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Caribbean Travel RoundupNewsletter - Paul Graveline, Editor |
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Grand Lido Braco (formerly Braco Village) Jamaica, March 3 - 9, 1998 My husband and I have been to Grand Lido Negril a number of times. We have grown to love Jamaica, but this trip we decided to try a different location. So we planned to visit Grand Lido Sans Souci for six nights, and then moved on to try Grand Lido Braco for the same amount of time. Because there is little information available about the property on the boards and in the trip report library, I decided to make this report more of an informational "property report" rather than informing readers of our day-to-day activities and happenings. Traveling west, through Ocho Rios and into the country, along the north coastal highway, the taxi ride from Grand Lido - Sans Souci to Grand Lido - Braco (GLB) takes about 40 minutes. The resort is nestled on the ocean in the Rio Bueno district (Trelawny Parish), just West of the Rio Bueno, where it is said Columbus found his first fresh drink of water in 1492. (About 40 minutes east of Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay.) We were given a brief history of the resort: The resort opened in May 1995 as "Braco Village". Modeled after a Jamaican settlement and loosely emulating Falmouth (an ocean-side city to the west), the original resort has 180 gardenview, oceanview and beachfront rooms. The property upon which it rests was owned by the same family, Parnell, which owns much of the land along the ocean from Rio Bueno to Falmouth. One of the Parnells was once the mayor of Falmouth (see the bronze bust outside of the resort's "Courthouse"). Additionally, GLB property now includes the buildings of a never-opened family resort (which would have been known as Braco-Pebbles) that has been converted to an au natural section of the current GLB. SuperClubs took over the management of the entire property on June 15, 1997, and its official grand opening as Grand Lido Braco was on December 1, 1997. The au natural section has 52 rooms, which needed renovation from family-style to two-person-per-room maximum capacity. The resort rests on 86 acres and has over 2000 feet of beach. The architectural style is of 18th Century Jamaica, called Georgian & Gingerbread. My husband and I entered the front gate off of the main road and rode through the 9-hole golf course, between the water reservoirs and small "lakes" that are a part of GLB. Our taxi driver informed us that the football (soccer) field at GLB has served as residence and training grounds for the Jamaican national team, the Reggae Boys, who are destined for the World Cup in France in June. The driver dropped us off at the "Town Hall" to check in. The concierge, bellmen, activity directors and front office are located in this building. We were greeted with what we have come to call "Lido Treatment" which includes the traditional three forms (the credit card imprint form for incidental charges, the in-room safe information card, and the return flight confirmation form) and the opportunity for a beverage. I had an orange juice and Mike had Pepsi. Before we could finish, we were on our way through the "village" to our suite and were greeted by some friends we had made plans to meet up with at GLB. The suite - we were pleasantly surprised by the size and feel of the suite ... the largest room we have ever had in Jamaica. Located on the au natural (west) side of the resort, on the third floor, the "luxury suite" has vaulted ceilings, and one and one-half bathrooms. The Master Bedroom offers a large closet, a king-size bed with two nightstands, three lamps, a telephone, and a four-drawer dresser, a t.v. stand, and television (CNN, ESPN, TNT, USA, TBS, NBC, CBS, HBO, Cinemax and Jamaican TV) with remote. The full bathroom is adjacent to the Master BR, offering in-shower dispenser (of shampoo, shower gel and lotion), plenty of towels, an on-wall hair dryer, and soaps. The bathroom is very plain, but immaculate and new ... with a shower/tub, one sink, large vanity, large mirror and a toilet. The water temperature is difficult to control in the shower. The Master BR is on the ocean (north) side of the building, with a huge balcony overlooking the shore, offering a stunning beach view. The sitting area of the luxury suite offers a fold-out sofa (just in case you have a lovers' quarrel?), a wet bar and refrigerator (that is stocked with Pepsi, Diet Pepsi, Ting, 7 up, and Red Stripe), a coffee/tea maker, a kitchenette table with chairs, a decorative corner desk, and a four-drawer television stand complete with t.v. and remote, lamps, and a another telephone. A closet (stocked with iron and ironing board) and a tiny half-bathroom are located on the sitting room side of the suite. Oddly enough, there are two stove hot plates above the small refrigerator ... remnants of Pebbles (we were told that these would be being eliminated over time). Rooms are spacious and very clean. Light concealing curtains, tile floors, plenty of lights, two air conditioning units (one for the sitting room side, the other for the Master BR side), ceiling fans. The color scheme is playful ... lavenders, yellows and subdued tones of magenta grace the fabrics, and a pale yellow provides a nondescript backdrop. (The fabric colors in the rooms on the "normal" side are more dominant.) So many lights. But, we got the hang of light and ceiling fan switch locations by the end of our stay. There is an in-hotel television channel that outlines activities, times, locations and reservation requirements for everything that goes on in GLB. There was also a folder that had room service menus, breakfast "door hanger" menus and complementary dry cleaning/laundry information and forms. I inquired about the absence of an in-room directory describing ALL activities and amenities and was told that a comprehensive one is currently in development. There is a TV channel guide, an inter-resort phone directory, and outgoing call information located in the room. The Village - Our tour through the village began with a stop for pizza with our friends at La Pasta. We sat down to absorb the pace and feel of the "village," enjoying a Red Stripe and a Pepsi. Dining al fresco, we took in the view of blooming foliage, a quaint fountain at the center of the turnaround (town square), and the "Jamaican hustle" of employees and guests. The architecture is charming. The ambiance is relaxing. The "streets" are paved to look like cobblestone, and every so often a bicyclist passes through. La Pasta is on the west side of the turnaround. Streets approach the fountain from four directions ... one from the north, south, east and west. Continuing on - clockwise. A fieldstone staircase leads to the entrance of Piacere, the French Nouvelle cuisine restaurant. In the street rests a cart filled with iced sugar cane and coconuts. Servers teach guests how to drink the coconut water and eat cane ... authentic Jamaican treats! At night, a cart filled with roasted warm peanuts is parked here, too. Guests help themselves, tossing shells into the street. Some of our Jamaican friends who came to visit us at GLB said that the peanut cart was truly a genuine Jamaican highlight. If one takes the road to the north, there is a "casino" to the left, consisting of a collection of slot machines. Beyond the entrance to the casino is a dimly lit disco, in the decor of Jamaican dance hall. (One of our Jamaican friends who came to visit told me that the "disco" is what made her fall in love with the verifiability of GLB.) Further down the street, to the left, is the Victorian Market which offers breakfast and lunch buffets by day and is called "Diamond Room" restaurant at night. Further to the left, as if you have passed through the Victoria Market, is the soon to open Japanese Restaurant that will be called Stir Crazy. Beyond it, on the ocean shore is the new gym. The spa (see below), adjacent to the new gym, is not yet open. We were told that the gym would have an aerobic platform and superior Cybex training equipment, as well as free weights, treadmills and bikes that will be moved from the current exercise room. Although the exercise area will be open air for a time, there is talk of eventually enclosing and air conditioning it. We were also told that both of these facilities are scheduled for completion by the end of March. Backing up to the entrance of Victoria Market again, and looking further down the road, from the north one will see the unusually shaped main pool with its swim-up bar, oversized deck, cool pool bridge, and beyond that the expansive beach. My opinion - GLB spared no expense on pools. At one end of the pool, there is a "cove" that allows for a nearly full-size volleyball court set away from the rest of pool activities. During the day it seemed as if there was always a game going on there. Plenty of chaises, chairs and towels were available poolside. Crossing the street, and heading back toward the fountain, on the left (across the street from Victoria Market) is the White Gaulin, the main bar. A plaque inside says the bar is named for the white birds that pick the ticks off of Jamaica's cattle. The main bar offers inside and outside seating, as well as seating around the circular bar. I'm not sure what times the bar is open, but I never walked by and found it closed. The While Gaulin also has a piano inside, and "sing-a-long" is offered at 11:00 PM most nights. Behind the bar is a staircase that leads up to the current fitness center and the "games room," which has tabletop games, darts and pool tables. Further behind the bar is a sitting room that features Karaoke on some nights. If one continues on, behind the bar, Nanny's Jerk Pit offers authentic Jamaican cuisine ... from 11 AM to 6 PM. Thatched roof and woven place mats are just the beginning of the list of things that gives the restaurant atmosphere credibility as authentic Jamaican. A road leads from here to the east, taking guests to the first row of rooms on the normal/textile side. Backing up to the road and continuing toward the water fountain again, the White Gaulin takes up the entire "block" back to the center of town. Back at the circle, and continuing on in clockwise fashion is the Courthouse. This building serves as special meeting and function space. The steps of the Courthouse serve as the stage for the Friday night street dance. Moving along, a road leads off to the east on the other side of the Courthouse separating it from the Town Hall. If one were to go east on this road or the road in front of Nanny's, they would end up in the "main residential" area of the village. Here lie the 180 units that comprise the sleeping rooms for the original Braco Village resort. Cleverly painted in pale colors and carrying out the theme of Georgian & Gingerbread, these twelve to twenty-four unit blocks are purely charming ... with white trim and unpredictable architectural elevations, they are inviting to the eye. The units are situated in two rows, one adjacent to the length of beach to the east, and the other row of units running parallel behind the oceanfront buildings. A Clubhouse, with full bar and fast food-type service is on the eastern most end of the property, beyond the sleeping unit complexes. The Clubhouse also offers a hot tub. Beyond it lies vacant beach and fields. Again, the Town Hall is where all "business" occurs in GLB ... Concierge Celene is extremely friendly and helpful. All of the people who work at the front desk are busy but very kind. Bell men are located to the south of the Town Hall. If a guest needs anything, they should either call or stop by this building and most likely they will find help. Chelsea Galleries has a very limited collection of artwork located in the Town Hall and Courthouse. Crossing to the west side of the southbound street, a string of village shops on two levels offer almost anything one needs: toiletries, souvenirs of all kinds, cigars, coffee, Jamaican cassettes and CDs, duty free shopping, logo embellished items, lots of "Irie" and "No Problem" gizmos, clothing, swimsuits, etc. Caution: BYOB (book) ... one should not count on finding any good reading materials here. Additional shopping can be found on Wednesday and Saturday throughout the Village in a traditional Jamaican craft-market-type setup. The only thing missing from the real-Jamaican-market-experience on Wed. and Sat., is the feeling of being chased down to haggle a price on something you don't care for ... very pleasant! Before finishing the walk around the circle and returning to La Pasta, there is one more street, which runs to the west. On the left- hand side, when one's back is to the fountain, there is a dive shop with swimsuits and water/diving paraphernalia. The next door down is the nurse's station and medical center. Upstairs, there is a beauty salon that offers full-services (Miss Betty's Beauty Shoppe), and one that offers the complementary pedicure and manicure featured in the brochures. I believe the complimentary mani/pedicures will be moved to the new spa once it is complete. I took the time to have both the complementary pedicure and manicure. One should book these as soon as they arrive because it may take a few days to get in; I had to book three days out. The end-result of the mani/pedicures was beautiful, but I experienced what I have experienced so many times in the beauty shops on these vacations ... unfriendly staff. Oh, after a while the mani/pedicurist warmed up, but I don't understand why I should have to work hard to get her to be pleasant. Everywhere else on the property, the staff is pleasant ... even enjoyable and fun. If one continues on to the west, they will arrive at the au natural beach/pool/sleeping unit complex. The sleeping units separate the pool area on the southern side from the beach on northern side. Touted as the largest pool in Jamaica, the au natural pool area will certainly give any other pool a run for its money. It is vast and uniquely shaped, with a swim-up bar, a beach-sloped entry, stepped entry, many floats (flats and recliners), a bridge, and more. There are two whirlpools, one seems to be enough to seat 30 - 40 people comfortably, and the other is about a six-person hot tub removed from the main pool area and separated by plantings. There are many, many chairs, tables and chaises all around the pool, maybe 80. The unique setup offers shade as well as direct sunlight. While we were there, the au natural sleeping rooms were filled to capacity yet, because of the size of the complex, the beach and pools seemed nearly vacant. It seems as though there is enough beach/pool room for five times the number of occupied sleeping rooms on the c/o side. The sleeping unit complex runs parallel to the beach and separates the beach from the pool area. On the ocean, or northern, side are spacious private balconies. Open-air hallways connect rooms for entry on the pool, or southern, side of the building. There are 80 chaises and chairs (our friend counted) on the beach in front of the au natural side. A man-made breakwater of huge rocks keeps the surf breaking at a distance off shore. It prevents beach destruction, creating a natural barrier for safe swimming and floating. It is really quite beautiful to the eyes and ears, as well. It is very important to note that there may be guests who prefer the textile beach but who have been placed in the au natural sleeping units. For this reason, the hotel policy is for au natural guests to wear cover-ups to and from their room. Also, we asked a few questions of the resident manager during our stay and found that inappropriate/explicit behavior will not be tolerated. It will take a while for the GLB staff to learn the ropes, however the au natural security and bar staffs have been educated to be conspicuously present and to deal with explicit and/or inappropriate behavior on an individual basis. If a guest experiences or observes this type of behavior, it should be reported to security (or better yet, the manager on duty). There is a tennis court and Clubhouse (with a fast-food restaurant, beverages, ping-pong) located on this side, too. A pool table is on order for the Clubhouse. Before I even begin breaking the dining descriptions into restaurants and times, I am compelled to note that the presentation of the plated foods and the buffets is tremendous. I just don't know how they can feed so many, keeping the hot food hot and the cold food cold, and still presenting it all so beautifully. I truly enjoyed watching the workers set-up the buffet on Friday Night (see below). There was so much activity. And the food artists created displays right before our eyes. Further, I recommend that guests take time to chat with their food and beverage waiters a bit to get not only a taste of dinner, but a taste of the real beauty of Jamaica, as well. Dining Options: 7:30 - 10:30 AM Victoria Market Breakfast Buffet: No reservations. The servers along the hot buffet are outgoing-ly friendly and will explain what is in certain dishes, to the extent that they even walked along side me and explained hot entrees. More or less the hot buffet line is beautifully-displayed, but straight forward breakfast food like waffles, pancakes, French toast, scrambled eggs or eggs Benedict, omelets made to order, sausages and bacon, breakfast potatoes, and Jamaican breakfast foods. The bread display includes many types of sweet breads, breakfast rolls and muffins. Bread and bagels for toasting are available along with appropriate condiments. Also available are lots of fresh fruits, breakfast cereals and milk, hot breakfast cereal. Coffee, tea, and juice are served at the table. I did not see a breakfast menu for plated meals. 12:30 - 3:00 PM Victoria Market Lunch Buffet: Different every day, but the buffet always included an extensive hot food line (Chinese, Jamaican, German, Mexican, etc.) The buffet included many types of salads (green, pasta, vegetable, etc.), sandwich ingredients (cold cuts, cheeses, vegetables with condiments), a plentiful fruit and vegetable display, soup du jour, a huge bread display, and most importantly, a phenomenal dessert table. There seemed to be so many tempting desserts to choose from, I found it impossible to finish a meal without indulging. The food presentation was a treat for the eyes first, and the palate later. Coffee, tea, wine, juices and full bar service offered at the table. Musical note: There was the most beautiful string quintet playing at lunch every day except Sunday (on which day they played for dinner). The ensemble, called "Fantasia" was from Cuba and was only there for a few weeks, at which time they will move on t, I believe, Grand Lido - Sans Souci. Comprised of three violins, a cello and a bass (with one of the violinists trading in his strings for a clarinet occasionally), the music was impeccably performed -- classical, jazz, and contemporary favorites. The most perfect backdrop for a romantic lunch or dinner. Note: Victoria Market becomes the Diamond Room in the evening. No matter what the restaurant is being called, there is a no smoking section in this restaurant. Seats are available for groups of 2, 4, and for larger groups. During the day the dress is very casual, shorts and/or appropriate cover-ups are required, shoes and tops are required of all. In the evening, the "Diamond Room" is a little dressier ... I'd classify attire as sporty casual. Men seemed to wear dressy shorts and casual pants. Women were wearing casual dresses/skirts and dressy shorts with dressy t-shirts and casual blouses. 7 - 10 PM a la cart dining in the Diamond Room: No reservations. Menus change nightly but include appetizers, soups, salads, entrees and desserts each night. A sampling of menu items is listed below (I permanently borrowed menus to be able to print this section, but have only listed half of the items). Appetizers - Shellfish and smoked salmon terrene on a bed of marinated vegetable fettuccini with chunky avocado salsa; Pork and shrimp spring roll with Asian slaw and orange plum sauce; Open ravioli with a shrimp and mussel ragout served on a chunky tomato sauce; Pinwheel of smoked salmon and marlin in flour tortilla served with salsa picante and sweet corn relish; Crab and vegetable taco with tomato and black bean salsa; Homemade country pate with pistachios, served with a zesty island Cumberland sauce; Antipasto selection of prosciutto, shrimp, grilled vegetables, jerk sausage and mixed olives; Mushroom and escargot vol-au vent in a creamy garlic sauce; Spicy Texas chicken empanadas presented with chili, bean and avocado chutney; And many, many more. Soups - Garlic and potato soup with frizzled leeks and herb croutons; Smooth pumpkin cream with flakes of smoked capon and high- fiber croutons; Cucumber and dill soup, served icy cold; Multi-bean soup with mesquite smoked chicken; Jamaican bouillabaisse flavored with star anise and garnished with an assortment of local seafood; Jamaican pepperpot soup flavored with callalloo and garnished with local seafood; French onion soup with Swiss cheese croutons; And, many, many more. Salad -- Always a Victoria Market assortment of garden fresh leaves with tomatoes and cucumbers on the side and a choice of dressings. (My favorite was blue cheese.) Entrees - Nightly menus include many of the following, all prepared in unique, unpronounceable ways ...lamb, sole, turkey, gray snapper, New York sirloin, pork loin, brook trout, chicken, shrimp, beef tournedos, tenderloin, marlin, grouper. Piacere with dinner seating from 6:30 - 9:30 nightly, except Friday: Reservations are required, reserve with the concierge. Currently proper attire is semi-formal (no jackets were required, however long pants and leather non-sneaker shoes were for men ... dresses were appropriate for women) ... However, when the Japanese restaurant opens they will be switching to formal attire for men and women. This means leather shoes (no sneakers), jackets and collars for men - - dresses and dress shoes for women. The décor is of a sparse "islandy" floral and dim ...very pretty. Our waiter "Shorty" was just great, and friendly. A seasoned, talented harpist plays in the corner throughout dinner (phenomenal). Separate waiters carry out separate service functions: water, wine, cocktail, and food. White gloves are worn, and service is elegantly formal and impeccable. The menu was the same both nights, with the addition of a page of Chef's nightly features. We ran into the Executive Chef (during setup for the Friday night street party) and he said the menu is soon to be changed in the Piacere, so our information will not be of much value. However, we do know that the menu will change every few nights and it will continue to include a selection of appetizers, soups, salads, sorbet palate cleanser, entrée and dessert. Both evenings we enjoyed dinner with another couple, and both evenings we over-indulged in good tastes. The only thing we missed was a super-chocolate dessert (although we were able to satisfy our chocolate hankering by stopping at the bakery on our way back to the rooms). There is no smoking allowed in the Piacere, although people did step onto the balcony to have a between-course puff. Stir Crazy: Soon to open ... Japanese cuisine restaurant. Spiffy casual attire will be required, meaning no ties, no jackets ... that is all I know for now. I believe that reservations will be required, but the resort seems to be working on all of those details at this time. The restaurant is scheduled to open in April. Nanny's Jerk Pit offers authentic Jamaican cuisine from 11 AM to 6 PM daily: No reservations. Authentic Jamaican atmosphere. Menu includes: cocobread, rice and peas, jerked pork and chicken, yams, and other Jamaican standards. I did not eat in this restaurant, but I was aware that attire is very casual (cover ups and shoes required). I walked by during the day at several different times and it seemed as though this was, with exception of the clubhouses, the most casual of atmospheres at the resort. La Pasta, noon until 2:00 AM, pizza and pasta: No reservations. Attire is casual during the daylight, switching to a nighttime blend of casual and sporty casual based on the mood of the dining guests. The menu: Soup is offered each day, along with the Jamaican specialty fish tea (soup). Salad is served from the small antipasto/salad bar. Garlic bread was served in a basket at the table. Pizzas, made-to-order with an assortment of toppings to select from, take about 15 minutes to arrive to the table. Pastas were made-to-order as well. Guests select a pasta type and select from a choice of six sauces that include combinations of seafood, meats and/or vegetables. Dessert could be personally selected from the Bakery showcase (right next door) which included an array of ice creams, desserts and coffee/tea/espresso. Service at La Pasta was normally excellent or very good (waiters friendly, eager to please and efficient), but we did hit one off night on which the service was not good ...an example of how GLB is still in its polishing stages. Room service was consistent and took only 10 minutes for a pot of coffee. We never ordered anything else, although the menu is listed below: Breakfast Menu (hang on your door before bed and room service will deliver at the time you specify). Items include: Cereal, toast, bakery basket, yogurt, fresh fruit plate, coffee, decaffeinated coffee, tea, mango nectar, V-8, cranberry juice, grapefruit juice, apple juice, tomato juice, clamato juice, orange juice and milk. Standard Room Service Menu: Snacks: Nachos, Stuffed Potato Skins, and BBQ Buffalo Chicken wings with blue cheese dressing and crunch vegetables. Soup of the Day. Two Salads. Sandwiches: Braco Clubhouse, Build your own. Main Courses: Hamburger, Marinated Lamb Chops, and Grilled Boneless Chicken with cocobread. Each main course is served with French fries, tomato and pickles. Note: I hear that the lamb chops are incredible. Also, note that the hamburgers have the weird spices that all Jamaican hamburgers seem to have on them. Desserts: Tropical fresh fruit salad with toasted coconut curls, banana bread and yogurt, mint dip; Vanilla ice cream with caramelized pineapple and banana, chocolate sauce and whipped cream; Chocolate brownie. Clubhouses: There are two, one located at either end of the property; one is au natural and one is textile/normal. Both clubhouses have bars, serve the room service menu, and are distribution points for room service. Each is offers open-air service. Friday Night Jamaica Street Dance Dinner (7 PM) / Jamaica Street Dance (9 PM): This was one of the most unique evening events I've ever witnessed or been a part of. And, good food was everywhere. Food carts and food tables were set up all around the center of town. The streets were filled with dining tables, set for two or four. Buffet lines began serving without fanfare or announcement at 7 PM. I had three grilled lobster tails and to-die-for dessert. There was a special feeling to sitting in the street and dining with our friends. And, the wine didn't hurt anything, either. We had heard that the Prime Minister of Jamaica, P.J. Patterson, would be in attendance that evening. Little did we know that we selected the table right next to his. So, my friend and I flirted with P.J.'s bodyguards enough to persuade them to ask the Prime Minister for a photo with him. He obliged ... what a hoot! And the photo turned out, too. Our waiters were outgoing and friendly. We egged them on to be a little less formal. The entertainment was a street dance. Nearly everyone got up to dance to the sounds of Soca (specifically, the Dollar Dance) and a bunch of other line dances. All of the entertainment was centered on the Courthouse steps (stage) and the street in front of it. Great entertainment! If one goes to Braco, they surely should not miss this evening event. Bars: There are nine bars on the grounds, each serving top-shelf alcohol. Two clubhouses, the main "White Gaulin" bar, the main pool and the au natural pool bars, the disco bar, the Italian restaurant has a bar, as does Victoria Market, and (when it opens) Stir Crazy will, too. Note: one must specify top-shelf brand names, or call brand liquor will be served in blended/mixed drinks. My thrill: Diet Pepsi is now available in the bars. My husband's thrill: Pepsi that tastes decent is now served, too. Golf: GLB offers a nine-hole executive golf course, par three. Green fees are complimentary, but there is a rental fee for clubs. To golf, simply walk out to the clubhouse. More golf: Also, GLB provides complimentary transportation and green fees at Breezes Runaway Golf & Beach Hotel. It is an eighteen-hole world-class course about twenty minutes east of GLB. Guests pay for caddy and equipment rental. Reservations are made through the concierge's desk. Fishing: GLB has two ponds on property for fishing, one named "Fun Fishing," and the other "Fishing at Sea." Sticks and baits are available by contacting the social directors' desk. Fish that are caught will be prepared for guests at Nanny's Jerk Pit, unless fishers wish to practice catch-and-release or give the fish to a favorite employee. Spa: Scheduled for completion by the end of March 1998, the spa facilities will offer complimentary manicure and pedicure, steam room, sauna. Massages and body treatments will be available for a fee. Wines: The wines are good. I am the type of wine drinker that likes a wine simply for its taste and I had no problem finding pleasant ones to drink at GLB. GLB's wines are Chilean, French and Italian. If one is going to GLB expecting a huge selection of vintners and vintages, their expectations will disappoint. If one is a wine connoisseur, expecting the best or most expensive of wines, bring your own. Because of the import duty and tax structure in Jamaica, a $20 bottle of wine in the US becomes a $50 bottle in Jamaica. Mathematically and logically, it would be impossible to offer expensive complementary bottles to guests. We asked why the hotel does not stock better wines for sale, the answer was the same, "who will pay $50 for a bottle of wine they can get at home for $20?" Hint: if a wine is unfavorable, request a replacement. The waiters are eager to please and offer tasting prior to pouring even an individual glass. Foliage: The plantings at GLB au natural side are young, although they are full and lush on the older normal side. In a few years, the au natural grounds will be breathtaking. Grounds: The grounds are kept immaculately. I'm sure the youth of the property contributes to its ultra clean/tidy appearance. But, I know that it is also due to diligent efforts by maintenance and grounds crews ... and they were working everywhere during the day. Weddings: We were told GLB averages three weddings per day. We saw a bunch one day, and few thereafter. While the resort does have a wedding gazebo, we were informed that many of the weddings are performed among the flower gardens and on the lavish lawns of GLB. We were informed that they plan to upgrade the grounds around the existing gazebo in the near future. GLB, as with all SuperClubs, offers complementary wedding arrangements. Activities: Orientations at 10 AM and 5 PM each day Aerobics and power walks each AM except Sat./Sun. Sat. personal training Sun. Nature Hike Aquacise each AM except Sun. Additional physical training every afternoon Tennis and Golf lessons each AM and PM Beach and pool volleyball Golf Tennis Golf and Tennis Tournaments Fishing Misc.: Music Trivia, Scavenger Hunt, Drink Mixology, International Trivia, Pool Olympics, Jamaican Cooking Class, Pool Tournament, Jamaican History Class, Jamaican Trivia Quiz, Table Tennis Tournament, Domino Tournament, Treasure Hunt. Truly Unique Activities: TeaLeaf Reading, Fortune Reading, Crab Racing. Nightly entertainment: Special nights are Friday (Jamaica Street Dance Celebration) and Wednesday (Beach Party Show and Fun and Games). Lunch Entertainment each day, with "Lunchtime Funtime" at 2 PM. 10 PM nightly DanceHall Disco opens Karaoke and Sing-a-longs every night at 11 Pajama Party at 11:30 PM Thurs. Water Sports: Complementary SCUBA diving, wind surfing, sailing, snorkeling and water-skiing. Free lessons are provided for beginner SCUBA diving. And, PADI Certification is provided at additional cost. Notes: Once I am there, I tend to forget why we keep returning to the all- inclusive type of resort. I forget, that is, until we arrive at the airport on our way home and we have to pay more than a buck for stale coffee. We're no dummies, we know we pay up-front, but we enjoy the feeling of not paying for stuff every time we turn around. Locking our money in the safe is relaxing. Consequently, all- inclusive is the way to go on vacation for us (or, my husband would have us eating at Burger King on a nightly basis). The no tipping policy simplifies things, too (although my husband and I do bring along candy bars to give away). Why is it the coffee always tastes better in Jamaica? I don't know, but it sure is the truth. Even Blue Mountain coffee brewed at home is not the same. The beach rivals the beauty of any I've ever seen. We did not notice any mosquitoes at GLB. While we were there it was very windy, so that may have factored into the mosquito-less visit...? Other than wind, we had great weather, with drizzly rain on our arrival day only. And, I never needed a sweater or sleeves at night. Our friend told us the ocean floor is quite rocky, so aqua socks might help if one is planning on swimming. Housekeeping -- is timely, complete, and the gals seem pleasant. We had beautiful towel sculptures on our beds after housekeeping and after turndown service. Pack lightly --use laundry and dry cleaning services you have paid for. There seemed to be an abundance of beach towels and beach chairs/chaises everywhere. Those who normally get up early to mark their chair and grab a towel may sleep in at GLB. Chocolate -- For me, the equation is Chocolate + Sun = Vacation. Everyone has their own tastes, but I think there is a slight shortage of the stuff on dessert menus. Although, trust me and my bathroom scale, there were plenty of other awesome desserts available! Massage -- my husband signed up for a massage through Miss Betty's Beauty Shop. It was the one service we paid for during our visit. The cost for one hour and fifteen minutes was $80. He looked like he had melted afterward, saying he had never had a better massage (and the man has had plenty). The Fruit Lady - A middle-aged Jamaican woman walks around the property in an 18th Century peasant dress and her Nikes. She carries a basket of fruit. I had fresh coconut and it was awesome. I was told she serenades guests, too, although I did not hear her for myself. She is a memorable addition to the feel of the place. Remember, Jamaicans have their own pace... a Jamaican hustle is in slow motion. Perhaps it comes from the heat. If you don't slow down and enjoy your vacation, all you will get is upset that things are not moving at rush hour pace. Relax, settle into the Jamaican timing and enjoy. Jewel in the rough -- It is evident that GLB is diligently working at the polishing stages of resort infancy. From discussions with various managers during our visit, we found that the resort is pursuing a diligent training schedule in all areas. The service shortcomings are rarely noticeable here and there, but so are the giant efforts of the employees ... They really are trying! My guess is that by mid-summer or early fall the service at GLB will compete with the best any resort anywhere has to offer. Service with a smile - as I said, any service shortcoming is nearly excuse-able because of the efforts and pleasantries of the servers. Bottom line, I plan on returning!
Feb. 25 - March 3, 1998 Because I recently filed a trip report (Jan. 8 - 14 trip dates) for Grand Lido Sans Souci -- posted in the February 1998 "Caribbean Travel Roundup" -- I will merely note any changes, improvements that were observed on this trip. Also, I will include the observations of my husband, who was a first-timer to GLSS (Grand Lido Sans Souci). "Welcome Home," was the warm salutation we received from Mr. Smith and Mark Lee upon our arrival through the gate. Indeed, it felt like I was "coming home" after just leaving five weeks earlier. Initially there were no noticeable changes ... the same upscale attention at check-in, the same three forms to fill out (credit card imprint for phone calls, return flight information, and in-room safe form). We were offered beverages, which arrived in just moments. And, friendly familiar faces came to greet me and meet my husband. We were shown to our room, a beautiful suite in the D block ... There were quite a few stairs between the lobby and our room. My husband pointed out that he now understands why so many guests talk about all of the steps at GLSS. Noticeable immediately was the charm and greenery of the resort. I thought we were extremely lucky to have such a great view of the main beach and ocean from our suite. Immediately after unpacking we began to walk around, first up the main beach to the new (au natural) beach. (All of this is described in detail in the earlier trip report). With landscaping nearly complete, I noted that the workers had made great progress in the plantings. Along the main beach there is an area that is all rocks, sand and cactus. There are huge areas of tropical plantings between the new beach and the "A" (new) room block. And, all of the plantings immediately surrounding the "A" room block and the new pool are complete and beginning to flourish. No expense or effort has been spared with the landscaping around the new areas. Good news for c/o-ers, there were people at the au natural beach (there were very few in January). The beach was 100% complete: the swim up bar was working, the pools were done, the waterfall at the center of the swim pool was operating, towels were available, bathrooms were functioning. The only thing not up-and-running was the beach grill (although the structure is finished) ... one could call and order room service for delivery. Truly, this new beach is lovely. All of the plantings are complete. There are plenty of chaises. One thing I had not noticed before was that chaises could be placed right in the shallow end of the pool with the water just kissing the bottom of the lounger. Many guests were enjoying this pool feature. Also, one could swim underneath the water fountain into a "cave" that has shelves for relaxing, and water jets, too. GLSS's biggest challenge will be getting the beach to become known. In an effort to keep the c/o beach au natural, and to prevent textile sun-seekers from adopting this beach an extension of their own, we were told the resort plans to put up tactful signs. They will say something like, "this is a clothing optional beach, please exercise the option or use the main beach area." As we continued our walk of the property, we discovered a few hidden areas that I had not found on my earlier trip. There are a couple of short stairways that go nowhere ... remnants of old amenities. There are two entrances to the aviary, not just one as I had thought. Incidentally: Charlie, the resident turtle, is a girl. I believe GLSS is one of the most beautiful resorts in the world. My husband concurs on its beauty. We meandered through the grounds for quite a while on several days, just taking in the resort's gracefulness and charm. The service is nearly impeccable, and consistently so. I am still trying to convince my husband that he should call me "My Lady," as do all of the waiters and waitresses at GLSS. Once again, I enjoyed the spa treatments (I indulged in all four: body scrub, reflexology, massage and facial). My husband took in a massage and reflexology, and was able to book a second massage later in the week. Although he loved all of the treatments, he wished that the massages could be an hour long, instead of a half-hour (even if it meant paying for it). I offered to transfer my half- hour massage to him, but it is against spa policy to transfer treatments between guests or to book for more that one of the same type of treatment at a time. Also, additional or extended treatments cannot be purchased in the spa area. Yoga is a unique amenity, and I found it to be one of the highlights of the trip (again!). The morning workouts were enjoyable, at a challenging pace, but not designed to overdo. Laundry service was so quick ... same day turnaround for laundry and 48-hour turnaround for dry cleaning. Everything came back intact. Point of interest: we were there for the 80% eclipse. To prevent eye injury, a note was slipped under our door the night before to inform us of the times we would need to be cautious. Other notes were also slipped under our door during the course of the week. Notes included a greeting, dining options and departure information. One change in services included dining options, with the addition of Bella Vista (Exhibition Cooking) and Café Lido (A La Carte Dining) on high occupancy nights. Dinner was served in both locations from 7 - 9:30 PM. No reservations were required and dress was spiffy casual. Bella Vista was located on the level below the lobby terrace, and Café Lido was offered outside of the lobby. We indulged in both on different nights and found the food and service - - as well as the open-air dining-- to be very pleasant. My husband is less than an adventuresome eater, unlike myself. Some days he had luck finding simple lunch at Ristorante Palazzina, and on others he did not. We agreed that the food looks fresh and is displayed beautifully, and I always found plenty of taste-bud pleasers. On the days in which the food was more ethnic or exotic in the Ristorante Palazzina, we ate at the beach grill. Lunch there is good, and includes pork, chicken, fish, French fries, hot dogs, and hamburgers with or without cheese... jerk sauce is available. A Jamaican specialty called "nun bread" is served at the beach grill, too. It is bread that has been baked around a spiced sausage, yum! Another lunch option includes ordering off of the room service menu. There certainly is no shortage of great tasting food for lunch at GLSS. My husband likes his steaks, etc. without sauces and vegetable toppings ... he learned that, at GLSS, one can order a steak without sauces in many cases, which makes him very happy. In some cases, the meat is marinated, in which case they try to please him by replacing the steak with another cut that has not been marinating. The restaurant staff was very pleasant and accommodating to his special requests. We were asked by "the Sans Souci family" to be a guest at the Manager's Cocktail Party and to be seated for Friday's gala at a reserved table for repeaters. Repeat guest were acknowledged and we were given a gold Grand Lido Sans Souci pin with the image of Charlie the turtle on it. Very nice treatment. A note about dining: Reservations are required for Casanova and La Terazza. Bella Vista and Café Lido are not open every night. To avoid awkward dinner arrangements, dial 6 or 7 early in the day, check the ethnic dining feature for the evening at La Terazza, and make reservations if you so choose. If you have a reason to celebrate on a specific day, make your reservations as soon as you arrive to be sure seating in the restaurant of your choice at your desired time. Dress requirements: During the daytime, guests wore nice cover-ups and shorts outfits all over property (except on the beach where swimsuits ruled). In the evening, the only place where formal attire is required is Casanova, which requests jackets and leather shoes (no tennis shoes) for men, and dresses for women. The Café Lido, Bella Vista, and La Terazza were all spiffy casual to semi- formal. At ShowTime, guests were wearing everything from casual to formal. RE Stairs: Make sure to pack comfortable non-skid shoes for walking the many stairs throughout the property. The stairs add so much charm and personality to the resort, but one must be careful. The greenery is so lavish, it is the perfect mosquito breeding ground ... pack mosquito repellent and use it in the evenings. While we were there, GLSS was filled to capacity. Yet, we experienced A-1 service and were amazed at how "un-crowded" the resort felt. I guess there are just so many dining options, and pools, and nooks and crannies for guests to choose from. It seemed to me, the resort caters to spoiling the guest, and making for each guest a vacation that is most carefree. As always, the way I measure the service, facilities and amenities of a resort is by answering the question, "will we return?". The answer, for GLSS from both my husband and me is, "most definitely."
(Ed Note: Part 1 of Tom Carroll's Martinique trip appeared in the February 1998 CTR. More will follow in the May 15h edition)
On our return from the southern Windwards we anchored in La Baie de
Fort-de-France at Anse Mitan across from Ft de F near the same spot
we had departed from three weeks before. The bay is over four miles
wide here, making the view something like staying in Sausalito and
looking at San Francisco across the water, a comparison
exaggerating F de F's size but not its picturesque appearance.
Our anchorage sheltered us from the prevailing winds in about 15' of
water with "good holding", a term referring to the superiority of
certain sea beds over others in clenching the anchor. What's good
for the anchor is even better for the skipper. Good holding means a
sound night's sleep either on board or, in our case, ashore while
the boat is left unattended at anchor. Leaving the boat this way
may risk mishap, since the anchor can unexpectedly drag if the wind
picks up or shifts in direction, but continued calm conditions were
forecast here for the next 48 hours so we decided to spend two
nights ashore.
TROIS ILETS
The anchorage was in a cove between the dock at Hotel Le Bakoua and
the town of Anse Mitan. This location is centrally located in the
district known as Trois Ilets which is made up of the areas known as
Anse a l'Ane, Anse Mitan, Pointe du Bont (the peninsula section of
Anse Mitan), and the town of Trois Ilets itself. Combined with
nearby Diamant, this is the island's main tourist area with its
highest concentration of hotels, restaurants and nightspots.
From the water Bakoua presents almost a terraced effect by
meandering horizontally over a bayfront hillside. Its next door
neighbor, Le Meridien Trois-Islets, proceeds vertically in a high
rise testimonial to its architect's lack of panache. Fairness to
the architect and his creation dictates a disclosure: crew and I
were unceremoniously barred from that joint's casino due to wrong
attire (no shorts allowed) and no ID. Had the ID been for age I
would have been in a forgiving mood. But they invoked a bizarre
rule that obliges casinos in Martinique to see picture ID for
everybody. How would Atlantic City gamblers possibly anticipate
such a rule, accustomed as we are to anonymity? The crew suspected
selective enforcement - - maybe from our nautical appearance they
took us for card sharks. Anyway, I will stick with the opinion
expressed earlier - - although this hotel is known for its disco and
shows, it still looks like it's meant for a convention, not
Caribbean holiday. Short walking distances away and likewise on
the bay are the three star Novotel Carayou and PLM Azur La Pagerie,
both of which I inspected on my rounds and found very pleasant, very
French and very reasonably priced.
The Trois Islets district has many fine shops and boutiques of mixed
price ranges. Most are centered at the Pointe du Bout Marina about
a mile from a smaller marina at Bakoua. I assume that in high
season this particular area really hops but now things were only
moderately busy. I bought a small mahogany carving and a piece of
local pottery as gifts, passing up the colorful Madras print cloth
and coral jewelry which are local favorites. Overlooking the marina
are several attractive open-air restaurants, not of gastronomic
quality but good places for lunch, light dinner or just to have some
refreshment while watching the marina scene. Naturally, the nearby
hotels also have their own restaurants.
There's certainly not much chance of going hungry around here.
There is yet another restaurant district in Anse Mitan proper, a
mile or so to the south, with numerous places centered near the
dock, along the beach and farther inland. Regal de la Mer and La
Villa Creole, both a little pricey, are not far from the beach and
both looked fine. We opted one night for their competitor,
L'Langouste, located at a breezier location on the water' s edge at
the foot of the dock. Food and service were ok, the bayside
atmosphere was better.
Early one morning I walked around Anse Mitan for a little exercise
and passed more restaurants a 1/4 mile inland, Le Poisson d'Or and
two casual places, Fannys and Creperie, as well as a Spanish place,
El Patio, all located on the road to Pointe du Bout. After a while
I reversed direction and headed west on the same road towards Anse a
l'Ane. I hadn't walked far when I was hassled by some unleashed and
unfriendly dogs. From past Caribbean walks I should have known
better than to have walked stickless in this semi-rural, unfamiliar
area. Dogs untutored in geniality towards tourists sometimes bother
back road walkers, especially at an odd hour like 6:30 a.m. My
retreat nipped both the dogs' plans and my own, the latter being to
survey the three star Frantour hotel and the small restaurant
section of Anse a l'Ane. We did see the town from the water,
however, since the Anse Mitan ferry stops here. It looked inviting
and less developed than other parts of Trois Islets.
The restaurants of the Trois Islets district might remind a traveler
of St. Martin's Marigot or maybe even Grand Case. St. Martin
restaurants generally serve traditional French cuisine rather than
the creole style served here. Price ranges are pretty close, St.
Martin may be a little higher. Setting and ambience are
comparable though there's no fun like menu-strolling along the
restaurant row in Grand Case, with so many fine restaurants right
along the beach, and there's no good-priced outdoor bar-b-ques here
like found in GC. Overall, I'd give the edge to St. Martin for
restaurants, but it's close.
There's nightlife activity around here but part of our crew was
underage and the sea air was knocking out their seniors pretty
early. To get the latest on nightlife and what's happening here
generally, look for a free publication known as "Choubouloute"
available at the hotels and many restaurants.
FORT DE FRANCE
The way to beat the traffic congestion for a trip to Ft de F is to
go dock to dock via one of the high speed harbor ferries from Trois
Islets. The Pointe du Bout ferry runs from the marina of same
name. We took the nearby Anse Mitan ferry which originates from the
Langouste Dock and as noted also stops at Anse a L'Ane. The fare was
nominal for this 20 minute ride, the sea air familiar. I believe
there's a third ferry, this one from the town of Trois Islets but we
did not get over there to check it out.
At first blush Ft de F would make you think you were in any other
Caribbean cruise ship port - - noisy, congested and wall-to-wall
with shops. But Ft de F is a cut above most by being notably clean,
comparatively orderly and big enough to have something for
everybody. There's a good attractive tourist info center near the
ferry dock. The shopping area is one of the largest and most varied
I've seen in the Caribbean. We browsed around with no particular
shopping objective in mind, maybe missing bargains on French imports
known to those who researched an attack plan in advance.
The guidebooks say that the city and its environs contain
interesting museums, galleries, gardens and restaurants but I can't
vouch for this since on our walking tour we stayed pretty close to
the waterfront. Our second visit was via rental car when we drove
along Boulevard du General de Gaulle en route to the airport giving
us a sense of the city's impressive scale and overall positive
character. We were dismayed, though, to discover that some of the
hilly backdrop that we admired from across the bay actually
contained areas of conspicuous poverty and shacks. These sights were
a counterpoint to Martinique's generally prosperous appearance but
did not change my opinion that Paris pampers and subsidizes this
island big time. However, the shacks served as a reminder that
this is the Caribbean, not France. Over 90% of the population here
are descended from slaves. Only a small - albeit very influential
- minority are "beke" or descendants of the elite French
planters.
Afoot, we saw the scandalously elaborate La Bibliotheque Schoelcher,
the town's public library. Constructed during the l9th century in
Paris to be transported here in pieces, its style is called
Romanesque-Byzantine, an eye popping blend of the most outrageous of
both cultures. It sets a stylish tone for the city, parts of which
reminded me of New Orleans with narrow streets and ornate iron work
balconies. A good example is the section around the Cathedrale
Saint- Louis a few blocks from the library. Likewise afoot, we
learned a paramount lesson for touring the city: F de F is too
large to walk around, especially in the summer heat - hire a cab if
you want more than just a sampling.
I walked into the city's central park, La Savane, the size of
several Rittenhouse Squares in Philadelphia, looking for the
statute of Josephine, Napoleon Bonaparte's empress and a
Martiniquais by birth. The statute was beheaded a while ago in
protest of her pro-slavery views. Instead, I ended up watching les
flics flourish their batons as they rousted marijuana smokers - -
rasta and otherwise. The round-up deprived the herbalists of the
high-minded shadiness they sought under the towering palms famous
here.
The crew decided to tour nearby Fort St. Louis but they found that
an advance request was necessary for full access to its
embattlements and secret tunnels. Our rendezvous was at the outdoor
cafe on Boulevard Alfassa to sip aperitifs before catching the
ferry, or vedette as it's known here, back to Anse Mitan.
HOTEL LE BAKOUA
Outward bound, our first crew had overnighted on the boat. But on
the return visit with new crew we left the boat at anchor to take a
room at the top-rated Bakoua for two nights. As travelers under
sail, we were outlaws, acting in violation of the immigration and
customs laws. We had "cleared out" of Martinique several weeks
before and were now required to "clear in" which we had not yet
done. We rationalized that schlepping across the bay a second time
to Fort de France, the nearest port of entry, was unwarranted in
Martinique's national interests, and certainly ours. Marin was
only days away and we could clear in there when we returned the
boat. Besides, all this pointed to downtime and delays. Once we
finally found the right office we would probably cool our heels
while the inevitable happened - - the guy ahead of us would be
there to clear in a Tibetan cruise ship whose passengers would be
seeking political asylum. Precise compliance with these rules - -
rules formulated by tax collectors for efficient revenue
raising, not efficient use of travelers' vacation time - - can be
a recurring nuisance for interisland sailors. But the fines are
stiff if they catch you. Based on past experiences in Guadeloupe,
St. Bart's and St. Martin, I relied upon the French reputation for
not being enforcement-obsessive, at least for charter vacationers
flying a French flag as our boat did. So we took our chances.
There was no problem.
Most island visitors begin their hotel stays conventionally: they
catch a cab or van from airport or dock and show up at the front
door of the hotel, most often in snappy travel togs. Orthodoxy of
arrival speaks volumes about one's substance, sort of an implicit
portfolio of credentials. But travelers under sail arrive
differently. Refugees may be too strong a word but their
appearance and circumstances are definitely out of sync with the
norm. They walk up with a briny, disheveled look, carrying their
own bags. Their mannerisms may be normal but their eyes betray a
felonious disposition - - after all, some have only recently
breached the frontier. No portfolio of credentials is evident.
They've probably come from the anchorage via the shortest means,
which may bring them into reception by something other than the main
entry, maybe even out of breath and looking over their shoulders.
In some Caribbean countries they must involuntarily romp and tumble
with guard dogs that patrol remote parts of upscale establishments.
It speaks well of the public order in Martinique that Bakoua has no
dogs, or at least no alert dogs since we saw none. Ditto for the
alertness of their security guards.
We espied Bakoua from the sea, landed by stealth and after a short
march took her without resistance.
As is our practice, we sought "walk-in" rates for our two nights.
The desk clerk was indifferent to our pitch about the perishability
of unsold room space and rejected our request. I did not appeal
the point to management because the room rate was pretty good as it
was, 875ff. At the current exchange rate, that worked out to about
$150 per room for each night, double occupancy including breakfast,
less than I expected. With the dollar growing stronger I actually
got the room for $145 by the time it was posted to my credit card.
Hey, 10 small is 10 small.
Things got even better when the following happened: with the boat
parked outside and the meter running I always seek the lowest priced
room on these land forays. But the room we got - remotely located
and decorated ascetically like a budget monastery - was an insult
even to a lowballer. At least at Martinique's finest hotel it
was. Naturally, we took umbrage, interpreting this as a Gallic
snub. In truth, I guess, it may just have been the clerk's
revulsion at first being asked for walk-in rates followed by a
request for "the cheapest sleep in the joint, s'il vous plait".
Anyway, we complained and were promptly shown to a premium bayfront
room priced at 1250 ff ($211.) per night that - - how sweet it
was - - we got for the same price as the first room. Hey, now we're
talking l.32 large.
Chutzpah didn't hurt, but during slow season I suspect that Bakoua
gets the posted room rate only from chumps.
Hotel Le Bakoua is managed by the well regarded Sofitel group which
contributes to its high reputation. The hotel consists of 138 air
conditioned rooms and suites spread over multiple landscaped acres.
Most have balcony or terrace providing views varying from garden to
bay and Ft de F. Our room looked directly over the bay and was
satisfactorily, though not palatially, appointed - marble
bathroom, safe/bar, the usual - but was surprisingly small by U.S.
luxury hotel standards. Actually, it was small by any standards.
Oddly, our monastic room had been larger, a good bit larger, though
with an undistinguished garden view. The bayfront room had a nifty
four poster bed with a sleeping chamber effect created by what I
believe was mosquito netting though it may have been purely
decorative. We saw no skeeters.
Bakoua is, of course, a full service resort catering
JAMAICA
French vacationers. The concierge spoke perfect English but most
other staff were considerably less fluent, though not to the
detriment of helping us with routine things. The on-site
restaurants, bar, pool and beach area were high style and bustling,
just what we expected from a place favored by those with European
type A personalities. The reception and other public areas had an
international elan, a function of the animation exuded by Romance
language travelers. It is no slight of this very fine property to
say that Bakoua's world class bearing is due as much to its
fashionable clientele as its physical presence.
As might be expected, with all this sea-time behind us we skipped
the swim-up floating bar and the beach. The latter was a little
crowded. It may have been equally available for use by non-guest
weekend beachgoers, although I'm not certain about that.
Snorkeling is done right off the beach. I meant to check out the
dive shop since crew and I were both PADI certified divers but I
understood that FWI diver certification standards are different. I
never got around to it since we ended up just lazing around,
resisting anything requiring the expenditure of energy.
Freshwater swimming is a great luxury if you've been a saltwater
captive so we spent a good bit of our leisure time at the swimming
pool. The location of the pool itself was stunning. Set on the
very brink of a precipice overlooking the bay, it afforded a
breathtaking view of Ft de F across the harbor and the tall
mountains beyond. When not in the pool we could be found behind
our sunglasses checking out the clientele from our spot at the
fashionable poolside bar, Le Grommier, and sipping ti-punches.
"Ti", by the way, means "small" and refers to a diminutive drink of
rum, sugar syrup and lime served, at least here, with olives and
nuts. "Punch" sort of depreciates its purity, it is just about
straight rum. Of course, maybe "punch" refers to its effect, not
ingredients. In that sense the term is perfectly accurate -
though in that case "ti" would then be depreciative.
Speaking of checking out the clientele and breathtaking views, the
pool and beach areas were optionally topless. That, along with
occasional clothing optional beaches, should certainly come as no
surprise to travelers since it's a well known trademark of the
French West Indies. It can still take-ur-breath-away. We were
lunching at La Sirene, the hotel's beach bistro, when I spotted a
particularly attractive woman with an oversized duffel bag sitting
on the beach. She was selling two piece women's bathing and beach
attire. I was too far away to hear voices but a shopper must have
said something like, "I wonder how that would look when it's worn",
or words like that. The next thing I knew this spectacular sales
lady was modeling suits on the beach without a changing room, if you
get my drift. It was one of the finest lunch hours I've spent in
the Caribbean, perhaps anywhere. I had only one complaint - - the
duffel bag held so few bathing suits. Anyway, selling bathing
suits this way could lead to a wholly different attitude about beach
vending.
Dinner was in the candlelit main dining room, Chateaubriand, fully
open on three sides to the outdoors and furnished in the heavy,
highly polished mahogany pieces favored in Martinique. We received
a gift of the greatest and rarest order - - an unsolicited superb
table - - offering an artist's view of the harbor and the distant
capital's twinkling lights. Attire was a little snazzier than many
places, the women diners were all smartly dressed and the men were
in trousers and dress shirts including some, though not myself, in
sports jackets. The fine table appointments were in keeping with the
high style of the prixe-fixe, multi-course, gastronomic meal.
French/Creole haute cuisine in every respect, the menu was
complemented by - - what else - - an impressive list of French
wines. Service was satisfactory though I would have preferred a
bit of groveling at these prices. Dinner music for the 100+ diners
was provided by a vocalist and 7-8 piece band which played mostly
Latin. The custom among the European and South American guests here
is to dance throughout dinner, promoting both festiveness and
fitness, though some might find the practice a dining intrusion. We
did not, believing it to be a fine idea and pleasant diversion. The
desserts were proximate occasions to sin; the after dinner drinks
an intoxicating finale.
As the harbor lights twinkled, the music played and the wine flowed
I spoke aside to my own memory. "Memory, put before me an incident
from my past life that is most reminiscent of tonight". Memory
faltered but in the spirit of things conjured up an image based on
the pretense that my life normally imitates art: "It was in Cannes
or possibly Cote de Azure in the 60's; you had just driven down
from Le Grand Chateau de M. Carroll in your Porsche Spyder; Cary
Grant and Grace Kelly were at your table and both were laughing
uproariously at your wit..."
It was just that kind of place, just that kind of night.
For our two mornings here the buffet breakfast rounded out our
dining pleasures, partially due to the setting but mainly due to an
amazing array of breakfast foods capable of satisfying the largest
appetites and the most demanding tastes. From the breakfast area
we could see out towards Ilet a Ramiers where boats were assembling
for a yawling regatta. These are distinctive local boats, called
yoles rondes, which sport huge, square, colorful sails. It was our
good fortune to be on the island at the time of the Tour des Yoles
Rondes, the annual regatta of these boats.
PITT CLERY
On Sunday afternoons cockfights are held at rural "pitts". I hired
a cab for the afternoon to visit the one at "Pitt Clery". I grew
suspicious that my cabbie was a humane society operative. He quoted
a fare so whopping that he must have intended to deter me from
aiding and abetting cruelty to fowls. I negotiated the price
downwards though it still would have been cheaper to have rented a
car and dined on a flock of deluxe chicken dinners. But with a
rental car I would never have found this rural spot and whether for
perversity or just plain curiosity I wanted to see this. We drove
on secondary roads through well tended farmlands and quaint interior
villages through the Ducos district to a location that I believe was
in the Riviere Pilote district, 40 minutes from the hotel. I
express uncertainty on this because there are pitts in both
districts and I am not sure where Pitt Clery in particular was
located.
There was a small admission charge to the pitt, a boarded enclosure
housing an indoor circular ring surrounded by tiered wooden
bleachers. The bleachers, by the way, are best suited for an
audience of acrobats, access requires the kind of unexpected
dexterity that would make U.S. personal injury lawyers rich. It was
a hardscrabble kind of place. There were a lot of weathered farmers
milling around plus 50 or so tourists who were all French with the
exception of two guys holding videocams - - myself and one other
American. Two cockfights were staged over the afternoon although
the matches themselves each lasted only about 5-l0 minutes. The rest
of the time was devoted to taking bets and preparing the birds in a
very exacting and exaggerated way. One description of cockfighting
I read after returning home claimed sharpened blades are attached
between the bird's talons. It did not appear this was done here
but I can't say for sure. The handlers preen and strut in emulation
of their roosters, or perhaps the converse. I had understood losing
roosters next appear served up fried but it did not happen that
way. Here, when things starting going badly the owners conceded and
removed their defeated birds from the ring, pecked and bedraggled
but not terminal, though this may have been a concession equally
directed to tourist sensibilities.
The same cannot be said for the final attraction - a snake vs. a
mongoose, held elsewhere on the grounds in an 8' by 8', low, glass
enclosed cage. The mongoose dispatched the snake, a deadly
poisonous fer de lance. Nobody intervened to help out the snake.
There was no betting on that event and most of the farmers didn't
even drift over with the tourists to watch. It is actually sort of
a show designed to improve the gate by offering a spectacle loosely
symbolic of Martinique's past. There was an era here when these
snakes were a dreaded scourge and mongeese, their natural predators,
were imported to eliminate them. Today, the snakes are much fewer
in numbers, found only in very remote areas. Whatever the
background, the furry little guy did credit to his heritage and was
definitely the crowd favorite.
My advice: unless you're the kind who likes to bet on anything or
you have some kind of fetish for ruffled roosters or interspecies
combat, I'd give the pitt a pass. There's lots more interesting
things to do.
STE. ANNE
We motorsailed from Anse Mitan southeast to Ste Anne, a distance of
15-18 miles. For the last two-thirds of the trip the shortest
course put us directly into the wind. We could have headed out to
sea and taken a long tack back to land. But a predicted tropical
depression (rain and winds ranging up to 30 kts) was acting like it
wanted to become a tropical storm, a serious piece of weather that
is only one notch below a hurricane. The weather was causing some
damage in Barbados and was forecast to be upon us by evening. So we
decided to give ourselves a time cushion by use of the "iron sail" -
- the auxiliary diesel engine - - and motored directly to our
destination. When we got to Ste Anne I radioed our charter company
for a weather update. They recommended we continue onward to base
because the conditions remained unsettled. But a recommendation in
these circumstances is short of a "recall" of the boat - -
mandatory return to base - - so we decided to stick with our
plans. This may have been rash but we were loathe to end our trip
early. As it turned out, the night brought wind and rain
characteristic of a mild tropical depression but we weathered it
without complication.
As we approached the anchorage we caught a glimpse in the distance
of Martinique's reputedly best beach at Grande Anse des Salines
almost at the southern tip of the island. Time limits confined us
to Ste Anne itself so we did not explore this district. We had
passed nearer to Salines during our earlier trip to St. Lucia and
had seen this remote strand is white, wide and picturesque,
supposedly great for a day at the beach though not much for
snorkeling. Beyond our view were beaches which continue around the
eastern side where it is said there are seaside eateries. A U.S.
magazine article spoke well of a former plantation house around
here, Manoir de Beauregard, recently restored after a fire and
either just re-opened or about to re-open. This district's
remoteness is underscored in an April, l995 CTR article describing
how the author and his wife got lost for several hours while on a
walking tour from Cap Chevalier over the low hills near the
southeast coast.
Ste Anne is a pretty little seaside town that has a half dozen
decent restaurants and one three star hotel, Anse Caritan. Above
the town is a sizable religious shrine clearly visible from the sea
on the approach. The anchorage here may not be fully protected but
it is nonetheless my favorite in Martinique, sheltered as it is from
the trades and wide with easy anchoring, excellent holding and an
accessible dinghy dock - a place well suited to ride out the
weather we experienced on our last night. It's a great spot for
viewing a natural light show at dusk when the setting sun casts
dramatic light, color and shadows on the town and hills to the
east. We visited the town twice, strolling around its several
blocks and eating ashore both nights. We passed up the top rated
Poi et Virginie for the more casual Athanor and La Dunette both of
which were relaxed places serving creole meals. Prices and food at
the two were about equivalent. La Dunette's outdoor dining room
overlooks the sea giving it the edge for location but Athanor had
live musical entertainment including a waitress who wore two hats,
with credit to both. Mornings we made our usual trip into town for
fresh baked goods. We successfully followed the local advice to
"let your nose be your guide".
La Dunette is also a hotel, rated two star. The author of the
referenced article found both the hotel and the restaurant
unsatisfactory during his l995 visit. The restaurant has either
improved or maybe we are more tolerant. His commentary on the hotel
might be useful to anyone considering a two star place. The author
points to issues that came up like whether he would get clean towels
each day. I was game to try a two or one star spot for comparison
purposes - always game for a good deal - but found no way to
obtain reliable advance info about individual places. Few have
stateside representatives and we suspected quality probably varied
considerably from place to place. Our travel circumstances favored
reliance on more dependable, though naturally more expensive,
higher ranked places.
A color booklet containing photos and short promotional narratives
on "Les Relais Creoles", the smaller hotels (which can be 3-4 stars
but are mainly 2 and below) is available from the Martinique
Promotion Bureau, 444 Madison Ave., 16th Floor, New York, N.Y. 10022
(800-39l- 4909 or 212-838-7800) (http://www.nyo.com/martinique).
The narratives are puff pieces probably composed by the owners
themselves but at least there are pictures and a listing of
amenities for each one. MPB also has available a comparable
booklet on the larger hotels as well as general tourist info.
On the morning of the thirty-first day we attended to our
customs/immigration duties and relinquished the boat that had
served us so well. Our mourning for fun's passage was offset by a
little brightness: a day and a half remained in Martinique by the
providence of our return reservations being for the next day. So we
rented a car and continued overland. As it turned out, it was more
that just a little brightness - - there was much more good stuff
to see and do.
Next month: the Atlantic coast, the mountains and Habitation
Lagrange.
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