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Caribbean Travel RoundupNewsletter - Gert van Dijken, Editor |
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The most festive of Mexican cities, with a hedonistic tropical port atmosphere, Veracruz is the capital of the state of Veracruz - the richest state in Mexico. Virtually one of the country’s undiscovered vacation spots, it has long been noted for its fine cuisine - considered to be the richest in Mexico. What gives this cuisine even more drawing power for visitors is the attractiveness of both the city and state of Veracruz. Refreshingly distinct and brazenly different from the Mexico known to foreign tourists, they have been described as Caribbean gems waiting to be discovered. Their astonishing natural beauty, fascinating history, genuinely hospitable inhabitants and, especially fine cuisine make them attractive places to visit. Few spots in the world can match the state of Veracruz in terms of diversity. The fertile-sea-of-green landscape rising from brownish-sandy beaches to the rugged Sierra Madre mountains with their cloud forests and ice-capped volcanoes, is dotted with archaeological sites and colonial cities. Many call the state a ‘garden paradise saturated with history’. On their lower slopes are to be found Mexico’s main coffee plantations. Hence, it is no wonder that throughout the state one finds the best cup of coffee in the country. The city of Veracruz was established in 1598 and immediately became Mexico’s chief harbour and until 1760 was the only port in the country permitted to trade with Spain, the mother country. Its original inhabitants, the Indians, pirates, exiled rulers, fortune-seeking settlers, as well as silver, gold, slaves, invasions and plunder - beginning with Cortez - made the city a linchpin in Mexican history. Untold tons of silver and the exotic products of the Far East, arriving overland from Acapulco, then loaded on galleons, made Spain the richest nation in Europe. The richness of the commerce attracted buccaneers and invaders. The port suffered three foreign invasions - one French and two American - and many pirate attacks. Today, this oldest and largest port in Mexico, located 345 km (214 mi) east of Mexico City, remains one of the country’s main doors to the outside world. For 400 years Veracruz has had a distinctive Caribbean-a-la-Mexico atmosphere. Here, in one of the world’s steamiest ports Caribbean and Spanish lifestyles intermingle with a Mexican flair. The city’s 1.2 million inhabitants, known as jaroches (from Jara, the Spanish word for a type of arrow), once a derogatory term but now respectable, are fun-loving, lively and more ethnically mixed than other Mexican cities. Totonaca, Spanish, African and Caribbean blend into a warm and hospitable people. Giving colour to this mixture are sailors from the four corners of the world, strolling the downtown streets and enjoying the city’s all-inclusive festive atmosphere. The people thoroughly enjoy themselves, dancing to the tunes of the musicians. When visiting the city, one can enjoy a pleasurable interlude by sitting in a sidewalk cafe edging the central plaza while nibbling on delicious seafood and watching the spontaneous entertainment often held in the square. All these historical and cultural elements have combined to produce what is considered to be the top kitchen in Mexico. The Veracruz cuisine has inherited the pre-Hispanic Indian, Arab influenced Spanish, French and African foods, then given them a regional touch. Above all, its kitchen is noted for the tasty pescado (fish) and mariscos (seafood) dishes. At the top of these foods of the sea is Huachinango a la Veracruzana (Veracruz Red Snapper) which is well known throughout Mexico. Made in various ways - each chef has her/his own special version - it is a delightful dish which has made Veracruz famous in the culinary world. No one should leave Veracruz without feasting at least once on this famous fare. Perhaps, more important to the majority of the inhabitants are black beans. They seemingly are to be found as a side dish in almost every entree. Refried, they come with eggs for breakfast and are made into a number of sauces. For flavour, throughout the state of Veracruz, the hoja santa, a leaf with an aniseed-like taste, and epazote, a unique tasting herb, used in almost all tortilla soups, is always found in a cook’s larder. These leaves seem to give Veracruz’s dishes a unique-seductive appeal which many foreign visitors appreciate. However, if one cannot travel to that historic part of Mexico, the following few dishes, simplified and adjusted somewhat to easy-to-find ingredients, will take one into the delightful world of the Veracruz cuisine. SALSA DE CAMARON - SHRIMP SAUCE 1/2 pound cooked shrimp, shelled and tails removed 4 medium tomatoes, chopped 1 small onion chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 4 tablespoons olive oil Place all ingredients in a food processer, then process for about a minute. Place on a serving platter, then serve as a sauce or as a dip with tosados or crackers. HUACHINANGO A LA VERACRUZANA - VERACRUZ RED SNAPPER Serves about 6 I first feasted on this most famous of Veracruz’s foods in Ixtapa, a resort on Mexico’s Pacific coast. However, to really appreciate this dish one must come to Veracruz where cooks vie with each other in preparing the best Huachinango a La Veracruzana in town. 3 pounds fish steaks, any firm type of fish 3 tablespoons flour, seasoned with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 hot pepper, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander leaves 2 cups stewed tomatoes 1 teaspoon capers 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 cup water vegetable oil for frying 2 large potatoes, peeled and sliced about 20 pimiento stuffed green olive Dust fish steaks with seasoned flour, then set aside Heat olive oil in frying pan, then sauté fish on both sides until pieces turn light brown. Remove and set aside, but keep warm. Add more oil if necessary, then sauté onion, hot pepper, garlic and coriander over medium/low heat for 10 minutes. Add remaining ingredients, except vegetable oil, potatoes and olives, then cover and cook over medium heat for 15 minutes. In the meantime, heat vegetable oil in another frying pan, then fry potato slices until light brown. Remove with slotted spatula and allow to drain on paper towels. Place fish on plates, then spread sauce over top. Surround with fried potato slices, then decorate with olives and serve. MOLE POBLANO DE GUAJOLOTE - TURKEY WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE Serves about 10 One of Mexico’s most famous fares, often called the ‘country’s great feast dish’, it is native to the neighbouring state of Puebla, but the Veracruzanos claim it as their own. Served on festive occasions, this simple form of the dish goes well with tortillas. 6 pounds of turkey breasts, cut into serving pieces 2 teaspoons salt 1/2 cup olive oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 medium size sweet green pepper, finely chopped 2 jalapeno hot peppers, finely chopped 5 medium tomatoes 1/4 cup raisins 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 1 slice toast, ground 1/2 cup almonds, ground 1/2 teaspoon ground aniseeds 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1/4 teaspoons ground cloves 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely ground 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh coriander Place turkey pieces and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a saucepan, then barely cover with water and bring to boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes. Remove turkey pieces and set aside to dry. Reserve the broth. Heat oil in a frying pan, then fry turkey pieces until they turn light brown. Remove from pan and set aside, but keep warm. In the same oil, adding more if necessary, sauté over medium heat onions, garlic, sweet and hot peppers and tomatoes for 10 minutes. Stir in raisins, sesame seeds, toast and almonds, then stir-fry for another 5 minutes, adding a little water if necessary. Transfer to a food processor, then add spices, chocolate, remaining teaspoon of salt and 1 cup of the turkey broth, then process for 1 to 2 minutes. Return to frying pan, then make the mole by slowly stirring mixture until gravy consistency, adding more broth if necessary. Place turkey pieces on plates, then cover with mole. Decorate with coriander and serve hot. BUÑUELOS DE ALMENDRA - ALMOND FRITTERS Makes about 36 small fritters 3/4 cup flour 1/2 cup ground almonds 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup 10% cream 1/4 cup orange juice finely grated zest of one orange 3 eggs, beaten 1 teaspoon almond extract oil for frying icing sugar Place all ingredients, except oil and icing sugar in a food processor, then process into a soft paste, adding a little extra flour or orange juice if necessary. Heat oil to about 2 inches deep in a saucepan, then spoon paste with a tablespoon, a few at a time, into oil. Fry, turning fritters over once until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and allow to cool. Sprinkle with icing sugar, then serve or store.
Saba, N.A. 3/25/02 - 4/1/02 Just returned from a week in Saba. For me, a week is not nearly enough. I’ve lost track of how many trips I’ve made, but I had not been there in a good many years so it was interesting to see the changes in the island. It was just as gorgeous as I remembered though. The beauty of this island must be experienced to be believed. Unlike most islands in the Caribbean, Saba has no beaches and is volcanic. This means that the island is relatively free from hoards of tourists and its lush mountain views can be enjoyed in peace. I stayed at Juliana’s Guesthouse and loved it. Juliana’s is right in Windwarside which is the main village on the island. I have stayed previously at a house in Flat Point which is down by the island’s famous airport and it was very nice to stay in right in the village. Franklin and Juliana are gracious hosts and they run a top-notch operation. My room was thoroughly cleaned each day and there were many thoughtful items in the room such as a flashlight for navigating at night. With your stay at Juliana’s you get breakfast at Tropics, the small restaurant just across the street. It was so nice to stroll out of my room and walk a few feet to a wonderful plate of pancakes or a light fruit and yogurt plate. I had dinner on two nights at Tropics and loved their food. I am vegetarian and was very happy with the selections. Many people were surprised that I could spend a week on Saba and not go diving. Most tourists come for the Marine Park which I understand a real treasure. I did go snorkeling with Sea Saba and enjoyed this very much. I had never been snorkeling before but took right off and had the best time. The water was crystal clear and we saw barracuda and even a shark. The folks at Sea Saba were wonderful and very friendly. Be sure to spend some time in their shop as they have the best selection of t-shirts on the island. Speaking of shopping, there is not a lot to buy on the island. If you are there for any length of time be sure to see Miss Ivy at the Yellow Store or stop in at Peggy’s for a piece of Saba Lace. Frieda at the Around the Bend shop will make Saba Lace to order and she does a wonderful job. A customized piece makes a wonderful wedding gift. The lacework is beautiful and is created by pulling threads from the cloth to make intricate designs. Another must buy is a container of Saba Spice, a local liquor. Most of the shops carry it. Saba is a photographer’s dream. If you enjoy photography bring lots of film and have a blast. The villages of Windwardside, The Bottom and Hell’s Gate are made to be photographed. In addition, you can get some great shots on the many hiking trails. Be sure to stop in at the Trail Shop which is across from Sea Saba’s shop. Ask for Shirley and have her tell you how she came to live on Saba, it is a wonderfully romantic tale. Most people do the Mount Scenery trail which goes to the top of the island’s volcanic peak. There are quite a few other trails which are really spectacular. The Sandy Cruz trail was one of the best. You start in Hell’s Gate (get a cab to take you to the start of the trail - it is difficult to find) and end up in Troy Hill on the other side of the island. The Hike takes about 150 minutes and you should bring plenty of water with you. Just down the hill from the trails end is Queen’s Garden Resort. It is a beautiful spot and you can end your hike with a swim in their pool. It is considered impolite to swim without purchasing something at the resort. We had lunch there and it was wonderful. All in all, Saba is a great place as long as you do not expect a vacation built around casinos or beaches. The pace is slow, and you will have ample opportunity to make friends with the locals. The nightlife is what you make of it and it helps to make friends on the island to find out where the parties are being held. If you are thinking of a vacation there I would be happy to answer any questions.
After some arduous security checks and re-checks in Boston and Philadelphia, we finally made it to St. Lucia. Both my wife and I have considerable Caribbean vacation experience and are always keen to compare our vacations from island to island. It was a beautiful albeit hot March Sunday that we landed in St. Lucia. The flights themselves were uneventful and fairly quick. St. Lucia is not as prosperous as some other islands like Bermuda or Grand Cayman, that was instantly evident when we walked to the airport terminal (the public beach across the road from the airport had lots of natives just hanging around looking suspicious). They're not overtly poor but it is noticeable in certain sections of the island. Customs was a pain as there were not enough customs inspectors working on a Sunday to handle the crowd. Not much we can do about that. Luckily, we found our pre-paid charter bus ready and waiting so we made it to the Royal St. Lucian resort in good time. We strongly suggest that you fly into the Vigie airport rather than the Hewanorra airport as it's a good 1+ hours ride by car. The Royal St. Lucian is a beautiful resort that boasts a good clientele of the likes of Paul Simon and George Foreman. We were greeted by the head concierge and were immediately handed one of the strongest rum punch drinks we've experienced. After a few minutes we were escorted to our oceanfront room (why would anyone not pay a little more to view such beautiful surroundings is beyond reason and opt for "garden view"?). It was a magnificent room with all the bells and whistles anyone could ask for. The view was spectacular. The resort boasts a great pool, wet bar and top notch restaurants. I won't kid you, it's one of the most expensive places to stay on the island but you get what you pay for. The staff are unbelievably friendly and sincere. I strongly recommend that men bring a pair or two slacks for dinners...it's not mandatory but you will stand out in shorts. We also took several trips out to local restaurants and sights. The stellar places were The Coal Pot and the Great House. The Green Parrott was ok but a little too touristy. We also went to a place across the street called Buzz. The food was average and the service not that good. We had the pleasure of meeting a certain taxi cab owner named Alec who was very helpful and entertaining as he took us around the island on more than one occasion. As for tourist related activities, we both enjoyed the botanical gardens and a day trip aboard an old sailing frigate called the Brig Unicorn (it's the same ship used in the movie Roots). We traveled down the west coast of St. Lucia and made a stop at Anse Le Raye. Part of the trip included going to an active volcano sight and the Pitons. The one constant complaint that we have is the none stop street vendors. The don't take no for an answer so you have to be firm with them. Unlike Grand Cayman, the government does not control these peoples' activities. It really detracts from the pleasure of taking in the island. Likewise, there is a little petty crime activity so be careful walking the downtown areas late at night; although we didn't encounter any such problems. Otherwise, the trip was fantastic, the weather was perfect too. We would certainly go again and stay at the Royal St. Lucian. Lastly, the currency can be a bit confusing...they use EC (East Caribbean) dollars. When we were there the exchange rate was approx. $2.60 ED for $1.00 US. Try to get to a bank and exchange a sufficient amount of money since the resort charges an exchange fee. Our flight home was uneventful also but obviously very depressing coming back to 45 degree rainy weather.
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