Caribbean Travel Roundup

Newsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor


Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 109
November 1, 2000

Last Update 29 October 2000

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ST. LUCIA: SOUFRIERE BY GRANT AND MARY MARGARET DAVIS

Trip 10/99

We  are  a  little  late in writing this report, but the islands don't 
really  change.  We  traveled  to St. Lucia last fall 10/99 for a long 
week.  Our  departure  point  was Dallas/Fort Worth, so all flights go 
through  Puerto Rico, then on to the islands by ATR. American Airlines 
no  longer  flies  into the southern airport, so we landed up north at 
the  George  F.  L.  Charles  Airport  (SLU  -  formerly  called Vigie 
Airport) in Castries.

If  you enjoy driving a sports car, you will love driving the roads in 
St.  Lucia;  or  any island for that matter - if not, take a cab. Yes, 
you  have  to  drive  on  the left, there are potholes, local drivers, 
chickens,  dogs,  children,  coconuts, when it rains, it really rains, 
washouts,  drainage  ditches ... to watch out for, but it's really fun 
and  a  blast  to  drive.  I would recommend a standard 4-wheel Suzuki 
Jeep  (an  automatic  won't  handle the hills) - about US $320 for the 
week,   plus   US  $17.45  per  day  for  the  CDW  insurance  (highly 
recommended  for  all  the  above  reasons).  You  will  also  need an 
international  driver's  license  -  any AAA store can set you up with 
this  (US  $20-25 good for a year versus the temporary island permit). 
Rather  then book it here, call the car rental desk at the airport. We 
used  Avis  -  (758)  452-2046); their rates are 10-20% below the best 
deal  you  can  get  through  the states - even with discount coupons. 
After  about 20 minutes to clear customs (very nice, no problems), the 
Avis attendant was expecting us, the jeep was ready, and we were off.

Due  to  our late arrival and not wanting to drive the roads at night, 
we  spent the first night at the Auberge Seraphine in Castries (US $85 
+  tax;  10%  government  tax on the rooms plus 8% service charge - so 
figure  tax  at  18%).  Highly  recommended  (also  where our American 
Airlines  crew  was  staying),  a very nice restaurant (excellent fish 
dinner  US  $65 + tax) with a patio bar, pool, nice rooms with A/C and 
located  within  easy  access  to  the  airport. If I was going to St. 
Lucia on business or arriving late, this is where I would stay again.

Castries  is  a  pain  to  drive  in/through,  a lot of traffic, roads 
weren't  really  planned  in  block European fashion, but once you get 
out  of town on the main road the signs are fair and it is pretty easy 
to  find  your  way. If you get lost (and you will), there is always a 
local  around  who  will  give  you  instructions or climb onboard for 
about  EC  $10-20  (US  $3-7).  The  few times I got lost it was worth 
every  penny  - we were after all on vacation and were trying to avoid 
hassles.  Once  when  it  was raining, I didn't realize we were on the 
same loop road until we passed the same cow twice!

The  larger  banks  are  in  Castries  for  exchanging your currency - 
better  rates  then  the  resorts  or  stores.  Also  there are decent 
supermarkets  if  you want to buy some essentials - cooler, beer, rum, 
ice,  food  ...  or  do  some  shopping  for  clothes or gifts. Always 
negotiate  prices  in EC for a better deal. The cruise ships unload in 
Castries, so the prices are higher even at the duty free stores.

St.  Lucia  is  only  30  miles  long,  but it takes 1.5 to 2 hours to 
travel  from  the  north  end  to  the south end; about 1.5 hours from 
Castries  to Soufriere with a few stops along the way. The small towns 
will  slow  you  down (stay on the main road however and you will pass 
right  through),  the  roads  are  twisty (when they say hairpin turn, 
walk  down  your hallway and turn around, this is what they mean), the 
elevation  changes  are  dramatic,  but the scenery is something else. 
You  will  pass  through  several banana plantations, various parts of 
the  Grand  Bois  Rain  forest,  always  having the Caribbean Ocean in 
view.

After  doing  a  little  research (where do all the day trips go?), we 
decided  to  stay  near Soufriere - it had the best snorkeling, a rain 
forest  nearby,  several nice resorts and restaurants, and a fair size 
town for shopping. We chose the Stonefield Estates (Jasmine Cottage) -
  7 days/6 nights for US $670 - a last night free special at that time 
and  they  were  not charging the government tax; they are now so plus 
18%.  Arranged  it  easily through Villas St. Lucia (800) 823-2002. We 
had  a  very  nice cottage (bedroom with double bed, bathroom, outdoor 
enclosed  shower,  living  room,  patio  with  hammock and a table and 
chairs)  with  an  incredible  view of the Piton and Caribbean Sea, it 
was  higher  up with a breeze so the bugs weren't a problem, a pool if 
we  choose  to  use it, and a restaurant/bar if we were not eating out 
or  in  our  room.  The  kitchen  was  nice - the markets were fair in 
selection.  If  you  need  a  relaxing  vacation  and don't want to be 
fussed  over,  stay  here.  If you need something, Claudia can arrange 
it.  If  you  are going to cook some of your own meals (or a cook will 
come  to  your cottage for US $10 per meal), my suggestion is that you 
bring  your  favorite  spices and sauce mixes, oven bags with premixed 
spices  for the fish and chicken, and some snacks if you want to go to 
the  trouble.  The  local seafood was caught that day, the markets had 
fresh  veggies  and fruit and the chickens were all free range (better 
flavor).

Having  the  jeep  gave us the freedom to go where and when we wanted. 
Actually,  I  think  we  would  have  spent  close  to  this amount on 
cabs/taxi's  - so I call it a wash when you add in the convenience. We 
also  took  our own snorkel gear (a lot of the snorkel trips will have 
the  masks  and  snorkel,  but not the fins???). Two places to snorkel 
are  at the Anse Chastenet (better reef and three Scuba boats; serious 
divers  stay  here)  or  the  Joulise Hilton (a beautiful resort; they 
imported  the sand for the beach and the bar near the beach charged me 
the  most  I  paid for a beer anywhere on the island). The road to the 
Anse  Chastenet is kept in disrepair to keep out visiting tourists (we 
gave  young  couples rides most of our trips in or out; a long walk to 
town).  The  Hummingbird  Beach  Resort  is the place to buy Batik and 
have  a  cold beer or cocktail (on the edge of Soufriere just near the 
base  of the road leading up to the Anse Chastenet). There are several 
great   little   restaurants  and  bars  in  Soufriere  (the  fun  was 
exploring;  there  is  one across from the market in Soufriere worth a 
look;  try Camilla's Restaurant & Bar, #7 Bridge St. - also has a B&B) 
-  shopping  is  so so. There are always the locals trying to give you 
instructions  or beg a few EC, but the minimum wage is only EC $30 per 
month  (that's  only  about US $10; the island has a some poverty); we 
just  basically  said  yes or no depending on if we wanted help or not 
and  dealt  with it. The locals are very friendly - several took us to 
some  of  their  local  bars  on a few occasions. We always take a few 
gifts  along on vacation to an island, inexpensive sunglasses, perfume 
samples,  small  toys  or blowup beach balls for the children - things 
they can't get and appreciate.

If  you  are  going  to  be driving around the island, eating at local 
restaurants,  visiting  the  rain forest, or spending an extended time 
on  the island, the CDC recommends a Hepatitis A immunization prior to 
visiting  St. Lucia. The island also has a tick - lyme disease problem 
in  the  interior  (take your bug spray) and you should probably stick 
with bottled beverages and well cooked food - all common sense stuff.

We  had  some  great  drinks  one evening at the bar at Ladera (a very 
nice  small  resort  with  a great views and rooms with plunge pools). 
Regretfully,  our dinner reservation at the Ladera was canceled due to 
the  impending  hurricane  -  the  locals  disappeared  and the island 
basically  shut  down  for  a  two days, we toured one of the Sandal's 
resorts  (very  nice  landscaping,  but I'd pass; it reminded me of an 
ant  farm  -  people everywhere), the Le Sport on the north end of the 
island  (this  is  a resort worth a return trip for the healthy; very, 
very  nice),  the  Anse  Chastenet  was  gorgeous;  cottages  go  up a 
terraced  hill (the place to snorkel or scuba as I said; also there is 
the  Cloud 9 house to rent at the very top with probably the best view 
of  the  Pitons  and  Soufriere  on the island), and several places in 
Marigot  Bay  (a  great  harbor if you have a sail boat). Soufriere is 
our  choice for the smoother water, scenery and variety. Several B&B's 
in  Soufriere if you were on a smaller budget and wanted to hangout on 
the island for a month (Chez Camille, #7 Bridge St.)

A  visit  to  the  rain  forest(s)  is  a must. Unlike several smaller 
islands  we  have  visited,  St.  Lucia  is a big island and there are 
several;  the  government  has  done a great job in setting them aside 
and  protecting  them.  Get  a local to take you up for the day for US 
$50  plus  EC  $20  tip;  take  your  binoculars. Saw seven indigenous 
parrots   (large  and  noisy),  orchids  (some  very  nice  pale  blue 
Oncidium's  and  miniature orange Phal's), bromeliads (not blooming in 
Oct.),  nice  tropical trees and plants, many types of butterflies and 
birds,  and  the  black  rock  waterfalls  (take  a  splash - cool and 
refreshing  after a long days hike). I did not have the opportunity to 
climb  the  Pitons.  The  rain  forest  and the Pitons in the same day 
would have been tough - next trip.

ST. MARTIN BY CAROL HILL

Trip 9/00

This  is our trip report from our September 16 to 24, 2000 trip to St. 
Martin.  This  was  our  third  trip to St. Martin this year, each one 
seeming  as  good  or  better  than  the  last. We had booked the trip 
around  March  this year and at that time, Eric's brother, Gerald, had 
told  us  that  he  wanted  to  come along. For that reason, we booked 
Green  Cay  Villas,  so  he  would have his own bedroom, as opposed to 
Club  O, which is probably where we would have gone, if we had been by 
ourselves.  We figured for him, we would "put up" with the great room, 
the  refrigerator  with ice and water through the door, the CD/TV/VCR, 
and  oh,  the  pool  and  jacuzzi.  G!!  Are  you feeling sorry for us 
yet?????????

We called our friend and travel agent, Jim Ruos (phone number 800-476-
5849  OR  see  his ad on www.travetalkonline.com) and requested one of 
the  high view villas, 18 or 20. Villas 18 and 20 are the only ones at 
Green  Cay  that have air conditioning in the great room. Villa 18 has 
a  jacuzzi,  but  not  20.  The  bedroom  which has the jacuzzi can be 
rented  out  separately  during  parts  of  the  year,  as a studio. I 
believe,  although  I  am not sure, that there is only the one studio, 
as we looked for other jacuzzis and did not see any.

Because  Jim is such a great travel agent and because it was September 
(and  apparently there were maybe 4 or 5 villas altogether rented out) 
Jim  was  able  to  get them to waive the normal extra 10% fee for the 
villa.  They  also  ran  a  special  after  we booked, so that helped. 
Numbers  18  and  20  are advertised as 10% extra because of the view, 
but  frankly,  I  didn't think that the view was that much better than 
the  lower  units. However, having the a/c in the great room was nice, 
especially  since there were four of us and we did spend a lot of time 
in  there.  (And  Eric  and I had on more clothes than we normally do, 
staying at Green Cay! G!!)

We  booked  what is called "the home package" at Green Cay. It's quite 
a  bit  cheaper  than their normal packages, but only available during 
certain  specific seasons, September being one of them. You do NOT get 
any  maid service, and most importantly for me, anyway, no replacement 
clean  towels  throughout  the  stay.  The price for replacement clean 
towels  was $4 for EACH clean bath sheet, $3 regular bath towel and $2 
for  small  towels. Ripoff? I think so. Here you have Green Cay, which 
I  think  is  THE  most deluxe hotel in the Orient Beach area, and you 
don't  even  get free clean towels?? Anyway, after my whining long and 
hard  with  Jim  Ruos,  and  pointing out how Eric is the owner of the 
BEST  BB  on  SXM, Jim was able to convince them to allow us to switch 
our  towels  for  free.  If you want to charge for clean towels, fine, 
OK,  give me a package that's $25 or $50 or whatever, for the week and 
I  will  pay that. Paying $4 for a bath sheet and trying to decide how 
many  times  I  want  to switch towels over the course of the week, in 
order to keep from spending another $15 or $20 just sucks.

Well,  if  anyone  is  paying attention, you noted that I said FOUR of 
us.  Well,  just  about 10 days before we left, AA ran a sale which we 
were  able  to take advantage of. A friend of Gerald's, Cindy, decided 
to  come  along  for  the  really  cheap price on air that we got, and 
bought  her ticket 10 days out. Gerald got a voucher for money back on 
AA  and Eric and I traded in our FF tickets and paid for tickets, then 
switched  our  FF  tickets to next June! The price was outstanding, at 
$384  pp,  including  tax,  Washington  Dulles to St. Martin. That was 
certainly the best price we have ever gotten.

September  16  came  and  we got up at a time which is obviously right 
out  of  the Twilight Zone, as no rational human being gets up at 3:30 
A.M.  It  was off in the car to Dulles for our 7:15 A.M. flight. Cindy 
did  not  have  a  passport, only a birth certificate, and the lady at 
the  counter  from AA was very ugly about it, but eventually ok'ed her 
paperwork.  She  told  Gerald to not allow Cindy out of Virginia again 
without  a  passport.  Not  a great beginning to her trip. BTW, NO ONE 
throughout  the  trip  other  than this _itch looked at her papers for 
more  than 10 seconds or said a cross word. The flight to San Juan was 
about  2/3  full, but we were both able to get 3 seats for two people, 
so  were  able  to stretch out. The plane from SJU to SXM was a PACKED 
757  and  Gerald,  Cindy  and  I were very close to the rear, but they 
opened  the  back doors. I took off at a fast clip for the immigration 
line.  I  had  forgotten to tell them to get a wiggle on to get toward 
the  front  of  the line, so they couldn't figure out why I was moving 
so  fast.  They  did  keep  up with me though, and looking at the huge 
line  of folks BEHIND us in the immigration line, they finally figured 
out  the  method  to my madness. Anyway, it was through immigration in 
good  time,  no  bags  checked, all carry-on's, so straight out to the 
Hertz  counter  to pick up our two automobiles. We had decided that we 
didn't  want either one of us to be "joined at the hip" and since cars 
are  so  reasonable, got two cars for the first 7 days of the trip. We 
were  in the cars in about 30 minutes from when we landed. I rode with 
Gerald  and  Cindy to give them directions. We stopped at Match on the 
way,  as  always. WOW! A word of warning for those traveling to SXM in 
the  near future--Match was a disaster area. They were putting all new 
coolers,  deli  counter, shelves, etc., in throughout the whole store. 
The  new  store  will  be  beautiful  when  it's done. However, in the 
meantime,  they  don't  have  half the stock they normally have, and I 
would  frankly  recommend  going elsewhere for a little bit until they 
have  their  construction done. They were giving 7.6 exchange rate, by 
the way.

All  right,  supplies  in  hand,  it  was time to be OFF to Green Cay! 
Having  stayed  there  before, we knew what to expect but were anxious 
to  get  there  and  to  show off the place to Gerald and Cindy, as we 
knew  they  would  be impressed. The lady from reception (who appeared 
to  be  new,  by  the  way) started telling us how we were going to be 
charged  for  towels, and of course I had to set her straight on that. 
She  proceeded to take us to the villa and show us TWO bedrooms and NO 
JACUZZI  and started to leave. Well, I instructed her that we paid for 
the  3  bedroom package, with the jacuzzi, and she looked confused and 
called  the front desk. Then she went to the front desk to get the key 
for  the  3rd  bedroom,  opened  it for us, and showed us that bedroom 
with the jacuzzi. NOW, she could leave! G!

BTW,  if  you  rent  villa 18 as less than a 3 bedroom villa, you will 
have  to specially request that 3rd bedroom, the one with the jacuzzi, 
as  they can rent it out separately. So if the jacuzzi is important to 
you,  during  the  times  of  the  year  that they rent out the studio 
separately,  you  probably would have to pay extra to get that bedroom 
or  wait  to  see  whether  they have somebody that wants to rent that 
bedroom,  then  if  not, then they would give it to you, I suppose. We 
will  have pictures of the studio up in a few days on the web page. Be 
advised  it  has  a  nice separate small balcony which is private from 
the  rest  of  the  villa,  but not necessarily private from the other 
villas  or  from  the  road. It has two chaise lounges and an umbrella 
and  the  jacuzzi,  but  has  two  twin  beds in the bedroom, which is 
really  stupid,  in  my  estimation. Eric and I were given our pick of 
rooms  and  I stewed for a long time over the twin beds situation, but 
we  ended  up taking that bedroom. It does have a very nice view, both 
directly out the sliding glass door and on the separate balcony.

After  the  tribulation  of  deciding  which  bedrooms  we  wanted, we 
listened  to  a  bit  of  music  on  the  CD  and  enjoyed some liquid 
libations,  looking  out  over  that fabulous view of Orient. Since we 
were  all  beat,  we  headed  over  to  Talk  of the Town for an early 
dinner,  each  of  us  ordering  "a  plate of food", either chicken or 
ribs,  at $8 each. It was great, although I should have asked for more 
plantains!  G!!  After  our  first meal in paradise, we headed home to 
the  hot  tub  and  to  Ma Dou Dou, provided by our friend Jim Ruos. I 
crashed  about 8:30, while the other 3, inexplicably, stayed up till 4 
A.M.,  drinking,  carousing,  arguing, whatever. Even though the sound 
insulation  to  the  bedrooms  is  very good, every once in a while, I 
could still hear the sounds of the music, etc., etc!

Sunday  dawned  rainy  and  cloudy.  We  had breakfast at the villa of 
quiches  and croissant form the bakery across from Match (which we had 
purchased  on  Saturday). I thought my quiche tasted fine. Eric wasn't 
so  pleased  with  his,  although I personally thought that might have 
had  something  to do with the quantity of Dou Dou he had consumed the 
night before! G!!

Since  Gerald  and Cindy had not been to SXM before and we wanted them 
to  feel  comfortable  driving  around  on their own, we decided to do 
somewhat  of  the  tourist  thing  on  Sunday and take them around the 
island.  The weather was BAD all day, raining basically all day, so it 
turned  out  to  be a good day to do that, since we couldn't have made 
much  headway  on  the  beach anyway. As it turned out, the other days 
were  beautiful,  with  only  a couple of scattered showers throughout 
the  day  and fairly light winds. We drove around all over the island, 
stopping  for  a  late  lunch  at  the  Greenhouse. Eric and I had the 
chicken  breast  sandwich  and Philly cheesesteak sandwich, along with 
their  excellent  home  fries.  Gerald  and  Cindy shared a burger and 
nachos.  We  found the Save A Lot (had managed to miss it in July) and 
would  compare  it  to  a BJ 's or Sam's Club here at home. The liquor 
prices  and  other  prices appeared good, although some items, like at 
BJ's,  you  have  to  buy  large  lots  (i.e, sodas, you have to buy a 
case).  They  are  open  till  8:30  P.M.  weekdays and till 3 P.M. on 
Sundays.  We  also  checked  out Cap Caraibes, the new hotel on Orient 
Beach,  close to L'Hoste. The hotel itself is very nice, and has great 
views  from  the  second and third floors. Right now, though, you have 
to  drive  through  a  construction  zone  to  get there. We parked at 
L'Hoste  and  walked  and  still  had a heck of a time finding it. The 
hotel  will  be  nice,  and has great views, but the trip to get there 
right  now  is somewhat daunting. We also drove down by the new cruise 
pier  and  were  shocked  at  the  appearance.  The actual pier may be 
finished,  but the area really looks like a construction zone. Looking 
at  that,  I  kind of understand why there are still no ships docking, 
as  it  doesn't  give  a good first impression of St. Martin. I didn't 
get  any  pictures  of the area, as it was raining pretty good when we 
were  there.  They  have  a  fence  which  is fairly far away from the 
actual pier, to prevent you from getting too close, at this point.

After  trips  through Grand Case, Marigot, Sandy Ground, Phillipsburg, 
and  Oyster  Pond (YIKES, the road over the hill is still VERY bad!!), 
we  headed  back to the villa. After the previous night's festivities, 
the  other  three  laid  down for a nap. Eric woke up around 7:30 P.M. 
and  we waited a while for the other two to appear and they didn't. We 
headed  out  to Portofino on our own. We had ravioli and chicken curry 
and  a  carafe  of  wine for $27. The chicken curry tasted fine, but I 
thought  the  choice  of  pieces  of  meat was odd, since it was three 
chicken  legs.  We  headed  to  the  Pelican and lost a little bit and 
headed  home.  Unfortunately,  soon  after  we  got  home,  as we were 
sitting  drinking  wine  and listening to music in the great room, the 
electric  went off. Eric determined it was the circuit breaker for our 
particular  unit,  and  found the box, which unfortunately was locked. 
Eric   walked   down  to  the  guard  shack,  which,  of  course,  was 
uninhabited.  We checked back later, and of course, still no guard, so 
we had to do with electric (and a/c) that night.

Monday  morning  there  were leftover showers around sunrise, so I was 
afraid  the  weather  would  be  bad again, but it cleared up. We woke 
somewhat  early  and  went  down and found one of the maintenance guys 
and  they  said they would come take care of the breaker situation. We 
headed  over to Grand Case to the little bakery right beside Portofino 
and  enjoyed  coffee  with  milk and croissant for breakfast. Since we 
hadn't  found  everything  we  wanted  on Saturday at Match, we headed 
over  to  US  Import/Export  to  try  to  get  a  few  items  for  the 
Traveltalkonline  party,  which  was to be this evening. I was looking 
for  seedless  grapes  and frozen cooked shrimp, but was unsuccessful. 
We probably should have gone on over to Food Center.

We  had been in St. Martin for over 24 hours and still had not been to 
the  beach, except our brief trip to check out Cap Caraibes, so it was 
time  to  go  to the beach!! We arrived on Orient around 10:30 A.M. on 
Monday  morning,  and  there  were  still  plenty  of empty chairs and 
umbrellas  to  be had. This would prove to be a theme for the week, as 
Orient  was  EMPTY  all week, except for Tuesday, when there were FOUR 
ships  in  port. The Perch was closed all week. I talked to one of the 
security  guards,  who  said  that it was closed because there were so 
few  folks  staying  at Club O. I'm sure that was partially because of 
leftover concerns from the Club O management flap.

This  day,  the  chair guys asked us for our initials. Eric said "EH", 
just  as  the  fellow  suggested "TT", based on the flag. I suspect he 
remembered  us  and  the flag from July and January! G!! Soon after we 
appeared,  Contessa  and  the  Sword  showed up, ragging on us for not 
showing  up  in  the  rain  on  Sunday! She said that she and a few of 
their  new  found  friends  spent the day on the beach on Sunday, even 
though  it  rained  all  day.  I guess she had a run-in with Andy from 
Baywatch,  although  I  don't  really understand why. Gerald and Cindy 
(not  really  being  c/o  type people) headed down to Baywatch and got 
chairs  down  there  for the day and we met them down there for lunch. 
Eric  and  I  shared  a  basket of onion rings and chicken parmigiana, 
which were great!

We  had  scheduled  the  traveltalkonline  party  for  Monday at 5 and 
headed  back  to  the  villa to set up. Gary Taylor and Maryann Karrer 
(still  in SXM, those bums!!!) and Contessa and the Sword attended. We 
had  the  best  time,  with  loads of food, fun, and liquid libations. 
Contessa,  great  guest  that she is, made some nice appetizers, along 
with  our  offerings and we had a great time. We introduced Gary to Ma 
DouDou  and  he  finally  figured out what all the shouting was about! 
Neil,  from  SSBB,  dissed  us.  We  found  out  later that one of his 
bartenders  had quit on him and he had to work. What a sorry excuse to 
miss a party! G!!

Well,  Monday  evening  was  supposed to be the BIG game, Redskins vs. 
Cowboys.  We  are  huge  Redskins  fans  and  thought (stupidly, as it 
turned  out)  that  the  Skins  would  whup  up  on Dallas. Contessa's 
husband  doesn't  drink, so he was volunteered by Contessa to drive us 
to  a  casino to watch the game. We ended up at Atlantis, watched part 
of  the  first  half of the Redskins getting their tails kicked by the 
hated Cowpokes and headed back home for the night.

BTW,  here's a primer on the subject of football as it relates to SXM: 
French  side  TV  is  a  joke.  Don't expect to see ANYTHING on the TV 
there.  The  channels that we had on our TV were 2 HBO's (one French), 
2  Cinemax  (one  French),  1  South American ESPN, CNN, and one South 
American  station.  Dutch  side  TV  is reportedly a little better and 
allegedly  has all three major networks and possibly U.S. ESPN. As far 
as  going  out  to  Casino's--Lightning  has a nice new round bar with 
lots  of TV's in their new sports book section; Atlantis has a section 
with  one  big  screen  TV  (which  gets  a BAD picture) and around 10 
smaller  TV's, with old wooden benches to sit on and no open bar there 
when  you  want  it; Pelican has one big screen TV, with several small 
tables,  in  front  of  the bar to the side of the casino; Dolphin has 
one  big  screen  TV  with  by far the most comfy seating, by the nice 
large  bar  at  the  end  of  the casino; Port de Plaisance and Casino 
Royale--sorry,  we  didn't  go  there  this  time. BTW, Rick's Cafe is 
closed  for  the  time being. Neil told us that he had lost his lease, 
but  Rick's web site says that they had problems with erosion of their 
foundation  and  were  having  to do extensive repairs and hoped to be 
open in time for the season.

Tuesday  morning  the  weather  dawned  sunny  and  beautiful.  We ate 
breakfast  at  the  villa  and  Eric and I stayed there and Gerald and 
Cindy  headed out to P' burg for some shopping. As it turned out, they 
picked  THE worst day, as there were four ships in port that day. They 
didn't  seem to mind the crowds though and enjoyed their day out. Eric 
and  I  cooked burgers on the grill for lunch. That evening we went to 
Grand  Case for dinner. We found probably 60% of the restaurants in GC 
closed   for  the  week.  Closed  for  the  whole  week  were  Auberge 
Gourmande,  Il  Nettuno,  Hevea,  Le  California, and La Marine, among 
others.  Fish  Pot  was closed until the Saturday before we left, when 
it  was  open.  Open  were  Portofino,  Chez Martine, Calamos, Bistrot 
Cariabe,  Talk  of  the Town and La Mamba, among others. This evening, 
we  decided  on  Chez  Martine.  We enjoyed 2 onion soups, lamb chops, 
salmon  in  foil,  pork  with  pineapple,  snapper  with  amaretto and 
almonds,  profiteroles,  creme  brulee  times  two,  bananas flambe, 3 
coffees  and  2 bottles of an Alsace wine. Total bill $150, not bad at 
all.  It  was  a  nice meal, although truthfully nothing like we would 
get  on Saturday night at Bistrot Cariabes. We headed to Dolphin, Eric 
winning back most of my losses for the night and headed home.

Gerald  is  a  diver and we had encouraged him before we left home, to 
go  diving in Saba, and Wednesday was the day that he picked for that. 
For  any questions regarding that trip, please send Gerald an email at 
ghill@info-res.com.  Gerald drove himself to the airport for the plane 
trip  over to the Saba. BTW, parking at Princess Juliana Airport is $1 
per  hour.  From  his descriptions, Gerald enjoyed the plane trip over 
and  back  more than the actual dive, as the waters were pretty murky. 
The  rest  of  us went to the beach. Cindy set up shop at Baywatch and 
Andy  and Cheryl took care of her, but wondered where her husband was. 
G!!  Eric  went  up  to  check  on  her  after a while and they sat at 
Pedro's  and  got  a  little (or should I say, a LOT!) sloshed. We had 
always  planned  on  eating  at  the  villa  Wednesday night, since we 
weren't  sure  how  tired  Gerald  was  going  to be from the dive. We 
needed  some red wine for dinner and went to L'Orientique to get it. I 
could  tell  the lady there thought that Eric probably didn't NEED any 
more  wine.  Thankfully,  we made it back to the villa in three pieces 
and  Eric and Cindy sobered up some. We cooked steaks on the grill for 
dinner  and  then headed out to the casino. Lightning has $2 blackjack 
and  Caribbean  stud,  which is nice, BUT the place was still empty. I 
gave  the pit bosses hell, though, as they had $1 per chip roulette. I 
told  them that, since they were running cheap blackjack and caribbean 
stud,  they needed to run $.50 or $.25 roulette. The pit bosses seemed 
to  agree  but of course said it wasn't up to them. Actually, we had a 
great  time,  especially  at  craps.  Cindy  commented that she didn't 
really  know  how  it worked. No one was playing craps, so Eric walked 
up  and  plunked  down some money. As things go sometimes in craps, in 
15  minutes  of  furious  action, we made back three times what we had 
lost  in two hours of previous action. Time to go to home to bed, even 
though  the  pit  bosses  hated  to see us leave. G!! To celebrate, we 
went  home and celebrated with MaDouDou in the hot tub till 1 or so in 
the morning.

Thursday  morning  none  of  us was feeling particularly well from the 
previous  night's  festivities.  BUT, we had made arrangements to meet 
the  folks  from  LaVista this morning and have breakfast between 8:30 
and  9:00.  I  woke  up  at 8:00 and poked Eric and told him the time. 
Man,  the  look  he  gave  me!!  (Like,  and  I give a _uck that it is 
8:00!?!?!?)  Thankfully,  he  eventually remembered why he was getting 
up  this  morning.  We took our showers and got ourselves together and 
had  a  wonderful  breakfast  at  LaVista.  For those that don't know, 
LaVista  is  a  small  resort on the Dutch side, right by the Pelican, 
that  does  timeshare  and  regular weekly rentals. They have a lovely 
view  from the pool and restaurant down to the water and we thoroughly 
enjoyed  a  lovely  breakfast and a nice chat with Andrea (the owner's 
daughter  and  a  thoroughly  delightful  lady)  and  Debbie  (who  is 
designing their web site).

We  finally  got  to  Orient beach around 1 P.M. and spent some lovely 
hours  on  the beach in the afternoon. We had decided we wanted to get 
to  Sunset Beach Bar for sunset that day, so headed out. For the first 
time  we  remember  in  SXM,  we  got  caught behind the drawbridge at 
Simpson  Bay,  and  we  missed  the 747 taking off by five minutes. We 
took  a  picture  of Air France passing over as we were sitting at the 
bridge!  Since we hadn't had any lunch, we each split a steak sandwich 
and  enjoyed  some  drinks, on Neil. Thanks, guy!! After a while, Neil 
came  out from behind the bar and spent quite a while talking with us. 
For  dinner,  we weren't interested in anything big, so split a couple 
of  pizzas  at  Good  Fellows,  plus  some  drinks.  We headed back to 
Lightning,  hoping  to  repeat the previous evening's performance, but 
there  is  some  truth to the statement that lightning does not strike 
twice in the same place, so we headed home slightly poorer.

Friday  morning Eric, Gerald and Cindy decided to do the tourist thing 
and  headed out to Pik Paradis to check it out. I headed to the beach. 
Looking  at  the pictures, it looked like I got the better part of the 
deal,  as I would have been stroking out from the road! Be advised, if 
you  decide  to  go  to  Pik  Paradis,  that  there  have been several 
credible  reports  of  robberies  occurring at the top. After PP, they 
headed  to the Ma DouDou "factory" and rousted the owner from painting 
duties,  probably  NOT related to the rum product. They arrived on the 
beach  around  11:30  and  we  spent the rest of the day there, before 
heading  out early in a quest to actually see the 747 land at Princess 
Juliana.  We  arrived  in  sufficient  time today to see the Air Fence 
land.  The  fence was still standing as it landed. As we were watching 
it  land,  we  talked with a group of folks from South Africa who were 
waiting  to  board  the  plane.  SXM to Charles De Gaulle to Capetown, 
South  Africa.  A  long  day, I suspect. We saw it take off, including 
watching  one  fellow standing on the road, holding on to the fence to 
keep  from  getting blown away! G!! Friday nights, Neil apparently has 
free  Domino's  Pizza  most  of  the time, in advance of a band, which 
plays  from  6:30  to 9:30. We weren't particularly impressed with the 
band,  so  listened  for a little bit, then headed home. We had steaks 
on  the  grill  for  dinner,  more  DouDou,  then  bed.  A  successful 
night...........

Saturday  morning  we  wanted to go out to breakfast and tried Bikini, 
which  was not open, so we headed down to Baywatch, which was open. It 
was  VERY  windy  this  morning.  We initially tried to sit out by the 
water  at  Baywatch  and  after  the  umbrella blew over on us for the 
second  time,  we  finally  figured  out  it  was too windy to sit out 
there,  so  we  sat  back  by the kitchen. We had a great breakfast of 
omelettes,  etc,  and  coffee.  Eric and Gerald went and turned in the 
second  car  at Hertz, and Cindy and I began the awful task of packing 
to  come  home.  Once we got to the beach, Gerald and Cindy decided to 
spend  the  day on the Club Orient end of the beach, but did not fully 
participate.  However,  that was fine, as though Contessa and the rest 
of  the  crowd gave them hell, it was all in good fun. They decided to 
do  the  parasailing  thing,  and  the Jetskiing thing and had a great 
time.  Eric  took  some  pictures and sat at Baywatch and watched. Mid 
afternoon,  we  had  some  chicken fingers at Baywatch, not wanting to 
ruin our appetite for dinner at Bistrot Caraibes!

Before  we  left  home, we had arranged to meet with Bob! and Charlene 
for  dinner  in Grand Case on Saturday, which was the day they arrived 
from  California.  We had decided to meet in front of Bistrot Caraibes 
at  6:30.  We  drove  down  the  street  to the corner and saw someone 
standing  in front of Bistrot and Eric yelled out the window "Bob!??", 
just  like  a  local  and sat in the middle of the street for a couple 
minutes,  talking to him and telling him we would park and be there in 
a  couple minutes. Contessa and the Sword and two other couples we had 
met  on  the beach decided to come along for the party and they showed 
up  a few minutes later. We ended up with two tables for six alongside 
each  other  and  the  party was ON! (I kind of feel sorry for anybody 
else  that was in the restaurant that night, as it was somewhat noisy! 
G!!)  We had an absolutely fabulous dinner, with great presentation of 
every  course,  pretty  enough  for a picture. On our table of six, we 
had  baked Camembert & herb cheese baked on french bread, french onion 
soup,  lobster  bisque,  endive  salad, scallops over mashed potatoes, 
salmon  with  mushroom  sauce, tuna, red snapper, lobster, beef, apple 
tart,  chocolate  cake,  sherbert  with raspberry sauce, creme brulee, 
coffee,  water,  and  3  bottles of Gerwurteminer, $320. An absolutely 
wonderful   meal,   all   selections  absolutely  wonderful,  FABULOUS 
presentation,  a  wonderful  meal  with great, new-found friends. What 
more could one ask for?

Sunday  morning  we  had  decided  to  just  stay  at the villa in the 
morning,  which  ended up being a good idea, as the weather turned out 
a  little  problematical.  There were scattered showers throughout the 
morning.  We  had  an  early lunch of burgers on the grill and cleared 
out  the  refrigerator of the remaining items, and did the last of the 
packing.  Eric  checked  out with the front desk and dropped us at the 
airport,  arriving  there  at 1 P.M, for our 2:30 P.M. flight. We were 
shocked  to see NO line whatsoever at the American counter. As soon as 
Eric  got  back  from turning the car in, we checked in, still with no 
line,  then  went  upstairs to the bar to get some liquid refreshments 
to  get  us  home.  I  found  the  St. Martin 2001 calender I had been 
wanting  at  the  airport shops. Our flight left on time, only about ½ 
full,  to Miami, then on to Dulles from there. Both flights were fine, 
except for the fact that we were going home! G!!

General  stuff  I  missed--  GREEN  CAY--Home  package--In the regular 
package,  they  provide  a  welcome  package  of beer, soda, eggs, OJ, 
Milk,  bread,  etc.  In  the  home package, they provided only coffee, 
sugar  packets,  salt  &  pepper,  dish  soap and a couple of napkins. 
There  were  no  paper  towels and no dishwasher soap. Provided in the 
bathrooms  was  a welcome package of bath and shower gel (NO shampoo), 
soap,  body  lotion,  shower  cap,  woolite,  toothpaste.  In the most 
expensive   package  at  Green  Cay,  they  are  supposed  to  provide 
umbrellas  and  chair  pads  for the chaise lounges, BUT the umbrellas 
and  chaise  lounge pads were on our deck when we arrived and appeared 
to  be  on  all  the  decks of the other villas, so I suspect they are 
providing  them  for  all the villas. The chair pads were made of some 
miracle  fiber,  as  they  seemed  to dry out within minutes of a rain 
shower.  The  pool  guys  came  maybe  2 or 3 times during the week to 
clean  the  pool. For the week, I think there were maybe 4 or 5 villas 
that  were  being  occupied,  although  numbers  16,  18  and  20 were 
occupied  the  whole  week  we  were  there.  Trash was supposed to be 
picked  up  at  the  villa, if you left it on the front porch. One day 
that  we left it on the front porch, it disappeared promptly. The next 
time,  it stayed there for a couple of days and a cat/dog/whatever got 
into it.

I'm  not  sure that I would want to rent number 18 if someone else has 
rented  the studio. If someone else has rented the studio, there is no 
effective  place  that  you  can  grill. Also, the only tables are the 
ones  that  are  out front toward the water, which is fine, so long as 
it's  not raining. If it's raining or windy, it's not real comfortable 
to sit there.

The  driveways  for  16,  18 and 20 are kind of a _itch. Not something 
that  one  feels real comfortable navigating after a couple bottles of 
wine.  In  that  respect,  the  driveways  on  the villas on the lower 
levels are a lot more forgiving.

There  is  internet  access  and a workout room available now at Green 
Cay,  right  across from the front desk. We visited neither during our 
stay. ;)

BAYWATCH--We  talked to Andy a couple of times during the week. He has 
big  plans  for the future, particularly for c/o folks. He is planning 
on  running specials for Club O folks for breakfast. More exciting, he 
is  planning  on  trying to bring in a band in the evenings and have a 
c/o  party  at  least  one  evening  during  the  week during the high 
season,  and inviting everyone from Club O down. He plans on enforcing 
Club  O  type  rules--no cameras, etc. That will be a welcome addition 
to plans for the evening from Club O during the season.

Please       visit      our      new      bulletin      board,      at 
http://www.traveltalkonline.com   All  in  all,  a great trip. Wish we 
were going back tomorrow!!

The  official  The  Caribbean  Travel  Roundup  World Wide Web site is 
http://caribtravelnews.com.  The  CTR  is  also  available  on America 
Online.  Contact:  Paul  Graveline, 9 Stirling St., Andover, MA 01810-
1408   USA   :Home   (Voice   or   Fax)   978-470-1971.   E-mail   via 
editor@caribtravelnews.com or CTREDITOR@aol.com

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