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Caribbean Travel RoundupNewsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor |
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April 27-May 5, 2001 Our second visit to Sans Souci, which we booked through Lance at Go Classy, was as wonderful, even better in some ways, as the first. Now that Air Jamaica has non-stop flights from Phoenix to Montego Bay, getting there was much easier. In '99, flying from Tucson to Dallas to Miami to Montego Bay was more exhausting than taking the red-eye from Phoenix. This time, we arrived in Montego Bay around 6:00 in the morning, took the SuperClubs bus to GLSS and arrived at 8:00 a.m. The bus was one of the small ones. It wasn't a scary ride, but a long, noisy, uncomfortable one. The best part of the bus ride was meeting Mark and Kim, a great couple from Phoenix who happened to be on the same flight. We spent lots of time with them till they left the following Thursday, and they were so much fun. When we arrived at Sans Souci, we didn't get the champagne/Red Stripe greeting because the bars weren't open that early, but we checked in and were told to come back around noon to see if our rooms were ready. In the meantime, we were invited to breakfast at Palazzina. John and I knew the way, so the four of us walked to Palazzina, enjoyed the breakfast buffet and were able to get our first Mimosas. After breakfast we went to the spa office and made our appointments for the week. The new Spa Manager is Karoline Smith, who used to be the Front Desk Manager. We loved Karoline from our last trip and recognized her right away. We were totally surprised when she came around from her desk, gave me a hug and said "John and Judith, welcome back." The managers must get advance information about returning guests. After making our appointments, we went to the salon to schedule our manicures and pedicures for later that morning since we wouldn't be getting into our room till after lunch. When we walked in the door, two of the girls pointed at us and said, "We remember you. You were here before." Honest, we didn't do anything outrageous on our last trip. The Sans Souci staff is just that good at customer service. We went back to the lobby and made dinner reservations at Casanova for three nights. No problem. With all the scheduling out of the way, we retrieved one of our carry-on bags, took it to the Balloon Bar restrooms and changed into shorts. We headed for one of our favorite places, the Beach Bar, which had just opened and had a couple of Pina Coladas. Then, running out of energy, we went looking for our favorite hammock. It's near A Block, just off the beginning of the path to the c/o beach, a quiet spot except for the sounds of birds in the big trees all around it. A nice place for a nap. We got into our room after lunch. We were on the third floor in B Block, which is beachfront with a nice balcony and an ocean view. Most mornings we had Room Service breakfast on that balcony and could hear the flute from Palazzina. We loved the location. The refrigerator hadn't been stocked yet, so we called Room Service and asked Kevan if he could bring us some bottles of water and if he had any bottles of Red Stripe. He said, "No, but I know where I can get you some." He was there in a few minutes with the water, the Red Stripe and a big smile. Besides the beach, the restaurants, the bars and beautiful surroundings, it was the employees like Kevan who made Sans Souci so enjoyable. Our housekeeper, Karen, always had a smile. Sunday morning it was pouring rain and we realized our room was missing an umbrella. We saw Karen outside the room and asked her where we could get one. She came in to use the phone and had one sent right up. Later when she made up our room, she left hibiscus flowers on the pillows. We told her how much we liked them, and the next day, besides the flowers on the pillows, she left a bouquet of bougainvillea on the coffee table. One night while we were out for dinner, one of the housekeepers doing the turndown service spelled out Welcome Back in some kind of small blossoms across the sheet. On that rainy Sunday morning, we were eating breakfast on the balcony and watching one of the Grounds employees raking leaves under a big tree in front of Palazzina. They raked the leaves every morning, rain or shine. He was wearing a long, hooded raincoat and working hard in the rain. When he finished, he walked over to a couple under a shelter on the beach. We couldn't hear what they were saying, but they were showing him something and pointing to one of the palm trees. He left for a few minutes and returned with something to cut down what we later learned were coconuts. He cut off the tops and handed them to the couple along with some straws. As he walked back across the lawn in front of our building, I called down to him and asked what he had. He said, "coconuts, I'll bring you some. What room are you in?" He brought us the coconuts, cut off the tops and gave us each a straw. His name was Richard. He and Karen told us coconut juice "washes your heart." They brought joy to our hearts. On Saturday at the Beach Bar I started talking to a young man I assumed was another guest. He introduced himself as John Cadieaux, the sous-chef at Casanova. When I told him we would be dining there that night and two more times later in the week, he started describing some of the food on the Casanova menu. As he described the sauces, I almost drooled on the bar. He told us to ask for him when we came in. We did, and he made suggestions, and a couple of times even prepared something that wasn't on the menu. All the food we ate at Casanova was to die for, and our waiter, Lennon, was outstanding. We ate inside all three times, once upstairs and twice downstairs. It seemed cooler downstairs, and we enjoyed being near the piano. I know some don't like the jacket requirement, but we like getting dressed up when going to a nice restaurant. Before dinner on Monday night we went to the Manager's Cocktail Party by the Main Pool. If you are interested in learning about the resort and want to meet some of the managers, try to work this into your schedule. It only lasts an hour. We visited with several of the managers, including the General Manager, Pierre Battaglia. We told him how impressed we were with the staff and told him about Richard and the coconuts. He suggested we put Richard's name on the comment card prior to checkout and explained that the comment cards are reviewed and employees who are named are rewarded. The management encourages the staff to interact with the guests, and the staff does a good job of it. They smile, joke with you and still appear professional. I've read where some guests felt they were being solicited for tips. We never got that impression and wonder if an employee's desire to do his job well was being misinterpreted. As in the past, the only people we tipped were the drivers and the airport baggage handlers. We take SuperClubs at its word that its resorts are all-inclusive and tips are not permitted. Another thing we complimented the General Manager on was the new location of Bella Vista, the Jamaican restaurant. It used to be up on the hill; now it' s down on the beach on the patio between the Beach Bar and the ocean. We had heard it was his idea and that he wanted it to be a true Jamaican experience. It is. There's a three- piece Jamaican band, good Jamaican food, and the trees are strung with mini-lights. It's so romantic with the candlelight and the sound of the water washing up on the sand. And when the band stops playing, you can hear the tree frogs singing. We didn't use the clothing optional beach, and since it is more popular than it was on our last visit, there were always plenty of lounge chairs on the main beach, and it wasn't as difficult to find a shady spot. The beach was always clean. Every morning it was raked, and guys were out gathering up anything that had washed up on the sand. We went kayaking, John went out snorkeling (The boat goes twice a day.), and we went out on the water on the floaties. We didn't participate in the activities except for my reggae dance lesson, but we could hear the action and people having fun. One day we saw a guest pick up Xavian, the Entertainment Manager and throw him, fully clothed, into the Main Pool while other guests hooted and cheered him on. We didn't spend much time at the Main Pool, but did use the swim-up bar a couple of times. There seemed to be more bar service on the beach this time. Waitresses, usually Connie or Hopelyn, would come up to your lounge chairs and ask if you'd like something to drink. If you see them on the beach or at the Beach Bar, tell them you read about them on the Internet. They both seemed shy, but they were friendly. The food at the Beach Grill is good but the service is slow. One day I went up to our room and ordered a pizza from Room Service and brought it down. We grabbed a couple of Red Stripes, and the guy next to us said, "Well, I hope you brought enough for the whole class." It's nice to be in a place where everyone is in a good mood. On our previous trip, we didn't have any rain. This trip, it rained several times, but we had some beach time every day. The Tuesday night Jamaican Beach Party was rained out and moved to Palazzina. Not as nice inside, but the show was good. On Thursday we had our reflexology appointments scheduled for 6:00 so we could watch the sunset over the water. The rain that afternoon stopped shortly before our appointments. They were going to do our reflexology in one of the treatment rooms, but I begged Karoline. She went outside, wiped off the chairs with some towels and said okay. I think the therapists were friendlier this time. While we were having our reflexology, Monique and Chris (friends from the Grand Lido Visitors Hangout) walked up and we started talking. The therapists thought we were old friends. When we told them we met Monique and Chris on the Internet, they were amazed and kept talking about it. John and I enjoyed all the spa treatments, especially the massages that we had together in the Hideaway. You can request the Hideaway (a good reason to schedule your appointments as soon as you arrive). It's the round rock hut that has windows that look right out to the ocean, and it's the best! We spent more time in our in-room Jacuzzi this time. We took the CD player into the bathroom lit a bunch of candles that I brought along and poured champagne. We always kept champagne in the fridge. Almost every night after dinner we went to the Balloon Bar. It was a great place to meet other guests. The bartenders were fun, and the entertainment was good, especially the Monday night Fashion Show featuring the Entertainment staff as models and a mock Jamaican wedding. If you are a repeat guest, be sure to let Sans Souci know. Del Fong, the Public Relations Manager gave us a questionnaire to complete for their database that, among other things, asks your room preference. If a balcony or an ocean view or a particular location is important to you, Del said they try to accommodate you on your next visit. We also got a letter from the General Manager, offering us a free night on our next visit, and a gift was delivered to our room. Del invited us to a lunch off property for repeat guests. At first we thought, big deal, we get a free lunch here, but we decided to go and were glad we did. It was on the patio of a beautiful Italian restaurant only about five minutes from Sans Souci. Besides enjoying the wonderful food and wine, we had a chance to visit with Del and Estria Richards, another manager who went along, and other returnees who love Sans Souci as much as we do. Since we were at GLSS for eight days, we were there for two Grand Galas. The first one was on the lawn in front of B Block and was elegant with all the candlelit tables and the canopied food stations, decorated with mini-lights and big ice sculptures. Our second Gala was the night before we left. It had to be moved inside Palazzina because of rain, so we decided to order dinner from Room Service. Kevan brought us a bottle of cabernet, Caesar Salad, Mediterranean Snapper, Balsamic Chicken Breast and brownies for dessert. We took our dinner and some candles and flowers out to the table on the balcony. Since we were on the third floor and only three balconies over from Palazzina, we could hear and see the Gala entertainment. After dinner we went down to the Beach Bar and said some good-byes. We didn't have to check out until noon on Saturday, so we got up early and spent a couple of hours on the beach. While we were packing, Karoline called to say good-bye, and at noon we put our bags outside the door and went to the lobby to check out. Since our bus wasn't leaving until 2:00, we went to the Beach Bar where we met a couple who had just arrived from Virginia. The four of us went to Palazzina for lunch and then it was off to the airport. And time to start planning our next trip to Sans Souci. April '99 Trip Report: http://caribtravelnews.com/c0599_03.htm#jamjudith
As our bus made its way from Mexico City, we passed mile after mile of shanty towns, on both sides of the road, sprawled on hillsides as far as the eye could see. I was staring at these blights of the 20th century when the voice of Jos‚, our guide, boomed over the microphone, "We're hurrying to make sure that we will not be late for lunch at the pyramid." A lady sitting next to me, looking perplexed, piped up, "Late for lunch! But it's only ten o'clock." Jos‚'s laugh came loud and clear, "We have to get you ready atop the Pyramid of the Sun for lunch. You know! To be sacrificed to the gods!" Almost everyone snickered at the punch line and this put us in the mood for the day's tour. First we were to visit the ruins at Teotihuac n, then travel to Pachuca and Real del Monte and end the day with a meal at a typical hacienda, converted into a huge restaurant. In this one day we were to travel from Mexico's ancient Indian past to its modern age towns, then dine on the exotic food of the state of Hidalgo about which Jos‚ continually spoke. For me, it sounded like an exciting agenda, especially as I looked forward to the feast at the end of our journey. Jos‚ had barely finished his joke when we came to Teotihuac n, some 48 km (30 mi) northeast of Mexico City. Entering the ruins, we passed a sign stating, `Welcome to the city of the gods' - a name given to it by the Aztecs. For visitors like us, it is an appropriate invitation to Mexico's most popular tourist attraction and that country's first true city. The 34 sq km (13 sq mi) Teotihuac n, the most awe-inspiring archeological site in Mexico, was the first major city in the Western Hemisphere. Flourishing between 500 B.C. and 700 A.D., it served as the religious, political and commercial mecca of Mexico, spreading its influence well into Central America. With 70,000 inhabitants, it was the most advanced urban centre of its time until much of the city was mysteriously burned in the late 8th century. We toured the Temple of the Sun, a massive 66 m (215 ft) high pyramid, the smaller Temple of the Moon, the Grand Avenue of the Dead, edged on both sides by small temples dedicated to various gods, and the Temple of Quetzalc¢atl with its enormous ornamental snake heads. After some of us struggled up the steep 250 steps to the top of the Temple of the Sun, we surveyed the grand scene of the ruins from where the ancient priests once stood. It was a fantastic adieu to the ancient city where it is said `the gods were born'. After a 20 minute drive from Teotihuac n, we found the road closed and had to make a long detour. To keep us busy and forget the extra miles, every few minutes Jos‚ would talk in glowing terms of the foods, unique to the State of Hidalgo. By the time we had reached Pachuca, some 63 km (39 mi) from Teotihuac n, my mouth began to water in anticipation. However, as we entered this city of some 700,000, I soon forgot all about the delights of the described dishes. I could hardly believe my eyes. It seemed to me that we were entering a US or Canadian town located in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. Buildings, spreading to the horizon, appeared to be newly constructed, neat and seemingly built in an organized fashion. "Am I in Mexico?", I thought to myself. I could barely believe my eyes. After touring the town, my first impressions were confirmed. The people walking the streets were well-dressed and the old section, dotted with well-kept gardens and parks, was very attractive. Even downtown, in the very heart of old Pachuca, its chief park, the Independence Square, was immaculate and greatly enhanced by a monumental replica of London's Big Ben - a gift from Britain to Hidalgo - due a long historic connection between Britain and that state. Pachuca has a setting that is spectacular. Creeping up the surrounding green hills, on a sunny day the town glitters as if it is a pale-white jewel set in a field of emeralds - and the sparkling, perhaps, emitted from its soil. The silver which is still being mined today, gave the town the label 'city with a silver soul' and drew adventurers from far and wide to seek their fortunes. >>From among these were the British silver miners who, in the 1800s, settled in the nearby town of Real del Monte. For many years, they kept to themselves, hanging tenaciously on to their Englishness. Strangely, when the miners died, they were buried facing toward Britain. The miners entire life revolved around British ways, including the food of their former homeland. A leftover from that time in Real del Monte and Pachuca are turnovers made from potatoes and meat, known locally as pastes. >>From Pachuca, we climbed upward through green hills, past a huge statue of Christ overlooking Pachuca, until we reached Real del Monte, 6 km (3.6 mi) away - once a carbon copy of a British town. Crossing this town known for its great mining traditions, we again came to a blocked roadway. "We're jinxed!" Jos‚ commented as we turned to retrace our steps. On our way back to Pachuca to take another road for our rendez-vous with our Hidalgo meal, we stopped in the heart of Real del Monte. Jos‚ stepped out but was soon back with a large box of pastes. Taking the first bite, I almost purred in pleasure. The English turnovers had been turned by the Mexicans into gourmet delights. I sat back content, thinking, "If the Mexicans could do this to the British almost tasteless turnover what a heavenly gastronomic world must await us at the hacienda." Soon we were seated in the Hacienda Concepcion, located a short distance from Pachuca, I could hardly control my excitement as Manuel, our waiter, announced in perfect English, "Tonight you will dine on the best food in our state." Listening to him, I oozed contentment. In a few minutes, bowls of consume de cabra (goat soup) were set before us. I quickly scooped a tablespoon into my mouth. As I swallowed, I felt sickened. The smell and taste of the soup was repugnant. Thinking that I would make the soup palatable, I stirred almost two tablespoons of hot pepper sauce into my bowl. Alas! The goat smell and taste overpowered that of the hot sauce. Putting the soup aside, I waited for the next dish, barbacoa de cabra - barbecued pieces of goat meat wrapped in tin foil. Alerted by the soup, I put a tiny piece in my mouth. I was flabbergasted! The smell and taste were much more repulsive than that of the soup. I looked around to find that I was not alone. All the members of our group had not touched their meat. It was apparent that no one was enjoying the meal. The culinary ensnaring promises of Jos‚ had come to naught. As the saying goes, 'one man's gourmet joy is another man's 'culinary nightmare'. I whole heartily agreed with Tim, my fellow traveller, "The people in Hidalgo might think of their food as great. For me, it is not to be found in their goat dishes." That evening as darkness encompassed us, during the 94 km (58 mi) drive back to Mexico City, our day's journey floated back before me in a kaleidoscope of events and colours. Majestic Indian pyramids, a sparkling new city, British heritage, and Hidalgo foods- a culinary dream smashed by reality. IF YOU GO Tips: 1) If with a group, Julia Tours in Mexico City will arrange an excursion which would include Teotihuac n and Pachuca. If alone, rent a car or a taxi for the day. 2) Small cars, fully insured with unlimited mileage, rent for about $70. per day. Beware! It is not easy to drive in Mexico City - it seems that all drivers continually drive in and out of their lanes. 3) The official Mexican currency is the peso currently trading at 9 to 10 pesos to a US dollar. 4) Tip baggage handlers and bellboys $1.00 per suitcase; maids $1.00 per day and 50 cents tip for washroom attendants is usual. 5) The people of Pachuca are hospitable and the city's touristic facilities are excellent. The city is safe. The climate is very agreeable - clean fresh air flowing in from the forested mountains without pollution make life in Pachuca healthy and relaxing. 6) Silver prices in Pachuca and Real del Monte are more reasonable than in Taxco or any other place in Mexico. Sites to See: In Pachuca - the Regional History and Photography Museums, housing photographic mementoes of the Mexican Revolution; the Mining Museum, telling the story of 500 years of silver mining; the Mineralogy Museum,exhibiting minerals from the four corners in the world; the San Francisco Ex-convent, defusing the splendour of a bygone age; and Orfebres Real del Monte where one can purchase silver products of great workmanship. In Real del Monte - the British Cemetery; the Cantina, an old drug store; the barbershop; and some of the old churches will give the traveller an idea of life at the beginning of this century. Where to Stay in Pachuca: The 5-star Hotels La Joya - tel: 52(7)718-3010; fax: 52(7)718-4150; and Hotel Excelencia Plaza - tel: 52(7)718-2828; fax: 52(7)718-0009. The 4 star Hotel Fiesta Inn - tel: 52(7)711- 3011; fax: 52(7)711- 3910; and the 3-star Hotel Ciros - tel: 52(7)715-5408; fax: 52(7)715- 4083. Prices for all these hotels are very reasonable - for example, the daily price for the luxury Hotel Excelencia Plaza is about $65 for double room. Note: All prices quoted are in US dollars. For Further Information, Contact: In Canada contact the Mexican Government Tourism Office - 2 Bloor St. West, Suite 1801, Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. Tel: 416/925-0704. Fax: 416/925-6061; in the U.S.A. - 405 Park Ave., Suite 142, New York, NY 10022. Tel: 212/755-7261; or Toll-Free Assistance, from US/Canada 1- 800-44 Mexico; in Mexico -Secretary of Tourism, State of Hidalgo. Tel: Toll Free 01-800-7156800. E-mail: turishgo@hidalgo.gob.mx
The air was heavy with humidity, but we didn't mind because we knew in a few minutes another Caribbean breeze would cool us off again. Checking the weather back home, and finding out their heat wave seemed "permanent," we smiled even longer. We were on vacation in the paradise island of Puerto Rico. After a few days enjoying the capital of San Juan, we hired a car and motored south through mountainous area for 90 minutes to the other coast. We wanted to see the city of Ponce, the island's second largest. Ponce recently celebrated the tricentennial of its first settlement. TOURISM By the beginning of the 19th century, Ponce as a commercial port was a strong rival for San Juan on the 3500-square-mile island. Ongoing revitalization of Ponce's historic district will soon make the city also rival San Juan as a magnet for tourists, said our guide. Horse-drawn carriages and gas lamps enhance its streets, while phone and electrical wires are being transferred underground. Pink marble- bordered sidewalks are proposed. Those pretty gas lamps were imported from England at a high cost of $3500 each! During its heyday as a hub of the island's sugarcane, rum and shipping industries, Ponce was called the pearl of the south. Its architecture mixes neoclassical, Art Deco and "Ponce Creole" styles. Facelifts will eventually be applied to over 1,000 historic sculptures on streets radiating from the stately main square Plaza Las Delicias (Plaza of Delights.) On the square are unusual laurel trees from India, trimmed into round shapes twice a year by workers swinging huge machetes while perched high on ladders. Such workers usually draw admiring crowds but we unfortunately missed their "act" by a few hours. FIREHOUSE Around the corner is Parque de Bombas, the former firehouse now restored as a museum. The colorful red and black striped building repeats the colors of Ponce's own flag. Inside, you can inspect documents, photographs, antique tools and models of firemen's homes. Long ago, the city could not afford to pay them salaries, so they were given free rent in identical homes all on one street. Ponce's current firemen are paid and housed together in a structure next to the new station. Our guide escorted us inside La Perla Theater where we marveled at the rehearsal of a local dance troupe. Built in 1864, the theater collapsed during the 1918 earthquake and was rebuilt in 1939 with a magnificent acoustic system. Lucky city dwellers and tourists alike can enjoy plays, ballet, jazz, whatever, all for the low cost of $ 5 to $15 a seat. POLICE Inside Casa Alcadia, the police station, you can look up to the second level where prisoners years ago were executed. They were hung with iron collars right in their cells for crimes such as stealing. Death probably was welcome because slow torture preceded it! The modern city is safe for tourists because 24 hours a day policemen patrol on foot, horseback and motorcycles. A teen disco (without alcohol) is popular as is a café next door for their parents. On Vigia Hill above Ponce, you can climb inside a 100-foot-high concrete observation tower in the shape of a cross. Men once watched for incoming ships, friendly or otherwise, from that position. SERRALES RUM Next to that tower, the Serrales Castle is a gorgeous multi-level Spanish Revival hacienda with an elegant open courtyard, leaded glass windows and a carved wooden dining-room ceiling. The city in 1986 bought the former home of Juan Serrales, founder of the company which makes DonQ and other rums, and converted it into a museum. You can watch there a short film in Spanish describing sugar/rum production, and ask your guide further questions. Don't miss the Ponce Museum of Art, the largest in the entire Caribbean. Its eight octagonal rooms hold European paintings and sculpture of the last five centuries, especially late Renaissance and Baroque works. The modern building was designed by Edward Durrell Stone, architect also of New York's MMA (Museum of Modern Art.) After exploring Ponce you will agree it deserves to be called "Pearl of the South." For more information, call Puerto Rico Tourism Co. in New York City, 1-800-223-6530 or explore www.prtourism.com.
Just returned from our seventh trip to St. Barths since we first
discovered the island in 1989. The six year lapse since our last trip
('95) has produced many changes. The population is now up to 7,000,
twice as many as '89, and there are more cars on the road which does
create a little congestion now and then. The park at the end of
Gustavia port is nice, as are the new streets with their fancy
design. Before Hurricane Luis hit the island we had stayed one year
at the Flamands Beach Hotel. All that remains today is the shell of
the building which apparently for some reason is not being rebuilt.
We looked in at our old room and it was sad to see it in its present
shape.
Today, next to the old hotel is La Langouste, a new restaurant/small
hotel which used to be in Gustavia but moved to its new location a
few years ago. "Madame" is very amiable and lobster, of course, is a
house favorite. We stayed at the eastern end of the island on a
hillside overlooking La Toiny. Each day we rotated our beachtime to a
different beach. Saline is still my favorite because it is wild and
pristine, and no civilization can be seen from the beach. For those
of you who do not care to get a lot of sun, I'll let you in on a
secret. At the far eastern end of Saline there is a rock overhang
which produces shade until about 11:00 AM. If you get there early as
we did everyday (7:30 AM), it will be yours. The same applies to the
East end of Gouvenouer. Of course if you have a beach umbrella
(rarely seen), all of this advice is redundant.
You won't get a bad meal on St. Barths. With the exchange rate around
7ff to the dollar, food was reasonable. I had a terrific rack of lamb
at Maya's for about $30 which is what you may expect to pay in NY or
S.F. Everyone who goes to St. Barths always has their favorite
restaurants. We usually go to what we consider the "value"
restaurants. Don't miss Le Rivage for lunch, especially the Chef's
Salad. In Gustavia, Le Repaire has always been a good value. One day
we stopped for lunch and I had mahimahi in a buerre blanc sauce that
was outstanding. Of the new restaurants, we liked Massai in Lorient.
The splurge restaurants are Francois Plantation, Carl Gustav, Le
Gaiic and Le Sapotellier where all the little extras can be found
(i.e., service and presentation). As we have done before, we splurged
at Le Gaiic on our last night and were not disappointed. The ambiance
there is memorable.
For those of you who may want to visit St. Barths in the future, here
is my short list of DONT'S:
Unless you speak fluent French, leave your high school or Steve
Martin French at home. Almost all of the people you will be in
contact with speak English.
Don't bother to ask for a table in the no-smoking section.
Don't bother to ask the person at the next table if he/she would mind
putting out their cigarette unless you want to create an
international incident. Remember, you are in someone else's country
and the French do smoke up a storm.
Don't ask your server to remove a cat or dog from a restaurant. The
French like cats and dogs.
Don't drink and drive. The roads are difficult to traverse entirely
sober let alone under the influence. At night, it is even more
difficult. During our stay there were two fatal motorbike accidents.
One took the life of a mother while she walked down the road with her
two children. She was struck by an intoxicated motorcyclist who has
been charged with involuntary manslaughter. Pulling something like
that could really ruin your vacation bigtime.
Don't try and drive like the French. They have enough accidents on
the scoreboard and do not need any more.
Don't embarrass yourself or others by bathing au naturale at beaches
other than Saline or Gouvenour. Currently, the aforementioned are the
only two beaches that are unofficially clothes-optional.
And please, don't order a "Coke" with dinner. If you've got enough
cash to go to St. Barths, for crying out loud, buy a bottle of wine
(or even a glass).
And above all, if you are American be proud of that fact, but don't
act like an idiot. I have seen Americans at their worst while
traveling and it is embarrassing
I almost forgot to add something about the airport at St. Martin
(Juliana). It is still a zoo but if you know the ropes in advance you
can pass through without too much trouble. After you land and go
through customs, pick up your bags and go to whatever airline is
taking you to St. Barths. With passport and boarding pass in hand, go
to the brown booth for a departure tax waiver. All of these documents
will get you into the boarding area when passing through security.
The same applies on your return trip if you are passing through.
My wife and 4 young kids flew into St. Croix on a very small commuter plane from San Juan in July of 1990. We had reserved a 2 bedroom cottage at the Sprat Hall Plantation. According to literature we had read it sounded like an ideal place for our family - Mansion built in the 1600's, antiques, walk down the hill to a private beach, wonderful host, and near the quaint town of Frederiksted. Upon arrival at the Sprat Hall Plantation we met the owner, Joyce Hurd. An elderly woman who had been born in the mansion moved away in her youth, and then bought the place a half century later to convert into a vacation paradise. She was very sweet and friendly. She showed us to our cottage which was very private, but in a state of ill- repair (kind of like a 50's house trailer), and not up to the cleanliness standards of even a Motel 6. There really wasn't any security so my wife felt a little nervous. The walk to the beach turned out to be a walk down to a road, cross the road and to a beach that had been washed away by hurricane George in '98. Frederiksted was completely dead. We couldn't find an open restaurant - we ended up eating the first night at the only open place we could find - Kentucky Fried Chicken. On our way out we had to turn down a beggar who wanted a handout. We've been to St. Thomas, St. John, and Jamaica and always found the natives to be very friendly and of a "take it easy" demeanor. This was not the case in St. Croix. There's a few large processing plants (Alcoa and an Oil Company) that provide an abundance of jobs that I suspect pay more than hotels and restaurants. I suspect the St. Croix natives don't feel so dependent on tourism as some of the other islands, and so they don't put on the happy face. One morning we went into a "Pastry Hut" on Queen Anne's highway near Frederiksted. Most all of the clientele were natives and the attendants behind the counter were quite rude and impatient. One fellow came in with a tee shirt that said "Slavery - African Holocaust." It's certainly very sad and abhorrent that Africans were captured and sold to work on the sugar plantations of St. Croix back in the 1700/1800's. Being faced with the lingering resentment was uncomfortable. After one night at the Sprat Hall Plantation, we tried to move up to the Carambola resort, which looked like a wonderful place tucked into a beautiful cove on the north shore. Unfortunately it was completely booked, so we ended up at the nearby "Waves at Cane Bay". It was a small place on par with a Motel 6, except with a kitchen and the whole north wall was sliding glass doors looking out at nothing but the ocean who's wave's crashed against the rocks and natural saltwater swimming pool just 10 feet from our deck. We felt it was a really good deal at $70 a night, although not elegant like Carambola. They had a dive shop and the owner was really nice. Nearby was Cane beach. A fairly nice beach that got very crowded the day the cruise ship pulled into Frederiksted. We had really delicious grilled hamburgers and beer at the Boz Beach Bar and Grill which looks over Cane Bay. We also ate at Off the Wall Beach Bar and Grill, which was very reasonably priced and outdoors right on the beach next to Cane Bay. We visited Christiansted which was neat - a lot of historical places, a fort, and a couple old picturesque churches. The rain forest on the west end of the island was lush and pretty. We were glad we went to St. Croix, but I wouldn't go again.
TRIP MARCH 2001 My wife and I spent a week in St Lucia in March. This was our fifth vacation in the Caribbean - we have previously been to Antigua, Grenada, Tobago and Barbados. Our last visit - Barbados - was our least favorite due to the commercialism and built-up nature of the island, so this time we decided to find something more unspoilt. My research indicated that the majority of the tourists who visit St Lucia go to the Northwest of the island, near the capital Castries, and this was where most of the development has been. However, the most interesting area of the island appeared to be around Soufriere and the Pitons - two peaks that rise out of the sea. In this region there are several relatively exclusive resorts and a selection of smaller places to stay. As we like to be on the beach, our choice narrowed and we settled on the Hummingbird Beach Resort, on the outskirts of Soufriere town. We were not disappointed. The main airport is at Vieux Fort, in the very South of St Lucia. We had arranged to hire a car, and our drive to Soufriere took a little over one hour on the tortuous road which pretty much encircles the island. Your first view of Soufriere is when you round a bend, several hundred feet above sea level, and there is the bay and the town below. We found the Hummingbird at the far end of town. The "resort" consists of a main bar/restaurant building with a couple of basic guest rooms, and two further buildings comprising eight en- suite rooms with balconies, most having splendid views of the bay and the "Petit Piton". The compact grounds include a small swimming pool and sundeck and a beach bar. The rooms are built in Caribbean style, with lots of Jalousie (louvered) windows to allow the breeze to circulate. There are ceiling fans and mosquito nets. A nice touch was the fresh petals which the maids spread around the room each day. The beach at Soufriere is nothing to write home about, but it is pleasant enough, and almost deserted except at weekends when the locals come out to play. The "black" volcanic sand shelves fairly steeply, but the sea is calm and we enjoyed swimming there. Each evening several yachts take advantage of some strategically-placed palm trees to anchor for the night, local boat-boys taking a stern- line to the palms to stop the boats swinging on their moorings. Farther along the beach the local fishing boats are drawn up under the trees. They mostly seem to fish at night, their return being heralded by much dog-barking and cock-crowing! We arrived at the Hummingbird in time for happy hour at the Beach Bar followed by dinner. Normally one of the pleasures of a holiday for us is seeking out different places to dine, but thinking the choice might be limited around Soufriere we had arranged to stay on MAP plan (breakfast, afternoon tea and dinner) and we didn't regret our decision. There was a reasonable selection on the dinner menu each day, including plenty of fresh fish, and all the meals were well prepared. The service was friendly, though occasionally a little slow if there were a lot of visiting "yachties". Soufriere itself doesn't go out of its way to pander to tourists. There are a couple of inexpensive restaurants in town, but for finer dining there are several alternatives nearby including the expensive Jalousie Hilton, Ladera Resort and Anse Chastanet Resort as well as some less pretentious places in the hills either side of town. Tourists do pass through the town each day, however, having been disgorged by several large catamarans which sail down from Castries or Rodney Bay. They are swept into taxis and taken to see the local sights - Sulphur Springs (the steaming remains of St Lucia's volcanic past), the Botanical Gardens and Morne Coubaril Estate - where you can see how coconuts and cocoa beans are processed into copra and chocolate. These are all places worth visiting, but it is best to make your trip early or late to avoid the crowds. You can also take a trip up into the Rain Forest and visit several mineral springs and waterfalls. For tee-shirts and other tourist shopping you have to head North. We drove up one morning, past Marigot Bay, dominated by its marina, to Castries, which is often dominated by cruise-ships. I can't tell you about the shopping here because we couldn't find anywhere to park(!), but I understand there is the typical Caribbean Duty Free selection. We continued on past Castries to Rodney Bay, where several of the island's main beach hotels are situated. This is the sort of Caribbean resort we like to avoid - full of package-tour sunseekers from North America and Europe. There is a long white-sand beach, a number of restaurants to choose from and a shopping mall, but the countryside is scrubby, unlike the lushly forested mountain slopes further south. Even further North is a Golf Club and an associated luxury housing development. By common consent the best beach on the island is Anse Chastanet. It is reached by a very rough two-mile road from Soufriere, but once you get there you find a very pretty bay backed by palm trees and with the excellent facilities of the Anse Chastanet Resort if you get hungry or thirsty. There is also a Dive School. Sunshades and loungers are (according to the signs) reserved for hotel residents, but if you go after the sun has lost some of its severity you won't need the former, and the sand is quite soft! There are many great views to be enjoyed around the St Lucia, due to its mountainous terrain. You need to keep your wits about you when driving, as the roads are windy and steep, but you will find a number of "lay-bys" where you can stop and take in the vistas. For a memorable sunset drink, try the Ladera Resort perched high up on a ridge between the Pitons.
April in Paris? No…John and I prefer April in the French West Indies, St. Martin to be exact. We made our eighth trip there this spring and turned it into a visit not just to one island but to three islands, each different from the others. The vacation began with the usual American flights with the usual connection in San Juan. For the most part, the journey was uneventful and departures on time. As we flew closer and closer to SXM, the clouds became thicker and grayer. Rather than making a direct approach to Juliana, we found ourselves in a holding pattern for some 20 minutes. At first, I believed this delay to be caused by the weather, but once we were on the ground, I realized we had most likely been waiting for the Air France flight to land. Of course, that big 747 got priority over our little American Eagle turbo-prop! We stepped off the plane into a nasty, chilly drizzle. Wait a minute, this is what I left Chicago to escape! “Don’t forget,” I kept telling myself, “a rainy day in SXM beats any kind of day in the office.” However, this set the tone for a wetter visit to the island than we had experienced in some time, and certainly the wettest for this normally dry time of the year. Up until our arrival, SXM had been experiencing a drought, so the moisture was much needed, but the island welcomed the rain a lot more than we did! We hurried to immigration to find ourselves shoulder-to-shoulder with the 500 or so passengers who had just come off the 747. American had failed to pass out immigration forms on board and no one in SXM seemed to have any on hand. Finally, a supply of forms appeared and by the time we got ours filled out, the immigration lines had abated. Though the lines had abated, the rain had not! We got to the Hertz office in the middle of a downpour. The car they gave us this time was unique compared to anything we’ve rented before: a Daihatsu Terios…sort of like a small minivan, but not quite. Because it was different than what he’s used to driving, John wanted to find a parking lot to familiarize himself with the handling, especially with it raining so hard. The closest lot I could think of was at the Caravanserai Hotel next to Sunset Beach Bar, so off we went. Of course, we had to stop for a drink at Sunset and there we ran into our friends Sari and Jeff (a.k.a. Whalema). We hadn’t explicitly planned to meet them there, but somehow I think it was just instinct! Our first night on the island John and I stayed at the Pavilion Beach Hotel in Grand Case. What a little gem this place is! It’s very small, only 13 rooms, with the intimate feel of a bed and breakfast. The room itself is rather basic, but had an outdoor, covered kitchen measuring about12x12 feet square, adjoined by a landscaped private patio with 2 cushioned lounge chairs. Beyond the patio are simply the sand and the sea. Continental breakfast is included and all for only about $100 a night, thanks to the current favorable exchange rate. If I was looking for a place to stay an extended period of time and write a novel or just be a bum, I think Pavilion Beach would be the place. This little inn is quiet and comfortable, and at the same time felt both secluded and convenient to everything in Grand Case. The following day it was time to move into our home for the next week, a villa on Baie Rouge called La Mission, which we were sharing with the Whalemas and others. Wow, what a property! For our party of seven (three couples and one single) the home had 4 bedrooms with en suite bathrooms; a spacious living room/dining room; fully equipped kitchen and all the extras to make a beach vacation comfortable: TV and stereo, private pool that went from zero depth to 8 feet, a spacious deck with plenty of lounge chairs, gazebo, beautifully landscaped grounds, housekeeper, caretaker and gated security. And it was all directly on the beach, with the surf crashing just yards from the edge of the deck. So how do I get rich enough to buy my own house like this??? The “win the Lotto” strategy just isn’t working! If there’s a downside to staying in a villa, it’s that if “sand gravity” is a strong force, “villa gravity” is even worse. A couple of days, we didn’t even leave the villa till dinnertime. On the one hand, that was very relaxing, but I think John got a little antsy that we weren’t going over to Orient Beach or other places around the island. In fact, we only made it over to Orient once the whole week and even then not till late in the day. It felt strange to spend nine days on SXM without spending a good portion of them at Orient! That’s not to say we never got off our duffs at all. During the course of the week, we visited the zoo, where I handed over a couple of boxes of toner and supplies for their office copier. These supplies had been generously donated by Arlington Sales, one of the vendors with which my employer works. Hats off to Arlington for their support of the zoo! We also visited Loterie Farms, having much curiosity about the place after seeing a segment about it on a Travel Channel show. The primary activity here is hiking mountain trails up Pic Paradis. The proprietor, BJ Welch, took one look at us and advised us to try the easier-level hike. Let me tell you, it was anything but easy! The brochure had said to “be prepared for mild exercise.” I guess I’m even more out-of-shape than I thought! Still, it was worth every drop of sweat because the view from the top of the trail was gorgeous and at the end, I really felt like I had accomplished something. After our mountain-climbing adventure, we went to The Old House, located between Orient and Orleans. This is an old home that dates back to the Napoleonic era. The owner, a direct descendant of the original family, is there to share a little slice of history about the area and about the evolution of rum. Several artifacts are on display as well. Another day, we boarded the ferry out of Marigot for a day trip to Anguilla. This was as much about exploring another beach on another island as it was about giving myself a sense of closure after reading the Blanchard’s book “A Trip to the Beach”. Art met reality as we were waiting to board the ferry. John struck up a conversation with one of the other passengers, who happened to be an Anguillan taxi driver and arranged for him to be our driver. Turns out the driver was none other than Nell, one of the characters in the Blanchard’s book! Once on Anguilla, I was struck by how completely different it is from SXM. In some ways, it seems almost desolate…flat and wind-blown with a few houses, a few businesses, a few hotels. It’s a great day trip, but seems a little too peaceful and quiet for a city lover like me. As much of a pain in the neck Marigot’s traffic and Philipsburg’s crowds can be, I truly appreciate that there is so much activity available on SXM. Our Anguillan destination was Shoal Bay – perhaps one of the most beautiful and powder-soft beaches in the world, with wonderful close- to-shore snorkeling in a clear, calm bay. A snack bar called Elodia’s takes care of all your needs for food and drink. Down the beach is the famous Uncle Ernie’s, but Elodia’s had everything we needed, including some of the best cole slaw I’ve ever had, anywhere. We made arrangements with Nell to pick us up four hours later…and before we knew it, there he was, beeping the horn to take us back to the ferry. Nell had taken care of getting our return tickets and clearing us through the exit process so all we had to do was board the boat. He was a good indication of the gracious nature of the Anguillan people. Another highlight of the week was the TTOL / AOL get-together at Sunset Beach Bar. It was a chance to reacquaint ourselves with some old friends and meet several new faces, travelers and locals alike. Afterwards, some of us went over to Jack’s (MrSXM) place at Pelican to cook ribs and chicken and watch some good ol’ American TV. Dinners – as always – are very enjoyable on SXM, and this trip we managed some return visits to old favorites, as well as trying some new places: Sabastiano’s – good, but expensive for pasta. Managed to snag a seaside table when one of the couples moved because they said it was too cold by the window. I thought the light breeze felt awfully good! Pumpkin soup was the hit of my meal and gets me hungry just thinking about it. Talk of the Town – good, homemade food at low, low prices (so maybe that’s why it’s called a lo-lo). Thai Garden – my meal wasn’t as flavorful as the Thai food I’m accustomed to at home, but most everyone else in the party seemed to enjoy theirs. Appetizers were good, but in general I would say this restaurant can’t compete with the depth and quality of stateside Thai restaurants. Restaurant du Soleil – one of our perennial favorites: classic French dishes with the twist of Caribbean spicing; excellent as always. Staff is very friendly and would make this place shine even if the cuisine didn’t. La Main en la Pate – good Parisian-style pizza; thumbs up for an inexpensive meal in the Marigot Marina. Kakao – Vietnamese and French menu: lots of interesting and flavorful choices at reasonable prices. Nice setting right on Orient Beach. Sol E Luna – My favorite restaurant on the island; rather expensive, but the atmosphere makes it entirely worth it. We left the table groaning from the quantity of food…it’s so good we had to eat every bite! Our dinner at Sol E Luna really was our farewell dinner because the next day it was time to leave SXM. But for John and myself, it was simply time to move on to another island: after our week in the villa, we spent two nights in San Juan. I had always wanted a closer look at this city than just the view from the plane and I wasn’t disappointed. San Juan surprised me, pleasantly, in how clean it is, how friendly the people are and in how much there is to see and do. If Puerto Rico has one failing, it’s how expensive it can be to travel there. Even though we were going off-season, my initial research only found hotels that started at about $285 a night. I persisted, and in the end found a room at the Tanama Princess Comfort Inn in the Condado district for $119 a night. I wouldn’t want to stay in this small, view-less room for a full week, but for the amount of time we spent in the room over our two nights, it was perfect. Continental breakfast was also included. I was delighted to discover it was right across the street from Ajili Mojili, a restaurant I really wanted to try. This eatery serves Puerto Rican cuisine with a modern twist to the preparation and spicing. John, as a chef, was inspired and has been experimenting with his own versions of what we ate ever since our return home. Staying in the Condado area proved to be very convenient overall. Also across the street was a city bus stop, where for 25 cents you can catch a bus to the entrance of Old San Juan, right at the cruise ship pier. From there, you can hop on a free trolley to get all around the Old San Juan area. We took the trolley to El Morro, the 16th century fortress that helped the Spanish defend their emerald isle from other conquerors. It gave us quite a sense of history, along with some great photo opportunities! >>From the fort, we walked all around the old city, exploring shops, bars, classic hotels like El Convento and a couple of hospitality houses hosted by the rum producers. Along the waterfront, we came upon “La Rumba”, a tour and party boat that was recruiting passengers to take the sunset cruise. For $12, this was a good opportunity to hear some of the background and history of the city and to see the fortress and other buildings from a different angle. That evening, we dined at La Isla Bonita, a traditional Puerto Rican restaurant next to the beautiful Wyndham Hotel. Our whirlwind visit to Puerto Rico served to just whet my appetite for more. Someday, we would like to return and visit Ponce, El Yunque and more of the dynamic city of San Juan. Perhaps someday I’ll be able to live out my dream of spending leisurely months on end in the Caribbean. But for now, it’s back to work, for I must get started on paying for the next trip!
June 19-29,2001 We came to St. Martin from Tortola on June 19 for what has become our annual visit, arriving on a Winair flight with only a handful of people on it, and since we were later than the larger planes from the US and San Juan, no problem with lines at immigration. We had reserved a car with AAA, which has given excellent service and prices in other visits. Alain's representative was waiting for us, and we were on our way to Grand Case Beach Club with just a short stop at the Cole Bay food center for a few things. The new security gates and surveillance cameras at GCBC made quite a contrast to our hotel on Tortola, where there were no locks on the doors. Our later experience further emphasized the difference between these islands. To get the bad things out of the way, on our first night we experienced directly some of the crime that others have complained of from time to time. We didn't feel like going far to eat the first night, and were walking between L'Amandier and Calmos Café in Grand Case around 8:30 checking menus. As we passed a couple of people by a parked car, one of them grabbed a hand purse my wife was carrying and took off down an alley to the beach. There were a few dollars in the purse, but no credit cards or other valuables, and no one was hurt. A police car came by just a few minutes later and we flagged it down. They responded quite properly, took descriptions, and when a local said he saw a couple of guys going down the beach took off to try to find them. Of course we didn't expect them to be successful, but they were serious about trying. We did notice a lot of security people on the street during the rest of our stay, but the northern end of the street where this happened tended not to have much activity; it is an area where you need to be more careful than we were. In talking to people, we got the impression that things like this happen in Grand Case from time to time when security gets a little lax and someone comes in to take advantage. Now, having established that crime actually exists on St. Martin, I want to emphasize that this incident did not wreck our vacation, nor will it deter us from returning, and does not make us conclude that St. Martin is more dangerous than most highly touristed areas. It does make us more alert to the fact that a dangling purse coupled with a bit of distraction is an invitation. We had dinner the first night at Calmos Cafe. They were very solicitous about our experience, and the food very good of its type for a reasonable cost. Wednesday morning went to Marigot to look for a replacement for my wife's purse, then to Food Center and Match for supplies for lunches, snacks, sodas, etc.; otherwise stayed at the Grand Case beach. Dinner at Bistro Nu in Marigot, one of our favorites. Tried kangaroo a substitute for beef and rather tasty at that. Thursday morning was mostly at Grand Case with the afternoon at Orient near Papagayo's. This end of the beach is still holding up, but the jet skis have migrated south of Pedro's and the area up to the Club O sign, which used to be pretty empty, is now full of rental chairs and jet skis. We had heard of the beach erosion in the area of Pedro's, but were surprised at how ugly the beach just above Pedro's has become. Not only is the sand steep and narrow, but the buildings crowded together look pretty ratty. We only glanced at the rest of the beach during this trip; it looked OK further up but the extensive new construction immediately behind the beach is not promising; a local referred to part of it as a housing development. They are well on their way to ruining the beach as we have known it. (Some of us who knew it in the early `80's might say they did that 10 years ago.) I really think that the overbuilding that has ruined the Dutch side for many stay-over visitors is now infecting the Orient area. Dinner was at Poulet D'Orleans. Very local style; tenderest conch that I have ever had, and very good creole fish. A family run place; our wait staff were the 2 sons about 12 years old and their teenage brother. Got to sample their mother's hot pepper and mango preserves. Friday went to the Old House museum, which has been set up and run by a descendent of one of the early families of the area. It is definitely worth a visit by anyone with an interest in history, or in rum. Try to avoid a time when school children are going through. We had lunch at Belle Epoch at Marigot marina, and spent a little time at the Le Galion beach. This is very nice, and attracts families and children. Dinner at Mark's Place. Excellent conch stew for both of us. Not as atmospheric as when he was in Cul de Sac, but in our opinion you can't beat the quality for the price, (at least, the Creole dishes, which is what we always have) and with the way it is now screened from the parking lot, not unpleasant surroundings. Saturday went to Marigot market for some fruit (a large papaya) they have really pushed the produce market out of the way to make room for more Tshirt stands. The afternoon was at Dawn Beach the south end (furthest from Oyster Bay, which was Oyster Pond before it became upscale and became the Radisson) with lunch at Scavengers. This is a nice beach in a quiet area; in my view one of the best places on the island in that respect. We didn't go to the Busby's/Ms. B's end, but almost half of that end of the beach is now covered with white umbrellas from Ms. B's. Judging from the size of the operation, she seems to be taking over. Saturday dinner was at Shiv Sagar, an excellent Indian restaurant in Philipsburg; good vegetarian selections as well as chicken and meat dishes, and the best condiments and nan that we have ever had. We had no problem parking at night on Front Street right across from the restaurant, but you might have trouble further along. We did not go to Philipsburg in the daytime. Although it has been "improved" in recent years, it has lost a lot of its attractions for us as it becomes more and more oriented toward the cruise ship trade. Sunday we hoped to go to Don Carlos for lunch kind of a tradition. However, they were closed some signs of remodeling, but don't know if it will still be Don Carlos. Went to Turtle Pier instead. The afternoon was spent at Orient again. Monday was spent checking out the Ma DouDou factory and some more food shopping, espressos at l'Ile Flottante, the little bakery at the foot of Grand Case, the Grand Case beach, and a beforedinner pastis at La Vie en Rose. Then dinner at Yvette's, another Orleans restaurant with great local foods (another version of stewed conch, kingfish for my wife). Had our annual "fix" of johnny cakes a favorite of my wife's. Tuesday morning was spent at Orient, and when we had enough sun went back to our hotel for lunch, then drove around a bit. Looked at the new cruise ship pier, but you can't go into the facility. Dinner was back at Mark's so my wife could have another conch stew; creole chicken for me was good too. On Wednesday we took the ferry to Anguilla. Rented a car at the ferry dock (the cars you get here are generally pretty beat up, but we have always found them to run well enough). We had lunch at Shoal Bay, not at Uncle Ernie's, which gets all of the publicity, but at Le Beach Bar, which has the advantage that you can park right behind it it is a few yards to the right along the beach. Also went into the Heritage Collection museum that is an interesting and well done collection of Anguillan relics and a survey of the history of the island. Dinner back on St. Martin was at La California. They have Bretonne style crepes that are delicious, as well as more traditional meals. Also a free afterdinner flavored rum. Thursday our last full day, alas. Spent some of the morning on preliminary packing, then went to Orient again. This time had lunch at Papagayo's; quite alright, but a bit expensive for what you get. Dinner was back to Bistro Nu again, this time for their excellent creole plate. Departure on Friday was uneventful. We checked in at American midmorning (no significant line) and had lunch (breakfast) at Rick's on Simpson Bay. The Caribbean French toast with bananas was extremely good. Then turned the car back to AAA. Flight to Kennedy was routine and comfortable; the flight to Albany was the expected hourplus delay, but otherwise no problem, in contrast to our problems getting to Tortola at the beginning of our trip. A few idle comments restaurant prices seemed to be a bit lower than heretofore better exchange rate? The easiest way to the Marigot waterfront is the newish road past the industrial area. Maho is being further built up with a new time share for which they are removing a hill. Roads are generally in good shape, and well signed, but traffic accidents seem to be getting more frequent. And now we are counting down to spring 2002!
The Caribbean paradise of Tobago is the brother-island to Trinidad, long renown for its’ tradition of Carnival, and maintenance of African culture. That includes remnants of African Religions like Yoruba and other cultural aspects that have influenced everything from the Calypso music to Politics on the two island nation. This expose lays out the background and my motivation for doing this type of research. What I wanted to do was draw some connections between African descendant people, such as my grandmother's Gullah ethnic group, (South Carolina Sea Island), with Tobagonians (West Indies) and Senegambian (Western African) people, in a sort of reverse Middle Passage triangle from America to Africa. Sort of connecting the cultural dots that invisibly link us together. What we would call a SANKOFA move. Sankofa is an AKAN word from West Africa, which means, "Looking to the past in order to move forward." In a sense, that's exactly what I have attempted in doing this research study. I wanted to look to this ancient herbal wisdom of the past to see what insights might be gained to help our community treat some of the illnesses we're suffering today. Secondly, another objective of the Study is to create a Student Xchange program that would allow me to take two youth (KAOS Network/USC Film Students) to Tobago to actually shoot the Video Documentary. They would be involved in collecting samples, interviewing respondents, compiling data and footage, etc. This will provide these youth with an opportunity to not only travel outside of the hood, (i.e.- South Central L.A./California/USA), but to also do something constructive with their peers in Tobago. The SANKOFA Study, Ethnobotanical Research Project is a compendium of herbal and plant medicine research that looks at the indigenous use of herbs (bush medicine) on the island of Tobago in the West Indies and intends to make correlations between Tobagonians and the aforementioned groups in the U.S. and Africa. I traveled to Tobago last year to do the initial research for the study, laying the ground work to return to shoot a Video Documentary about the phenomenal information revealed to me during the numerous interviews I conducted while living there (January - June 2000). In terms of the society, it's a small island with a population of 50,000 people. During the six months that I lived there, what I came to see and know about the people and this great wealth of information on medicinal herbs was far beyond anything I had ever expected to obtain. They are a strong, proud people, whom I found to be very generous and courteous. In "Bago", there's a basic harmony and order to life. Tobagonians are also very close to the land, and have owned it for years, so their sense of pride is genuine in all respects. The Folk Medicine ways are stronger in Tobago, than in most areas I've visited in the U.S. because the population is predominantly (97%) African descendant and, the linkages to African ancestry are still very much in tact in many respects. This is also revealed in the transactions with the people, as youth and elder alike greet you as you pass them on the street. If you're lucky, you might even be asked, "Who you belong to? It's much unlike life here in the states, especially those areas that are losing a sense of community, where you're almost afraid to speak to people you pass on the street. I made contact with a wide cross-section of people, from the locals to the highest of Government Officials in the Tobago House of Assembly. On this journey, I went to every possible place I could think of to locate information. I went into the Marketplace, to the Beach, old sugar mills, museums and the bush, to name a few areas where I was able to make contact with Herbal Practitioners and conduct my research. I spoke to everyone I encountered. In addition to Elders; Students and numerous others I met along the road, I interviewed Shamen; Professional Herbal Medicine Practitioners, Rastas; Spiritual Baptists; Health Food Store clients & owners. My hope was to find treatments for some of the bio-genetic illnesses these African descendant herbal healers have a long history of curing, like Sickle Cell or High Blood Pressure. I found out about numerous indigenous herbs; such as, Slippery Elm or Naked Boy as it's known locally. It's an expectorant and works well to ease coughs and sore throats. Then there's Dandelion, also known as, Shado Beni, which is febrifugal and helps sinusitis and other bronchial conditions. Lastly Noni Fruit or Monkey Apple, the common name used for it in Tobago, which has been sited in the use of HIV/AIDS and Cancer. I even did my own experimentation with Noni and it worked. Those were just a few of the more than thirty-five (35) medicinal herbs/plants I catalogued from Tobago. To my surprise, I found people all over Tobago who were willing to spend time with me and give me the information I needed. These are some of my encounters. Interviewing a Rasta man, who's providing Herbal Steambaths at Castara Beach. Meeting with the foremost Herbalist from Trinidad. Buying a book on local Herbal medicine from a sister at a Scarborough Health Food store. Going into the bush with my brethrin in Mt. St George. Interviewing several people who approached me at the Marketplace once they found out what I was doing in Tobago. And lastly, speaking with numerous Healers from throughout the island (from Mason Hall to Palatuvier), who told me about their herbal home remedies. It's amazing to me… Even though, we've been made to believe there's a fine line between mythology and fact, when you see how herbal medicine (bush or folk medicine) has worked here for Centuries, it makes you stop and think twice as to what is true medical science? Is this not a form of scientific medical practice because Africans, and African descendant people throughout the Diaspora have pragmatically worked with it for Millennia? I can recall fond childhood memories of my mother picking peppermint from the yard to make herb tea for us when we had upset stomachs, or my Gullah grandmother teaching me how to tell time from the sun. These ethnic customs are directly traced back to Africa. I want to connect the dots… I'm presently compiling the volumes of data so we can return to Tobago to shoot the Video Documentary. When complete, The SANKOFA Study, Ethnobotanical Research Project will provide a comprehensive Educational Resource, including Hardcopy Data, CD-ROM, Website, and a Coloring Book, that will help to preserve the folklore and provide a much needed database for use by African descendant people of all ages. Our hope is for this resource to be used by Africans from throughout the Diaspora, as well as others interested in the field of Wholistic Medicine and Herbal Healing, in particular. Sufia Giza is a Media Activist from Los Angeles who produces and hosts the popular Wholistic Health oriented Cable TV talkshow, SANKOFA Times TV. She uses TV/Radio as a tool to educate and heal the urban community. Ms. Giza is also a consultant, teaches Spanish and conducts two-week Tobago Herbal Healing Tours. For additional information contact 323-231-2810 or sankofa7@yahoo.com.
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