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Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 58
October 1 1995
CURACAO FROM THE CURACAO TOURIST BOARD PROVIDED BY MARY BRENNAN - Part 2
PLACES TO SEE IN CURACAO
WILLEMSTAD'S WONDERFUL WATERFORT ARCHES: DOORWAYS TO CURACAO'S COLORFUL HISTORY
A quarter-mile long, thirty feet high, built of sturdy, barrel-vaulted 17th Century stone and set against the sea, the Waterfort Arches in picturesque Willemstad, capital of the Dutch Caribbean island of Curacao, stand out both for their long and varied history, and for the lively role they play today.
For the visitors from cruise ships or nearby hotels who stroll along the shaded old flagstones on the landward side, past a succession of half-moon-shaped entryways, Waterfort is a wonderful resource: it's a chance to explore boutiques, have film developed fast, cash a traveler's cheque, get information from the Tourist Office, buy a cold and fruit-flavored Lovers Ice Cream, or walk through to a breezy terrace on the sea for a local Amstel beer and a choice of restaurants with Italian, Indonesian, Middle Eastern or Caribbean fare. And at night, when gentle lights illuminate the grand buildings and cobbled walkways of the Governor's Palace, State buildings and seaside esplanade next door, the Waterfort Arches become a very romantic place.
To those with an eye for the Caribbean's colorful history, though, there's a world of stories behind this attractive and convenient gathering place -- and it's typical of how Curacao uses the past to enhance its present, creating delight for its visitors and business for its own people.
For two hundred years starting in the late 1600s the small and picturesque island off the north coast of Venezuela was a top trading port, a key outpost of Holland in the New World, and a major target in the constant wars European nations fought on this side of the Atlantic. Curacao's huge natural harbor had to be continually defended -- and those forts ringing the city remain today, turned to the peaceful uses of eating well, enjoying splendid views, and shopping for today's booty.
The Waterfort Arches are a case in point. Built originally as a series of storage chambers for munitions, food and medical supplies, with a fortified roof that ran toward the entrance of Santa Anna Bay, the thick-walled chambers were still in service as late as World War II, when Allied servicemen were billeted there to watch for Nazi submarines in the Caribbean.
A decade ago Willemstad's organization of downtown merchants saw a different and imaginative use for the abandoned Arches. They found the funds to restore the historic structure and add modern conveniences, then leased them to businesses wanting to be in the middle of the historic city, and today, they are part of a highly successful result.
The Arches have become very popular with visitors to Curacao's capital, Willemstad. The city, with its gabled Dutch buildings in a palette of pastel colors, is one of the very few Caribbean towns that's a major attraction in itself. Cruise ships dock right on the harbor; the historic and walkable downtown area is compact, completely safe, and well endowed with big-name shopping. There are fine restaurants, cafes on shady plazas, and a wealth of photogenic sights to see.
In Willemstad, on the Santa Ana Bay, shutterbugs shouldn't miss the colorful, canopied schooners from Venezuela full of equally colorful produce docked close together to form a "floating market". A short walk away (across a unique pedestrian pontoon bridge that moves to admit big ships) are small, lively casinos and cul de sacs full of not-yet-restored mansions that look like a very old European town.
In the middle of it all, the Waterfort Arches sum up Willemstad and give it a focal point: a place to set out from, a place to meet after exploring Curacao, and simply, a whole series of eighteen quite different small places to enjoy.
CURACAO OFFERS "DEER WATCHING" SESSIONS FOR RARE LOCAL SPECIES
Get out your binoculars and get ready! Visitors to the Caribbean island of Curacao have a unique opportunity to view the small, white-tail Curacao deer, a species indigenous to the island. The deer watching program is held at Christoffel National Park, a 4,500-acre nature reserve located on the northwestern part of the Dutch Caribbean island.
There are between 150-200 deer in Curacao; approximately 70% of them live in Christoffel. Historians trace the deer to Indians that brought them from South American coastal areas, particularly Columbia and Venezuela, in the 14th and 15th centuries. Since 1926, the deer has been a protected animal on Curacao.
Deer watching is offered year-round and sessions are held in the afternoon, from 4 to 6:30 p.m. Guides lead small groups (maximum of eight people) on a ten-minute walk to the observation tower for a presentation and to wait for the deer. The Park requires reservations in advance for deer watching.
Once on Curacao, those interested can call Rene Serverens at Christoffel National Park at 640363. Cost is approximately $9.00 for adults and $5.00 for children under 15. Christoffel National Park is open from Monday to Saturday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. and on Sunday from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. The park was opened to the public in 1978 and consists of three former plantations acquired by the government.
Christoffel is located on the island's highest point and offers walking and nature trails, unusual flora and fauna, Indian caves and wildlife. There is also a museum on the park grounds featuring an exhibit on the geology of Curacao.
Just 38 miles off the coast of Venezuela, Curacao offers all the best of the Caribbean with a dynamic European flair. The colorful Dutch architecture of the capital city, Willemstad, is one of the Caribbean's most photographed assets, but there is much more. Families flock to the Sea Aquarium at the Curacao National Underwater Park, where you can board an unusual "semi-submersible" submarine for an up-close view of the native sea life or swim with sharks and stingrays in complete safety. Divers explore the Caribbean's clearest water. On land, visitors shop in the many duty-free stores in quaint Willemstad, play tennis, go horseback riding in the "cunucu" (countryside), or simply relax on one of the island's 38 inviting beaches.
THE HATO CAVES DRAW VISITORS AND SPARK THE IMAGINATION
Set into the bluffs on the rugged north coast of the Caribbean island of Curacao is a cavern where, according to the local guides, visitors can see a sleeping giant; a pirate; a huge open-mouthed iguana and several other magical creatures... if they look hard enough.
Curacao's Hato Caves, which are quickly becoming one of the Dutch Caribbean island's most popular attractions, have undergone extensive renovations to make them more "visitor friendly". Now there is better lighting, gravel-lined paths, and, most important, improved ventilation (in the caves, the trade winds that keep this island cool are reduced to a whisper, and the new source of fresh air was crucial to Hato's comeback).
These are "living caves", which means that the stalactites (the ones that hang from the ceiling) and stalagmites (inching up from the floor) are still being formed, a drop at a time. Tiny beads of water leach out of the limestone ceiling, leaving behind a microscopic deposit of calcium carbonate before splashing to the ground, where they add another miniscule particle to the growing pile below. Eventually, if left undisturbed, the two piles join, forming a pillar that gets thicker and thicker, and, over the centuries, takes on a distinctive shape.
In order to protect the still-forming caves, all tours are guided. While there is much of interest to see and learn (the caves were once a hiding place for runaway slaves and were even used for ancient, religious ceremonies), many visitors seem to most enjoy hearing the stories behind some of the more interesting limestone formations.
As they walk the long, gently-sloping trails that lead through the caves' different chambers and past still pools and even a waterfall, the multi-lingual guides point out formations, many half-hidden by shadows, that take on recognizable human and animal form. The Giant from Jack In The Beanstalk, a sea tortoise, an iguana head and, yes, even the Virgin Mary can be seen (with the help of a little imagination). Indirect lighting is discreetly tucked into the walls and ceilings, producing a pleasantly eerie ambiance, as the guides encourage visitors to tilt their heads or close an eye for optimum effect.
Whether it is a trick of the light, clever storytelling, or something less tangible that creates the illusion, those who have met the "inhabitants" of the Hato Caves will not soon forgot the experience.
The Caves are open Tuesday through Sunday, and multi-lingual tours are given on the hour from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is $4.50 for adults, $2.75 for children under 12.
BVI: DRAKES-ANCHORAGE BY WAYNE HANSON
I must preface this recap with the fact that I live on an island, Nantucket, whose primary industry is tourism, and the summer is it's high season. I chose the BVI's as a result of lurking in travel forums and articles from "Island Escapes" in Islands magazine. (Incidentally, one such article described Nantucket in the summer as "a human zoo". Knowing this to be true, I accepted their articles as honest, rather than promotional hype, and believed all that they had written about Virgin Gorda. I was not disappointed.)
The summer is their off season and it was my choice to try to avoid tourists as much as possible. Also, my other half, Sally, is a teacher, so summer is the best time for us to travel.
Ideally, we wanted no tourists around us nor did we want to be treated as tourists. We saw ourselves as benign guests who wanted to spend a little time learning about the BVI's and the Caribbean, and a lot of time in almost total privacy. We zeroed in on Drake's Anchorage from trip reports and had our best vacation ever.
Also, in writing this report, I've assumed that the reader has already read the other fine reports about Drake's in these libraries and is somewhat familiar with Drake's and the BVI's.
We left Hartford, CT, about 7:00AM, on the 7th, for Tortola, via Puerto Rico. Very little time between planes. Arrived Beef Island airport around 1:00 and had to wait until 3:00 for the North Sound Express. The North Sound boat brought us to Leverick Bay where Drake's boat was waiting for us. Arrived at Drake's about 4:00. There were absolutely no problems with our connections.
We were met at Drake's wharf by Lyra with a snack and cool drinks. Sadly for Drake's but great joy for us, we found out that we were sharing this week with only one other couple. I felt that I must be doing something right!
Couldn't wait to get out of our travel clothes and into the Caribbean. Went off to Rocky Beach for an hour and realized that we should have kept something on our feet. The water was wonderful and we also realized that we needed to get snorkeling equipment as soon as possible.
Soon it was time to get ready for dinner. The food was everything we had been told to expect. We forgot that it gets dark much earlier in the southern latitudes, so sleep came easily and quickly soon after dinner.
The next day we picked up snorkeling equipment and a dingy. Spent the morning at Long beach and the afternoon at Honeymoon beach, finishing off at Rocky beach on the way home. Met my first Barracuda there. About 2' long and curious. He must have found me boring because he disappeared shortly.
Guess where we spent the next day, Sunday? Right! Hiding from the sun! I live on the ocean and should know better. My goal was to soak in the Caribbean until I looked like a prune. Well, I achieved that on the first day and got quite crispy as well.
The previous Saturday night, I had asked Lyra about the possibility of renting a power boat for a couple of days. She said she would look into it. On Monday she had a 21' outboard for us. This was perfect because it was almost identical to my own. We were able to explore the waters around Virgin Gorda - including the Baths, the Dogs, Statia reef, Prickly Pear, Eustatia and Necker Islands, Spanish Town and Savanna beach. (Incidentally, the boat cost $225 per day. A 17' outboard rental on Nantucket costs $325 per day.)
Albert Wheatley, the manager, was busy when we first arrived so we met him, for the first time, the first night we left the rented boat at his dock. The timing was perfect. He was willing to share all kinds of local knowledge about the waters and boating around the BVI.
Sally had first wanted to rent a bare boat for our trip to the BVI. I had never been to the Caribbean so my choice was to stay on land, rent a small boat, talk with the "experts", see the water and see how it compares to Nantucket's waters. I learned that it is infinitely clearer and a lot easier than what I'm used to. Now I'm ready to rent a bare boat. But, alas, Sally has an idea for the next vacation. We're going back to Drake's.
Albert and his staff were so damn professional and just plain good that they hooked us. Quite honestly I'm reluctant to share my feelings about this place for fear that more people will find out about it.
Would you believe that we found a nice, private beach on Prickly Pear, only to be invaded by a dingy with four people, whose herding instincts were well developed . . . they decided to anchor right next to us. After Sally's attempts to scare them off with horror stories about Barracuda, jelly fish and sharks failed, we found out that one couples' daughter, who is on summer vacation from college, has been selling me gasoline every week at my home. Small world!
When we got back to Drake's, we walked past a young couple who had come over for the day to explore. They both had Nantucket "T" shirts on. Maybe escape is impossible.
Speaking of small worlds, Sally's dental hygienist has an uncle in the BVI's. She asked if we would look him up and say "Hi". He turned out to be Bert Kilbride. What an interesting afternoon that turned out to be. Besides his legendary activities under water, (I have read that the Queen of England has given him the honorary title of "Keeper of the Wrecks"), he was the original owner and builder of Drake's Anchorage.
We only had the boat for a couple of days so we made the best of it. On Wednesday some serious rest and relaxation was required so, Long beach in the morning and the hammocks in the afternoon. Sally finished two books down there. I completed not one. Kept falling asleep in the hammocks.
Having admitted that, I have to say that the other couple, who are 15 years younger, referred to us as the "kids", since we seemed to be much more active. Ha! I'll never admit the truth to them.
Speaking of hammocks, Sally has always accused me of snoring loudly and I've always told her that she dreams this. Well, our housekeeper, Lydia, tells Sally that she could hear me snoring from quite a long distance away. I guess it was a good thing that there were not too many guests. Off to the sleep therapist!
Speaking of Lydia, Sally's grandmother always had a saying that when it rained with the sun shining, "the devil's beating his wife". I had never heard that expression and nobody I know had heard it. One morning we saw Lydia during a brief shower. Guess what she said?
I left Sally in the hammock that afternoon and Albert taught me how to fish off the rocks on the west side of Mosquito Island. Generally I think of fishing as, maybe I'll get lucky and catch something, maybe not. Albert, on the other hand, said we are not going fishing, we are going "catching". He was right.
We let most of the fish go back to the sea but Albert had me save a couple, which the chef fixed for our dinner that night. I have never seen fish so colorful and beautiful. When they are first out of the water, the colors seemed more vivid than when you're snorkeling.
That evening our new friends decided to try to catch something off Drake's wharf. Basil provided some bait and the lines went out in relaxed anticipation. I had had such a relaxing day that I decided it should be finished with some nice Brandy. After my third trip back to the bar, Virgie told me that I don't have to wait for her to serve me if she's off taking care of some of the frequent boaters and island hoppers who come over for dinner. Just help myself and leave a note.
Finally our friends patience was rewarded. He hooked a small (2') shark which broke the line before we could land it.
Shortly after this incident several of the diners came for their dinghies to return to their boats and Sally couldn't help doing her part to try to reserve this paradise for ourselves. She kept warning these people about the very angry shark we just released and that the water is loaded with them. Didn't do any good though. They just smiled and made it clear that they wouldn't be scared off.
Thursday morning we awoke with absolutely no wind. This is one of the downsides to the summers in the BVI. Albert says about five days a year the wind will stop. The only other bummer was that, after our introduction to Honeymoon Beach, every other day the water there was filled with hundreds of jellyfish. The summer is their season. Next year we're going a couple of weeks earlier.
The currents off Long beach were such that the jellyfish weren't there so we soaked in the water that morning. At lunch time I discovered that the drink that would stay coldest the longest was a frozen Marguarita. Unfortunately, after 50+ years of living, certain areas of my brain just refuse to develop and I didn't use much restraint or common sense. We were heading over to Saba Rock for a party that evening with our new friends so I had to loose that afternoon to a nap.
Basil brought us over after dinner and when he was done ferrying the diners back and forth to Drake's, he came back and joined the fun.
Sally had had a vacation several years ago during which she attended a place like this and the band had a very limited repertoire. She mentioned to all of us that if this band played "Yellow Bird", she would jump in the water. Well, Basil not only joined the fun, he joined the band and had them play "Yellow Bird". Did Sally jump? No, she weasled out, so we have to go back so that she can redeem herself.
Friday morning. We leave today. Where has the week gone? Sally, a diver, never got a chance to dive. I wanted to try a resort course in diving and never had the time. We never took the time to sail the 19' day sailors or book a sail to Anegada. Those are the priorities for next year.
We were as busy as we wanted to be. Does this mean that we simply have to spend more time there? Is it good to leave something for the next time? I'll let you know after the next trip.
When we arrived back on Tortola we had a couple of hours to kill so I arranged a quick taxi tour starting with a trip to "Skyworld" for lunch. I never thought to ask Sally if she was bothered by heights when I arranged this. About half way up I turned from my co-pilot seat to look at her and thought, oh, oh, I'm going to pay for this. Fear does not make for a happy camper.
Every time I saw a car coming at us I had the urge to pull over to the right so I am glad that I was not driving. Our driver was Chinko Wheatley, (I think a relative of Albert's). Chinko and I had great fun telling Sally how we were going to get her back down the mountain. One of the waitresses at "Skyworld" suggested that she could roll down after a few of their specialty rum drinks. Sally ended up telling Chinko that if he looked in the rear view mirror and didn't see her, don't panic. She'd be on the floor.
Early on in our tour we picked up an elderly gentlemen who was celebrating his 80th birthday. It turned out he was Chinko's father and a former prime minister of the BVI. It was an extremely enjoyable and informative tour. Alas, the time to get on the plane back to Hartford came all too soon. When we arrived in Hartford, it was 97 degrees, no wind and highly humid. We can't wait to get back to Drake's.
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC: EDEN BAY BY REPORT DAVID GROSS
My Sister has just arrived home in Colorado from "Eden Bay". She said there was no hurricane damage at all, however, the ocean was very rough. The grounds are beautiful, the jacuzzis are now heated and working great, she especially liked the oceanside pool. The maid service is good, the food was excellent, and the boutique seemed to be very well stocked.
Cobian (manager) was outgoing, friendly, and very helpful to her. She said the employees and the locals are some of the most enjoyable people she has ever met.
There were twelve guests remaining when she left the Dominican Republic September 19, but there were more guest expected to arrive in the near future.
1CI$ = 1.25$US All prices quoted are in $CI unless stated otherwise.
We visited Grand Cayman in mid-August. The weather was great. It was hot but not as hot as the east coast of the US. The beach always had a breeze. We are water lovers and occasional snorkelers. We have already visited Aruba, St. Thomas, Puerto Rico, Freeport, Paradise Island, Cozumel, Jamaica and Cancun. This is the island we preferred.
General Info before going.
We suggest anyone visiting the Cayman's buy some snorkeling gear before going. To rent on the beach costs about $CI 11 per day. As you can snorkel directly from the hotels, it is interesting to have your own equipment.
Amateurs would probably want to buy a cheap mask but make sure it is not plastic, It should be rubber. To check if a cheap mask will work, put it on your face without using the head strap, inhale through your nose and look down. The mask should hold without the help of the mask strap.
On the Plane.
Make sure you put a bathing suit and suntan cream in your carry on bag. That way if your room is not ready (or worse still if your luggage is delayed), you can still go on the beach right away.
Hotel Holiday Inn
The hotel itself is plain but so are most on the island. The rooms are a good size and quite nice. The beach is beautiful, white soft sand. Most people we met said it was the nicest beach on 7 mile beach. The water is very clear and warm. There are plenty of lounge chairs and it is possible to find shade. The guest population was very mixed and international. There were singles, couples, and families. It was mainly Americans. We heard British English, Italian, Spanish, German and French
The beach towels do not have to be turned in at night. That is a great feature. We just turned our towels in whenever we wanted to get clean ones. The pool was nice but there were never many people around or in the pool. The beach attracted everyone.
Buffet breakfast is $CI 8 (Breakfast is inside). Lunch on the beach is $CI 5 (Hamburger, Fries and soda) Buffet dinner is $CI 14. The dinners are simple but good and plentiful. The buffet is outside around the pool. Compared to the average price on the Island, the meals are reasonable.
Snorkel Gear per day per person $CI 11
Rafts per day $CI 8
Soft drinks On beach $CI 1.50 Soda machines $CI 1 Refrigerator in rooms $CI 1.50 (You can not store your own.) At local supermarket 50 cents CI. (The Supermarket is about 2 blocks away direction Georgetown.) Snorkeling off the Holiday Inn
This is probably the most interesting snorkeling directly from the hotel that we have seen in any of the islands that we have visited. To see the interesting fish you must swim out a bit. Look for the dark zones.
First place
When you step on the beach, turn right and walk to the end of the Holiday Inn property. Swim out about 100 yards until you reach the rock formations. Each time we were greeted by a school of Sergeant Majors. They would stay with us the whole time. There is a bit of coral but lots of fish.
Second place
As with the first place, turn to your right but walk about 1/2 mile to the far side of the Governor's house. Swim out about 100 yards and you will see some nice coral and plenty of fish. We even saw a 4 foot Barracuda. There are other small areas but these are the two we found the most interesting.
Car Rental
We didn't shop around for prices. We went just outside the hotel to Avis. A small compact (unlimited mileage) was $25US or $30US with air.
Car and Snorkeling Trips
Georgetown
With the car we drove around to a number of snorkeling places. We stopped at EDEN ROCK. That was probably the nicest spot. Afterwards we went to Smythe's Cove. It was a small but picturesque beach. The snorkeling was good. It would be a great place for a picnic lunch. Georgetown is very small. We did not find it interesting for shopping but then the water was so inviting that we couldn't fathom giving up any beach time to shop.
Eastend
We then drove out the East End. We found the Blow holes but nothing was blowing. To us the drive around the East End was a waste of time. We did not find any easy access for snorkeling.
Northsound
We then drove out to Rum Point. Although it is a picturesque area, we did not find it inviting to swim. The food was very expensive: two hamburgers, fries and sodas was $CI 25 but it was good. We then drove out to the west end. Westend
The snorkeling at the cemetery was nice. We were told that if you swim out a good distance that the snorkeling is excellent. Except for mailing a postcard from Hell, there is nothing to see. The Westend is not well marked but it is so small that even if you get lost it is no problem.
Boat Snorkeling trip
There are various trips to Stingray City. Some start directly from the beach (a longer boat ride), the others pick you up by bus and drive you to a dock. The prices vary from $CI20 to $CI30. The cheaper ones don't necessarily offer drinks but the stops and the time at each stop seem to all be the same: Stingray City, Barrier Reef and the Aquarium. We took Bayside. It was $US 25. The boat was a cruiser (not a sail boat). The crew was local, very nice and very helpful. We would definitely take it again. However we had to supply our own drinks; they only supplied ice and water. The same trip at the hotel is $US37. However it does leave from the beach. The boat is a sailboat and drinks (soda?) are included. Don't wait until the last day as some of the trips do fill up.
Night activities
The nights are very calm. The liveliest place seems to be the Holiday Inn. Except for Sunday night, there is a live band every night. Dress is very relaxed (shorts and even bare feet). It is a very pleasant atmosphere. There is enough light that we even swam in the sea at night. Most other beaches are dark.
Misc. Hotels
On our snorkeling trip, there were people from the Radisson, Treasure Island and the Hyatt. The couple from the Radisson said the hotel was good with a nice beach. The family from Treasure Island said the hotel was just adequate; the beach was not sand and shoes were needed to swim. The couple from the Hyatt said the hotel was beautiful but it is not on the beach. There is a long walk to the road or I guess there is bus service to the beach. They said the beach club was very nice.
Conclusion
We would definitely go back to Grand Cayman and stay in the Holiday Inn
again. If we can answer any questions, we will be happy to do it.
JAMAICA: NEGRIL BY LINDA MALONEY
Just returned from 8 nights in Negril. We stayed at Tensing Pen, which is on the cliffs maybe about 100 yards before Rick's. I really hesitate to tell about this place because it is so nice. We stayed in a pillar house which was about 10 feet off the ground. The shower was underneath outside. There are about 12 cottages, far apart, in a beautiful jungle of flowers. There are a number of great places to jump in the water, sit and sun, and the swimming is beautiful. Also, the snorkeling right at Tensing Pen is excellent. Lots of coral and many fish.
Our off season rate was about $650/week which included a breakfast of coffee, fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh fruits, and toast The room had a 4 poster bed, a ceiling fan, and a balcony with rocking chairs overlooking the ocean and sunset. I never slept so well as feeling the fresh ocean breezes and listening to the crashing waves. We went on a boat snorkeling trip, went to the beach, ate lobster until we should have been growing claws. I can't think of any negatives at all.
Now, we ate at different restaurants every night. cabs were inexpensive, we ate all we wanted. I estimate we spent about half of what it would have cost to be at an all inclusive, and we did and ate all we wanted. The Jamaican's are a warm and friendly people and we had a very good time with no hassles. Like, no problem, mon. Personally, I would never want to stay at an all inclusive because I enjoy having a choice of where to go and eat and not being sheltered away in an enclave of tourists. I am not criticizing anyone else's choices, just my opinion is the Negril is an enjoyable place to just visit. There are many nice small places to stay.
This was the first time I have been to Negril in the summer. It was quite uncrowded, cabs were less expensive as were accommodations. On the downside, there were not the live reggae shows you find in season but hey, I teach school and summer is a good time for me to go. Also, we had no hassles with higglers or such. A friendly and respectful "no thank you" was totally accepted.
My wife and I went to Negril for our honeymoon in '88 and absolutely fell in love with the area, the people, and most of all the atmosphere. We didn't make it back until '92, but we've been going yearly since.
This year we split our stay between our two favorite places in Negril, Hedo, and the Negril Inn. These two establishments are entirely different, but each has its own characteristics that bring us back. I believe it is very well documented on this BB what brings people to Hedo, but the Negril Inn doesn't get to much "board time".
Upon our arrival to Montego Bay our concerns about the busiest tropical storm season on record vanished quickly once we stepped foot on Jamaican soil! The weather was great the entire trip, with only an occasional brief afternoon shower. We noticed an improvement in the manner of which we were "handled" at Sangster. More organization, etc. We opted for the bus ride and again we were pleased in that what used to be total chaos in the airport lot, now seemed to be so much better organized. The use of hand held "two-way" radios by the individuals coordinating the transportation seemed to help immensely compared to what we've encountered on previous trips. Plus, the bus was brand new and only half full! All of these things made taking the bus not to bad after all. The only eventful thing about the bus trip was near Sandy Bay, there was a car that ran off the road and took down two telephone poles, but no one was injured.
Once the bus got to Negril our first stop was Hedo. I quickly jumped off to confirm our reservation for later in the week, jumped back on and two stops later we were at the Negril Inn. Upon check-in we are informed that they are giving us the exact room we requested. Great, considering there is only 46 rooms! But once the bell-boy got us to our room we realized we made a mistake in which building we asked for. So we explained this to the desk personal and they kindly got us the room we wanted!
A few of the main differences between the Negril Inn and Hedo that we enjoy is the size of the hotel, and the quality of the dining. Now we enjoyed lobster night at Hedo but the dining service and the food at the Negril Inn (on the non-buffet nights) is fabulous! The buffet food is fine, but the waiter served dinners are world class. The buffet nights are as follows; Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday) and you have dining service on Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Friday. Breakfast and lunch are always served buffet style. The dining room is open air style so we have learned to use bug repellent on your legs and feet if you don't wear long pants. The hotel encourages semi-formal to casual dress for dinner, and a swimsuit cover-up or clothing for breakfast and lunch.
The small size of the hotel, and the staff to guest ratio, enables you to get to know the other guests and the staff quite well. Some staff are always better than others, but that you will find anywhere. The beach is great with free (all inclusive) water skiing, snorkeling, sunfish sailing etc. My wife Kathy and I went snorkeling and it was so nice. The hotel loads a few people on a small boat, and takes you out several hundred yards to the reef for about 2 hours. It was great. Back to the beach. Most of the women sun-bathe topless regardless of age, figure, or any of the usual stigmas one finds back home. It's so laid back. We didn't do much on the beach but lay around.
But there is alot to do if want. We did rent a two person "jet-ski" that you sit side by side on. We rode the entire beach, from town to Hedo!
OK...The side by side jet-ski was great. It takes roughly fifteen minutes one way to go from one end of the beach to the other on the water. What a blast! The rental was 30 US plus a small tip and some fancy talking to get the guy to let us go out of his line of sight. On a previous trip my wife and I and another couple foolishly talked the same guy into renting us two" wave-runners" for a sunset trip to Ricks Cafe. Here was the deal. For a 100 US, we signed every waiver imaginable, and they would assume no liability. So at six o'clock sharp we departed the beach in front of the Negril Inn with full tanks (fully tanked) and headed off toward the west end. The sunset was nice but you could see that it would be obscured by the clouds prior to reaching the horizon. The scenery of the cliffs on the left was great but we were warned not to get to close due to the shallow rocky nature of the area.
We seemed to ride for ever, even thinking we had passed Ricks but we kept going. Then we rounded the corner and there it was! Ricks Cafe! As we approached the crowd gave us a big round of applause. What a feeling! We carefully pulled into the cove between divers and dropped of our wives and proceeded to head back out into the waves. While the gals took our pictures, we cruised around for about five minutes, came back in and pulled the wave- runners onto the rocks. We had a quick Red Stripe and mounted up to head back to the hotel. Well easier said than done! We hadn't kept track our time and our light was disappearing rapidly. So off we went. With little visibility we couldn't see exactly where the cliffs were so we stayed extra far out.(man) The swells were alot higher this time, and we had to go considerably slower. We were following to closely to the other waverunner and all of the sudden ours overturned. BOOM! What a surprise! So we regrouped and tried to get back on. It was so difficult for me to get on in those swells and in deep water. I finally got on and so did Kathy after toppling us both several times! So we finally made it back and we will never do it again. The jetski guy was a nervous wreck. He was upset the next day because he found scratches on the bottoms of the wave-runners from the rocks at Ricks. I offered to take care of it but he agreed that the rental amount was steep enough to cover it. All of us involved agreed that although this was one of the most exiting things we've ever done, albeit foolish!
This trip we went to Ricks a more conventional way, we rented a moped! The hotel provides bus transportation but we prefer riding ourselves there. On the way there we ran into a detour where the road was totally impassable. The detour takes you up toward Negril Hill then south about a half a mile then back to the West End. You bypass Jenny's, but you can get back to it if need be. We were told that Jenny has passed away since our last visit, but her shop remains intact. We got to Ricks extra early and we were seated in the dining area. We had this great lobster cocktail and drinks while we waited for things to heat up.
Later in the week we moved from the normally sedate, turn in by 10:00, quaint confines of the Negril Inn, to the anything goes resort complex known as Hedonism II. Hedo, as it is commonly reffered to , is located at the northern-most point on the seven mile beach area called Long Bay. It is situated perpendicular to the rest of the beach, and it is isolated from the rest of the beach via natural barriers and discreet security guards.
We checked in to our room, which was right by the "clothed" hot tub just adjacent to the swimming pool. The rooms are much more cosmopolitan than the rooms we are used to in Negril. King size bed, mirrored ceiling, room safes, heavy drapery, dead bolt and safety chained door locks. The resort is a large, sprawling complex, centered around a central dining area and pool. As everywhere else in Negril, no building can be any taller than the trees, so the hotel rooms are a series of two story "motels". The beach extends for several hundred feet east to west. The quality of the sand at the northern-most point of Negril beach that Hedo owns, is not as nice as the majority of the rest of the beach. Also, the swimming area sand is not nearly as nice as the southern half of the Negril beach. These two items do not detract from any enjoyment that you are going to have at Hedo.
We spent the day resting, and the afternoon on the nude beach. We settled in on our chaises, and I slowly wore a path in the sand from our spot to Delroy's retrieving Red Stripe, Rum punches, and ice water. Later in the day, the body painting began. This is a Hedo sponsored activity where you paint yourself, or you and your spouse paint each other. After everyone is done, the judges,(everyone!) chose who wins. I don't recall exactly who the winners were, but I do recall one that got my vote! This gal had her front side painted up like the rear end of a pussycat! The paint job portrayed the cat looking back over her shoulder with her tail high in air. The cat's rear legs went down the front of each the gals legs and the cats rear end was graphically represented by this particular ladies neatly trimmed and shaven crotch! We didn't participate in the body painting but we certainly participated in the judging! What a great afternoon. The clothing optional environment may seem intimidating to the uninitiated outsider, but fifteen minutes into it and everyone loses their judgmental ways. There are body shapes and sizes of every kind and it is all so natural.
So after a busy (mainly laying around!) afternoon we went back to our room for some much needed rest, then we went to dinner. As we had learned on this board, lobster night had moved to Tuesday night (tonight). Good meal, good service, good entertainment.
The entertainment consisted of the scavenger hunt. Kind of loud, but alot of fun. Dinners at Hedo's main dining area are buffet and it doesn't get much better than this. The lobster was grilled to perfection.
JAMAICA: JAMAICA GRANDE AND COUPLES BY ADAM RICH
JAMAICA GRANDE:
We arrived in Montego Bay at approx. noon. Took a while to get through customs, etc. Once on the Jamaica Grande bus, we had to wait approx. 30 minutes for enough people to arrive to leave. We were not crowded in, as the bus had the capacity for about 20, and there were a total of about 8-9 people aboard.
The ride to Ocho Rios took a little less than 2 hours, and was an adventure in itself. The scenery was beautiful, but the Jamaican road system that we observed is very sub-standard. Two lanes the entire way, with everything crowding the road in sections. It seems to be a combination road/sidewalk/bazaar. Drivers, including our bus driver, will pass slower vehicles anywhere, especially in the curves. This, combined with the fact that they drive on the left hand side of the road, made some of the passing attempts very un-nerving.
Arriving at the Jamaica Grande (JG hereafter), we were simply unloaded and not given any instructions. So we got in line at a part of the front desk, which fortunately turned out to be the correct line. We were assigned a room, and told it was being prepared. They fastened our wristbands (we were on the all-inclusive package), and invited us to have a drink at the bar and someone would come get us. After about 30 minutes, I again went to the desk and asked about our room. We were given key-cards by the harried front desk worker and tried to get our luggage. They insisted on carrying it up. So we went to our room and waited.
The room was perfect. It was spotless, and had a beautiful ocean view. After about an hour of waiting for our luggage, we ventured out to purchase film and explore the resort. When we returned we called the front desk and learned that the bell-boys do not have a key to leave the luggage in the room, and our luggage was brought up immediately.
The resort itself is immaculate (at least the parts we saw) and we were very pleased with it. The pool/waterfall/swim-up bar area is very nice, and everything was very well kept. We noticed that there were a LOT of kids in the pool area, and many of them appeared to be local kids that just walked in. Service at the swim-up bar was pretty slow, but the drinks they had were excellent. The beaches (two separated by a coral pier) were very nice, with plenty of chairs available, but the bottom was sandy
only out to about 10 feet, were it became pretty rocky. The beach was excellent for laying out or floating on a raft, but swimming would have to be done in the pools. One problem out at the beaches is that locals will come to you on their jet-skis and try to get you to rent them. They will take no for an answer, but this became annoying after a while. Another is that there is a large industrial bauxite loading pier sharing the same harbor as the beaches. Not noisy, but clashed with the otherwise gorgeous view. Jet-skis, kayaks, supervised Sunfish sailboats and sailboards are available, and all unmotorized craft are included in the all-inclusive price. Scuba is also available, but I did not check into that so I cannot say what that involves.
Also included is the snorkeling trip out to the reef (a few hundred yards offshore). Everything is provided, and it was very pleasant. Scuba-divers and experienced snorkellers will not be impressed by the reef, as it is mostly dead coral, but my wife loved it because of the large numbers of colorful fish. The guides are very helpful, and will attract the fish to eat out of your hand. We had a lot of fun doing this.
The food at the JG restaurants was adequate. We were not terrible impressed, but nor were we disappointed. (Bring your own ketchup! Jamaican ketchup is like red syrup, and you get fries with almost everything.) At night, there is a LARGE buffet, were we WERE impressed by the food. It was very spicy, and a wide variety of dishes were available. The nightly bands were also very good.
When the band would quit playing, everyone seemed to go to the Jamaican-Me-Crazy Discotheque. Black walls with wild fluorescent drawings with black lights. Very loud, very crazy, and very fun. We didn't stay late most nights, as all this relaxation was very tiring.
But you have to try this at least once.
Things we loved::
facilities were first rate drinks were excellent
Red Stripe Beer
proximity to Ocho Rios
Red Strip Beer <G>
resort had everything we would need CNN and weather channel availabl
availability of buses/taxis
weeks worth of entertainment Jamaican-Me-Crazy Discotheque
Things we didn't like :
slow staff
food
phone would ring for no reason persistence of street merchants
day trips cost extra
resort prices!
$50 deposit for phone use
high fare prices
zillions of kids
couldn't keep cut-off wristbands for souvenirs
COUPLES:
I had heard a little about Couples, and Tuesday afternoon I rented a scooter to drive down for an escorted tour. The first thing I noticed was that everyone there was on the all-inclusive (that's all they offer) and thus, nobody had to wear a wristband.
They were also very strict about only letting paying guests in, but they gladly gave me the tour. I noticed that the resort was VERY nice, but had some signs of wear. The rooms were also not as nice as at the JG. Outside, however, the beach was much wider, and very relaxed. Evidently the beach is clothing optional/topless optional, as there were several women not wearing their tops. The average age seemed to be 20-25, and everything was very laid back, and much quieter. This resort is much more secluded than the JG, and would have been a much better setting for a honeymoon.
We returned the next day and purchased day passes for $40 US each. They were good from 10 am to 6 pm, but we were told by the bartender that we could stay longer, as they have no idea who is there on a day pass. About noon, we ventured out to the nude island, where there were 3 other couples and Miguel, the bartender. Everyone was off to themselves, and would occasionally make trips to the bar to get a drink or some food (evidently, chicken and fries are brought out for us to snack on). Eventually most of the couples gravitated to the pool-bar, and we talked for several hours about anything and everything. Everyone was extremely friendly, and we were very comfortable, even though this was our first experience at a nude beach. The island itself is a couple hundred feet long, and relatively narrow. There is a small castle/tower that contains the restroom and two small upper levels where you can observe the area or get a little privacy. Miguel left for about an hour to take his break, but he told us to help ourselves to anything in the bar, and showed us where everything was. The island closes at 5 pm, so we returned to the mainland and had the outdoor buffet. The staff was very quick and very courteous, and even carried my new wife's plate to our table 5 feet from the end of the buffet line. The food was excellent, and the atmosphere was very pleasant. We stayed late playing volleyball, then hailed a bus to return us to JG.
We liked the quiet atmosphere at Couples so much that we returned the following day, again spending the bulk of our time out on the island. There were a few more people there that day, but some of our friends from the previous day were out again. We definitely enjoyed ourselves at Couples, as the atmosphere was more to our liking. We are planning a return to the resort next summer.
Things we loved:
No children
day trips are included (Dunn's River, horseback riding, etc.)
privacy of nude island, no gawkers
everyone w/significant other, no "picking up" going on
excellent food at buffet (didn't try restaurants)
resort had TV room, weight room, Ping-Pong, racquetball, etc.. plenty to do
relaxed, quiet atmosphere
Red Stripe beer <G>
Things we didn't:
Far from Ocho Rios
Inside accommodations a little older
Both resorts were very nice, but because of the atmosphere at Couples, we liked that one a little better. You cannot lost at either one, as you will not be bored at either. They both provide plenty of entertainment, and you can spend your entire time in the resorts and not spend a dime if you don't want to. Food, drinks, and entertainment are all provided in the all-inclusive plans, and will keep you busy your entire stay.
Our only outside trip was to Dunn's River Falls, and we highly recommend everyone to experience this. Bring your camera, as there are some amazing places to have others take your picture. Our best pictures of the honeymoon were taken by strangers at the Falls.
Le Sapotillier
In countless restaurants in France--expensive and bon marche I've been thrilled by what Barbara Kafka describes as the "proud sense of ownership of a serious historical discipline, which assures that eating out in France is a stellar experience." In spirit, decor and cuisine, this spot is as close as you can come in St. Barth to that "resto" you fell in love with on the road between Paris and Dijon. A small establishment (40 seats), divided into three rooms (one open to the sky), managed by a staff of four and with a two-person kitchen, Le Sapotillier offers a sizeable enough menu--10 apps, 10 main courses--highlighting French standards and ingenious Caribbean adaptations of the classics. In years past, I have savored puff pastry with mushrooms, slices of smoked salmon wrapped around fresh salmon mousse, supremes de volailles stuffed with pencil-thin stalks of fresh asparagus and served with a champagne reduction sauce; lamb stew with baby carrots, potatoes and onions, tarte tatin with creme anglaise, and well, you get the idea. "Patron" Adam Ragner (and, some years, his charming wife Nicole) greet and entertain their guests with the nonchalance that typifies the best of French service, with none of the attitude that Americans often find off-putting--in other words, French formality and correctness, but always in shorts and always with a joke and a smile.
For those who go to St. Barth specifically because it is France in the Caribbean, Le Sapotillier is without doubt the defining moment of one's vacation. Don't miss it.
ST. THOMAS: SAPPHIRE BEACH RESORT BY STEVEN RADCLIFFE
Our family of five (wife and three girls - 14,12,10) just returned to Chicago from 10 glorious days at the Sapphire Beach Resort and Marina. What a trip! We travel a lot, including Europe every few years and I never thought the Virgin Island (British too)
were so awesome and beautiful. Until this trip, I thought nothing could even compare with Hawaii, but now I don't know................Anyway.....
We selected the Sapphire based upon literature, FODOR's, and the numerous postings on bulletin boards.
We had considered the Stouffers, the Grand Palazzo, and to a lesser degree, the Bolongo clubs. While we were on the island, we visited almost all of these and knew that the Sapphire was the best choice. Here's why: The location on the east end of the island looks out towards St. John with the BVI's in the distance. It also faces into the trade winds, which rustled through our two story villa (E-Building for the curious). This does help one keep cool when not in the water. Also, the beach is the best on the island (with the technical exception of Magen's, but I like waves) and you are 15 seconds from the surf.
The restaurants like the Seagrape and especially the one at the pool are really exceptional. The kids ate free most of the time at the Sailfish Cafe (which could use a makeover and will be receiving one). They loved it and so did we.
The Sapphire has music at the beach bar (what a fun place) on Friday nights and Saturday nights, and an island famous party on Sundays from 2-5 p.m. All the locals come to this and it is quite a spectacle. We experienced two of these and watched boats come over from St. John and anchor offshore just to get in on the action. In addition to the free meals for the kids, The Sapphire provides snorkel gear, Sunfish and other aquatic items free of charge. We used this extensively on the beach all day long.
We rented a car for three days - $118 from Budget who is located right at the hotel. Since the taxi fees are so high, the car paid for itself. For the one half mile to Red Hook it is $2.50 per person! For the five of us then it would be $25 round trip! We would have loved to walk, but the roads were extremely narrow and there were no shoulders. Driving on the left hand side came naturally, but you do have to pay attention. We saw two horrid accidents that I will skip discussing here. We used the car to explore every road on St. Thomas and virtually every back road in Charlotte Amalie ( including the 6 block "crack" house area that is getting all the media hype). Chicago should have it so good.
Magen's Bay beach was rated one of the ten best in the world and it was soon apparent why. There is not even a pebble on the beach, only the most perfect sand I have ever seen (I once thought Kauai had that title). It was amazing, but hot as it faces to the NW and does not get the great winds that I love. But you must see this bay!!! Took the road (path) up to Mountaintop for a great view of the island and was very glad we did. The bar up there is supposed to be packed on weekend nights. I sure don't know how anyone could drive back down after a few drinks.
Red Hook is a little harbor just to the south of the Sapphire and has all the shopping you need and some you don't ($2,000 bracelet for one). We took the ferry over to St. John and rented a jeep from Delbert's (easy to find). A local on St. Thomas said he had a good selection and it was true. Off we went! We thought St. Thomas was hilly until we experienced St. John. Wow! This was our only cloudy day as we experienced a tropical wave from Erin traveling to the north and pulling up some southerly air. St. John is very beautiful. Saw the Annaberg sugar mill as well as many other ruins of Danish plantations. Trunk Bay and Cinnamon Bay were everything we heard, but skip the "famous" lobster sandwich at the trailer on the way to Annaberg - it was a rip.
Cruz Bay on St. John is very much less sophisticated than anything on St. Thomas. The kids really got a kick out of the town. Other than the new little shopping "villa" called the Mongoose over to the left, there is a lot of local flavor here. We drove over to the Hyatt Virgin Grand through some relatively poor areas. I really did not expect that on St. John, having heard it was a rich island, but reality is reality. I had known the original developer of the hotel years ago before it was a Stouffer and later a Hyatt and had heard all the stories about the construction nightmares. Overall, I was disappointed. I like Hyatts for the most part. In fact, the one on Kauai is unreal. I just felt this hotel was too secluded and that once there, you were really stuck there! Also, the beach was much smaller than in the photos and since the bay was full of ships, I felt that swimming there was not very esthetic at all. This hotel is the twin sister (for the most part) of the Stouffers on St. Thomas and I think I liked the Stouffer better.
The highlights of our trip were scuba diving and a great boat trip into the British Virgin Islands. We took the Pirates Penny from Red Hook. The sister ship is called the Stormy Petrel and these are both docked right behind the Piccola Marina in Red Hook.
You will book this awesome trip through the Charter Boat Connection, whose office is right there next to the former Italian restaurant. Maggie and Joan run this specialty shop and can book any type of cruise or sailboat anywhere in the Caribbean. At any rate, we had decided to get over into the "UK" and had two commercial choices for a day trip. The "Limnos" carries about 42 people and is around $50 per person. It goes over to Virgin Gorda and then throughout the islands. The Petrel and the Penny cost about $90 per person, plus $10 for customs clearance at Virgin Gorda, plus about $10 per person for lunch at the wonderful Cooper Island Beach Club. This small "hotel" is the only thing on the island.
Anyway, the boat left at 8 a.m. with John and Chris, two strikingly tan and handsome young guys (my wife was drueling) and we headed past the north shore of St. John and also the north side of Tortola into Virgin Gorda. This took about 2 hours and these guys answered my kids' millions of questions effortlessly. Oh - the reason these boats are more expensive then the Limnos is that they are only 42' long and take 11-12 passengers max. We wanted to feel like it was a mini-expedition rather than a cruise and it was just great.
After 30 minutes on Virgin Gorda, we sailed over to the Baths, the famous site of granite boulders you see in the brochures and calendars around the world. I am fascinated by strange geological marvels and these are really something to experience. The guys knew all the "trails" and nooks and crannies and we eventually dove off a 12' rock into the ocean before swimming back to the boat. All the boats have to anchor about 200-300' off of the beach, so it is a fun snorkel into the beach and over some small coral formations. A few minutes later we arrived at Cooper Island and had the great lunch I mentioned. This little resort (4 buildings expanding to 7) is very quaint. No fresh water or food is on the island so it must come over from Tortola. Also the electricity generator goes off about 7 p.m. or so. But it sure seems to be a great place for a couple to stay if they want privacy and like to swim and dive. There is nothing else at all, but who needs anything else there???
After lunch the boat entered Great Harbour on the northwest side of Peter Island for some serious reef snorkeling and fish feeding. This was just spectacular and the best we experienced anywhere. On the trip back to Red Hook, my 10 year old entertained everyone with Forrest Gump imitations while the guys let her drive the boat. We got back about 4:30 p.m. and all agreed it was the highlight of the trip. We will definitely do it again next time down.
Like most of the resorts in the islands, the Sapphire offers scuba dives to its guests. These "resort dives" start with an hour of instruction and practice in the pool and then for $55 you get a great beach dive. In our case we drove over to Coki Beach near the Stouffer. Coki has been a major dive beach for over 20 years. What this means is that there are thousands of fish waiting for dog biscuits or bread. We walked out from the beach, with Mike the instructor adjusting our buoyancy vests as we floated downward over the reefs. My wife, myself and my 12 year old hit our record depth at 29 feet! Feeding the fish was really amazing. We were surrounded by hundreds of fish with colors that beg description. This is something that is very safe and that everyone should try. We can't wait to do it again.
RANDOM THOUGHTS:
We were very glad we went in the off season, especially on the day we visited Charlotte Amalie when only one cruise ship was in and we felt the press of the crowds. What it is like on a 7 ship day in December or January, I don't want to know. One day in town was enough. I feel sorry for the cruise ship passengers who never really see the island. When shopping for jewelry, buy only from the big reputable stores like Riise, Little Switzerland, or Amsterdam Sauer. We bought items at the latter two stores. They each have numerous branches on St. Thomas and all the pricing is the supposedly the same at any branch. I was never sure what that meant, since each jewelry piece differs from the next. Also, never pay the asking price. You can get 15% off on the average. Even at Amsterdam Sauer in the Grand Palazzo, where all the wealthy Italians hang out, they gave me a negotiated discount on a topaz ring. Rent a car - don't be afraid of the left hand side of the road. It is not that expensive. Besides it is the most convenient way to dine at the Agave Terrace at Point Pleasant or visit Magen's Bay.
Stay at the Sapphire! Even without kids, my wife and I will come here again. It is just so fun, beautiful and casual. I can't imagine another resort on the island to have the same ambiance. The resort is undergoing an expansion soon, but the plans look great and I think it will retain its island flavor. Boy, I miss the blackened fish at the pool restaurant................ Have a great time! We sure did!!!
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