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Carribean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 51
January
1, 1995
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I just got back from St. Barths. What follows is a summary of what we found as first time visitors actually staying on island.
In summary it was great. Great food, weather, beaches, people, and ambiance. We flew to SXM via USAir from BWI. Or flight arrived an hour late and as a result, a 1 1/2 hour connect time we had in SXM to our Winnair flight became a short 25 minutes. However we followed advice and packed very light, carried our stuff on board, and were able to go to the 'in transit' gate #8 in SXM directly and make our flight with time to spare. Note...Air St. Barth 'temporarily' ceased operations on 12/9. IF you have a flight on them check with your travel agent for current status or options.
After we arrived at SBH, the representative from St. Barths Properties met us and, after we picked up our rental car from Matthew Aubin, he led us to our villa.
For our first night, we dined in the villa on some Omaha steaks we brought with us and chose to explore the island in daytime as first time visitors.
Sunday--No cruise ships in the harbor, Gustavia was very quiet. One of the few restaurants open, the Wall House, provided us with a very pleasant meal overlooking the harbor. We did a rapid tour of the island, stopping at Saline beach for a swim. Very pretty beach, a short walk from parking. We also stopped at the Marigot Bay Club to meet Michel and make reservations for dinner. Which was excellent. I had the Lobster Ravioli because it sounded interesting and was, Jo Ann had grilled Yellowtail with creole sauce, also excellent.
Monday--spent morning in Gustavia shopping like the tourists we were. Stopped at Lou Lou's to pick up some 'Nasty Frog' t-shirts, I also think they are a hoot. Lunch at Le Repaire, very good, and a nice place to watch the goings-on in the harbor of Gustavia. Dinner was at Le Patio--another winner, I had lamb chops with garlic and artichoke sauce, and Jo Ann had the Cornish Game. Price for dinner- about 500ff which included a few drinks before dinner, in US $99.60...more...
Tuesday--Found the post office in Gustavia, mailed postcards, people were very helpful and spoke better English than I do French (maybe English too), Cruise ship count in harbor today was three, two windjammer-type and one medium cruise ship. Gustavia had its usual hustle and bustle, but was not too crowded. For dinner it was Maya's. A beautiful place on the water with a romantic view at night of the lights of the sailing ships at anchor. I had the grilled shrimp and Jo Ann tried the grilled Dorade or Dolphin or Mahi-Mahi (depending where you are), Both dishes were delicious and we took the opportunity to talk to Maya and tell her how much we enjoyed the meal.
For beach on Tuesday we went to Anse du Governeur. A very nice beach with OK parking and a short walk to the beach itself. Not many people there at all the day we visited.
Wednesday--Again did some exploring, we drove to Anse du Cayes and located the Hotel Manapany and New Born restaurant. The Manapany is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, we met a couple staying there who said the place was very special (they were on their honeymoon). We drove to Saline beach again to get some sun. A hint for beach goers, be sure you bring footwear to walk to the beach, lots of sun screen, and bottled water to drink. Many of the more remote beaches have no services available so we got in the habit of taking bottled water with us wherever we went.
Lunch on Wednesday was at Le Tamarin on the road to Saline. A pretty, open-air restaurant with excellent food. Jo Ann had the Tamarin salad with crabmeat, and I had the Gamba au lait coco, or large shrimp marinated in coconut milk. We did think it was a bit pricey at 276ff for lunch...but very good, nonetheless.
After lunch we drove around 'back roads' to the various beaches. At petit Cul de Sac we found a very quiet stretch of beach with parking right by the water and not a soul in sight. Drove up to Vitet to get a real panoramic view of the island and explored Point Milou--great villas there..more to follow....
Dinner on Wednesday was again in the villa, but we did take a bottle of wine to Shell beach to watch the sunset, a neat way to end the day.
Thursday--A note on the weather..we found it very consistent and pleasant. Low was around 75 and the high was around 88, a few clouds, a passing brief shower, fabulous rainbows, but mostly tropical sunshine, in short- perfect. We decided to visit Columbier beach this morning, we took the 'low road' from Flamands. Colombier was a neat setting, pretty beach, but soon after we arrived, it seemed that everyone else had the same idea and soon we were surrounded by beachgoers. We retreated back over the hill and stopped at Flamands fro a swim. It was perfect, a more vigorous surf than on the Caribbean side, and virtually deserted.
For lunch we stopped at Sante Fe near where our villa was located. A casual place but with a fabulous view, you can see Saba, Statia, St. Kitts and Nevis, and on a clear day, Montserrat. Mostly burger type food on the menu.
Dinner was in Gustavia at Paradisio. A real surprise, we had expected more of a pasta oriented menu, instead we found delicious French cuisine in a very attractive 'downtown' Gustavia setting. Alain said he changed the name to more properly reflect the menu, it does...excellent fare.
Friday--We visited Pati's t-shirt factory and picked up a few items, they actually have some good deals here. We went to Saline beach again, by now our favorite beach, it was a short drive from the villa, had good parking, and the nicest sand and waves. For lunch we picked up a few items from La Rotisserie in villa Creole. A great place to stop for lunch on the go or pick up a picnic for later.
Saturday--Our departure day. We were surprised by the news that our carrier, Air St. Barth, was 'temporarily' out of business. However the folks at Winnair as well as the women behind the car rental counter at Matthew Aubin really tried to help. We ended up flying to SXM on a cargo plane with another couple in the same situation. Winair arranged this for us and everything worked out well.
We had a great time. You may run into some things done very differently than the way things are done in the USA, but on St. Barth, the best advice is to go with the flow, remember you are on 'island time', and things will work out. The people who live there are friendly and helpful, and proud of their island. They want you as a visitor to have a good time. It helps to speak some French, but it is not mandatory. As most everyone it seems has some working knowledge of English. The food was fabulous everywhere we went. And you can't go wrong in a place with fresh baked French bread in every store and French wine at prices we just don't see here. Have a great time if you go.
St. Martin: Coupon Clippers by Caren Wlodarski
We were in St. Maarten in mid-October. We stayed at my parents two bedroom timeshare condo at Pelican Resort. There are many reviews and threads about where to stay, where to eat, and what to do in St. Maarten. We made good use of this advice! I would like to focus on how we saved money.......
We used frequent flyer miles to upgrade to first class on American Airlines. We flew out of Newark and changed planes in Puerto Rico. The flights were all on time and enjoyable! On the way home we had a great filet mignon dinner and dessert was a fix-your-own ice cream sundae. I highly recommend this upgrade!
My parents picked us up at the airport on Sunday, but not before we raided the information racks for coupons. If you see the booklet "St. Maarten Passport," grab a few! Take one of everything--you never know! We settled in at Pelican and had some time to kill before dinner.
My husband and I decided to go to Sapphire Beach Club for the timeshare talk (and FREE sailboat excursion tickets worth $100). We got there at 3:30 and were out by 4:30. This was a good trick we stumbled upon--get there near the end of the working day and they cannot keep you very long!
We had dinner at "The Paradise Cafe" and used a 15% off coupon. At the end of the meal we were given a coupon for $10 in free play chips at Pelican. We managed to win $35 with this and our dinner was covered!
Monday morning my husband and I headed out to Orient Beach. We had a wonderful time skinny-dipping in the warm, clear water! We had lunch at Kon-Tiki, no bargain, but the food was excellent. I had 1/2 Lobster and he had Beef--about $32 total. We ate dinner at "The Great Chicken and Ribs Place" using a coupon for free tropical drinks.
Tuesday we drove around the island with my parents and took them to Wakiki Beach. We brought our own lunch. We ended up at "Paradise" for dinner again and asked for extra chip coupons. We did okay and our meal ended up being FREE.
My husband and I went into Philipsburg on Wednesday and stopped at several of the "Tourist Info Booths" for more coupons. These booths are really timeshare fronts, but the coupons are good! We stayed at Pelican's beach in the afternoon and then toured the Ocean Club timeshare. We really liked Ocean Club and the prices were reasonable for St. Maarten! (From $4000 for RED time.) Our gift was $40 coupon for dinner at "The Old Rock Cafe."
"The Boathouse" was our choice for dinner on Wed. and we all went for the $18 lobster special. Yes, we used a coupon for FREE drinks!
Thursday came all too quickly! (Our last day) We took our FREE boat trip on "The Inspiration." We went to "The Old Rock Cafe" for dinner. This is a relatively new restaurant and on Thursday, the second dinner is 1/2 price. We had a coupon for FREE drinks and salad bar and we had the voucher for $40. We ate quite a meal for FREE!
Thursday night we finally made it to the FREE buffet at "The Atlantis Casino" This was not to be missed. Excellent salads and desserts.
A final note about coupons and casinos--Several casinos offer match plays and $25 worth of quarters for $20. Use the coupons and have fun!!!
I just returned from seven great days in St. Martin.
We had a car reserved through Hertz however the line at P.U. counter was 10 deep so we decided to rent through Explorer at $175.00 for the week for a Hundai Excel auto w/air.
We arrived at our unit at Sapphire Beach Club at 2.30 P.M. We then drove to the Food Center at Cole Bay and Bought our supplies for the week. That evening I prepared Shrimp Marinara over linguini and my wife, my 11 Year old daughter and myself enjoyed dinner on our patio overlooking the Caribbean.
Sunday: We woke early and decided to enjoy Cupecoy as last year it was not to
be found. Sunday evening we went to the Bayside for a very good meal at a reasonable price - $65.00 with tip for 3. We then went to our favorite place for dessert :"The Casino Royal Cafe" for cappucino and the best cakes on the Island.
Monday: We spent morning on Cupecoy, without a doubt The best beach on St. Martin. We had our Own Cave for Shade, we then set out to Grand Case for lunch. while searching for a nice place. We could not resist the N.J. Turnpike and G.S. Parkway signs and decided on The Surf Club South: Great Burgers and Cheese steaks and Great Rod Stewart album playing over speakers with reasonable prices, $28.00 with tip. We then headed to Orient for the afternoon. It was crowded, lots of guys with plaid shorts, ban-lon socks and Video cameras.
Tuesday: We went to Belair for TS tour. Not to our liking but received $75.00 Dinner certificate for Don Camilios in Marigot. The U.S. Teddy Roosevelt had docked in P-burg Today and 6,000 sailors were to hit the beaches of St. Martin for 3 Day R and R.
We went to newly renovated Turtle Pier Bar for Lunch. This place better than ever. Great soups, salads, and shrimp salad sandwich. Under 30.00 total.
Wednesday We went into Marigot. The wife and daughter took me broke at Animale, Lipstick, Beauty and scents etc. Had our dinner at Don Camilios. It was an excellent meal with the total bill $102.00 with drinks and tip (-75.00 Gift=27.00)
Thursday: Sapphire gave all guests complimentary Thanksgiving Dinner at The Restaurant which was very nice.
Friday: We planned to go out for Pizza and decided on Alba -- a Big Mistake! Major Rip-off: Pizza for 1 $9.00 Small Garlic roll $3.00 Small Cokes $3.00. "going for Pizza" cost $70.00 Stay Clear of this place!!
Things appeared to go very smoothly with the U.S. Navy Their complaints were not enough phones, rest rooms, or A.T.M. machines.
Saturday: We had Lunch at Cheri's before returning home -- good Burgers fries, and fish Chowder at great prices.
It was a wonderful, restful, relaxing vacation -- 51 weeks until we return.
We had a marvelous time the month we were on St. martin and really HATED to come back, but all good things have to end sometime. This trip started out to be the vacation from hell !!!! Three days before we were to leave I discovered that our reservations were screwed up! Had two reservations for the same week. What a mess it was. We ended up at a condo which was not rented for the week we needed and it worked out great as we were staying there for the first and last week. Ended up there for the second also and spent the third at the Pelican.
We arrived on SXM on time, got through immigrations fairly speedily and then went to get out luggage. Unfortunately the cooler with all our frozen food never made it to the connecting flight on San Juan. AA delivered it a few hours later. Everything was O.K. with the food, thank goodness. Claude's man brought our car around within the half hour after we arrived at The Cliff
We went to Food Center to pick up some groceries, coke, and beer and decided to go to the Bayside for dinner. Paul had a very good onion soup but they were out of the lamb he wanted and since it was a very limited menu he had a hard time picking another entree. We did not particularly care for the place and did not go back.
Saturday was Paul's birthday. The first thing that went wrong was the car would not start! We called Claude and someone came right out with another battery.
Not the battery so they brought us another car.
We went to Marigot and stopped at Match -- good produce there. But we MUST learn some more French to read grocery labels! Decided not to go out and cooked in.
Sunday the car won't start! Again! Another Subaru. Paul went upstairs to the nice gentleman that lives there and he did get it started for us. Seems there is a problem with a lot of the Subarus so we took it back to Claude's and got a Toyota. No problem with that at all. It was another lousy day. We had bad weather ever since arriving. Went into Philipsburg to Touch of Gold. I had bought a ring there two years ago and one of the emeralds had fallen out two weeks after we got home. Heeru replaced the stone. Same stone was loose in setting so returned it and they fixed it. Very nice people there! We had a delicious lunch at the Passagrahan (spelling??). Ate in again that night.
Monday we wondered what would happen to us as it seemed something went wrong every day so far. it turned out to be a great day as did all the rest! We went to Maho beach that morning ate lunch in condo and just lazed around in the afternoon. We met some friends at Cheri's. . Not too pleased with the meal at Cheri's. Nice place for a drink but I don't care for the food.
Tuesday we went to Baie Longue but did not stay too long as there is no shade. Paul cooked on grill that night.
We went to Maho Beach morning of the 26th and then toured Divi Little Bay timeshare. As far as I'm concerned they are dumps! We got a trip to St. Barth's on White Octopus out of that and had a fantastic meal at Saratoga, we both had Snapper in a garlic cream sauce and Paul had his Death by Chocolate! This is really one of our favorite places, we have always had a good meal and good service there.
Thursday we went for a drive and found Guana Bay . Then on to Grand Case and was going to eat at one of the Lolo's but they were so crowded you could not get near them. Ended up at LeTastevin. Another great meal. We both had Snapper again and this was with a herbed butter. We ate in that night. My ambition in keeping a diary ran out after that day so the rest of this will be mostly from a few notes that Paul wrote and from memory.
On Friday we took our trip to St. Barth's on White Octopus. I was not the least impressed with the boat and/or crew. Won't ride that again. We had a great lunch at LePelican, as we usually do.
Anyway we spent the rest of our month at Mullet Beach. We really like that beach so much as there is a lot of shade there. So that takes care of our days. To be perfectly honest we did LESS in the month we were there then we have done other times in one week. Went to Mullet and just lazed around. Only went to a casino ONCE.
Now to get going on the rest of the restaurants. I will leave the ones we did not like to last! Paradise Cafe, had a good dinner there, I had chicken kabob an can't remember what Paul had with the exception of the Calamari Salad.
LePerroquet on Airport Road. A fantastic meal! Paul had a veal chop and I had snapper (as usual). Both food and service were excellent and that has been put on the list of our favorite places.
LaRosa, too, another great meal! We both had the veal chop and it was out of this world. Another place with good food and service and has been added to our ever growing list of favorites.
Il Netunno - had a very good lunch there. Paul had a Calamari steak (!) and I had Veal Marsala with Portabella mushrooms. Delicious!
Island House Bar - very good and very inexpensive. Paul had the buffet, all you can eat for $10. I had Shrimp Creole. A very good meal and will go back there.
The Fish Pot! Oh boy, that has definitely become our favorite! Paul had a fantastic Lamb dish and I had Snapper (what else??) Most expensive meal we had, $135 with tip.
Laguna on Airport Rd, not bad but not that great either.
Le Auburge Gourmand - another great meal. Paul had the Fillet in Roquefort sauce and I had it with Peppercorns and olives. Fantastic! Of course he also had the chocolate assortment for dessert! Too rich for my blood.
LePavilon - another fantastic meal. Paul had Lamb (naturally) and I had Shrimp Brochette (sp?). The quality of the food has not changed since Jacques and Majella split and there was a very, very nice hostess there, same waitress we had before. The sign for LePavilon has always said "Chez Gallant" underneath the name. A few days before we left to come home I noticed that had been blacked out so I have no idea what, if anything, has gone on.
Turtle Pier Bar and Grill has re-opened as we ate lunch there twice and were very pleased with the hamburgs, as I said, they have Cheri's beat by a mile!
Le Poisson D'or - I think this will be tied with the Fish Pot for our favorite place. Paul had another lamb dish and I had Snapper with Truffles and Pine Nuts - out of this world! Great food and service. Paul had such good coffee over the French side! He is a big coffee drinker and really appreciates a good cup of coffee.
Now the places we considered duds!
The biggest disappointment was daLivio's. We have been going there for just about 10 years now and something is really wrong there, at least it was when we dropped in. Paul had called for reservations as we wanted a particular table and waiter. When we got there Livio said we had NOT called and naturally we did not get either the table or waiter. I was a little ticked off about that. Now anyone that knows Livio knows that he is very, very arrogant. He was his normal arrogant self but he seemed to be a very flustered arrogant person. I have never seem him like that...I have never seen him sweat! His shirt was drenched and his tie was askew and his glasses on his head. Oh well I thought.... Now the meal was bad and I do mean bad. We both had Veal Marsala and we got two pieces of shoe leather with potatoes and zucchini thrown on top of it. This was the biggest disappointment of our trip!
Grand Cafe Europe - Maho. I ordered snapper and it was so bad that I could not eat it. Paul was not pleased with his meal either. To give them credit though, they did not charge us for mine.
Don Carlos - another lousy meal. I ordered the Chicken Fajitas and Paul had the special plate they put out. It was really a very poor meal. We did have a good lunch there though.
Coconuts - a terrible lunch there. We ordered a grilled chicken sandwich and to be honest I don't know what kind of meat we ended up with but it was inedible.
I suppose those duds were not too bad out of a month! I am sure that I have missed some places we went to. Yup, I missed Grill and Ribs - had a good lunch there, the all you can eat. But then had a lousy lunch there another time when I ordered a Hamburg, so I guess it depends upon what you order.
Jewelry! Oh boy, I wish I married a jeweler!!! We visited Touch of Gold several times as they did order something for me the first time we went there, but after the third week when it was not in got it elsewhere, the Gold Mine. That is really a great store and they have so many unique pieces of jewelry there. Paul got my Christmas present there. While talking with the owner/manager,
Love, he mentioned something about his computer being down and he had been waiting 10 days for someone to come fix it. Paul being his wonderful self got it up and running for him, and did some other work for him. I think we made a nice friend there!
Oh, I did forget, Mambo's! A very, very big disappointment, even with Majella there. This is without doubt the most uncomfortable restaurant I have ever sat in. Guess I'll have to finish this in next note! Both the table and chairs are straight up and down and there is absolutely no place to put your legs/feet.
Now I am short, 5'1" but Paul is a good foot taller and he was so cramped! Paul also said that it is the first Cuban restaurant he has been in without any Cuban Black Bread! The food was just so-so, very, very bland. Majella was not her usually effervescent self. She was not even there to great us when we arrived at 8:00 P.M. and that was quite surprising. She did come over later in the evening and told us all about separating from Jacques. It was a disappointing experience. I THINK that is all the restaurants we went to. If I remember anymore I'll send another note.
We were not too happy when our last day rolled around. We just HATED to leave the island.
We were not too happy with our stay at the Pelican. They absolutely REFUSE to even put your bags in the condo before 4:00 P.M. Our place was not ready until almost 5 and we were fit to be tied. There is no need of that, people check out at 10:00 A.M. and I believe that 6 hours should be enough to get the places ready for the next visitors. Seems like they have cut their help so that is why it takes so long. All in all I would much rather stay at The Cliff then the Pelican. Of course we had two bathrooms at the Cliff and only one at the Pelican!
We paid $135 a week for our car rental. I believe that Claude is generally $150 but we did have the car for a month and even with the problems we had with the first two cars we will definitely rent from him again.
St. Martin Club Orient by Judy and Leon Bordelon
Observations About St. Martin And Club Orient:
RESTAURANTS: Many other members have spoken about all of the wonderful places to go on St. Martin. Most of what you have read is still true. We didn't get to all of the restaurants mentioned, but we did get to some. CoCo's Beach Restaurant on Orient Beach, spoken highly of, don't go. Service is enthusiastic but inexperienced; food is good, but not special; prices are not high but extremely high. Cash Only. But it is a nice place for an afternoon cocktail. Go to Pedro's, also on Orient Beach, good ribs and chicken. Enough about restaurants. Let's discuss odds and ends not discussed elsewhere.
AIRPORT: Immigration; Much easier if you have a passport, but one picture ID
and another ID will get you in. If the "visitor" lines are very long, (and you have a passport) go to "resident" line on the far right. Customs: There are no customs inspection; bring anything you want.
CELLULAR PHONE: If you have one, bring it. The service is terrific, much better than the local service. Set up service ahead of time. First, call your local cellular company and make sure your number is set up for "international calling". They may want to charge you $15 for this change, but will probably waive it, if you ask nicely. Second, contact East Caribbean Cellular to set up roamer service (1-800/262-8366). They will fax (or mail) a form to fill out and return with the credit card number to which you wish calls charged. They will issue you a local number that you can leave with someone at home. If a caller does not know your locally assigned number they can call 011-5995-7-7626 wait for a second dial tone then dial your "home" area code and number. "Auto Access" or "Follow Me Roaming" does not work here.
CAR RENTAL: Budget is cheapest but their office is not on the airport, it's a $5.00 cab ride to their office, but they will bring you to the airport when you return the car. Charge car rental on your AMEX or whatever that covers the CDW, don't pay the $9.00/day. Liability insurance, by law, is covered in the rental fee, your US liability insurance is no good here. Inspect the car carefully for existing damage and note on the rental agreement. Hertz is on the airport as well as many local agencies. Budget phone 011-599-554030. If you are going to go anywhere, it makes more sense to rent a car for the week. Make reservations (800/527-0707) before you leave.
CAB FARE TO CLUB ORIENT: $20-25 Ask first!
ROADS, TRAFFIC AND MAPS: The roads on the Dutch side are rather good, on the French side, not so good. Traffic seems always congested wherever YOU are trying to go. The maps are just plain inaccurate. Don't worry about getting lost, you will. But not to worry, you are on an island, so you can't be lost for more than 45 minutes and you will get to see some interesting places.
CLUB ORIENT: Nice touch. There is a welcome sign in the window with your name on it. Nice people. Try to get there before 5:30 pm (5:00 pm in summer) when the office closes. The guard can check you in if you arrive later, but try to arrive when the office and boutique are open. Phone: 011-590-87-33-85 --- Fax 011-590-87-33-76.
If you want to be where the action is, then reserve a unit around 48 or 49. If you want peace and quiet and birds singing in the morning reserve 88 or 90. A few of the older units are air conditioned, but the new ones under construction now (136-165) are air conditioned. For the most part, you don't need the A/C. Total nudity is officially not allowed outside of the Club Orient Beach area. A "G" string is considered sufficient dress. Many pay no heed.
FOOD: The kitchens at Club Orient are nicely equipped. If you like to cook, bring any kind of food you wish, but be sure to BRING YOUR OWN SPICES. One couple we met had a "L.L. Bean" fold up ice chest that they bring frozen food in. Bring paper towels, paper napkins, coffee, coffee filters for Mr. Coffee, a couple of sizes of zip lock bags, saran wrap and maybe paper plates. The maid will do the dishes, but she deserves a little extra tip for that service. Bring Gatorade powder, or other punch concentrate that you like. Pepsi's are $1-$2. Maybe bring some of those flavored instant coffees. L'Orientique has a supply of canned or frozen foods and the prices are reasonable. Except for spices, $3$5 for what you are used to paying $1.49 for. And the FRESH French bread and Crescents are to die for. There are larger supermarkets in Philipsburg and Marigot, about 30 minutes away.
CLOTHES: Unpack 1/2 of what you thought you needed. Bring thongs and/or sneakers. Jackets are not required. Bring an extra beach towel or two. Club Orient supplies two clean ones each day.
NUDE CRUISE: Take it! Elegant. $75 pp Includes luxurious lunch, open bar, and snorkel gear. Take an extra towel or two with you. Departs 10 am Tue, Th. or
Sat from the dive shop at Club Orient. We got into a rain storm on our return from Tintamarre Island and got all of our "clothes" wet. The nude cruise is once again nude, the island's single resident had complained.
BEACH: This indeed one of the most beautiful beaches anywhere, the water is warm and the sun is bright. Once you are on this beach, you hate to leave it. It has a special relaxation quality about it that we have not experienced anywhere else.
MEDICATION: If you are at all allergic to the bites of the "no-see-ums", take plenty of benadryl or whatever your doctor recommends, and oceans and oceans of Calamine lotion. Take any other medication you usually require. Plus AlkaSeltzer, Pepto-Bismol, dramamine etc. whatever your plumbing requires. There are well-stocked pharmacies around the island and the druggists are very helpful. Suntan lotion -- take SPF 15 and SPF 45 even if you never use the stuff, you will need it here.
SHOPPING: Cigarette prices are 33% less than US, liquor is maybe 20% or so, less. Remember, whatever you buy has to be carried one way or another. For all of the hassle of carrying, declaring, etc., I'll buy in my local Sam's Club.
But buy T-shirts, some are really interesting. US dollars and traveler's checks are accepted everywhere, don't exchange any money unless you want it for souvenirs. Buy some pretty stamps at the airport post office when you are leaving. There are many duty-free shops at the airport, their prices are competitive.
RETURN: Be sure to confirm your flight at least 48 hours in advance. (Yes, even AA wants a 48 hour confirmation.) Check your bags into the airport early, pay your airport tax ($10.00 pp) then go to Philipsburg to shop. Return your car, have them take you to the airport and check in again 1-1/2 hrs before your flight.
St. Martin: Esmeralda Resort by Charles Spivak
We just returned from a four day trip to St. Martin, staying at the Esmeralda Resort on Orient Bay.
We arrived at Juliana International Airport at 3:30 PM, but unfortunately we were right behind an Air France 747 so it took us 45 min. to get through immigration.
CAR RENTAL: The taxi union on the island still prevents you from renting a car directly at the airport. There are rental booths in the parking lot...but you have to walk down the road to pick the car up...in Hertz case that walk is almost a half mile (Avis was closer by the way). I suggest leaving your spouse at the airport to pick up the luggage, bypass the rental booths, and just go directly to the rental lot and get the car.
ESMERALDA RESORT: I can not say enough wonderful things about this place. The staff was friendly and helpful, the rooms were large with a king size bed, refrigerator, kitchenette, satellite TV. The rooms are grouped 3-4 per villa, with each villa having its own fresh water pool. The guest our week were about 80% European (mainly French) and 20% North American (mainly US). Although French is the primary language, everyone we met spoke English. ORIENT BEACH: We have been to a lot of Caribbean islands and this beach ranks as one of the best!!! It is a long crescent, white powdery beach. Esmeralda provides chairs, mats, umbrellas free of charge. On this board there have been recent posting asking about a ban on nudity outside of Club Orient...if there is a ban nobody was obeying it. On the beach between Club Orient on the south and Mt. Vernon on the north...about 15% of the beach goers were nude and 95% of the women were topless.
GAWKERS: We saw very few...perhaps most of the cruise ship tours drop them off at Club Orient and they never made their way north up the beach.
FOOD: Esmeralda has two excellent places to eat...CoCo Beach directly on the beach where breakfast, lunch, dinner are served....and L'Astrolab where continental breakfasts are provided free to guest in the morning and truly excellent French cuisine diners are served at night...diner and drinks for two with tips can be had for less than $100.
IN CONCLUSION: Although St. Barts remains our favorite Caribbean island, and Caravelle Beach at the Club Med on Guadeloupe remains our favorite Caribbean beach, Esmeralda is one place we are definitely going to return to, which for us is unusual as we like to go to places that are new.
St. Thomas: The Health and Food Scene by Linda Cousins / Amasewa Okomfo
(Ed Note: This file is copyrighted by TUAW Press l994. and is used here with the author's permission.)
One of my first press visits was a cultural journey to lovely St. Thomas, U. S. Virgin Islands, and although over the years I have traveled to and written about numerous other Caribbean islands, St. Thomas, like a first love, never quite leaves the mind. Each return visit there continues to be a rejuvenating and refreshing cultural experience; thus, while I sit at my computer, preparing this travel report on my last St. Thomas visit, my mind is dreamily contemplating my next St. Thomas experience.
I decided to approach this press journey from a different angle as I wanted to get information that would be helpful to the health-conscious traveler as well as the progressive traveler who would like to support the positive efforts of women business owners in the Caribbean.
My first stop was at Caribbean Health Complex owned by Essington Veira. A wellequipped health facility with a variety of exercise equipment and a spacious weight training room, the business is the culmination of a dream come true. Years ago, it seems, Mr. Veira was an overweight islander who was so embarrassed by his disproportionate physique that he could not fully enjoy the nature blessings of the island. He would wait until no one was around to slip into the sea for a swim or a quick sea bath. Determined to bring an end to this agony, he began a determined exercise regime and within several months was gifted for his efforts with a body of which he could be quite proud. He continued with his weight training over the years and in the mid-50's won a body-building contest. He had dreamed of opening a health facility which would be a source of aid to others desiring to get in shape and take better care of their health; and soon thereafter, it became a reality. Unlike many business owners, Mr. Veira is not content to take care of executive responsibilities and leave the customers to employees. He is a personal trainer in his facility and comes in early each morning to continue with his own weight training activities before work responsibilities claim his attention. Caribbean Health Complex is unique in that members may come in at their leisure to utilize the equipment, as they are given a key to the studio and . For a reasonable fee, healthconscious vacationers may visit the facility, take advantage of its services, and even have the business owner as a personal trainer.
Ofttimes while traveling vegetarians are at a loss as to where find a restaurant catering to their diets. One need look no farther than the Veggie Table in St. Thomas, a business started thirteen years ago, by an enterprising Caribbean lady, Pearl Callwood who desired to make a contribution to the health of her community. Her daughter, Agnes Callwood, aided her greatly in the startup of the business and her other daughter, Gail Callwood-Hill works by her side now to carry on the work. In addition to serving a sumptuous vegetarian lunch daily, the family also offers vitamins and minerals, a large selection of Chinese herbs, and over 280 herbal teas. The tempting luncheon menu includes vegetarian prime "steak" made of a soy product, the popular veggie burgers made from a secret family recipe, stew beef (soy), fish cakes, brown rice, fresh salad and freshly prepared soup. Among the health books lining the shelves there are the works of the famed Virgin Island folklorist and former restaurateur, Arona S. Petersen (The Food and Folklore of the Virgin Islands; Herbs and Proverbs), along with Mildred V. Andale's Virgin Islands Native Recipes. Travelers who are vegetarians owe themselves a treat of a hearty and healthy lunch at Veggie Table. Another must-try is the Ultimate Lifestyle, run by another enterprising mother-daughter team. When I went to take a look at the facility, they were busy preparing lunch for a dedicated lunch crowd and the wonderful aroma of the delectable looking food pervaded the entire place. Because of a hectic schedule, did not get to return there to sample the culinary offerings but that will definitely be on the itinerary for my next cultural journey to the island.
I wanted to support and write about women business owners and thus was delighted to have the opportunity to dine at Gladys Cafe, located on Main Street near the downtown Charlotte Amalie shopping district, and specializing in delicious Caribbean cuisine. The casual, open-aired, brick-walled decor gives the restaurant a sunny, intimate atmosphere, and when I walked in and heard the Tennessee-born sister, Tina Turner, belting out "What's Love Got to Do With It" on the music system, then tasted that mouth-watering old wives' fish dinner, I felt right at home. The proprietor, Gladys Isles, is a warmspirited enterprising lady who worked as a waitress for well over a decade before embarking on her own enterprise. Was pleased to find that she also a community-minded person when I again ran into her selling raffle tickets to benefit a charity at the University of the Virgin Islands' Smorgasbord on the Green. Love spending my travel dollar at the businesses of positive entrepreneurs like Gladys.
Another quality dining spot also specializes in island favorites, seafood, and continental cuisine is the elegant Victor's Hideout, perched on a hillside with a spectacular view of the island below. Other must-visit spots are Cuzzin's Caribbean Restaurant and Bar, the Sunset View Restaurant, as well as the Diamond Barrel Restaurant which is operated by another energetic and goaloriented mother-daughter team, Marilyn and Sheryl Penn. Sheryl, who has worked with her mother in the restaurant since her high school days, relates that the business attracts a loyal following from not only St. Thomas but travelers from across the world. In l989 the Diamond Barrel, (soon to be renamed Diamond Delight), was the only Virgin Islands business to win an award from a Madrid, Spain organization whose members had dined and amply appreciated the fare offered there. One can readily see that island seafoods are the specialty, as the walls are decorated with murals of the multi-colored fish that populate Caribbean waters. In addition to the restaurant, the Penns also operate an adjoining bakery.
Those who enjoy what my grandmother called "good eatin'" must also make sure they are on a wise exercise regimen. What better place to engage in such body nurturing than the convivial family-type exercise salon, Local BodyZ, operated by Louise Hassel-Armstrong. The exercise devotees who frequent the salon are drawn there not only because of the excellent service provided but also because of the warm, amicable atmosphere where each person and her/his health are made top priority. Louise, who trimmed down to l45 lbs from an initial weight of 285, states that she takes students everywhere with her, particularly for the in-demand exhibitions of the popular step dance routines.
` The facility offers body sculpting, utilizing varied weights to develop muscle tones and well as aerobic classes and the ever popular step classes. Instructors, who each have an area of special expertise, are former successful clients, who have collectively lost hundreds of pounds and dropped several dress sizes to become their most attractive and fit selves. One example of a satisfied client turned-trainer/manager is Monica, who started out at size 20 and dropped two dress sizes in a month's time. Monica has been with Local BodyZ for two years and relates that in addition to cutting out excessive starches and junk food from her diet, she works out in the gym at least three times a week in addition to teaching classes in aerobics and step exercising.
Louise started her business with three members and a space of 300 square feet; the membership rolls have expanded over 4-1/2 years to 350 members served in a studio space of 1,100 square feet including a separate spacious aerobics and weight training rooms. Branches of Local BodyZ will soon open in the neighboring islands of St. Croix and Tortola. Commendably, the exercise salon is a family-run business. J. J. Armstrong conducts classes in Tae Kwondo, a martial arts discipline in which he holds a second-degree Black Belt, and for which he underwent eighteen months of training in Seoul, Korea. Most impressively of all, Chenise, the 16-year-old daughter of Louise and J. J.,is now the manager of her own exercise salon, a facility which was opened in March at Al Cohen's Plaza there in St. Thomas. Chenise took her first class at her parents' business at the age of eight and has spent the last few years teaching and learning the business there. At the ripe old age of fifteen, she announced to her mother that she wanted her own salon.
Since the opening of her branch of Local BodyZ, she has counted among her clients members of the Virgin Islands police force as well as a number of Virgin Islands' elders. Being an entrepreneur does not interfere with this teen's academic achievement. Chenise is not only an honor student but was selected out of 360 students to become an international member of the National Honor Society.
The family atmosphere of Local BodyZ moves far beyond the fact that a closeknit family operates the businesses; the members themselves become a part of a warm, enthusiastic, extended family who have great fun while they are getting in shape and who encourage each other every step of the way. The amply-endowed women feel as comfortable in the studio as the svelte-figured women because as a student pointed out the business' "goal is not to get you skinny but get you in shape." Devotees of Local BodyZ devotees include Ria an attractive 45-year old who takes three classes a day and who has bypassed fancier facilities because of the family-like warmth and personal approach afforded to each client at Local BodyZ. Anita Davis, a WSTA Radio personality, speaks of her excitement in the loss of l3-inches, joining Ria in praising the down-to-earth family atmosphere and the ego boost that stems from the members constantly encouraging and motivating each other. "We're not given a 'die-it' here at Local BodyZ but a 'live-it". This place gives you control over your life!" Visitors and vacationers in St. Thomas are warmly welcomed at Local BodyZ. Upon my visit there, my parting comment to Louise was "If Local BodyZ ever opens a branch in Brooklyn, let me know." Exercising to maintain good health is becoming more and more a necessity in modern-day life; exercising in such an aura as is apparent at Local BodyZ makes the necessity quite a pleasure.
The Bayside Spa and Fitness Center was yet another health facility that I had the opportunity to visit while in lovely St. Thomas. Termed "a complete wellness facility", Bayside has a wide range of sophisticated, state-of-the-art equipment, as well as a variety of services to offer its clientele. Unique among such services are the herbal body wraps made from a blend of seven to twelve different herbs which are utilized for detoxification, rejuvenation, and overall relaxation purposes. Then there are the salt glow treatments featuring combinations of sea salt, corn meal, and almond oil applied to the skin to remove dead skin cells and refresh the skin. The spa also offers massage therapy sessions (Swedish and sports-related massages), as well as facials, waxing, back treatments, aerobics classes, and the stimulating hydro aerobics classes in the artfully designed facility pool.
For vacationers who desire round-the-clock enjoyment of the beauteous Bolongo Bay area where the facility is located, a stay can be arranged at the reasonably priced Bayside Inn, which has four rooms with full amenities including beach privileges and unlimited use of the fitness center. The luxurious Bayside Villa, with three bedrooms and three baths, overlooks the Caribbean Sea and is an excellent vacation buy for small groups of persons traveling together.
While touring Bayside Spa and viewing the herbal wrap equipment, I remember thinking, "This is a sophisticated version of the old-time Caribbean bush bath." Bush baths and bush tea have been a refreshing way of life of Caribbean peoples for centuries. Commendably, Jacquel Dawson, a progressive U. S. Virgin Islands agronomist and entrepreneur has been working diligently to benefit her home islanders by creating a bush tea industry.
Jacquel's entrepreneurial dream is to make the U. S. Virgin Islands "the tea capital of the world" noted for its "sun, sand, sea, and tea." She relates that there are 420 teas traditionally used in the Virgin Islands for health maintenance and curatives. The bush teas have not only been ingested but utilized as poultices and in spiritual, marriage, and healing rituals.
Jacquel who studied agronomy at the University of Florida returned to St. Thomas and immediately began seeking ways to help her people economically, particularly the farmers. Her initial goal was to develop a cash crop for the farmers. The training she received in agronomy, she relates, aided her in assessing how to optimize the quality of tea produced on the Virgin Islands farms.
Having previously been employed by the Economic Development agency of the Virgin Islands, Ms. Dawson ran into some difficulties when her supervisors did not share her vision or approve of her techniques for aiding the farmers. This situation precipitated her departure from the agency and subsequent forming her own company, The Bush Tea Project, to carry on the work. She relates with an air of resiliency, "I was terminated but not exterminated."
The work has been an uphill struggle, demanding nearly all of her time and resources, but The Bush Tea Project has been of aid and encouragement to many people in the Virgin Islands, from the farmers who were barely eking out an existence to unemployed women who package the tea in their homes and work together collectively to make the tea baskets. Even a number of children are employed after school to package the tea leaves. For Carnival the company sponsored a Bush Tea Elimination Contest with local calypsonians during which they created a bush tea jingle.
The teas are sold in about l5 or l6 gift shops as well as in the United States and Toronto, Canada, and the Bush Tea Project will soon open a Bush Bath and Tea Shop at picturesque Paradise Point there in St. Thomas. In addition to the bush teas, Ms. Dawson is also marketing the local honey which has traditionally been used as a sweetener. The company is also manufacturing a line of soaps and supervising the growing of loofahs.
80 patients in the St. Thomas Hospital are using the commercial teas from the Bush Tea Project, and Ms. Dawson is seeking to interest cruise ship, hotel, and restaurant owners in serving the tasty, nutritious teas to their guests. "A medical institution has been packaged", Ms. Dawson remarks enthusiastically, noting that she is seeking to pick up in diversifying the island teas where the great scientist Dr. George Washington Carver left off in diversifying the peanut. Her most pressing need, however, is to attract investors to the project as lack of adequate capital is the Bush Tea Project's greatest obstacle.
One cannot but fervently hope that Ms. Dawson will be successful in the invaluable contribution she is seeking to make to her people and the economy of her home islands. Such a project offers hope, encouragement, and a means of making a living to innumerable people--the farmers, the youth, the elders, and unemployed mothers greatly in need of supplementing their meager incomes. While accomplishing this humanitarian goal, the company is also offering a product of high nutritional value that can be enjoyed by persons of all ages and all global spaces. Success, Jacquel, in your laudable dream of making the Virgin Islands the world's tea capital--a lovely region of sun, sand, sea, and tasty bush tea.
Speaking of health, the last time I visited St. Thomas I attended a lecture at Education Station Bookstore where Bobby Olivacce, a popular island herbologist, spoke on varied topics relevant to health maintenance. Was delighted to find during this visit that he has taken his concern with community health one giant step farther by opening a health food store.
The store is unique in that it not only carries the standard fare for the health-conscious, but shelves of Bobby's personally prepared tinctures for a variety of ailments from arthritis to insomnia. It is worth a visit to the store alone just to chat with Bobby Olivacce, an engaging storyteller and affable walking resource on islands herbal remedies as well as political and spiritual remedies for an ailing world.
The entrepreneurial spirit must run in the Olivacce blood there in St. Thomas, for I was pleasantly surprised to find on my itinerary an interview scheduled with an enterprising young woman entrepreneur, Vanessa Olivacce, who turned out to be Bobby's cousin.
Vanessa is the publisher/editor of a monthly community-oriented newspaper, The Island Bugle, which was started in August of l993. The newspaper, distributed in both St. Thomas and St. John, is described by Ms. Olivacce as a "familytype" paper, and indeed within its pages, one finds articles geared to varied members of the family from youth writings on the violence that has claimed the lives of so many of our people to the quest for political and economic selfdetermination in the islands to a thought-provoking article on the Caribs, one of the first indigenous people of the Caribbean and the proud, fearless people for whom the region is named and who were almost totally decimated along with the other early Native American people. The paper devotes a great deal of attention to concerns regarding the youth, and Ms. Olivacce relates that every month original short stories for children are published.
The wisdom words of Bobby Olivacce and the in-depth cultural perceptions of educator/media personality, Carol Heineman, frequently find their way into the pages of the Island Bugle, along with the unique, artistic photography of a multi-talented young photographer, Ethelbert Bedminister, whose business, Chic Photography shares space with the Island Bugle. His work shows promise of propelling him to the position in the late 90's and early twenty-first century that the work of the great photographer, James VanderZee, occupied in the early l900's.
Since its inception The Island Bugle has reached a circulation (free) of l0,000 with the aid of a dedicated staff of five who share advertising, graphics, editing and other journalistic functions. Its primary market consists of African-Caribbean readers between the ages of 25 to 45. Perhaps of greatest encouragement to would-be entrepreneurs, Vanessa Olivacce, who initiated this valuable community service, is still a college student. She, in fact, is a journalism major at the University of the Virgin Islands and has a career goal of becoming a novelist. If her creative writing skills are on a par with her entrepreneurial acumen, she will undoubtedly join the ranks of notable Africandescended women writers whose works are enjoyed globally. In the meantime, The Island Bugle, provides a valuable community service which within its short period of existence has become highly appreciated and anticipated by a devoted core of readers of all ages.
A trip to St. Thomas, U. S. Virgin Islands, in my estimation, is simply not complete without enjoying lunch or dinner at Eunice's Terrace. Several times during previous press trips I had dined at Eunice's and always found it a delightful culinary experience. Then there is the Afrikan Youth Diaspora Development awards to Afrikan entrepreneurs which is hosted annually by The Street Speaker publishers, Nab Eddie and Jaribu Bobo, at Eunice's, an event which draws scores of scholars, artists, entrepreneurs, activists and wellwishers.
Having touched base with this positive business during these occasions, I specifically requested to have an interview arranged with the restaurant's proprietor, Eunice Best, a southern-born Black woman entrepreneur, whose special brand of persistence, tenacity, skill, and deep spirituality has carved a place for her as one of the leading restaurateurs of the Virgin Islands.
The first time I visited Eunice's with a group of journalists, as an African descendant from the South, I was pleasantly surprised to find that one could top off a sampling of sumptuous Caribbean fare with a piece of down-home sweet potato pie. I knew then that Eunice was a unique gem on the Caribbean
restaurant scene--a South Carolinian now making her home in the Caribbean and preparing Caribbean food with a special touch of the South here and there.
Involved in the restaurant business in St. Thomas for 14 years, Eunice previously worked for the New York Telephone Company as a toll collector. She migrated to the island with her husband who had been born in St. Thomas. Having been away since childhood, he found that island living was not to his liking and ending up moving away again. Eunice remained and has been an integral part of St. Thomas business and civic life since that time.
She relates that when she started her restaurant, there were no local restaurants in St. Thomas catering to tourist. Thus, she found a need and wisely and efficiently filled it. The climb to the position she now holds as one of the Virgin Islands' most popular restaurant was not an easy one; in fact, it was fraught with challenges, difficulties, and setbacks. However, Eunice, a deeply spiritual woman, states that through prayer and faith she was able to persevere and hold on to her dream through the most trying of times.
In terms of developing her skills, Eunice attributes her talented way with Caribbean cuisine to having watched an elder expert cook, Mrs. Eunice, during her early days in St. Thomas, noting carefully how she seasoned the food.
Before she opening her own restaurant, she managed a friend's restaurant, Sparky's, once again watching carefully the work of the restaurant's cook and experimenting with different types of foods, as well as educating herself on all phases of restaurant management.
An ill-fated partnership that developed later did not deter her from her goal of running her own restaurant. She bought out her partner's share in the restaurant they were operating together and persevered in seeking to keep its doors open. The former restaurant, a small facility, with an outdoor patio where guests were served became so in demand as a dining spot by both locals and tourists that she soon found it necessary to expand to a more spacious setting, the present site of Eunice's Terrace on Smith Bay Road.
The surge in business can partially be attributed to a visit from five travelers, one of whom was a writer for the New York Times. Shortly thereafter Eunice learned that her business had been featured on the cover of the newspaper. Since then she has been featured in innumerable newspaper, magazine articles, and travel guides.
In addition to her work at the restaurant, Eunice has packaged and is marketing her tasty rum cake and seasonings mix. She is also considering adding more Southern cuisine to the menu. She is aided in her restaurant by her amicable sister, Althea Jones-Ruffin, who migrated to the island in l985. They both note the similarity between Caribbean food and the amply seasoned foods of the South; thus, it appears as only a normal next step forward to bring the two together under the roof of one dining establishment.
Years ago when Eunice initially entered the restaurant scene, a number of people laughed at an African-American woman migrant seeking to run a Caribbean restaurant. Although the laughs have long since faded away, the smiles remain-in appreciation of the fine cuisine and service of one of the region's most successful restaurants.
I would not dream of visiting St. Thomas without having dinner at Eunice's, but I must add that neither would I dream of visiting the lovely island without seeking out my favorite spot for literary nourishment--the Education Station Bookstores, two magnificent meccas of cultural and historical offerings for all age ranges. The spacious, brightly-lit twin stores, situated side by at
Wheatley Center, are owned by the enterprising couple Khalid and Latifah Chinnery-Nadir. Latifah's store is dedicated to the educational needs of children; it also offers a wide range of supplies and materials for teachers. The colorful, artfully decorated reading room is a delight to the youngsters who utilize its services. It was great seeing children visiting the store with their parents and enthusiastically shopping for their own books and games. The book series I purchased on Black inventors have proven to be an equally great motivation to both my adult ed and high school students.
The store which Khalid operates is one of the island's most valued resource center for adult book lovers. The Thursday night lectures of authors and historians from across the world draw an attentive audience from not only throughout the island, but also visitors from throughout the region, the states, and the world. For those interested in cultural networking, to be at the Education Station events on Thursday nights is definitely being in the right place at the right time. Whenever I plan a visit to St. T., I make sure that I will be on the island for this weekly literary function.
Some travelers go shopping for new clothing when they are preparing for a cultural getaway. Although I enjoy having a few articles of new attire to wear, I ofttimes shop for a new fragrance to carry along. My schedule was so hectic as I prepared for the Virgin Islands trip, that I didn't find the time to go perfume shopping. "Fine," I thought, "that's even more reason to give some business to the Muslim brother who sells oils up there on Flatbush by the Plaza Theater." Now this merchant is usually there all of the time, but wouldn't you know on the evening before my trip, he, his tables, and his selection of oils were missing. Ended up buying one of my mother's favorite fragrances, White Shoulders. Love the floral scent but remember thinking, "They need to change that name. The majority of world women's shoulders are not white. In fact, the thousands of white women who are journeying to the Caribbean daily would be quite dismayed themselves if they returned home with white shoulders!"
"Don't sweat the perfume issue," I thought as I exited the store, "The U. S. Virgin Islands are duty-free ports, remember, and noted for their good prices on name brand fragrances." As fate would have it, I was in for quite a delightful surprise when I reached the island and found that I would be interviewing a local fragrance manufacturer, Gail Garrison of Island
Fragrances. As a lover of the Caribbean islands and their beautiful tropical flowers, I would actually be able to purchase and indirectly take home the cherished floral fragrances of the isles while supporting a positive, enterprising woman business owner.
The company, Island Fragrances, is actually 18 years old, having been started
by a previous owner, Kay Mandry. Ms. Garrison, a former buyer/merchandise manager for a specialty store, purchased the business nine years ago from Susan and Walter Serpal. A native of the Bronx, New York, she has come to love the U. S. Virgin Islands and to love contributing to them through the distinctive island-derived products with which she has become associated.
When she purchased the company, it was manufacturing three fragrances. She now carries a line of 12 fragrances, as well as fragrance accessories such as dusting powder. All of the fragrances are gleaned from flowers and fruits indigenous to the U. S. Virgin Islands and Ms. Garrison does all of the mixing and compounding herself.
In addition, she has three fragrance lines--Island Florals and Nauticals which are sold in numerous prestigious fragrance shops on the island such as Tropicana, A. H. Riise, Parfum de Paris, and various other small shops. A duplicate of the line is packaged under private label such as Caneel Bay, a popular St. John resort which carries the fragrance under their name and label. Then there is Caribbean Scents, Ms. Garrison's third line which is available at Down Island Trader and the Pampered Pirate there in St. Thomas.
The products of this woman business owner are distinctive in that all are handwrapped and the body splash which comes in fragrances such as mango, banana, lime, and coconut, are sold in artfully decorated beverage bottles which have been recycled for this purpose. Inside each package of hand-wrapped items is a historical fact about the island and/or the particular fragrance; for example, the fact that pineapples are actually indigenous to the Caribbean even though they have come to be associated with Hawaii. The frangipani label informs the buyer that this lush fragrance was initially the favorite of Catherine of Medici who desired the "most exotic perfume in the world." Her personal perfumer, Emilio Frangipani, created the coveted fragrance from rare herbs, essences, and oil. In her gratitude the sovereign gave the fragrance his name. Centuries later when Columbus smelled the fragrance of a tree in the Caribbean, he identified it as Catherine's favorite fragrance; thus, the name stuck to the tree. (Wonder what was the name the early Amerindians had given it).
A Caribbean friend was fond of saying, "Every misfortune is a blessing", and my slight misfortune in not finding the desired fragrance to travel to the islands with me turned into the blessing of finding not only a small basket of five unique island scent bouquets to bring back home with me, (hibiscus, gardenia, frangipani, white ginger, and jasmine), but I was in the process able to spend my travel dollar at the business of an enterprising Black woman entrepreneur who spends over 60 hours a week on her work and who is employing the youth of the Virgin Islands and showing them how a business is run.
Since the fragrances are chemically manufactured and bottled right there on the premises of the Island Fragrances offices, she was kind enough to show me step by step how the perfumes are made, which subsequently formed the basis of an interesting lesson for my science class as well as a life motivation to the students who also learned of the struggles and accomplishments of this determined and very talented business owner.
When I smell these marvelous fragrances of the beautiful island flowers, I feel that I've captured a touch of the islands to carry back to New York with me-Gail Garrison's wonderful Island Fragrances.
While on this press visit, I was hosted by yet another enterprising woman entrepreneur, Luana Wheatley of Virgin Rhythms, Inc., which consists of a trio of women partners engaged in promoting tourism to the scenically stunning U. S. Virgin Islands, including the promotion of its varied cultural offerings. What a treat to have been surrounded by such positive cultural consciousness during a visit.
I have been to the U. S. Virgin Islands many times, yet I never tire of cultural traveling there, as each journey is a rich, exhilarating experience. Visiting the health-related facilities and the women-owned businesses furnished me with yet another treasured travel memory and valuable resource information to share with those interested in a refreshing, healthy soul nurturing getaway to culture-rich St. Thomas. For further information on unique Caribbean cultural getaways, read our new 226-page travel guide, Caribbean Bound! Culture Roots, Places, and People (available from Cultural Travel Publications, PO Box 5, Radio City Station, New York, NY 10101-0005;).
St. Thomas: Bolongo Bay by John Malaska
Thought I'd relate my experiences on the long weekend which I took with my wife and 2 children (ages 13-girl and 11-boy) to St. Thomas last month.
We arrived on a Thursday, and the weather was cloudy ... probably a residual effect of T.S. Gordon. We were told that it had rained the previous 6 six days!
We stayed at Bolongo Bay Resort (BBR), which is on the Caribbean side of STT, about 4 miles east of Charlotte Amalie. A tour bus operator (Tropical Tours?) picked us up at Cyril King Airport and took us and several other Bolongo
Resorts guests directly to nearby Limetree Resort, which is a sister resort to BBR, where we checked in. We then took another van to BBR, where we obtained our room key. The room (#118) had 2 double beds, a cot for one of the kids (which we had requested before we arrived), cable TV, telephone, a safe, small refrigerator, small range, and some utensils. The room itself was nothing luxurious, but the small balcony gave us a nice view of Buck and Capella Islands to the south; it was nice to see the cruise ships arrive and depart nearby Charlotte Amalie each day. But a band usually provided entertainment each night near the pool, which was directly under our room. They weren't too loud, and packed up there gear by about 10 PM.
We did not subscribe to the BBR All Inclusive plan, but we still received coupons for a free buffet breakfast each morning, cruises on BBR's large catamaran to St. John and Charlotte Amalie harbor for the sunset, and their scuba boat for snorkeling. Kayaks, paddleboats, snorkel gear, towels, and tennis rackets are also free for use by BBR guests. Additional complementary activities are available at Limetree.
Guests may use a free shuttle to connect to Limetree, but be aware that it only runs from each resort on the half-hour, so there is usually a big group waiting to get into it at each site, which resulted in some unhappy guests being left behind for the next shuttle. BBR also offers a $5 shuttle trip to Charlotte Amalie, Red Hook (where you catch ferries to the other Virgins), and Club Elysian (which is near Red Hook and is related to BBR).
The BBR beach was nice, quiet (BBR is small and never suffers from overcrowding), and had some interesting sea life in Bolongo Bay. My kids and I saw an octopus, eagle rays, and MANY sea urchins. They did take advantage of the free watersports described above, especially snorkeling. My son John liked feeding hibiscus blossoms to the resident iquanas each morning.
My daughter and I also used the free coupons to take a scuba trip together via St. Thomas Dive Club, which is located on the premises. An uncertified diver, Megan took a pool resort course in the morning, a guided beach dive later in the morning, and a dive trip to nearby Buck Island. The St. Thomas Dive Club staff were very good with her ... and me!
Since three of my wife's sisters (and their husbands) went with us to STT/SJ (they were staying elsewhere), we wanted to spend time with them. This required a car rental. I had rented a jeep in advance with Budget, but when I arrived at BBR, I found that my reservation was "overlooked". Fortunately, a lady at the gift shop (a Budget car rental facility) in BBR was able to get us a Mazda 323, which worked out fine.
Driving on the left-hand side of the road doesn't bother me ... my wife says that I'm dyslexic :-) It was a 15 minute trip to see some of the "out-laws" who were staying at Club Elysian on Cowpet Bay. I consider renting a car a necessity at STT. It allows you to explore the island, do the obligatory shopping, and find some nice places to eat. Another advantage for having a car rental is the ability to buy drinks and snacks at local grocery stores, rather than on-site at the resort where the prices are much greater. We brought a soft vinyl insulated cooler bag with us to tote our drinks when we went sightseeing.
By the way, Club Elysian is beautiful, but must be having some sort of financial problems. Staff at BBR were trying to get us involved in a timeshare pitch for Elysian.
We did take a ferry on Saturday to St. John. One of my sisters-in-law was staying on SJ at Gallows Point (which has very nice accommodations too). We spent the morning taking a taxi to Hawksnest Bay, which is picture- postcard beautiful with its blue water, white beaches, and nice coral reefs. The afternoon was spent kayaking from Cruz Bay to the Honeymoon Bay area ... nudists and all! St. John is a lovely place!
During our stay, we ate at Iggy's at Limetree, Lime Inn in St. John, East Coast Bar and Grill (Red Hook), and For The Birds (also near Red Hook). Only Iggy's was disappointing.
Shopping in Charlotte Amalie is overrated according to my wife. I priced an 8mm videocamera, and the price difference was not significantly better than the megastores in New Jersey. We spent more on liquor than anything else. But there is an effort being made to revitalize the downtown area. On Friday night, a Fall Fest was held there. The crowds were enormous, and that's without cruise ship passengers! Throughout our stay, crime was not a problem.
The car rental allowed us to visit Coki Beach (nice snorkeling when it isn't crowded), Sapphire Beach Resort with its nice grounds, Drake's Seat, Mountaintop (banana daiquiris and fantastic view of St. John and the BVIs), and Magen's Bay.
Weather was beautiful once the cloudiness of Thursday went away. Temperature between 85-90, and very humid due to the substantial rain which the island had just been blessed with. Mosquitoes and no-see-ums were present, so bug repellent is a good idea, as is a strong sunscreen.
Would I go back to STT?? Probably, but I don't know if I'd stay at BBR. BBR's facilities were quite good, but the room we had was too small for 4 people, and I think my wife prefers something a little fancier. Elysian or Sapphire Beach would be preferable ... and more expensive! For someplace quieter, Tortola in the BVI and St. John are recommended for those who prefer getting away from it all. BBR's activities did keep the kids happy, though.
We returned to New Jersey on Tuesday night. It was a great vacation!
Tobago: Culture by Linda Cousins/Amasewa Okomfo
(Ed Note: This file is copyrighted by TUAW Press l994. and is used here with the author's permission.)
For culture lovers who desire far more than a beach or bar scene during a vacation getaway, tropically tantalizing Tobago, particularly during its annual Heritage Festival, is a supreme travel treat. Tobago is a marvelous refreshment to the mind and Spirit year-'round, but the Tobago Heritage Festival, taking place from mid-July until Emancipation Day (August 1), is the highlight of the island's cultural offerings. Now is the perfect time to begin planning such a getaway.
Initiated by the noted historian, Dr. J. D. Elder, author of African Survivals in Trinidad and Tobago, the Tobago Heritage Festival brings together the diverse talents of Tobagonians and visiting Trinidadians in colorful displays of the music, dance, song, drama, art, folktales and vibrant drum rhythms of our ancestral African heritage there on the island. The events take place at varied venues across the island, and villagers from far and wide exhibit the highest and best of their cultural offerings for the enthusiastic throngs gathered to witness this popular annual event.
Among such offerings are the haunting music and entrancing dance of the Frenchinfluenced Kalinda and Belair passed down from the slave ancestors and performed with awe-inspiring beauty, grace, and precision by contemporary youth of the island villages who have been immersed in their ancestral culture in order to prepare them for these presentations. It is a joy to see the youth exhibit with such pride the cultural legacy of their forebears. Other events include a Rites of Passage, a Heritage and Junior Heritage Exposition, an African Night, a Calypso Competition and Steelband Festival, a Folktales and Superstitions event, displays of the early stick fighting art, the speech bands, (complete with wooden swords and scathingly humourous political and social satire), and a Harvest Choir Festival.
During the Festival guests are invited to "brush back with the Ole Time Wedding", featuring a middle-aged bride and rotund, pipe-smoking groom along with a host of attendants all of whom are decked out in elaborate wedding finery for the long-awaited event. The couple have generally been together for many years, but the Ole Time Wedding allows them to celebrate their union in grand fashion and really strut their stuff.
Wherever our people abide, we are avid aficionados of music and dance; thus, be assured that there are plenty of Carnival-like jump-ups which one can enjoy as either a lively participant or as a laid-back spectator. These include an Ole Time Carnival, a J'Ouvert Morning celebration, (a 5:00 a.m. street parade), as well as an Emancipation March to Market Square. Young children, skillfully trained as stilt-walking moko jumbis, another ancestral holdover, represent Trinidad's Kilimanjaro Cultural Centre at the Festival as well as in Trinidad itself which also has numerous emancipation activities on August 1st, the date of our people's liberation from bondage in this part of the world. If that's not enough dancing, join weekend party people at the "Sunday School", a Sunday evening (ten-ish) island dance scene held weekly in Buccoo Village in the vicinity of Henderson's Disco.
Delectable Tobagonian foods, such as the much-in-demand crab 'n dumplin', are in tasty abundance throughout the Heritage Festival and particularly at the Tribute to the Sea where every conceivable delicacy hailing from Mother Ocean is prepared and served at this greeting of the dawn food festival. Never fear; if you can't wait until next July to get to gorgeous Tobago, "good eatin'" as my grandmother would say, is available throughout the year at this natureblessed earth isle. Miss Esme's and Miss Jean's beachside restaurants on Store Bay are local cuisine spots that lure visitors and Tobagonians as well. For a bit more formal yet equally as relaxing dining enjoyment, Rouselle's, an Arawakdecored spot, owned by a former airline attendant, is another must-experience. The callaloo soup there is noted to rank among the best in TandT. You certainly won't want to return home without a trip to the pretty fishing village of Charlotteville, home of Gemma's Treehouse Restaurant and the island culinary treats for which this establishment has become internationally known. Might want to bring along your swimming togs for a refreshing dip here as it is near one of the island's lovely, semi-secluded aquatic spots.
Although the famed Buccoo Reef has seen better days, having lost a great deal of its coral, it is still a must-see scenic spot while on this lovely island. Don't forget to bring a swimsuit along for a dip in the crystal clear waters of Nylon Pool and for a snorkeling adventure available to beginners and experienced pros alike. The Davis brothers, operating out of the reef, give a topnotch tour of site with a welcomed personalized touch.
Tobago is exceptionally rich in African culture and history. A unique touch of our ancient culture and history can be experienced firsthand at Richmond Great House, a former plantation house overlooking the sea and owned by Dr. Hollis R. Lynch, noted scholar and former head of Columbia University's African Studies Department. Dr. Lynch is reputed to possess the largest collection of African artifacts and textiles in the Caribbean, and the rooms of the mansion are bedecked with the glory of our ancestry--from walls draped with vast yardages of kente cloth to intricately carved African statues to brilliantly shined Asante stools. Dr. Lynch is also an expert and author of several books on the illustrious Pan-Africanist scholar, Edward Wilmot Blyden. What a triumphant irony of history that this plantation where African people were once enslaved is now owned by a scholar on African history who has filled it with the glory of our ancestral motherland! Do make arrangements to visit the museum while in Tobago (809/660-4467), or perhaps you might even want to enjoy the comfortable accommodations there, as there are several rooms available for travelers. A large swimming pool and acreage bedecked with lovely tropical flowers and foliage surround this peaceful spot.
Purchase of the artful crafts of Tobago can be made at numerous sites throughout the island including Craft Galore at the IDC Mall in Scarborough (near the Cruise Ship Complex) and Kawame African Arts and Crafts on Wilson Road. You may also want to drop by the Mt. Irvine studio museum, (Fairyhaus), of German artist Luise Kimme to view her towering wooden sculptures reflecting Tobagonian culture. While on the roadways of the island, look for the multicolored flags waving in the wind which represent the Shango Baptist (Shouter Baptist) faith of the island which is a mixture of Africanisms with Christianity. I regretted that the busyness of my Heritage Festival activities did not allow me to look up Rev. Eudora Thomas (author of A History of the Shouter Baptists in Trinidad and Tobago)--another item for the must-do-nexttime list. However, was glad to meet cultural scholar, Joan Bacchus-Xavier, locally-born author of travel guides on both Trinidad and Tobago. Look forward to reading her works.
You'll also want to drop by the Tobago Trust Heritage Museum (Fort King George) which houses artifacts from the African and Amerindian presence on the island. The Tobago Art Museum is just across the way. There is also a magnificent view of the island from this locale. The curator, Mr. Edward Hernandez, is a talented artist whose work, "Passages", illustrate the rich folklore of the island, including the legend of Gan Gan Sarah, a mystical African healer from the slavery era, who resting place is in Golden Lane. I saw this African sheroe referred to as a "witch" in a travel guide. Au contraire, I found during my stay there that she is a powerful ancestor whose contribution is revered by Tobagonians.
Speaking of art, the Kariwak Village hotel is popular for its exhibits of local creators' works as well as the artful design of its rooms, constructed to resemble an Amerindian village. There are numerous fine guest houses and reasonably-priced hotels like the Kariwak in Tobago--from the elegant luxury spot, Mt. Irvine Bay Hotel and Golf Club with its large finely furnished rooms and huge patios within peeking distance of the Caribbean Sea to the Conrado Beach Resort, a modestly priced facility on Swallows Point Beach. The hotel is within walking distance of Pigeon Point Beach, site of numerous photo shoots depicting Caribbean island beauty. (Second floor rooms at the Conrado provide a better beach view.) By the way, a rental car to enable you to move around Tobago at your leisure can be a godsend. We found the Thrifty Car Rentals, located a few steps from the airport, to be an excellent, reasonably priced service.
Travelers to Trini's Carnival, the historic queen of island festivals and performance arts in motion, may want to chill out from the fast-paced action of this world-renowned event by retreating to Tobago for the placid beauty, peace, and serenity that even Trinidadians themselves spend many a weekend enjoying. Prior to my visit to Tobago, I found that when I would mention the island, a smile of reminiscent pleasure would grace the faces of those who had the privilege of journeying there, and they'd sigh dreamily and say, "Oh, you'll loo-o-ve Tobago!" How right they were. Tropically tantalizing Tobago, particularly at Heritage Festival time, revels with a dramatic display and reverent island regard of our ancestral African culture; yet throughout the year Tobago is a beauteous island that soothes the Spirit and nurtures the soul.
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