow reefs). The visibility was not very good due to rain. 
Water  temperature  was  80,and I used a 3 MM suit (I was getting cold 
in  a  skin).  This was my second trip to T&C, the first I dived Grand 
Turk  & West Caicos which (IMHO) are better diving than Provo, but are 
also more remote and require more effort ( money..) getting to. 

There  was not an abundant of fish or big stuff. We saw: Many lobster, 
several  Caribbean Crabs two of them fighting for territory (should be 
called  Bush  &  Gore),  a  pair of Eagle rays (at Pine Cay), Grouper, 
puffer  fish  (at  Piranha Cove site), Sting Ray ( cathedral), several 
Eel,  and many Barracuda that live on Club Med Buoys. Most of the days 
we  were  the  only  dive  boat  to  be  seen  ( this is not Cayman Or 
Cozumel). Now to the best part of the week:

1.  White  house shore snorkel (near Beaches) - Guaranteed turtles who 
feed  on the grass ( saw 3 of them). This could be a great shore dive. 
On other snorkel trips saw several Nurse sharks.

2.  On  our way out diving in Northwest point, one day, we encountered 
a  whale  that performed for us, Jumping around the boat. Then we were 
surrounded  by  a pod of fifteen Dolphins, that swam and jumped around 
the dive boat for 40 minutes.

3.  On  pour  last  day  ( out gas day), we came back from the snorkel 
Trip  from  "White  House"  JOJO the Dolphin was waiting for us at the 
Pier.  We  snorkeled  with  him  for an hour. JOJO is very playful and 
likes  when you follow him and snorkel with him. After over an hour of 
swimming  I was exhausted and we went to get lunch. At 3:00 we were on 
the  afternoon  snorkel  trip  and  JOJO  showed  up  at  the  Pier, I 
abandoned  the snorkel trip and had JOJO to my self for an hour ( from 
3:30 - 4;30 PM). 

The  official  The  Caribbean  Travel  Roundup  World Wide Web site is 
http://caribtravelnews.com.  The  CTR  is  also  available  on America 
Online.  Contact:  Paul  Graveline, 9 Stirling St., Andover, MA 01810-
1408   USA   :Home   (Voice   or   Fax)   978-470-1971.   E-mail   via 
editor@caribtravelnews.com or CTREDITOR@aol.com

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