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Caribbean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 55
May
15, 1995
PLEASE NOTE THE NEXT CARIBBEAN TRAVEL ROUNDUP WILL BE AVAILABLE ON OR ABOUT JULY 15,1995 AS THE CTR IS NOW ON ITS SUMMER SCHEDULE. REGULAR FIRST OF THE MONTH PUBLICATION WILL RESUME ON SEPTEMBER 1, 1995.
CONTENTS FOR MAY 1995
1/ News From The Caribbean
2/ Press Releases
Aruba: De Palm Tours
Hyatt :Camp Hyatt Childrens Programs
Martinique World Wide Web Site
Puerto Rico: Water Shortage
3/Journeys For May 1995
Anguilla: With Kids By Sophia Kulich
Antigua: Sandals by R. Todd Stephens
Aruba By Phyllis Ellafrits
Aruba by Jean Schultz
Aruba by Hettie Maidman
Aruba by Matthew Ingham
Barbados By Tom Leib
BVI by Ginny Noyes
BVI: Bareboat By Robert Lehnes
Cancun by Nancy Hinzmann
Cayman Brac by Paul Tibbetts
Cozumel by Daniel Waskie
Dominica by Jennifer Gold
Jamaica by John Blenkinsop
Jamaica Swept Away by Jerome Pineau
Jamaica: Jamaica Grande by Mark Mondul
Jamaica : Negril by Diane Woodard
Jamaica: Grand Lido by Sophia Kulich
St. Barts by William Bradley
St. Barts by Frank Sullivan
St. Croix by Suzanne Comer
St. Croix by Sheila Burks
St. Kitts by Pat Cake
St. Lucia: Rendezvous Resort by Gary Babaluk
St. Martin by Gerry Brennen
St. Martin by Peter Atwood
1/ NEWS FROM THE REGION
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Antigua
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A task force has been set up to see what can be done about attacks on foreign visitors. A British man and his wife were attack last week. However, a British travel magazine interviewed by the BBC says that the Caribbean ranks average in crime. Holland and Belgium rank very high in safety for example.
St. Lucia
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Significant demonstrations took place in Castries on May 10 and 11 protesting pay policies of the government towards public sector employees. On May 11 a large number of people protested through he streets of Castries. They joined banana industry workers who have been on strike since May 7. This coincided with the St. Lucia Jazz Festival. Police had to man the customs booths in place of the normal contingent of customs officers.
In addition the county has been hit with a major political scandal regarding the possible diversion of United Nations funds for political purposes over the last few years.
2/ PRESS RELEASES
Aruba: De Palm Tours
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Barbara Beane of De Palm faxed these recent developments at De Palm Tours.
Recently De Palm Tours has acquired 5 beautiful new Volvo buses which now brings their transportation system to well over a thousand seats. A state of the art stereo system allows our informative tour guide to explain the many interesting and picturesque points of Aruba. De Palm Car rental, which operates the Hertz franchise, added over 50 new vehicles to its fleet, ranging from jeeps to luxury sedans. Limousine transfer services are offered by luxurious stretch Lincoln Continental Limousines.
Always looking for avenues to offer complete and well rounded choices for our island visitors, De Palm Tours recently took over the operations of Steamboat Buffet restaurant. This new venture will add another dimension to our already extensive product line. The Steamboat Buffet is the only restaurant that offers Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner in addition to catering to special events.
Hyatt: Camp Hyatt
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Activities involving the family and preserving the environment are the focus of the latest expansion at Hyatt's Caribbean resorts and its award winning children's program Cap Hyatt.
The supervised activities are for children 3 to 12 and the kids can tour lush tropical gardens to learn about nature, plant trees, visit a turtle farm , go rock hunting and observe underwater marine life. In addition Camp Hyatt offers a taste of each destination as part of their program.
Special Camp Hyatt menus feature such favorites as pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs and chips etc. Prices range from $3 per platter and children's half portions are available at every restaurant.
Specific Locations:
Location: Hyatt Regency Ceromar Beach and Resort , Puerto Rico Year Round:
Fees: Day Session: (9-4pm) $40
Night Session: (6-10pm) $28
Location: Hyatt Regency St. John
Daily Year Round:
Fees: Day Session: (9:15am -4pm) $35 including lunch
Night Session: (6-10pm) $25 including lunch
Location: Hyatt Regency Grand Cayman
Daily during Christmas, 3/11-20, 4/1-5/15 and on weekends the rest of the year Fees: Day Session: (9am -4pm) $43.75
Night Session is free except New Years Eve.
Location: Hyatt Regency Aruba Resort and casino
Daily on Presidents Week, Carnival week, Easter, 7/1-9/9, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's eve. Weekends the rest of the year Fees: Day Session: $40 including meals Half Day: $20
Martinique World Wide Web Site
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On may 13 a press release arrived from the Martinique Promotion Bureau announcing a new WWW site for Martinique. They listed http://www.nyo.com/martinique as the new site. Your editor tried it a number of times with no luck. I then e-mailed them at an address also provided in the news release ( martinique@nyo.com) requesting info about the WWW site. There has been no response to date. Interested readers might try this address from time to time to see if it becomes active.
Puerto Rico: Water Shortage
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From the Puerto Rico Tourism Company
The operation of tourist hotels and the comfort of the their guests should not be affected by impending water restrictions in certain areas of Puerto Rico, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company announced today.
"Our experience dealing with last year's water shortage shows that we can cope with this year's situation", said Luis Fortuno, Executive Director of the PRTC. "There should be no meaningful inconvenience to travelers visiting Puerto Rico this year." The government has announced certain restrictions will go into effect shortly to deal with the drought, which is general throughout the Caribbean area. Beginning May 9th, the San Juan area water will be turned off 12 hours every second day.
However, water in the hotels will not be turned off at any time. Many hotels have their own wells and or cisterns for water supplies. Last year hotels continued operating with no interruption of water supplies to guests, and in the end tourist travel to Puerto Rico set a new record in 1994.
"We still look forward to breaking that record this year", said Fortuno. The industry] has great plan and sweepstakes promotions travel agents to promote an exciting summer"
Restaurant in the tourist area will have an uninterrupted supply of water.
To show its confidence in the ability of the tourist industry to meet tourists' needs, the Puerto Rico Hotel Association has announced that any guest who is dissatisfied by a lack of water in the hotel will be given a 100 percent refund.
3/ JOURNEYS FOR MAY 1995
Anguilla: With Kids By Sophia Kulich
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We had a great time there. We flew to SXM non-stop from JFK. From SXM we flew a little plane - Tyden air. It takes 6 minutes. We did it first time and it was fun.
We stayed at Blue Water apts on Shoal Bay West. It is private secluded, long beach which is shared by Blue Waters, CoveCastles, Chuck Norris house and Paradise cafe. The most number of people on the beach was about 10. The apartments are right on the beach. Some parts of the beach is coral, and it is good for snorkelling, and other parts have a fine sand and it is good for swimming. Only 1 day there was seaweed.
Blue Water Apts turned out to be much more than expected. For 4 of us (parents and 2 kids 17,8) we had 2 huge bedrooms and bathrooms, living room, kitchen and 2 big balconies where we ate. We were on second floor, but I liked first floor better. You can come out right from your patio on the beach, from second floor you have to walk around.
There were about half of the guests with kids with some as little as 1 year old. I have to tell you, as a Travel Agent myself I would not recommend it for families looking for kids organized activities, game rooms, group babysitting, etc. They would be better of at Club Med, Boscobel, or Sapphire beach or wherever. It is not full service resort. If you can entertain your kids yourselves or they are happy with building sandcastles on the beautiful beach, and snorkel, you would love it.
It is safe place and we let kids hang around on the beach by themselves. We've been to many islands and I would not do it anywhere else in the islands or US while on vacation. Island is safe, people are friendly and it is perfect island for family to explore. We stopped locking the car or apartment very soon, and at the end the car rental company told us to leave the car at the airport with keys in it!!!
However, it is very laid back and, when our hungry teenager was eager for food, he was disappointed couple of times that he had to wait. Us, we used to laid back Caribbean style of life and go with the flow. BlueWaters are not fancy.
They do have maid service 6 times a week (not on Sunday). But they do not change sheets, only towels including beach towels daily. No fancy toiletries, just 1 bar ivory soap per bathroom. Bring your own shampoo, lotion. If you want twice a day maid service, toiletries, next door Covecastles have it, but they are more expensive. Per my request, the owner did initial shopping for me, so we were able to relax on the beach after arrival. And the rental car was delivered the first day to the resort and we were ready to start our adventure.
First lesson we learned - on this little island in decent restaurants you need a reservation. After driving in the dark on wrong side (for us) in unfamiliar roads, we finally tried resort Coccoloba, where we were admitted and had West Indies buffet. Later every day the kids were reminding me: Did you make reservations?
As we knew before, the island is not pretty and it was dry season, but it is compensated by spectacular beaches. I was somewhat concerned about fancy restaurants if we would be comfortable with kids there. When I made reservations, they welcomed kids, more, on my question if there anything litlle picking eater would eat, even fancy restaurants like Mango's and Blanchards and others, offered cook a meal especially for him - simple grilled chicken or pizza in Paradise Cafe (which was not on the menu). We appreciated it.
The prettiest was Shoal Bay East, but it was more commercial, less shade and crowded (by Anguilla standards - about 40 people on busy day). Cap Juluca and Casablanca had nice private beaches. Sandy Ground has a nice picturesque beach which reminds me very much Magen Bay in St. Thomas, but there are many boats there which leaves not much space for swimmers. But views are spectacular there, you can see Sandy Island and they take you on a boat for there for lunch and snorkeling. We also watched fisherman showing off huge fish for Johno's dinner. It is very nice little island unhurried village. Island harbor was nice too with a view of Scilly Cay. But, of course, most of our beach time was spent on our Shoal Bay West since it was closer - right from the door (grin)and quiet.
All our days were pretty much the same - we walked on the beach before breakfast while kids still slept. After breakfast we went on the beach, then rested before lunch, drove somewhere for lunch, (sometimes with kids, sometimes ourselves) did some shopping too, returned to the apartment, rested, beach again and dinner in the evening. Our 8 year old son snorkeled most of the time.
If you are more active, you can take boat ride to different beaches, or explore Anguilla on horseback, or visit Museum in Valey or Arawak resort. Or, take a ferry to SXM. We toyed with latest idea, but then our neighbors at resort went there. They came back tired and reported that they rented a car, got stuck on the traffic to Orient beach, told us how many tourists from cruise ships went there and how crowded it was at 5pm, so we decided against it. Originally we were thinking about staying at SXM but now I am glad that we chose so laid back Anguilla.
Now, our favorite activity: eating!!!
Restaurants are top notch. Expensive, too. All Breakfasts we had at apartment. We generally enjoyed dinners. Some lunches we had were not impressive and the menu was limited. Plus, we almost always were alone for lunch at restaurant - around 1pm. Don't know why.
Lunches: Smitty - to sample local culture. This was not what we expected. Lunch was Ok, lobster was not that big, and ribs did not have much meat. I had crawfish and it was good.
Unfortunately, our peaceful lunch was interrupted by one local who was either drunk or on drugs. He did not want to leave and bothered us and Smitty's waiters. They tried to get him out, but no avail. He showed a pack of US $100 bills. Kids got scared. That was an introduction to Anguilla! That was the only one nut we met in Anguilla. All people there were courteous and friendly and nice to kids.
Lunches:
Smitty was $60 for 4. Please note that we usually do not drink, except glass of wine for dinner, so with drinks would be more.. Couple of days we had lunch at apt - did shopping at Vista - gourmet market - real European butter which I miss here in US. We bought baguettes and pastries in Le Bon Pain bakery, and once had take-out food at Fat Cat Gourmet. Ferryboat Inn - was really strange. We came at 1pm. Nobody was there. Finally a lady came out and asked what do we want, we said - lunch, and if they serve it. She said it depends what we want. We looked at the menu which looked quite impressive for lunch and wanted to order. She said it will take a while, but hamburgers will be faster. We ordered hamburgers and I had grilled snapper. She did not really look like waitress. She left for the kitchen and we did not see her for a long time. She did brought us cokes before that.
Our teenager complained that McD burgers are cheaper and faster. Then the other guy came looking like an owner and started screaming at her in the kitchen. We did got served and the meal was good, but we waited for a loooong time and there nobody else was in the restaurant. So we wondered if we are at the right place and time..Left $60 for 3 hamburgers, 1 snapper and cokes. Uncle Ernie - went there with George only, without kids. It was the best lunch. The lady said it will take 30 min. So, we swam and waited with cokes for the food. She sat most of the time, sometimes turning food over. Looks like she was not doing much, but the snapper and ribs and chicken were the best! $20
La Fontana - also were there alone at 1pm. It was nice and quiet. I hoped for the Italian Trattoria food, but for lunch - like everywhere else menu was rather limited - snapper, hamburgers. Had 3 hamburgers. Great homemade bread, and it was so big, that our 8 year old kid could not finish it, and we took it home for his brother to finish. $40 for 3 people.
Maybe we did not go to right places, but I expected lunches to be more creative. Maybe at hotels would be better - and we ate in local places.
Dinners - were highlight of the vacation. As I said, even in the best restaurants kids were welcome and the did special meal for my picky eater. No problem with teenager - he ate everything, including seafood and fish. First night - tried to get to Mango and Covecastles, but did not have reservation. Finally the manager of Covecastles who apologized profusely that they cannot accommodate us, suggested to go to Coccoloba.
We went there and had West Indies buffet. It was good, but again, buffet food - if you can eat a lot... They did not charge for a little kid, but for 3 adults (I realized that now 1 kid became an adult - that means we are getting old (grin) with 2 glasses of wine and 1 beer for our 'adult' son Ed it came up $160. They do include tip in the bill, so do not overpay it. I asked if it was EC dollars, but it turned out to be US (grin). First shock...Then you get used to the prices.
Second night - had dinner on our beach, Paradise Cafe - bistro, very good. They baked pizza especially for Mike, and waitress talked to kids a lot about life in Anguilla. We had excellent rack of lamb and teenager had seafood. After this they ran out of lobster on the island. Forgot what was for appetizer... Total for 4 with 2 glasses of wine, appetizer and dessert - $145. Owner was checking all the time if everything OK.
3rd night - Mango's. George said it was his best meal there - sesame snapper in soy sauce. I had swordfish in some exotic sauce, very good, I think I had lobster cakes for appetizer and George had soup. The grilled chicken Ceasar Salad for Mike and we finished his salad. Ed had crawfish. Again, with wine and appetizer, dessert and non-alcohol daiquiris $165 for 4.
Next - Blanchards. They also grilled chicken for Mike. It was really more exotic, like middleEastern - Caribbean cuisine. It was very good, but not better than Mango's and it turned out to be the most expensive meal - $208 for 2.
Next night the kids begged for the break from gourmet food and we went to Italian-American Arlos. Very nice. Nothing special, but very well prepared good old Italian food. Kids had pizza, which was big and we took it home to finish. I had baked mussels in wine and parmesan cheese - very good, George - cream of vegetable soup and both of us had tortelini Alfredo. Had dinner with garlic bread, too. Total $105 - without wine.
Top of the Palm at LaSirena hotel - very nice, me and Ed had crayfish, George - spicy Mahi Mahi, they had kids menu for Mike. Key Lime tart for desert. Now I remember that we had key lime pie and apple tarts in other places for dessert. They also served for starters a slice of eggplant with tomato and cheese on top - compliments of the chef. $147 without wine.
Last night we went to Pimms. For me, it was the best meal - me and Ed had beef tenderloin with potato leek pancake and onions - only French chefs could make it like this. Heaven! Also, lobster cakes were delicious. George had veal chop. They had quite impressive kids menu and Mike surprised us ordering fruit plate with yogurt. Poor kid got tired of chicken... The fruit plate was huge had bananas, mangos, strawberries, raspberries, cantaloupe, starfruit (not like here in US, but more sweet) and something else. Then he ordered creme brulee, which was delicious, but huge. He started it, I continued and George finished it. It was superb. Now at home, I found out recipe and will try to make it too.. Dinner for 4 without alcohol was $186. I liked it the most, they also had chefs compliments - some kind of soup - very tasty, but I could not figure out what was in there..
I hope I did not get you bored, but I just wanted to give you details. All restaurants - at least where we ate were located on the beach with gorgeous views. But at 7 already was dark.. It was very nice to be able dine outside. All restaurants are casual, George was wearing sneakers and shorts all the time. The only thing - portions were not large, except Pimms. But with appetizer and dessert, it's OK.
Hotels.
I already mentioned about Blue Waters where we stayed. It is very nice property and off-season is a good deal (1br apt is $140, 2 br 160). Since I some clients of mine were waiting for my Anguilla research, I visited some other hotels, but not many. I found out a long ago when trying to inspect too many properties, I would not remember much what and where.. Anyway, here what we found:
Cap Juluca - they gave us a tour of the hotel and we visited 1 luxury room and 3 bedroom private villa. It is definitely on of the best hotels on the island. Not a chain, privately owned by 6 investors - South African, British and Americans. Immaculately maintained. Wonderful beach. All rooms are oceanfront. Not all units have direct access to the beach, though. You have to walk around through the path. Some corner units have private patio for private sunbathing with a shower. The resort is designed with a purpose give a feeling of seclusion and privacy, something kind of sensual. The unit we saw also had second level for sunbathing. 3 Bedroom villa is completely private, with walls and a pool. Huge bathtubs for 2. The drawback of the resort? The price, of course <g>. Luxury room cost from 335 to 575 per night depending on season plus tax, and 3 bedroom villa from 2700 to 3790 per night. Also I found it outrageous that extra twin bed in a room costs extra 75. For the price you are paying it should be included. Another thing - the resort is very much spread out. Either you need a car or you call for a electric car and they drive guests where they have to. Only 3 and 5 bedroom villas come with a jeep.
So, either rent a car which is a plus on this island with great restaurants or you will be on a mercy of a staff who live on island time. <G>. The resort has special plans and programs for sport minded, honeymooners and welcomes families, too. They run kids program.
We had dinner at Pimms, which in my opinion the best restaurant and they had impressive kids menu.
Casablanca - new resort, about 2 years old. They will be still building villas. So far all rooms are luxury rooms, junior suit and 1 bedroom suite. It is all-inclusive and the Garden Luxury rooms are from 250 to 390, Junior suite from 300 to 465, 1 bedroom suite from 350 to 565 per person per night depending on season. They also have breakfast plan only.
This resort is for adults only. They also have day passes for $50 per person where you can eat lunch, have unlimited drinks (the waiters walk to the beach, take orders there) and use all sports and facilities from 10 to 6. Gorgeous huge pool.. Both Cap Juluca and Casablanca have Moorish architecture. Casablanca is owned by Saudi Arabian. He brought Moroccan artist to paint Moroccan design. It is just incredible hand work. You just can't take your eyes away from it. Oceanfront rooms are closest to the beach, but again, no direct access. They have honeymoon special promotion.
Actually, I liked it better than Cap Juluca. It is more compact. And with all-inclusive it is much better deal. No wonder Queen of England preferred <g>. She did had lunch at Cap. Actually, all restaurants the royal couple attended, have their pictures taken and proudly displayed. I highly recommend this place for romantic getaway...
Covecastles - luxury condos on Shoal Bay West, we stayed next to them. Don't have rates at my hand now, all I remember they are expensive. 2 level condos and 3 bedroom beach houses. Gorgeous private beach. No pool, but who needs it? Tennis court, boat instructions. French restaurant on premises. Very secluded and gives you feeling you live in your own house on the beach, not at hotel. Seen some skinny dippers in the morning Hammocks on the terrace. Direct access to the sand from first floor.
On the least expensive side, Fountain beach looked OK, but a little bit tacky. Cute tropical garden but the pool is small and dirty. Did not look at the rooms. Had lunch there. The beach is private, but not that nice as Shoal Bay by Earnies. You would have to walk a while to get to the good sand for swimming.
Had a lunch at Ferryboat Inn. We did not see apartments inside, but the property is very neglected. Beach is small. Don't remember prices now, but I don't recommend it.. Also, restaurant service was kind of strange, even though food was good.
Antigua: Sandals by R. Todd Stephens
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My new wife and I just returned from a 6 day/5 night stay in Sandals Antigua. Before leaving we downloaded all the reviews from Compuserve that we could find. We hope this review may help you decide the location of your next vacation.
A Sandals representative was waiting at the airport when we arrived. She promptly arranged a taxi which was paid by Sandals. We arrived around 5:00PM, and were greeted with cool towels and glasses of champagne while our bags were delivered to our room. The room was air conditioned and complete with a refrigerator stocked full of refreshments and remote control cable television. Our maid cleaned the room once daily provided clean towels three times daily, and turned our bed down nightly.
There were four dining rooms included in the package. Two of these required reservations which can be available well in advance. One of these, the Japanese restaurant, comes highly recommended. The food is satisfactory and the entertainment superb. The main dining room included a wide variety foods. Breakfast and lunch consist of a buffet while dinner is per menu given four or five entree selections. The Monday night Beach party dinner was tremendous! The grill is a small fast food type restaurant and served food during lunch and late at night.
We ventured many water sports and games throughout the day. These included snorkeling where we saw and fed several Barracudas as well as hundreds of tropical fish. We participated in many of the organized games in which we met numerous new friends and won
several souvenir prizes. The daily Power Walks hosted by Dale are highly recommended. We earned points toward prizes and a dollars toward a T-shirt. These walks enabled us to see parts of the island we would not have otherwise ventured. Everyday brought new games to play as well as daily games such as volleyball. The employees who help with games are known as playmakers. Playmaker Patricia is a blast and we enjoyed her company in the many games she hosted. We met many other people with whom we became good friends in such a short time.
There are many bars in the resort including one swim-up type. These open at 10:30 AM and are staffed by eager bartenders very willing to serve any alcohol you will drink. Antiguan residents are very proud of their rum making for often potent beverages. There were also non-alcoholic drinks especially the Daily Special which was a fruity strawberry daiquiri type.
We recommend several tips to make your trip most enjoyable. First is a trip to St. Johns Bay, a street village with a casino and local vendors. We would not have felt comfortable in the streets of Antigua after dark, but the taxis will drop you off right in front of the Mcasino and pick up there also. Second, Sandals recommends that you arrive at the airport two hours before your flight leaves Antigua. We found this quite excessive and it took ten minutes maximum to wait in line and check baggage. Next time we will allow about an hour. Third, make your reservations at least several days ahead for restaurants and water sports so as not to miss any opportunities. The theme parties included formal night, pirate night, toga party, black/white night, carnival night (dress in bright colors) and beach night. Lastly, be ready for total relaxation and to be pampered 100%. A five star resort as far as we are concerned.
Aruba By Phyllis Ellafrits
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Finally got my "stuff" together and thought I would bring the Aruba gang up to date. I returned on March 19th from a two week stay at the Playa Linda. First, for Playa Linda members, the t/s is looking good. Maintenance up to date. New countertops in many units. Gladys said they are putting new furniture in all the units beginning in May (I thought they put new sofas, etc. in last year. Adding some new chi chi's which should help the shade lovers. I prefer to sit under a Palm Tree myself. The resort is sold out so only units available are resale. Prices right now are no bargain. More and more watersport activities moving up to Palm Beach..good for their business...bad for the peace and quiet.
A cab driver told me Ramada resort was to be demolished the week of Mon. Mar. 6th. It was still standing when I left. The cabdriver on my way to airport said it would be demolished week of Mar. 20th. I'll bet it's still standing.
The Marriott is coming along well. Expected to be open April 25th. Good luck! I hope no one has reservations for the 25th. Beta is still rumored to be taken over by Westin. I think I solved the mystery concerning whether it was a Ritz Carlton or Westin. Westin has purchased a large share of the stock of Ritz C. - so looks like it will be a Westin.
I took a tour of Tierra del Sol. The golf course looks great, as does the clubhouse pool and restaurant. Spoke to some people who played golf there. They said it was windy, but fun and that the scenic beauty became a little distracting to their golf swing. A few condos are almost complete. Villas not yet started. Prices range on condos - $247,000 - $297,-000. $7,500 ann. maintenance (taxes and ins and $40,000 to join club with an additional $3,600 annual membership fee. Villas will range from $350,000 up. I felt a little under the weather my first week so I didn't make my usual round of restaurants. I did, however, try George Glaseman's favorite, Pizza Hut. Believe it or not, the Pizza was pretty good. The waiter at LaPaloma felt sorry for me so he brought me a big bowl of freshly made chicken soup. Hit the spot.
The next week I did manage to try "The Flame" (my first visit). Their beef was really good. They have a regular menu and one that is only beef. Prices on the only beef menu is pretty reasonable and the piece of beef you get is very big. Most people left with a doggy bag. Also tried L'Escale at the Sonesta. What a wonderful surprise! It was a little pricey, but the food was wonderful and beautifully presented. The waiters were attentive and the chef came out twice during the meal to check with the customers to see if their food was to their liking.
The island was not as crowded with tourists as during Xmas holidays. What a pleasure! It was probably bad for the hotel business, but we enjoyed the peace and quiet. I didn't need reservations at restaurants, rental cars available on demand, not many people on the beaches, etc.
We had more clouds than normal, hotter temperatures, higher tides. The tides washed up more seaweed and other natural debris, you know, like plastic cups etc. that grow at the bottom of the sea. It was so bad one day that the hotels rented a tractor to come clean the beach of debris. Even the Holiday Inn - and they hardly ever clean their beach. By Sunday, Mar. 19th, the water and beaches were cleared up and there wasn't a sign of the seaweed, etc. The water was the prettiest I've ever seen it. Of course, that was the day I had to leave.
The Island celebrated Flag Day and National Anthem Day so there were parades and other celebrations. On Sunday evening there were to be fireworks and barbecues, etc. I guess it's like our 4th of July.
Again, Holiday Inn slots were generous. However, the Hyatt was kind to friends of mine who won $l,900 on a $25. investment.
Phase One of Divi Village is complete and occupied. I walked through the complex. It really looks good. The resort has been nicely landscaped and the guests I talked to seemed really happy with their investment. They did complain that it took too long to complete. Some people paid their money in 1989 and Phase One was just completed this year. Looks like Phase Two is now under construction and the government has put a hold on Phase Three. I guess that's part of the t/s moratorium. Wish they would have done it at LaCabana before they added all those new buildings.
Speaking of LaCabana - construction is starting alongside the new villas on the Main highway(?) I heard it's going to be a new shopping center. There is a new strip type shopping center up near the highrise hotels "Fiesta Plaza", not much happening there.
Sun Plaza which seems to be pretty active, and a new four story department store/office building under construction downtown.
Houlihans scheduled to open in April. The cabdrivers think it's the prettiest restaurant on the island.
The Hilton Hotel facilities look really good after their renovation. The wind wasn't too strong this week so the sand wasn't kicking up at that end.
For someone looking for a cheap room for a night or two, Stauffers across from the Hyatt is reported to be pretty good. Rooms are not fancy, but the hotel is only one year old and prices are $105. including service charge The all inclusives seem to be popular.
We went down to the Tam. and it was pretty active. Talked to some people who were not on an all inclusive, but were at the Radisson and said they bought a "Dine Around" coupon book. I believe it costs $199 pp and you get a choice of some of the better restaurants. You can order off the regular menu, however the pricier dishes are marked by 2 star and depending on the number of stars determines how much additional you would pay if you wished to order that dish. I should have looked into it to see what restaurants were included. Prices for meals did seem to be higher this year.
I wish I had more to report, however, illness kept me close to home base this time. I did get to visit with a local doctor who was really nice - charged $l5. for the visit and my antibiotics and two other medications cost $24. What's wrong with our healthcare?
Oh yes, did get to the Carnival night at the Playa Linda. The barbecue costs $25. pp which includes the show. The costumes this year were particularly spectacular! Even if you don't go to have the meal, you can still sit at the bar and watch the show which starts about 9 p.m. Well worth it.
I still run into people who complain about the slow service in restaurants...Remember folks, you are not in the U.S. slow down, enjoy! If you are in a hurry, tell you waiter when he takes your order. It usually works.
Aruba by Jean Schultz
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I just returned from another wonderful trip to our favorite island. This was our 5th trip. Everything went super. Flew out of Detroit on Travel Charter. Good flight! No delays. Stayed at our timeshare at the La Cabana. The place was beautiful and soooo nice. .
The weather was great. Had a few more clouds than normal but still got a good tan. Use Aruba suntan lotions, they work really good. I never seem to burn and always get a good tan.
I visited the California lighthouse area. The new restaurant has a super nice view and good food, too. It was quite busy. Workers were building something else around the lighthouse. Not sure what is going up. There is now street lights up to the lighthouse.
The Golf course area is very nice. The clubhouse and pool area are beautiful. The restaurant was open, but we did not eat there. It was neat to see all that green grass amid the rocks and cactus. Makes for nice pictures. Took over 3 hours of video during our week in Aruba. Got some super shots.
The DePalm Island has excellent snorkeling. My husband saw big bright blue fish and lots of other colored fish. Trip is $5.00 for boat ride to island and one drink or $10.00 which included lunch. Good food. Rented a jeep and jeeped the island. Great fun!!
Must do activity. It is the only way to see the real Aruba!
We drove up Jamanota. Scarey, narrow road but great view from the top. Could see Venezuela is the distance. Can see the whole island. Visited Charlie's Bar in San Nichols. They have fixed up the road outside the bar and painted the stores and added some new shops. The area looks much nicer. The bar was busy!
Also visited the Colorado point area and baby beach. Nice natural bridge at the point. Also drove to the caves, Dos PLaya and the sand dunes at Boca Prins. Downtown was nice. New Pizza Hut and Baskin Robbins near Strada shopping area.
Other island news: There is a supermarket now between the High rise hotels and the La Cabana. Good selections. Also new restaurant in same complex. Houlihans Bar and Grill has not opened yet. New York Deli in the Alhambra Bazaar has closed. Dunkin Donuts now near the Costa Linda and Alhambra Casino. La Cabana Casino is expanding - Will be adding more slots and a game room for adults and kids. Construction of new building in town across from the outdoor market.
Restaurant Report:
La Cabana Pool Grill - Good food and drinks. Music and bands on Sat. & Sunday. Sandras - Good ribs and seafood!
El Faro Blanco (Lighthouse) - Italian restaurant with great view and good sandwiches.
Old Canucu House - Excellent. Good service, friendly staff and nice atmosphere. Has no smoking room. Super desserts.
Cheers - Port of Call Mall - nice place for lunch in town. Friendly staff and good burgers.
Pizza Hut - Pizza with Dutch gouda cheese was very good.
Pega Pega Bar - Manchebo Beach Resort - Had the best cheeeseburger. It was smothered in gouda cheese and served with fries. Nice view of the widest beach on the island. Talk of the Town - Excellent menu choices and good service.
Had good meals all week. Aruba has so many nice places to eat. Good ice cream at Lovers and the La Cabana.
We had a wonderful trip and can't wait to return next year. One week is just not long enough. Aruba is the best place in the world. If you have any questions, write us and I'll be glad to help out.
Aruba by Hettie Maidman
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Our first impression of the island was great; in and out of the airport in record time, swiftly transported to La Cabana, and at the pool with sun time left in the day. We did have to change our unit later but that was no big deal.
Our first meal was at Chalet Suisse and it was outstanding. We enjoyed it enough to return one more time later in the week. Papiemento's, Old Cunuco House, La Petite Cafe, and El Gaucho all lived up to our expectations. The best of all was L'Escale in the Sonesta Hotel. It was recommended by a couple we met on the plane and ran into on the island after they had been there. It was expensive, $120.00 for 2 with a couple of drinks, but worth every penny. We're used to expensive dinners since we regularly visit St. Maarten where that is an average price for dinner but, our other meals in Aruba were running about $70.00 with no expense spared. I prepared copious notes about each meal, what we had, atmosphere, etc., but suffice to say that we were happy with each choice for different reasons.
We rented a car, $250.00 for the week and were glad we did. Unlike St. Maarten (SXM), driving was easy, traffic-free and roads well-maintained.
We saw just about everything that we wanted to see except the big natural bridge. We did see the little one near Baby Beach and that was enough for us.
The new golf course was more important to Mike. It looks like the surface of the moon in some places and quite a challenge to a golfer (no shade trees). The pro- shop was beautiful as was the restaurant. Many carts were parked, giving the impression that tee-time was available. It cost $110.00 per round which is "timed" by club officials who monitor how long you spend on each hole. If you're too slow, you will be warned. If you don't speed up, you will be asked to allow others to play through. If that isn't enough, you're evicted!! So much for just "hacking" on that course.
We spent our evenings at the various casinos, best luck in the Royal Cabana. Table games were easy to get to and I loved the .50 roulette. The slots were kind to me also.
In general, we loved the island enough to add one more week of time-share to the portfolio. The price was more than reasonable and the units seem well-maintained. We checked out Costa Linda but the smallest was 2 bdr. The property is beautiful and the beach seemed to be larger
Aruba by Matthew Ingham
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I just got back from a week in Aruba at the Hyatt. This was our second trip. We got to the Hyatt late night. What a place!!! The whole setting is just beautiful. They have three pools, one with a swim up bar. BUT here's some advice. Buy your cokes at a grocery store for the beach and pool. They are $2-3 bucks at the bar, for half a can! In the store, they are 60 cents. The pools are each on a different level, and are connected by a staircase with water in it. There is a waterslide, not all to fast, but something to keep the kids entertained. I went on it a couple times, it's about 35 ft down.
Three restaurants are there.......... Ole-Italian Specialties
Ruines Del Mar-- Steaks and Pasta
Cafe Piccole-- Breakfast and assorted entrees. There are three bars, one swim-up.
The beach is very nice, RED SAIL SPORTS is on-hotel. It has a shop, and watersports activities. Try the Tube Ride, that is one way to wake up in the morning!
The Casino is big, not huge though. Blackjack; craps and roulette are the tables, along with slots and computer poker. There is also a game room at the Hyatt. The beach is very nice.
RESTAURANTS
Houlighans is now open. It is a neat place to eat, with all the signs, flashing posters, etc. The burgers are huge!! Prices are reasonable.
Ruines Del Mar, at the Hyatt has very nice quality steaks, a great Fettchini Alfredo too. Prices Good.
Pizza Hut-- Menu as in the U.S. Try pizza with gouda cheese on it, it's good. Prices ok.
Other good restaurants: Pampiemento (sp?) On the island: Taco Bell, Burg King, McD's
TRANSPORTATION
We rented a car from National. Overall it was worth it. Buses however run between the hotels and Oranjestead and San Nicolas. Avis and Toyota rental cars are overpriced. Budget and National are priced well. They are located at the airport. If you take a tour, DePalm I have heard is nicest.
OTHER HOTELS
Hyatt is the best, and THERE IS NO WAY the Marriot is opening in June. NO WAY. It doesn't look all that special, but it isn't done. The beach in front of it isn't level at all. Americana looks nice, good pool. Playa Linda is second nicest. In that general area is a little shopping area w/ TCBY, SubWay, Developer, Dunkin Donuts too.
The Hyatt is priced well for what you get in return. A Monday beach partyat $15 per person includes dinner, a limbo, a beer drinking contest, a water balloon toss, etc. The people who work at the Hyatt are very nice.
Barbados By Tom Leib
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My wife and I spent two wonderful weeks in Barbados during the last half of April. I have now amassed enough creative energy to take on the task of a Trip Report.
We arrived at the Island and picked up our car at the airport. We use Stoute's car rental. Their prices are comparable to others on the Island (we checked) and they deliver the car at the airport, saving a cab fare. And in a process that surely beats anything Hertz can do, the return goes something like this: "Drive the car into the lot next to the airport, put the keys under the seat, and get on your plane."
Rather than go through each day, I'll just randomly cite some vingettes describing our experiences:
We took two Sunday Morning hikes sponsered by the Bank of Barbados. These are marvelous ways to get to know the Island. The hikes begin at 6:00am (groan), but are worth the effort of getting up and finding the starting place. The first hike was in the area a little east of Speightstown, and the second hike was in the Northern part of Christ Church. There are three groups - fast (don't even think about it), mediuim (about 8-9 miles in three hours) and the slower and much more informative "Stop and Stare" which is led by Dr. Colin Hudson. Colin is truly an Island treasure. He knows everything there is to know about Barbados and studiously prepares for these forays. We owe a great deal to Colin for helping us to understand the local scene.
Easter Sunday afternoon is the National Barbados kite flying contest at the Garrison. The highlight is "big kite" contest. This year the largest entrant was 32 feet by 32 feet. That is some big kite! The team used a truck to try to get up. To qualify the kite must stay in the air for 1 minute after it is no longer being pulled. Alas, the super-kite only lasted 19 seconds. The real adventure is trying to get out of the way when this monster heads for the ground. People were scattering everywhere - it was chaos and lots of fun.
On Easter Monday, the fishing village on the Southern Coast throws a party for the rest of the Island - the Oistens Fish Festival. It starts at 6:00am with a 10k run from downtown Bridgetown (Admiral Nelson's statue) to Oistens. I ran, slowly, and had a good time. Certainly the locals can handle the heat better than I. I wasn't last, but I was certainly closer to that spot than first. I had an intersesting experience on my way to the race. I was driving my moke on the south coast road and was just 1km or so out of Bridgetown when I slowed down for traffic, and, all of a sudden, I had a local sitting in my vechile. He introduced himself and said he would be glad to accompany me to the West Coast. I informed him that I was just going to Bridgetown and was going to park my car and run the race, and that I wouldn't be back to my car for a couple of hours He muttered an expletive and then helped me through the confusing one way streets of Bridgetown. When I got to the race start he shook my hand, wished me luck and left...So much for the Bajan hijacking experience.
The Fish Festival itself begins in the afternoon and goes late into the night. We left at nightfall and it seemed that the entire island was already there. The event is lots of fun with loud reggae, great local foods (fray cakes are scrumpcious) and some fun contests like fish boning and greased pole climbing. We ended up bying some real nice local art of chattel houses and seascapes.
We ate in our room more often than going out, but I know that people are always curious about resturants. Pisces is real good, but the service is spotty, especially when it comes to getting a check. There is a new Italian resturant at the corner of St. Lawrence Gap and the Main Road. Its called Bellini's. Its quite good and the service is excellent. If you go, get the fettucini verdi. The Mermaid Inn is on Maxwell Coast Road on the South Coast and is a very pleasant place to eat - good food and good service. Their Calaloo Soup is outta sight!.
Our home in Barbados is our timesharing place on the South Coast, Sand Acres. We love the place - its friendly, breezy (we never use the air conditioning) and right on the beach. They are building a new, more posh place next door called Bougenvilla. I understand that sales are going well. We were able to show off our place to that Prodigy maven Terri B. and her husband. They stopped by and had a drink with us. Its great to meet people with whom you've corresponded over the past year.
Of course one Featival is not enough, so there was another one during our second week. This was called "de Congaline" Lots of music and food. And the worlds longest Congaline, weaving throughout St. Lawrence Gap.
Well, I'm worn out of writing and I guess you all are tired of reading. so I'll not discuss the Barbados Museum (ho-hum), the trip up island (don't miss Hackleton's Cliff, Cherry Tree Hill or Paul's Point near Cave Hill, and don't miss lunch of local food at the Atlantis Hotel in Bathsheba), the par three golf course (set on the rugged and picturesque eastern shore), SCUBA diving, wind surfing and the immense quantities of Banks beer consumed.
We will be back next year.
BVI by Ginny Noyes
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We just got back from two wonderful weeks aboard our WILDCAT sailing and motoring around the BVI. We had friends along for their first time in the BVI so did many of the regular stops.
We arrived late at night so slept on board the first night. Provisioning went quickly the next morning with 4 shoppers at work. We left by noon, tried to snorkel the Indians but one of our group lost a fin in 45 feet. We didn't have our tanks yet so spend some time getting a nearby divemaster to bring it up after his dive. We had cocktails at the Willie T and spent the night aboard at The Bight.
Day 2 We couldn't get a mooring at The Caves so went back to do the inside of The Indians, very nice. Next picked up tanks at Peter Island and dove the Wreck of the Rhone. Great dive as always! On to Cooper Island for the night, snorkeled in area and had dinner at the Beach Club.
Day 3 we enjoyed a stop at the Baths. Then picked up more dive equipment and provisions in Spanish Town. They have a good bakery and market at the marina. We dove the Chimney off Great Dog, snorkeled at Mountain Point before entering Gorda Sound, had painkillers at Pussers, Leverick Bay and spend the night on board.
Day 4 we tried to sail to Anegada but there wasn't enough wind to make it much of a sail so we motored most of the way. We took a cab from Anegada Reef Hotel to Loblolly Bay and made a great beach dive! The coral and fish were great. We had a drink at the Big Bamboo while waiting for our cab. Two kids from Pam's Bakery came around by dinghy selling sweet rolls, brownies, cookies and fresh baked bread. Lobster at Anegada Reef Hotel was good. Lights went out for awhile but they just pulled up a couple trucks with headlights on and everything continued as usual.
Day 5 we walked down the beach to Pam's Bakery for more bread and cookies. We had to motor sail back for lack of winds again. We caught a barracuda but put him back. He wasn't amused. We attempted a dive at Lee Bay, Great Camanoe but it was too churned up, poor visibility. We went to Guana Island instead to snorkel and spend the night. We had planned a night dive but had painkillers before dinner so called it off.
Day 6, we motored back to Spanish Town to return tanks and other gear and pick up water and a few provisions. We had lunch and snorkeled at Great Dog. On to Marina Cay but too late to get a mooring so stayed in Trellis Bay. Our favorite restaurant, Conch Shell Point was closed on Monday so took the ferry to Pussers, Marina Cay and had a great dinner of Eserol (sp?) fish. The place was very nice although different from the way it used to be. They did keep the library on top of the hill.
The next morning we took our friends to the airport from the dinghy dock and bid them farewell. We got our first paper in a week and found out very little had happened while we were out and about. A couple hours later we met our next guests at the airport, brought them aboard and that will be
So began our second week aboard WILDCAT. After boarding from the airport we went to Cooper Island and relaxed, did some snorkeling and ate on board. This week would be more easy going. Our friends were happy to relax and take in whatever we did and there was no push to see and do everything.
The next morning we reached a charter board captain friend who happened to be at Valley Trunk Bay just north of the Baths so we motored up to visit with him on the beach. We then sailed down to Deadman's Bay, Peter Island for the night. This is one of our favorite places but there were eleven boats there that night. The beach and lights were beautiful as usual.
The next morning we went ashore and hiked up and around the hills. The views were spectacular. We took some nice pictures of our boat in the bay after most of the other boats left. We went across to our marina in Road Town to check the auto-pilot and get some provisions. We met other charter boat friends for a visit. Then returned to Deadman's Bay for another peaceful night; not so many boats this time. We spotted several turtles.
In the morning we motor-sailed to Soper's Hole for some shopping. Then to White Bay, Jost Van Dyke and the Soggy Dollar Bar. (When we were there last summer we came ashore with $40. We found $5 while snorkeling the reef. Our lunch bill was $45.50. Rafael told us to bring it next time.) We swam in, reminded him we owed him 50 cents and a tip. We paid our debt and he said today's painkillers were on the house. That's what I'd call island hospitality. We relaxed in the hammocks, walked the beach and played games at the bar. Then off to Little Harbor and lobster dinner at Harris' Place, outstanding as usual!
Next morning we cruised by Sandy Cay for some pictures and headed to Brewer's Bay, Tortola. (Our friends name is Brewer) We were quite careful entering the bay having read much about it, especially during winter months. We didn't have any trouble getting in and anchored. The snorkeling was out of this world!!! We saw 4 adult squid that did not go into hiding while we were around. Just a short distance away we saw 45 juvenile squid just below the surface. It was quite a sight. Of course I didn't have my camera along. I went back to the boat for it but couldn't find them when I got back. Another one of those wonderful pictures in your mind.
Then we went to Cane Garden Bay for the night. We walked to the Rum distillery, took the tour, bought a bottle and walked down the beach. We ran into some British sailors having fun on the beach. They offered us drinks in exchange for the rum which we found a great trade. We spent quite some time visiting with them, a very pleasant bunch and lots of fun, a nice way to spend some time on the beach. We had dinner on board waiting for the music to start. Myetts had 2 bands going until 3AM. I do not recommend Cane Garden on Saturday night unless you are planning on staying up till 3. There was no way to sleep in the harbor.
Next morning we decided to go up the northern side of Tortola. The winds were so nice we headed out and returned to Anegada under sail. It was great fun at 9-11 knots all the way. We walked to Pam's bakery for cookies and ice cream and had dinner on the boat. Next morning we had another nice sail back to Road Town. We began packing and threw a party on board for the staff and crews at our marina. At 9PM we went to the Captains Table for a light supper and found the UCLA game on TV. What a great surprise to see the game. Another wonderful trip and of course we started planning our next trip on the flight home. What a wonderful place, the BVI's, our second home.
BVI: Bareboat By Robert Lehnes
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We just returned from 8 great days aboard a catamaran in the BVI. Our first bareboat charter. The crew included Dad (birthday present), three sons, and #1 grandson. Yes, 5 guys.
We chartered with Catamaran Charters out of Road Town, Tortola. Upon our arrival we were informed that the Privilege 39 we had reserved wasn't available and they had upgraded us to a 43' St. Francis w/4 heads. Not too hard to take. We spent the first night at the Village Cay Marina Hotel. Very nice. Dinner there was nice, as well. The following morning seemed to take forever before we actually set off on our cruise. Finishing touches on the boat by the charter company, chart briefing, boat familiarization and finally the check out sail.
A quick word about provisioning. We got the gourmet split provisioning package (4 dinners aboard, 3 ashore) from the Ample Hamper at Village Cay. Absolutely fantastic. Great food, plenty of it. A keeper.
A Captain from the charter company took us on a check sail and showed us the cat on all points of sail with tips on how to sail her best. He, by the way had sailed the St. Francis from South Africa to Tortola. He was quickly satisfied that we could ably handle the boat and let us drop him off at the ferry terminal on Peter Island rather than return to Road Town. We then sailed straight away toward Norman Island where we planned to anchor for the night at the Bight. Once the hook was set, we set out in the dinghy to explore Treasure Point and the caves. By this time it was getting late so we decided to put off exploring the caves until our last day. Had a drink aboard the William Thornton, an old Danish Baltic Trader sailing vessel permanently anchored in the Bight as a floating bar and restaurant. Experienced our first (and by no means last) "Painkillers." hit the sack early in anticipation of our adventurous week.
Day 2. Weighed anchor and set sail for Salt Island bright and early the next morning to snorkel at the wreck of the mail steamship Rhone. (Slight detour for a "dinghy overboard" drill when the dinghy towing line let go.) It was great with so much of the wreck in shallow water so as to be easily visible to snorkelers on the surface. After our first trip we sat on board and looked at the cruising guide and the pictures of the wreck in it. Lots of things we didn't see on our first trip so we went again. This time we had a much better perspective and really saw so much more of the wreck. Sailed to Cooper Island and grabbed the last mooring in Manchioneel Bay. Our only bad night for sleeping. The wind was howling with gusts that had to be 40 knots. The current had all the boats turned sideways to the wind so it was a rocky ride. Nobody slept.
Day 3. By morning the wind finally calmed down a bit and we set sail for Virgin Gorda and the famous Baths we had heard so much about. We sailed between Cooper and Salt Islands into the Atlantic to try to make the trip with only one tack, which we did. The seas were a little rough, but the cat was steady enough for us to prepare and eat breakfast while underway. While motoring into the Baths our port diesel threw an alternator belt so we motored in on one engine. We took the first mooring we found, not wanting to maneuver with only one engine. We called the charter company and explained our problem. By the time all of us had finished snorkeling and exploring the Baths, the chase boat had ours fixed. The Baths were great, everything they were said to be.
We sailed from the Baths to North Sound, Virgin Gorda, taking the short cut between Anguilla Pt, Virgin Gorda and Mosquito Island. Due to the shallow water, only cats are allowed to take the short cut. We picked up a mooring in Leverick Bay. What a great anchorage. Real nice and quiet (and calm). Had dinner ashore at Pusser's Leverick Bay. Dinner was superb. Great steaks and Mahi-mahi. More to come.
Day 4. Nice night of sleeping, especially after the last night. After breakfast we picked up some necessary provisioning and then motored out past the Bitter End and Saba Rock into Eustatia Sound for some snorkeling among the reefs there. Very nice. Motored out between Prickly Pear and Eustatia Islands and then set sail on a nice reach for Great Dog for more snorkeling. Ate lunch along the way. Good snorkeling at Great Dog, then sailed to Beef Island. Rather large swells, about 6' I guess. Picked up a mooring in Trellis Bay and some of the crew did some wind surfing in a fresh breeze.
Day 5. Beautiful morning. Decided to motor to Marina Cay to fill our starboard water tank. We had switched to the port tank the night before. Went to start the engines and they wouldn't turn over. The batteries were run down. Good thing we paid such close attention to the boat checkout. Always put the batteries on "both" when the engines are running and then switch to "2" when they're not running so as not to wear down the backup battery, #1. We paid close attention and switched to #1 and the engines started right up. (Remember, this was our first time charter.) A good lesson there for inexperienced charterers. All week it was the responsibility of one crew member to be sure the battery was put in the appropriate position. We never had a problem. After filling up with water we motored out the channel between Great Camanoe and Little Camanoe. What a bear!! The narrow channel, coupled with strong current and stiff wind made it interesting. Just outside the narrow channel, the water calmed down. We raised just the jib for our short sail to Monkey Point. Ate breakfast along the way. Picked up a park service mooring off Monkey Point where the snorkeling was great. Zillions and zillions of fish, almost so many that you couldn't see the coral and rock formations. Saw a school of fish off our stern and fed them a little bread. Neat. Nice sail to Cane Garden Bay where we picked up a mooring early in the afternoon. A couple of our crew wind surfed while the rest of us vegged. Cane Garden Bay is one of the most beautiful anchorages we saw all week. Had dinner ashore. Just OK.
Day 6. Beautiful morning. The bay was like a lake all night with just a gentle breeze to make sleeping comfortable. Motored toward Green Cay, our first scheduled stop for the day. Breakfast along the way. Anchored between Green Cay and Sandy Spit, right next to Wildcat, from Tuscon, AZ. (Guess who's boat?) We were located at L18 degrees 27.04'N and Lo 64 degrees 42.62W, just to let you know we even knew how to use the GPS (which we used all week by the way). Sandy Spit is the most beautiful desert island you can ever imagine. We took the dinghy ashore and took a walk around the island (only takes 5 min). Snorkeled there, but had seen much better at other places. Set sail for a short trip to Little Harbor, Jost Van Dyke. Wind was so nice that we spent the next few hours just sailing between JVD and St. John's (a few times). First time we hit 12 kts, quite exciting. Moored in Little Harbor and went for a hike up to the top of the hill. Breathtaking view of the harbor and other islands. Called Harris' Restaurant to get reservations, but they were out of lobsters, which we had our hearts set on. Paid for the mooring at Abe's and noticed live lobsters in a keeper at the dock. Made reservations for dinner when we paid for the mooring (and reserved 5 lobsters). Abe's was great! Some of the lobsters had to be 4-5 lbs, but they were all so tender and sweet. A keeper.
Day 7. Motored to Soper's Hole to get some provisions (we were out of film). Harbor very crowded. Dropped of crew in the dinghy and just circled around for a few minutes and then picked them up. Sailed between St. John's and Tortola headed for the Indians. Timing is everything and two boats were just leaving when we arrived. Absolutely great snorkeling in and among the caves along the point. Maybe the best of the week.
Fouled the mooring line in our prop when leaving, but cleared it off with the help of a butcher's knife. Put a new loop in the line. Sailed a nice close reach all the way up the channel to Fat Hogs Bay for our last overnight stay. Nice anchorage, although a tad small. But the moorings make it accommodating.
Day 8. Motored the short distance to Road Town and returned our boat reluctantly. The end of a truly great week. I hit only the highlights, the places that were special. Best food w/atmosphere - Pusser's Leverick Bay. Best food w/o atmosphere - Abe's. Best snorkeling - Eustatia Sound, Monkey Point, Treasure Point. Since we are now "experienced" bareboaters, we'll be happy to answer any ?'s or provide any additional information anyone may wish. Just happy to help out as other members of the bb had helped us. Smooth sailing.
Cancun by Nancy Hinzmann
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Just back. Hope this helps someone.
Exchange rate: 6.00-6.40
Weather: 85-95 Windy. Black flags(extremely dangerous swimming) 6 out of 8 days. Hotel: Mirimar Mission Plaza. O.K. Nothing special. Clean.
Buses: Great. Just tell the driver where you want to go. They don't wait for you to sit down. They don't even wait until the door is closed. You may feel like you are on a race track. Food: Bogarts the best by far.
Senor Frogs-I thought I might be too old for this place, (38) but after one yard long drink, I fit right in. Perico's-wild and crazy-congo line-bring camera.
Mango Tango-had one very strong drink there, can't remember much else after that.
Gypsy's-food O.K. Flamenco dancing.
Captain's Cove-ate there often for breakfast. Buffet-$6.00.
XCaret-$70 to swim with dolphins now. We just snorkeled up to their pen and they came right up to us. Snorkeled the underground caves-interesting but not many fish. I got cold. Mosquitoes at the park. Tour was $44.
Isla Mujeres- Tour $37. Catch a ferry from Fat Tuesdays-$12 We took a cab to Puerto Juarez for $5 and the ferry for 10 pesos ($1.67) They try to sell you tours on the ferry. When you get off the ferry you will be surrounded by tour selling people. We walked on the beach to the left for quite a ways. Many topless sunbathers. Then we took a cab to the National Park to snorkel. Many fish.
Cozumel-Took the ferry out of Playa del Carmen. If it's windy, take Dramine. Many people got sea sick. Tour-$70. Diving Tour-$100. Ferry out of Fat Tuesdays-$27. Snorkeled by Cub Med. Million jelly fish. Got stung a couple of times. We saw sea urchins and squid there.
I was very careful what I ate and drank but still got sick. In my group, 3 out of 4 got sick. Bring meds.
Time share people everywhere-hotels, restaurants, beach.
Shopping: silver and tee shirts everywhere.
Bring a little calculator to figure out pesos vs U.S. dollars.
Cayman Brac by Paul Tibbetts
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First of all, let me start off by saying that I've lived in Cayman Brac all my life so most of this text is going to be based on first hand knowledge. As you would expect, I love Cayman Brac, but I'll try to be fair and present it as I've heard visitors describe.
History: Cayman Brac was the first of the Cayman Islands to be discovered in 1503 by Christopher Columbus. It was discovered first because of its bluff (a flat cliff running throughout the island, reaching 140ft at the eastern tip). In fact the island was named after this distinctive feature (Brac is Gaelic for "bluff"). Turtles were so in abundance in the surrounding seas that the islands were first named "Las Tortugas". According to legend, the first settlers on the island were deserters from the British Navy stationed in Jamaica.
Reasons for going: First and foremost, diving. Every tourist I've talked to have said that the diving in Cayman Brac is unequaled anywhere in the diving world. Although not a diver myself (I've often wondered why) one can easily see the world under the ocean from the surface. The bottom can clearly be seen at over 150 feet. Another reason for going is the islands' natural beauty. The bluff, with its astounding flora and fauna, is a must for nature enthusiasts. Not an obvious reason, but one that should be mentioned are the people of the island (please don't judge them by the taxi or tour bus drivers). The friendliness of the locals is one the first things mentioned by any visitor to the islands. Driving down a road you'll see that everyone waves to you, whether they know you or not (I quickly discovered that this was not done too often in the States). This is just their way of saying "hi" and thanks for visiting. Unlike other Caribbean islands there are no homeless or unemployed (except for two people, but that's by choice).
Reasons for not visiting: Depending on when you visit, those expecting wild night life and entertainment are going to be disappointed. Everything on the island shuts down at or around 9pm (Due to the lack of things to do, the local young people usually hang out at the airport). During periods like Pirate's Week (last full week in October), Christmas/New Year's, Fourth of July (?) and other holidays the whole island gets involved with entertainment. Dances, with music supplied by local bands, are well attended at the hotels and at the Public Beach. Other than the dates above though, night life is sadly lacking. Prices on the island are slightly on expensive side (although not as much as you'd expect). When you come, be sure to expect to pay more than you would in the States.
Where to stay: There are 2, well 3 (but I only recommend 2) hotels on the island. Both Brac Reef Beach Resort (ph 809-948-1453) and Divi Tiara (ph 809-948-1553) are located on the beach front, offer outstanding service and include full service dive operations. Each hotel has its own unique charm. Tiara (as it is locally referred to) is definitely the more commercial of the two and is considerably larger. Tiara also offers Time Share Units (which are very popular). Brac Reef, on the other hand, offers a more secluded atmosphere yet still offers excellent dive packages. Both hotels are slightly on the expensive side (Brac Reef is the cheaper of the two). In addition to the two hotels, there are condominiums (Brac Haven Villas, Seafarer, Brac Caribbean Club) as well as numerous guest homes.
Eating Out: Rated in order of personal choice and popularity:-
1. Edd's Place - specializes in local, American and Chinese dishes. Food = A-. Price = $10-30ea. (extremely good cook) 2. La Esperanza - specializes in local and American dishes. Food = A-. Price = $10-30. 3. G&M Diner - specializes in everything. Food = B. Price $5-20. 4. Aunt Sha's - specializes in local and American. Food = B+. Price $10-30. 5. Wallgreen - specializes in local, American. Food = B+. Price $5-20.
In addition to these are several local snack type restaurants. "Angies" is easily the most popular among locals and visitors alike. "Seaview" (locally referred to as "Blackie's") has a drive-through, but its more closely related to a drive up, park, wait 10 minutes type of service (their food and locally made ice-cream (highly recommended) is usually worth the wait though).
One final note on food -- try "patties". They are to the Caymanians, what hamburgers are to Americans. You can buy them at any of the local stores. One taste and you'll be hooked.
Brac Facts:
Population: approx. 1500 Monetary Unit: Caymanian Dollar ($1CI=$1.20US) Crime: Non-existent Local Transportation: None, but several rental car agencies to choose from, as well as rental scooters and bikes. Electricity: Identical to U.S. Schools: 3 grade schools, 1 Middle/High School.
Points of Interest:
- Visit the lighthouse for a sunrise. You won't be disappointed. Complement this visit with a view of the sunset from West End Point. - Visit the museum. It's small, but it's full of interesting and unique facts and objects. - Visit Little Cayman. Go with
your hotel, or private charter to Point-o-sand for a day. I think it's the best beach in the islands. - Visit the caves (on the south side of the island). Recommended caves are "Bat Cave" and "Great Cave" - Visit the south-eastern tip of the island ("End of the road, south-side" as labeled by locals). Spectacular scenery and blowing holes.
I guess that about wraps up this session of "Bracology". When you're traveling again. Make sure you consider Cayman Brac.
Cozumel by Daniel Waskie
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COZUMEL LIFE GUIDE 95
(Ed Note: The following Cozumel Life Guide was prepared by Daniel Waskie visitor to Cozumel 17 times, avid scuba diver, speaks Spanish, married 22 years. )
HOTELS:
If you want a Resort type atmosphere, the best resort hotel for you is the Sol Caribe Cozumel. As you enter the hotel you walk into a truly recreated Mayan Jungle. Parrots, waterfalls, the whole works. It has everything. It's plush and has the only truly sandy beach on the hotel side of the island. Cozumel's water is so clear because of it's ironstone coastline. You will truly love Sol Caribe Cozumel. There is so much offered that you don't ever have to leave it for your entire vacation. It has the largest lagoon style swimming pool on the island where you can actually almost get lost swimming around the different areas of the pool lagoon. You eventually end up at a swim-up bar where you can sit on an underwater stool and enjoy your favorite drink. They have two restaurants, an open-air Mexican style where you will enjoy a lavish all you can eat breakfast buffet, and a formal restaurant for those special evenings when you don't want to go into town for dinner. There are shops, rental cars, tours, and a twenty-four hour taxi stand right at the hotel. Each evening, out by the pool in the Mayan Ruin Garden, they have a live mariachi band to serenade you until you're ready to call it a day. There beach is the best with plenty of chairs, another bar, rental snorkel and dive gear, free towels, etc., etc. - too much to mention. They even have their own water desalinization plant so you don't have to worry about the water. You also get bottled water in your room. Rooms are about 120/day. Expensive but worth it. See your travel agent for any deals going on at the time you want to go.
Choice number two would be the Plaza Las Glorias. Lots of activity, nice rooms, plenty of eating and shops, a little less money (95/day), I've stayed there but I prefer Sol Caribe. Stay at Sol and visit Plaza on the nights they have special buffets, such as their Mexican night. Don't get me wrong, this is a very nice hotel, but that's what it is, a hotel rather than a resort like the Sol Caribe is.
Choice 3 would be the Fiesta Inn, about 70/night, with nice snorkeling and a big pool. Again this is a large hotel without all the amenities of the Sol, however, this is still a first class everything hotel.
OTHER HOTELS:
The largest resort is the El Presidente. It's big with everything but it's impersonal and bland to my taste. Lots of folks like its tropical-all alone atmosphere though.
All in- town hotels, my favorite ($5-50/night), are truly Mexican and not on the beach. The one we usually stay in is called the Meson San Miguel, it's right on the north side of the plaza, it costs $35/62night. No TV in the rooms (satellite TV in lounge) but they're comfortable, air conditioned, and we know everyone who works here. Great lobby with bar with satellite TV. Close to everything in town.
Another we like is the Mary Carmin, this place is small and very old (kinda run down) but has a truly Mexican courtyard with huge wooden doors leading you into the yard from the street. The rooms are clean and bottled water is provided. They don't speak much English here but enough for you to enjoy it. Costs the same as San Miguel but a block away from the bustle of the Plaza. You can actually hear the traditional bell-ringer at night ringing to tell you everything is safe (Mexican culture ritual). $25/nt. Hotel Lopez, which is right on the square has ceiling fan rooms for $10/nt. some sleep 6.
BEST RESTAURANTS:
Coz has it all! From one-of-a-kind Yucatecan delights, to French Bistro style cuisine, to marvelous overstuffed potatoes, to Swiss-Italiano Pizza, not to forget traditional local dishes from all over Mexico. Succulent seafood and tender, hearty Sonora Beef! Of course there is "good old America U.S. food." No where in the entire western hemisphere will you find more variety and flavor, enjoy!
BREAKFAST:
Expensive - The buffet at Sol Caribe which is about three miles south of town, get a taxi (you don't have to stay here to eat here), all you can eat. Really a super breakfast, one that you will never forget. Everything you're used to plus a whole lot of new things for you to try. About 10 bucks a head.
) Moderate (my favorite- Las Palmeras, located downtown right across the street from the downtown pier where the ferries come in. You must try this place. Served off the menu, you can order your favorite US style breakfast, or like we do, have one of the Mexican omelets, or create something of your own. The bread is baked fresh everyday for your toast and everything is delicious, no fears here. I have enjoyed breakfast at Las Palmeras for many years and find it hard to beat. It's an open air restaurant which allows you to enjoy the morning activities of the Mexican people. You'll see the kids fishing off the downtown pier and the natives buying their catch.
Right next door is a bank, the best place to change your money to pesos. You'll watch people getting on and off the ferries, and even the cruise ships that get in early. Cost: about $6/head for breakfast with fresh squeezed juice and really good coffee. Just once try the breakfast fruit platter, WoW! It's more than any one person can eat and it will introduce you to, besides the stuff you're used to, some Mexican favorites. Here you will experience the real Cozumel.
American - The Sports Page, walk a block north from the northeast corner of the Plaza. Owned by an Oklahoma friend of mine, this is the closest place on the island to being back home. The prices are good too. Breakfast runs around 5 bucks and it's very good. Ice cold air conditioning and a sports atmosphere with satellite TV going all the time, on every wall, makes you think you're back home in your neighborhood sports bar. When there are no games on, like for breakfast, you'll watch CNN. You can get American beers here and shoot a game of pool if you like. This place usually exchanges money at the best rate of all restaurants but not nearly as good as a bank. Almost 100% tourists but they do a brisk and quality business. You'll quickly meet friends here.
For lunch get the burger with fries. The owner is so successful with this business, buys so much, that he gets the quality from the markets he wants, you should hear him talk about his efforts to get true quality meats and seafoods. You'll like the Sports Page. Almost every sports star I've heard of has been there and their jersey is hanging on the wall or ceiling like wallpaper. The Sports Page is squeaky clean and safe, use purified water.
LUNCH:
The norm on Cozumel for us tourists is not to formally eat lunch. Catch the late breakfast then an early dinner, if you must eat lunch on the go, pack something you bought from El Commercial (the grocery on the plaza) in a cooler (also sold at El Commercial) and eat it on the beach. Don't forget about the Mexican custom siesta. Most of the stores and shops close from noon or one until three or four. This is when the Mexicans eat their main meal of the day, at home. The shops and stores open again from about four until about seven or eight. Restaurants don't follow this custom.
If you're hungry at lunch time and want to eat at a restaurant I recommend (not necessarily in this order, depends on what you feel like eating):
The Sports Page for burgers and fries (see above)
Mr. Papas (a Mexico City franchise, like our McDonalds but without the drive-through, is a place that is clean, modern and tidy) for the Best Burritos on the Island, great BBQ chicken, everything is great. Try one of their many stuffed potato specialties.
My favorite is Ham/Bacon/Broccoli/Cheese.
Also try the Caprichosa (everything included) Even the fajitas are good. Burgers good too. Mr. Papas is located three blocks south of the plaza on an east to west road. Look for it during one of your first walking excursions through town. They have all the satellite TV stuff but in more of a MODERN AND COMFORTABLE Mexican flavor. VERY safe place to eat and enjoy either lunch or dinner.
ERNESTOS FOR FAJITAS: Don't leave Cozumel without trying these fajitas. The best FAJITAS on the island. Informal but professional. Meat imported from USA. but the recipe is purely Mexican. Not that the Cozumel beef is bad, it's just that this place insists on a VERY LOW and CONTROLLED fat count on its meat which apparently is why they import their beef. Enjoy the combo which includes imported beef, local chicken, and local shrimp. The food is fresh, extremely tasty, and the atmosphere is friendly Mexican. You'll come back again and again. Located a cab ride south of town on the main drag (malecon).
AT CHANCANAB PARK: La Laguna is pretty mediocre good for lunch, there is no other restaurant at the park, this is the largest native architecture on the island.
EVENING MEAL: This is the toughest subject for me to write about. Most places are very good but many are exceptional. My favorites for an evening meal may be different from yours probably because of price, whether you want to party and eat, or just eat and enjoy. I tend to seek out the lesser expensive places that still offer the atmosphere I'm looking for. I'll try to be unbiased in my selections for you.
EXPENSIVE PLACES
CLASSIC ITALIAN CUISINE, DONATELLO serves it all, formally. Downtown and very plush.
FANCY STEAKS and MEXICAN FOOD with safe Salad Bar, go to PEPE'S GRILL on the waterfront downtown just south of the pier. The menu is extensive but I recommend the current house special, this will always be the freshest and best prepared item (usually a steak of some sort), or the always SUPER DUPER Mexican platter. You must order the Mexican coffee before the meal, it comes flaming and with a show (this is an alcoholic drink). These folks have been here forever so far as I know. They are one of the originals and are a legend. Owned by the richest families on the island. Mariachis serenade you after 8 PM. Tip the mariachis $5. Request the song "Cuando Caliente El Sol." You'll recognize it and love to hear it again. Great view of the waterfront. People are super friendly. Food is safe.
LOBSTER/KING CRAB, moderate, although all the restaurants serve lobster, the best place to go for really fresh (out of the sea daily lobster) is:
COSTA BRAVA restaurant. A little off the beaten trail, but the really best place to enjoy the flavor of the island. The people are the friendliest you'll ever meet. You will leave here full and satisfied. Also consider the King Crab. MAN is it good! This place, because a bit out of your way, really pleases. They demand that your palate calls you back to their place. It works! Best price for lobster on the island. Best price for all seafood. Pick a cool night due to open air. Just as the taxi driver to take you to Costa Brava.
MODERATE PLACES:
PANCHO'S BACKYARD, located on the north side of town, on the waterfront. Full menu, the spaghetti is great. I've never seen nor tasted spaghetti prepared in this manner. It's a bit unique and I recommend you try it at least once.
PIZZA, GOSH HOW COULD WE LIVE WITHOUT IT! there is a Dominos on the island, they are doing a landmark business, last I heard it was around 16K/wk. They will deliver to your room. Who wants it? Probably those that are too lazy or drunk to go to some of the REALLY TASTY AND UNIQUE PIZZARIAS that are on the island. I recommend the following, none deliver:
GATO PARDO ITALIANO: Man is this good stuff.(my favorite) It's located one walking block southeast of the plaza, in a quaint storefront, but once you get inside they even have a back outdoor patio with falling water where you can enjoy a really great pizza. Other Italian specialties on the menu, all are super.
KAREN'S PIZZAS: Courtyard pizza with a mock bullfight on certain evenings. This place is noted for their pizza WITH ASPARAGUS. Order one of their pizzas that comes with asparagus. You will be delighted. The mock bullfight is a thing they do, certain nights of the week, where everyone is issued a Mexican Sombrero, and put into a line of people that march down the downtown streets of San Miguel to the beat music. There are certain stops where you are given ANOTHER SHOT OF TEQUELA. This is not for everyone, and you don't have to participate, but the pre-march show is worth the price of your pizza. It's funny and you'll enjoy it. Eat at Karen's at least once during your visit. Call them from your room to find out what night the mock bullfight is on.
Update 3-28-95 The bathrooms stink!
HAVE YOU EVER HAD A PIZZA BAKED IN A WOOD BURNING OVEN? Try PIZZA ROLANDI. This is another Mexican franchise, like Mr. Papas, that puts out a great product. The owners are friendly but the pizza is small, even the large is thin and small. It's located on the malicon (the waterfront street), at the furthest north end. You can walk there. It's the restaurant where the lights run out. It gets dark after Rolandi's. The reason I recommend it is because of the taste (man is it good) and the courtyard atmosphere (this is real Cozumel). It's intimate and mouthwatering and right on the ocean. You'll never meet nicer people than the folks that own this Rolandi's franchise.
DAYTIME ACTIVITIES:
THERE ARE TOO MANY TO MENTION IN THIS GUIDE: What I will try to do is give you a few tips, based on what your tastes are.
THE MUSTS TO DO AND SEE IN COZUMEL:
The first day, even your day of arrival if you get in early enough, is a trip to the Museum. The Museum is located just several blocks north of the plaza and any taxi driver will take you there. There are four rooms, on two stories, takes only about an hour, and only costs a couple of bucks. This will give you a flavor for the island and actually help you to plan the rest of your vacation. This Museum is a modern facility with even a restaurant and lounge on the top floor. Make this one of your first "things to do." Without a flavor for the island you will not have as good of a time.
Chancanab Park: This is a GARDEN OF EDEN and AN extremely well maintained NATIONAL PARK. "YOU HAVE NOT BEEN TO COZUMEL UNLESS YOU VISIT CHANCANAB. There is a mile of beach and plenty of shops to rent snorkel or scuba gear. Get there early for the best beach seats, I recommend you plan for this and get there at around 10am at the latest. First set up you beach site (put your stuff down and around your claimed beach chairs) then hit the nature walk. The nature walk will lead you past some things you have never seen before. Eventually to the Park Museum. You will not believe the meticulous care of this park. It will give you a lot of ideas on how to change your own yard and landscaping. You will wonder why our country can't do something like this. You won't have to worry about your stuff left on the beach (while you tour) because of the Mexican park police. They will watch it for you, stand almost next to it. It's amazing! Explore the underwater caves on the south end of the beach. You can snorkel down and peek in, or scuba inside the entrance. They are always full of 20-30 huge tarpon. About 20 feet deep to cave.
SNORKELING - Go immediately to any of the two "Dive Paradise" dive shops and get their free newspaper-syle "free" Guide to Cozumel. This is valuable information that is updated frequently and is absolutely free to anyone that walks in to one of their two dive shops. It's so complete that it even includes basic Spanish language study. This free paper has been a classic for over 10 years that I know of. YOU HAVE TO HAVE THIS! Do this on your very first day!
SCUBA DIVING - First and foremost, make sure any operator you dive with is a member of CADO AND SSS which has the only recompression chamber on the island. One dollar of your fee goes to support this service. There are two types of scuba diving on the island, traditional (slow boat) and modern (fast boat). Most good operators offer both with the fast boat being the most popular. I like the slow boat for at least one of my diving days.
SLOW BOAT: Usually a traditional fishing boat that takes you leisurely for a one hour ride to the first dive site. You do your deep (80') dive here then it pulls into shore where you enjoy a relaxing lunch of fish cooked on an open fire. On the way home you do a medium reef dive in 40-50' of water.
FAST BOAT: High speed boats, 20-30 minutes to the reefs, get in - get out, move to the second medium reef, get in - get out - home by noon.
DIVE OPERATORS: Too many to mention all but we like the following: Dive Paradise: American owner friend of mine died of heart attack last year but reports say the company is even better now. Same or better high quality service. Two locations on island and will pick you up in boat at any ocean-side hotel south of town. 12 divers max. on slow boat, 6 divers max. on fast boats. No cattleboats. A company you can trust. Coupons for 15% off in free blue book available everywhere on island.
Discover Cozumel Diving: My second favorite, especially if you use a Nikon camera underwater. This company supports photography.
COZUMEL REEFS:
No mater who you hire to take you, you should know something about the reefs
1)The great PELANCAR REEF (the most popular): this is actually a conglomeration of many different coral formations stretching for a distance of three miles. Every dive shop will make your first dive-of-the-day the Pelancar. It is world famous. You will love it. 80-100 ft. depths with 1-4 knot current. The boat stays above the bubbles so if you want to quit just follow the bubbles to the boat.
2)SANTA ROSA WALL: -regarded as the second most popular dive/drop off wall it begins in 70' of water. More fish than Pelancar. Drops straight-away to the deep 2000' down. You might see mantas and sharks if you're lucky. Whale sharks are seen too.
ISLAND TOURS:
Rent a car from Budget downtown, they can make the best deal. If you want a car for more than a day, let's say a week, then make your deal with Budget before you leave the states, call their toll-free number. No one has ever figured out why, but you will save a lot of money by having your car/or jeep ready for you via an American "PRE" reservation. For instance: $50.00 per day rented on Cozumel translates into $185 per week if you rent the car before you leave home. I think it's because of the cruise ships, they can get more on a daily basis from the cruise people.
ONCE YOU RENT YOUR CAR, follow the schedule presented to you in the Dive Paradise (free) Newspaper. I might add to their itinerary: plan on spending a full day on the windward (east) side of the island. If you start the island tour heading south on the leeward island side (meaning a counterclockwise direction), take a side trip on every little road you see headed toward the beach. You'll find a lot of adventure. If you want to be left alone, once you get to the east coast of the island, turn right (on the rough dirt road at the beach), and find your own little beach in the sun. Strip off the clothes, forget the bathing suits, and enjoy the sun. No one will bother you, no one will even be able to find a parking place near where you found yours. The road is narrow and the ONE-CAR parking places are purposely spaced about a quarter mile apart. This goes on for about 10 miles. Rhonda and I really like this part the best. It's like being in another world. You will too! Imagine, just you and your wife and nature! Sand and sun. Need I say more? Don't fail to stop and explore the small Mayan ruins along this road. Also, if you're up to it, go all the way to the end of this dirt road and climb to the top of the lighthouse. The caretaker will feed you and sell you a soft drink or a beer. If you're hungry HE WILL ACTUALLY CUT THE HEAD OF A CHICKEN AND COOK IT FOR YOU RIGHT ON HIS WOOD FIRED GRILL! It doesn't get any fresher than this. My wife wouldn't eat it, it was great!
WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT:
Discos are a big thing on Cozumel. Not just discos, but real nice discotecs with laser light shows and smoke. These discos are as good as the best ones in New York City. Some of the LASER light shows are mesmoratic. The nightly entertainment is "UNLIMITED."
For Discos, the best one (it's hard to decide -they're all excellent) is the "SCARAMOUCH" downtown. This place goes on all night. So do several other places that are even larger than this place. If you're into the night scene, after the bars close (about 1 am) everyone goes to Scaramouch. The "Mayan 2000" is even better but it's only open during the season. Located waterfront at Sol Caribe.
Brothels: This guide would not be complete without mention of the 2 brothels on the island. Although any cab driver will take you to one of them, realize that they are illegal in Mexico and realize that you could go to jail. I've heard the Cozumel jail is not air conditioned. Bring condums, steel sack garbage bags, and get a shot upon arriving home. Remember SIDA (AIDS in Spanish) is worse in Mexico than in U.S.
YOUR HOTEL: probably has nightly entertainment. Some of it is very good. Most of it is overly expensive and a walk along the beach or a night beach picnic is best. The norm on Cozumel is "early to bed, early to rise."
GETTING AROUND COZUMEL:
Take cabs most of the time. There will always be a cab right outside your hotel. This is the best deal you will ever find in transportation. Cozumel taxi fares are strictly controlled by government and are, therefore, very reasonable. Drivers are, in general, friendly, helpful, and courteous but rarely carry a lot of change. Avoid paying in big peso bills, forget dollars. Learn the exchange rate and use pesos. Tips are expected because the fares are so low. You can get to most places in the populated areas of the island for under 5 bucks, usually 2 or 3.
Rent a car or jeep for at least a third of your stay. Reserve it first, before leaving the U.S. and you will save 50%. Usually, for a one week stay you get the car for the full week for what it costs to rent it locally for 2 or 3 days.
Rental companies are: Budget, Hertz and National. Call toll-free No. in U.S. before you leave and get the car on the weekly rate. There are no air conditioned cars in Cozumel.
DRIVING LAWS: in Cozumel are about the same as in the US. The major difference in Coz is that if you are stopped for a moving violation, the vehicle will be impounded and you will have to accompany the policia to the station to pay a fine. A little tip: a jeep, carrying over 5 persons (including driver), constitutes a moving violation. Money, a credit card, will get you immediately out of almost anything you get into in Mexico. I've never had any problems with the policia anywhere in Mexico. They want us to visit and will put up with most of our idiosyncrasies. Don't do drugs unless you like hot jails.
HOSPITALS AND CLINICS: In my opinion, I feel safer on Cozumel than I do when I'm in Cancun as far as hospitals and doctors are concerned. Cozumel has a hospital and a clinic, as well as very good doctors. Affiliated with St. Joseph's Hospital in Tampa, Florida is Dr. Ricardo Segovia, MD, also Dr. M.F. Lewis, MD, an American Doctor living in Cozumel is available 24 hours a day. He has been on Coz for 15 years. The hospital and clinic are very modern and extremely professional.
PHARMACY: Use the pharmacy at El Commercial right on the square, no prescription required for any type of drug if you know the name of it. Mexico doesn't require prescriptions because of the lack of doctors.
DAY TRIP TO THE MAINLAND: No vacation to Cozumel would be complete without a day trip to the mainland. The places there you'll want to visit are Tulum (Mayan ruins) and Xel-ha, pronounced Shell Ha (a natural lagoon aquarium that you snorkel and swim in). There are numerous shops and restaurants at each of these locations to eat at. You will also want to shop and take a dip on the beach of Playa Del Carmen. The best way to do this is, just after visiting the Cozumel museum on your first day, walk south to the downtown pier and get the latest JetBoat schedule to Playa Del Carmen. Usually they leave about 7:00am and this is the boat you want to be on. Once you arrive in Playa you will negotiate with one of the many cab drivers for a full-day rate, don't pay more than $65-75. He will be like your personal driver and his cab will be right where you got out when you return. Don't pay until back to Playa although I've never heard of a problem. These drivers are government licensed, a license that is hard to get and easy to lose. They make a lot of money, comparatively speaking. Start out with Tulum, when you're through, have him take you to Xelha. From there back to Playa Del Carmen. Arrive back to Playa an hour earlier than the JetBoat leaves so you can swim and enjoy the exceptionally beautiful beach at Playa. The last boat to Cozumel usually leaves about 6:00PM. If you miss it, not to worry, Playa has a beautiful hotel right on the beach that will make your day even better.
DETAILS ABOUT TULUM AND XELHA:
TULUM: The only Mayan city built on the coast and one of the area's biggest attractions. "City of the New Dawn." Here's a sense of drama, seeing a ruin with a backdrop of cliffside blue water and adventure. 60 structures for you to look at with guided tours offered. The largest structure, Temple of descending God, is a climber with a view you will never forget. Also don't miss the Temple of the Frescoes, full of wall paintings depicting Mayan deities.
Xel-Ha: A natural aquarium considered to be one of the biggest in the world. Ten acres of stunning lagoons, coves and inlets naturally carved into the area's soft limestone terrain. Home to countless species of tropical fish. Explore underwater caves, cenotes (sinkholes), and a partially submerged Mayan ruin. Rent snorkel gear and have a ball. Restaurants, hotels, bars, etc. in the park. Don't miss this one.
CANCUN DAY TRIPS: Although you could JetBoat to Playa and Bus to Cancun, it's a long long day and a lot of things can go wrong. Your best bet is to fly Aerocozumel, get a roundrobin from the airport and don't miss the return flight. You'll have to rent a car in Cancun because it's so spread out. Hotels and attractions are miles apart. Cancun is like Miami Beach only about 10 times bigger. If you like this sort of thing I suggest you go to Miami Beach. It's safer. Cancun is not Mexico.
MONTEZUMA'S REVENGE: Don't drink the water, period. Unless your body's system has developed an immunity to the strains of bacteria in Mexico, stay away. Even if they tell you the water is safe, don't drink it! In Cozumel, only drink the water that comes in a sealed bottle marked "Aquaribe-pure perfection." This is the only 100% purified water on the island. Some hotels put drops of anti-bacterial agents in the bottled water. You can tell because the bottles are not sealed. They use the old Aquaribe bottles. Incidentally, if your hotel is making desalinated water from sea water, you can drink it. The Sol Caribe, and others do this. It does still taste a little salty, however. Only drink water, coffee, tea at the restaurants I've listed unless you're willing to gamble on your body's immune response. Some can take it, others get sick. This won't kill you but getting sick means feeling terrible, black runny stool, on the pot all day, it can last a week. Chances are, once your body develops an immunity to this bacteria you won't suffer from it again. But don't count on it. Like the common cold, there are many strains your body is not used to. Incidentally, the Mexicans get sick when they visit us and drink our water. It's just a thing that the immune system needs to build up an immunity to.
TIPPING: Same as US, but don't tip unless service is excellent which it usually is. Let's not spoil this island any more than it is already.
KID BEGGERS: It is now illegal, in Mexico, to give money to beggers, especially kids. May parents have purposely kept their kids out of school to beg to tourists. The government is trying to put a lid on it and recently I've seen a reduction of beggers. Although you'll see them, adult beggers too, don't give them any money, perhaps you might give older beggerst a piece of bread from your meal if you're encountered while eating at an open-air restaurant. This is sad but it sometimes happens.
SIESTA: Cozumel follows the traditional rules of closing most commercial establishments from 1-5PM. Plan on it. However, they open again till 8.
REAL ESTATE: Mexican majority ownership is no longer required to own property in Mexico. Foreign investment is now welcomed with open arms. Buy or start a business on the island if you are a good negotiator. The Domino's does 16K/week in business, none of the restaurants are hurting. Do it! Live in paradise. Most of the land is being bought up by Europeans but there is still opportunity if you can negotiate. As a matter of fact, 90% of the island is undeveloped and virgin. Just takes money and willingness. Build your own paradise.
CHURCHES: Whether you're catholic or not, don't miss a mass at the downtown San Miguel Catholic Church located at Ave 10 X Benito Juarez. The guitars and beautiful vocals from the balcony will bring tears to your eyes. The presentation, although in Spanish and you can't understand it, follows the catholic protocol. You will feel MORE than at home. There is also a very nice Presbyterian church at Ave 30, between Calles 8 & 10. There other churches but I haven't visited them.
GAS STATIONS: Only one on the island. Located on the corner of Benito Juarez and 30 Ave. It is open 7AM-Midnight/7days. Avoid the 3PM change of shift. Make sure your rental car has a full tank and make them fill it if it doesn't. Pay pesos at the gas station and pump it yourself to make sure of liters. Know liters to gallons conversion so you don't look stupid.
THEATERS (Movie): Most flicks are in English with Spanish sub titles. Two really nice theaters in Cozumel. Ask your cabbie what is what.
BAKERIES: For lunch or dinner, instead of going to a restaurant, go to the bakery. Located two blocks north adjacent to the plaza. It BAKES all day long and supplies the island with a lot of goodies. You will never forget this place. I wish I could remember the name but just walk two blocks north on the waterfront road, from the plaza, hang a right and it's right there. EXCHANGING MONEY: Always exchange at banks. You get the best rate. If you eat breakfast at Las Palmeras there is a bank right next to you.
EMERGENCY PHONES:
AMBULANCE 24 HOURS 20639
CLINIC 21419
RED CROSS 21058
HOSPITAL 20140
POLICE 20092
BRYAN WILSON (Cozumel Consulate) 20654
HOTELS OF MENTION Contact your travel agent but if you barefoot, like we do, call from Coz. airport:
La Ceiba 20844
Mary Carmen 20581
Meson San Miguel 20233
Plaza Las Glorias 22000
Sol Caribe 20700 To call these numbers directly from the United States dial direct by picking up the phone and dialing: 011-52-987-then the number listed above. Be prepared to talk slowly or speak Spanish.
IDENTIFICATION: To visit Mexico you must bring with you a Passport, but in lieu of, a voters ID, and a Picture Driver's License. A few other ID's would be helpful and most important of all, "DON'T GO TO MEXICO WITHOUT A VISA OR MASTER CARD! The Mexican government wants to promote tourism but they will not tolerate those looking to take advantage of their easy prescription drug laws, nor will they tolerate illegal drugs. They are on the look-out.
TRAVEL AGENTS IN COZUMEL: Aviomar in Cozumel, a national travel agency, will take care of any problems you might have, plus they will help you with any touring you might want to do. If you want to see Chichen-Itza while you're here, this is the place to go. Please, only deal with professionals and you will be better off.
Dominica by Jennifer Gold
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Dominica : A Rugged & Pristine Jewel
Dominica is a spectacular island, brimming with waterfalls, overgrown emerald-green foliage, volcanic rock formations, endless hiking trails that snake through the rain forest, and the ever-present turquoise sparkle of the surrounding Caribbean Sea. I had the pleasure of staying there for four days recently, sandwiched between three days on Guadeloupe, and meeting what I can truly say were the nicest group of people, collectively, I have ever had the pleasure to know!
I'd like to share a few of my highlights with anyone who's considering a trip to the island. Be warned, though, Dominica is not the place for travelers seeking duty-free shops, glitzy discos, and high-profile resorts --it's really an "alternative" Caribbean vacation. If you truly do want to get away from it all (including air-conditioning and fancy restaurants,) and prefer active days of hiking, swimming, diving and exploring untouched terrain, definitely consider Dominica.
We flew into Guadeloupe and took a 90-minute, pleasant boat ride to Dominica's capital town, Roseau. Roseau is small and colorful--the standard of living on this island is very low, but you do not get any sense of despairing poverty or unfathomable living conditions. This is mainly because the Dominicans instantly come across as being thrilled to have you visit their island, and eager to both get to know you and talk about themselves.
We'd planned to begin our stay in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park area, then move around the island. We fell in love with the beautiful terrain of the rain forest, however, and couldn't resist staying there for the whole trip! The Papillote Wilderness Reserve is not to be missed; an 8-room guest lodge nestled firmly in the heights of the forest, just outside the 680-person village of Trafalgar. A 15-minute hike to Trafalgar Falls, a double waterfall running both boiling hot and soothing, icy cold, is a treat upon arrival!
Papillote is surrounded by acres of botanical gardens, teeming with exotic flowers and trees, and chirping, clucking and croaking with farm life! Even a Rastafarian rooster struts proudly about the premises, boasting a wild mane of what you' swear were dreadlocks! Dinners at Papillote, about $20US for a full course meal, are fantastic, and with other options in the vicinity including, well... fresh bananas from the trees or a can of Spam from one of the tiny local food shops, it's certainly a good bet! Grilled, fresh mahi-mahi, pumpkin-callalloo soup, chicken with mango and papaya wrapped and roasted in a big banana leaf, kush-kush (still don't know what it is, but it sure was good!) are all delicious, and served on a breezy outdoor terrace overlooking the dense canopy of the jungle.
I can't emphasize enough how much it added to our trip to get to know the Dominicans. We hired Phillip Joseph to be our guide for two full days; an exceptional value as we got to be very good friends with him and a good number of other Dominicans (no extra charge!) My friends went on the in- famous day-long hike to Boiling Lake and the Valley of Desolation, said to be spectacular but not for the wimpy! Those masochists loved the 7-hour journey: hand-over-hand through mud and sulphur, breathtaking vistas, swimming through sun-streaked grottoes... yeah, yeah, I probably should have gone. Instead I spent the day exploring the open-air market at Roseau, where every Saturday morning farmers and artisans from all of Dominica's 70 or 80 villages gather to sell and buy and gossip. I also took a short bus ride to Emerald Lake, a beautiful, gleaming body of water with a small waterfall you can walk through and behind.
A word about the "buses": they're actually small vans that run on no schedule other than say, when George the driver has finished his late- afternoon snack, or "Oops, Norman forgot something at home so let's back up 300 yards back to his house to get it."
.. you get the point! They really gather speed, careening down the left-hand side of the road at heights and angles to make Evil Kneivel gasp. At under a dollar to get just about anywhere, though, they're a great deal and should be used whenever possible.
There are many Dominicans who work as guides and offer their help at a small, negotiable price to get you around the island. Use them selectively -- many areas are cheap and easy to get to on your own, while others really need someone who knows where they're going! There were four in our group, so a guide made financial sense. We were driven to Scott's Head, at the southern tip of the island, to take advantage of one of the best diving spots in North America. Not being scuba-types, however, we rented snorkeling equipment and spent a day floating face-down in a gorgeous secluded cove and marveling at the schools of needle-nosed silvery fish, spiky black porcupine coral and unearthly orange anemone lurking below the waves. Scott's Head is a charismatic village that straddles the Atlantic and the Caribbean, with a main street running along the coastline and a nice-sized stretch of rocky beach. Just south of the town sits a huge rock formation at the end of a long sandy spit of land, whose peak offers terrific views of Dominica, the expansive Atlantic, and a smoky Martinique in the distance. We even got a long, rambling history lesson from a random, amiable Dominican, as we peered at an ancient-looking rusty cannon perched on the hill, about the battles over the island between France and England over the centuries. Finally, the United Workers' Party held a day -long actual "party" that day in Scott's Head for the people of the island, to get their political message out (elections are coming this fall.) A UWP- funded gala of music, dancing, food and drink, peppered with candid ate speeches and handshaking -- it was fascinating and of course, lots of fun! The Democrats and Republicans could definitely take a few lessons from these people.
Our final night was spent at the home of a woman recommended to us by our new friends. Lucy rented us a couple of rooms in her very clean, very basic home and cooked us a lovely "Mom-would-be-proud" meal served at her dining room table. These kinds of accommodations were really all we needed, and again, are great for backpackers and other low-maintenance types; it afforded us an experience we'd never have otherwise had. We spent the evening at a very local "disco" (small wooden structure with a stereo system and blue lightbulb hanging from the ceiling) attempting to dance to Caribbean music but looking more like we were trying to rid ourselves of many small fleas attacking from all directions.
Our trip concluded with an early morning, 3-hour (total) hike to Middleham Falls, a not-too-strenuous trek through the dense forest to a huge, clear waterfall, picking and eating grapefruits, raspberries and mangoes along the way. Phillip again accompanied us, pointing out the various foliage and flora and showing us nifty local tricks like how to make a natural umbrella out of a giant waxy leaf, as shelter from the passing drizzle. We did miss out on many of the island's other features, like Portsmouth which is said to have some pretty beaches, and the Carib Indian reserve, but we'll go there on our next trip. The central rainforest area more than held our attention during the time we were there, and I believe it's the highlight of Dominica.
Dominica is a true multidimensional experience: its rugged, pristine beauty, the warmth and intelligence of its people, and the sense of buried treasure you feel upon discovering the island are a very special combination. I almost hesitate to recommend going there, only because it's the kind of secret you sort of want to keep to yourself! But I urge anyone with a respect for nature and the desire for adventure to give it a try. In terms of practical matters, we brought very little with us--temperatures remained between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, usually sunny and humid but with frequent breezes and drizzly interludes to keep you cool and happy. U.S. dollars and travelers checks are widely accepted, and a good bet.
To all who go: have fun and take advantage of it all!
Jamaica by John Blenkinsop
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England, end of January. The weather is cold and wet. Linda-Louise and John, ordinary British tourists, board a plane for the eleven-hour flight to Mo'Bay. I would have liked less food and more legroom, Linda-Louise would have liked a shower. The flight tracking system showed our crawling progress past Iceland, over Halifax, down the East coast of the USA. More food. I couldn't feel my legs. I wished I wasn't sharing my seat with one-third of the woman next to me, who was even bigger than her husband. As we passed over Cuba and started our descent I thought of the two-hour transfer ahead.
My first impression of Jamaica, from the top of the aircraft steps, was mixed; the damp heat wrapped itself around me, but so did the dusk. I couldn't see much at all. After fourteen hours of daylight that "day", it was a disappointment! We crept through Baggage, Immigration, Customs and redcaps, found the Thompsons rep. and waited by the bus. The most alien things were the smells and the heat (darkness we can get at home). I felt a little threatened by the bustling, aggressive, noisy Jamaicans who demanded to carry our bags, sell us Red Stripe, introduce us to ganja.... My normal tourist inclination towards caution seemed to balloon into paranoia as I remembered everything I'd read in the Forum. Who was carrying a gun? Would I be arrested for talking to a ganja- salesman? Was this the right bus?
During the transfer to Ocho Rios, the travel rep. put us at our ease - we shouldn't give people a lift, we shouldn't buy ganja, or use unauthorized guides (a favorite trick appears to be for the guide to wander of for "ten minnits", for you to be mugged, and for the guide to return and request his fee before taking you back to your hotel!), or forget to tip the driver. We tipped the driver.
Actually, Appolline (the rep) and her driver, being the first Jamaicans we had any extended contact with, were very comforting. We took Appolline out for a meal in the second week and talked about recipes, lodgers, new bosses - that's when you get to know the natives; when you hear all the dirt on the woman next door's son's new girlfriend!
Our room at Club Jamaica was great. It was large enough for its king-sized bed and us together, had a wonderful view of Turtle Beach and the bay, free air-conditioning, satellite TV, bath/shower etc. and an efficient maid service two or three times a day.
We could hear some noise late at night from the in-house disco, but nothing disturbing - and the crickets were much, much louder!
The hotel itself is small (less than 100 rooms). The dining room (which can get quite chilly from the air-conditioning) has three dining-alcoves over- looking the main dining area, and a cute carved Jamaican coat-of-arms on the wall. The food is very good
on formal dining evenings, and the catering staff are imaginative in their use of the left-overs on informal nights and at lunchtimes. The soups are especially good, but the stews tend to be over- stocked with bone and fat. The jerk dishes are fiercely authentic! Waiting and serving staff are polite, prompt and friendly; they quickly get on first-name terms with their guests, which comes in handy for them when touting for tips towards the end of your stay!
The pool is very small, and 4' deep max., but since I learned to swim in it during our stay, I can't complain. The free watersports are limited - a glass-bottom boat, trips to the reef, free towels, snorkels and flippers; scuba costs extra. Linda-Louise, who is a good swimmer, is claustrophobic, and had never tried either snorkeling or scuba. After much coaxing Craig, the diving instructor (who comes from Doncaster, England) got her into the pool and taught her the elements of scuba, putting her at ease and even managing to make her laugh underwater! The watersports staff are great - enthusiastic, knowledgeable and (according to my wife) sexy.
Other facilities are a gymnasium complete with a miniature Stephanie (my kind of sexy) who does aerobics, etc. (I don't); two gift shops, one of which has a hair salon and massage; an inside bar (rarely open); and a poolside bar or CENTRE OF SOCIAL LIFE (pardon my shouting, but it's noisy round that bar). The "local drinks" rule appears not to be strictly adhered to - if you ask for Gordons or Napoleon, you get Gordons or Napoleon.
Now we are not Polish-American, so we didn't drink as much as we thought we would, given that the bar was free. It's surprising how boring rum mixes can get; they all tended to taste very similar, possibly because of the use of canned fruit juices. We eventually settled on G+T and Red Stripe. The bar staff were competent, happy and very helpful. They didn't tout us for tips; they probably never get forgotten.
After dinner there is entertainment which, apart from karaoke, crab races and a blind harmonica player, was really very good. The resident band plays to a high standard (although in common with bands everywhere they can't find the volume control), and for afters there's a disco in a traditional black-painted, laser-infested room with a rum-filled bar.
Excursions:
Dunn's river falls is a must. Having got over my fear of water by learning how to swim (or not to drown), I enjoyed wading up the cascades in my trunks (swimming shorts, in American); Linda-Louise enjoyed it too, but thought it cold. The climb is not difficult - anyone over 10 can do it - and the guide holds your cameras and takes competent photographs whilst you crouch under tons of falling river trying to smile. Don't take an expensive camera, just in case!
The Blue Mountain tour is good, but depends on which tour company you go with. We went with Holiday, which for this tour is better than Tourwise. Our guide was Lukey, a Belgian Jamaica-phile who had been deported half-a- dozen times until the Government got sick of it, and gave him a Jamaican passport. He is good! He plied us with strange fruits, drinks and a non- stop stream of information in an understandable "patois" style. He lectured us on coffee production, ackee-preparation, sugar cane, politics! We went over the mountains to Kingston, found that the Bob Marley Museum, which is only open on Tuesdays, was closed because Monday had been Bob's fiftieth birthday - the partygoers were still inside, sleeping it off. We shared lunch with the ants in the grounds of Devon House, a colonial mansion, and listened to the complaints of the other British tourists in our party. Back via Spanish Town, and complaints about the shanty-town - how disgusting, etc. - but it exists; it's just there; it's not as if we were having to pay to get in! We have our own, though smaller, in England. On the whole, though tourists expect everything to be beautiful, I'd rather have seen what we saw than be steered around the place as if poverty didn't exist.
River rafting - not the Martha Brae or the White river, both of which are near Ocho Rios, but the Rio Grande. A trip to Navy Island, and lunch at Errol Flynn's beach house. Don't make too many "big" jokes, or your wife will disown you! Navy Island is beautiful. If you can afford to stay in Port Antonio - or better, on the island itself - do it. The rafting is good, too. We had a raft captain call Sydney George Dunkley, who must have been sixty. Everybody knew him. He was friendly, cheerful and he would not shut up. He sang, joked, swore, provided a travelogue... An incident: We refused the attentions of the "bar boats" at every opportunity. Yet another came along; Sydney said, "They English; they poor; don' wan' no beer off of you, man!" And again, when someone on the bank suggested we would like to buy beer "for de captin", Sydney said, "You no beg fo' me, boy; I don' need you beg fo' me... (tirade of incomprehensible patois insults)"; Sydney is a good man, a Rasta in his heart, and the fastest captain on the river. Hope you get him.
Chukka Cove is an internationally famous equestrian centre, and is more than worth a visit. We were presented with ex-polo ponies and ex-racehorses. Linda-Louise, who is an experienced rider, said they were the best-kept horses she'd seen for public use. They are very sensitive in the mouth; you need only lay over the rein and they will follow your direction. You don't have to pull them about.
Half of our ride was sunny; out to the beach, about an hour, getting used to the sensations. At the beach the rain began. It poured. The toilet facilities had been invaded by sheltering goats, who had eaten all the paper. (I carry a supply with me on holiday - tip!) We stripped to our cozzies and rode into the sea. The rain drummed, the surf boomed, the horses swam and the water, being used to horses, was full of their breakfast. You do not want to fall off. I had to retire after three- quarters of an hour in the sea, because my glasses were getting slippy and threatened to fall off (tip two - take a spare pair, and wear the cheaper in such situations). It was thrilling, wet, frightening, fun, wet and wet. Then back through the pouring rain to Chukka Cove, through mud, rocks, wet vegetation and the giving of tips to the guides. I would do it again, even though my thighs ached for five days afterwards.
We went deep-sea fishing. We caught plenty of deep sea, but no fish. Our captain found a floating oildrum, under which some fish were lurking, and we nearly got one. I would have thought that the sensible thing to do would be to take out a sheet of plywood and drop it in the ocean, then go back next day and fish underneath it, but this has never occurred to the serious sport fisherman, who prefers to go back empty handed and boast. Still, the water helps to tan beneath the chin, I suppose.
Some more tips: Alcohol seems to be cheaper in the Airport duty-frees than in the shops... Always haggle, then walk away without buying; you'll be offered the earth in a free raffia bag... Hotel shops are much more expensive than any others... If you go to a chinese restaurant, as we did, order a quarter of what you'll think you can eat, it's huge portions... Always be honest. If you don't want ganja, a watch, a beer, say "I don't want it." The response is, "Respec'". If you say "I left my money in my other pants" you'll be hassled to hell and back, 'cos you're a dishonest son of a gun. It's nice to hear "Respec'".
That's what I learned, in Jamaica. When we go again, we'll have more "Respec'", and we'll earn more "Respec'".
Jamaica Swept Away by Jerome Pineau
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This is a report detailing our experience with Swept Away, a privately-owned resort located in Negril, Jamaica. The trip took place on April 3rd, 1995 and lasted for 7 days. My wife and I left from Newark, NJ and flew direct to Montego Bay where we met two of our very good friends and boarded a JUTA (Jamaican transportation authority) bus for the hour and a half long trip to Negril. With regards to landing in Jamaica, I highly recommend that first- time travelers to this beautiful land bring a big stick to beat off all the "bag-carriers" at the airport.
The road trip to Negril from Montego Bay lasted one hour and a half. As the driver pulled out of the airport doing a mere 80 MPH, he mentioned that there were no accidents in Jamaica, only near misses. And surely he must have been right, as the concept of seat-belts has yet to reach the shores of Jamaica. Ya 'mon, hang on for dear life. There are no such things as speed limit signs either. Personally, I learned to drive in Paris and NYC, so the driving never really bothered me. But I could see the fear of death in various other passenger's eyes. It helps to have a couple of beers before the trip. Jamaican Red Stripe is pretty good. But as you only rent beer really, the driver was forced to make a pit stop half an hour from our final destination. As it seemed we were stopping on someone's private property, most passengers seemed reluctant to leave the bus so I jumped out first. But lo and behold, a bar and tavern appeared within seconds, followed by a bartender, and a barely clothed local man with ganja for sale at a very competitive price (or so he claimed). He also boasted of growing the stuff himself in his own backyard. I hated to disappoint him, so I let him know it would not be proper for an international DEA agent on vacation to accept such a bargain. I don't know if he believed me, but he certainly disappeared pretty fast. Already we were having a blast !
Arrival at the resort was uneventful. The staff seemed as concerned with our arrival as they might be about the unified theory of relativity. This was my first trip to an "all inclusive" resort, so I was somewhat taken aback when the first thing they asked us was for a credit card in case we break or end up "borrowing" anything. Yeah, I'm spending $1500 per person per week - I really need to take hotel stuff home for kicks <sigh>.
At this point, a word of warning to the few folks who may happen to be taller that four feet: all the vegetation at Swept Away hangs obnoxiously low all over the pathways. At first I thought it may be that the Jamaican people were distant relatives of African pigmy tribes, but I soon stood corrected. The only reason for this overbearing fauna growing on the ground is that the grounds are simply poorly if ever kept...Oh well.
At least our room was nice. Not so for our friends. They were told the resort was full and that they would have to stay in the annex where some of the staff also lives. In there, they found a small room with two very stiff twin beds. We found out later that the resort was actually at 60% capacity on that day.
We left our bags and proceeded to the "veggie bar" by the beach where sandwiches are (theoretically) served 12:00 to 6:00. A word of warning for hearty eaters who would rather not have to wait until dinner time to get their lunch: the portions are small and the service is amazingly slow. To make up for that though, the veggie bar staff is unfriendly and uncooperative. Like most other places in this resort, the staff makes you feel like they're really doing you a favor by helping you out. At any time, they know how to make you feel REALLY guilty about interrupting their ever-so important conversation to get you major items like a glass of water, a beer, or even silverware.
Luckily, this comfortable resort has bar staff combing the beach ready to fulfill your every drink fantasy - NOT. In seven days, we were actually asked only once if we needed anything on the beach. The small tray-carrying girl who happened to wander by us on that day looked so depressed that we sent her on her way totally guilt-ridden. We were hoping she would not commit suicide before coming back with our order. As our luck would have it, she did return indeed 40 minutes later with the wrong order. Hey, what can you expect. It's hot out there 'mon !
The beach furniture and, as a matter of fact, all the equipment at Swept Away is either run down or unkept. If you can find a floater seat that's not shredded or destroyed, call Mike Wallace. The beach is not combed or cleaned daily. For a resort of that size, you might expect to see more than a single hobby cat laying on the sand, but in fact there was only a single such vessel there the whole time and it was in no shape to be taken out for lack of a special kotter pin which, we were told, would surely need to be flown in from another country at some point in the near future. Ya 'mon !
And now for a more positive note: the scuba diving facilities and equipment are pristine. Even the scuba staff is nice, helpful, and professional. Given that, it did not surprise us to hear some days later that this operation was not part of the resort. It is a franchise. Of all our activities during this vacation, scuba diving was the most pleasant and rewarding. For those of you going to Swept Away who are not into scuba diving: bummer! Oh I shouldn't say that, actually, there is hope for avid golfers.
They won't tell you this during orientation (it's really more important to tell you about all the shopping opportunities around...), but golfing transportation is part of the "all inclusive" deal at Swept Away. You can actually hop on a bus and go golfing up in the mountains of Negril for an amazingly small amount of money. The Negril Golf Club is a really beautiful and manicured place. If I remember correctly, you can rent the equipment and get to speed in the golf cart all morning for under $30 per couple. The caddies are not just friendly either. With angelic patience, they can also give you excellent golfing tips.
What else can I mention. There's only one place in this resort worth visiting for dinner. It is the resort's Sport Complex annex restaurant called Feathers. Reservations are needed, unless you get on the Maitre D's good side. His name is Devon. He's a really good guy, and a very unusual employee at Swept Away because he knows his business is service, and he knows