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Carribean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 51
January
1, 1995
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Back to Index January 1995
Jamaica: T-Water Beach Hotel Negril by Jill Cozzi
Nice Room Location? Whether it was a Liberty Travel thing, a GoGo Tours thing, or the FAX we had sent to hotel manager Michelle Thame a week before, indicating how much we looked forward to our third T-Water stay and requesting a second floor room, we were upgraded to a beachfront room, following a welcome hug from security head Joy Cooper (such hugs being reserved for "repeaters"). Ms. Cooper is a very stern looking woman but once you know her, you'll be crazy about her.
Rooms at the T-Water are comfortable, if not luxurious. All have a/c AND ceiling fans, and while the management requests that a/c be turned off when you leave the room, they do not use devices like key cards for the a/c. Rooms also have openable louvers, and during cool times of year, the louvers and fans are adequate for cooling. Some rooms are currently carpeted, but the carpeting in all rooms is gradually being replaced by high-quality white tile, for easier cleaning.
Beachfront rooms (about 8 on first floor, 3 on second floor) are literally right on the beach. The only drawback to these rooms is that they are close to the bar and if you want to fall asleep to the sound of the Jamaican night, you are out of luck. These rooms are somewhat narrower than the standard rooms, and the space between bed and desk is quite narrow. These rooms currently have certain amenities not shared by the standard rooms: TV (which gets the NYC ABC affiliate, HBO, CNN, BET, and JBC); in-room safe; love seat, and refrigerator. I'm told that TV's and refrigerators are planned for all rooms, but until then, for those who need to know how the Dow closed, there is a TV lounge.
For standard rooms, safe deposit boxes are available at the front desk; requiring a $100 U.S. deposit or credit card imprint which is refunded upon return of the key at departure. Poolside rooms are at the street end of the complex, surrounding a small swimming pool and jacuzzi. There is a poolside bar, but we have never been at the T-Water when it has been open.
The T-Water, which from all accounts deteriorated to some degree in the later years of its founder's life, continues to be revitalized under the excellent management of Mr. Desmond Segre's widow and children. New gardens were planted in 1991, the beachside dining room underwent renovation, new mattresses and bathroom vanities appear to be being gradually installed, and a variety of planned activities occur daily. There is also a second-floor sundeck from which non-beachfront residents who don't want to be right on the beach can watch the sunset. This deck also has a jacuzzi.
The primary strength of the T-Water is its friendly, long-term staff. While some Negril hotels experience high turnover, T-Water employees appear to stay for a long time and seem very loyal to their employer. Unlike the Negril Inn, where we often heard employees griping about the ownership, T-Water employees take a genuine pride in the revitalization of their place of employment. Repeat guests are appreciated and by the third trip, you are truly a member of the TWater family. Of particular note, in addition to Joy Cooper, is Earl the dining room manager, whose efficient running of the restaurant is like watching an artist at work. Earl enjoys his tips, and if he likes the tips you leave, will do anything for you. Bartender Donald Spike likes T-Water guests so much he's been known to visit them in the U.S. while he is on vacation. Beachside security guard Mr. Grant looks like he's sleeping all day, but don't be fooled.
A word about security: T-Water security is unobtrusive, but don't be fooled.
Joy and her staff see everything and know everything. With rooms directly on the beach, security is important, and you are very safe at the T-Water. If you go off on a tour, they know where you are, even if you don't tell them. This may seem disconcerting, but if you have friends looking for you or even if you've just gone into town, it's nice to know that someone will notice if you don't come back!
The T-Water believes in providing anything that the guests may need. The entertainment office will book tours, shopping trips, sunset cruises, and other excursions. The hotel has its own group of approved taxis. A glass bottom boat, the "Local Motion," anchors at the T-Water, and its operators seem to also be employed by the hotel. They'll do snorkel trips to the reef for $15 U.S. or island picnics (and they are great cooks) for $30 U.S. These guys have a truly great job. When they're not taking visitors on boat trips, their job seems to be to schmooze with the guests at the bar and escort unaccompanied young ladies around to the clubs.
For those who want to sample some of the local vegetation, I can't be sure, but it has seemed as though there is always a "designated guy" to help you in that area. You'll know who he is, and he'll be discreet, as should you.
The Negril Scuba Centre is located right next door at the Negril Beach Club, and parasailing is also nearby. Evening babysitting is available from T-Water women staffers. The front desk can set you up with someone and you'll work out the rate with the sitter.
There are beach higglers and then there are "itinerant vendors", which have their own association in Negril. For horseback riding and YS Falls trips, as well as airport service if necessary, we highly recommend talking to Wayne Sweeney of Country and Western Tours. You'll probably see Wayne on the beach.
He is a very handsome young fellow with a brown leather filofax-type thing which has photos of his YS Falls tours and receipts. You can reach Wayne at (809) 955-3537. Tell him that Steve and Jill recommended you and that we're the real tall guy with the real short wife who swim up to Swept Away and back. We really don't swim that far, but we swim far, and way out at sea and he'll know who you mean. Your T-Water package will also include buffet breakfast and a soup/salad lunch. Breakfast is a full Jamaican breakfast, usually consisting of eggs, a daily Jamaican special (usually ackee and saltfish, calaloo and salt fish, rundown, sausage and beans, corned beef hash, or mackerel), pancakes or French toast, johnnycake (these are truly wonderful), boiled banana (avoid these like the plague...imagine a banana boiled in fish broth till all the taste is gone), bacon, cold cereal, toast, muffin or cake, fruit, juice, and coffee.
Lunch is good soup with bread and a small variety of salads. For those who want something more substantial, a grill operates from 12 to 4, offering jerk chicken and other grilled items, at reasonable cost. The restaurant has greatly expanded its offerings at dinner, now including both continental specialties and Jamaican dishes. The bar is friendly and inexpensive, with rum blender drinks running about J$65, which translates to about two dollars.
(For other nearby dining options, we recommend the Beach House Cafe, which is right next door to the T-Water, the Bar-B-Barn, which is a few doors up the beach, and we also had a lovely dinner at the Negril Palm Beach Hotel, which was a bit pricier, but also very good.)
Inflation in Jamaica is currently running at about 40%. This WILL affect your costs once in Negril. A dinner of steamed fish that was J$300 last year is still J$300, but that translates to $10.00 now instead of $6.00 . If you don't bring enough money, Scotia Bank and NCB in town will do Visa cash advances.
They will want to see your passport. Because of the inflation, against which wages do not keep up, tipping is more important than ever. As Rob Morrow says in the Master Card Ad, "as any waiter will tell you, how much you tip is a measure of how good a person you are."
The police presence in Negril makes itself known. A boat patrols the beach side, a group of three officers patrols the beach all day, and we were able to go into town for the first time without being hassled. With the exception of Pete's Restaurant on the beach, which still seems to attract a fair number of low-end higglers, the scene has been greatly cleaned up, and much more hasslefree than we have experienced in previous years.
Accommodations in Negril still follow the rule of "the cliffs, the beach, and the all-inclusives." Among the latter category, the major clubs are expensive, and the Negril Inn has weaknesses that I've discussed in forum messages. The TWater, although there is occasionally entertainment, is not a place for those who like to party into the wee hours, although transportation to clubs and bars along the beach is available. But if your idea of a vacation is a friendly wellkept hotel, fresh food, inexpensive drinks, and if you tend to be an early-tobed, early-to-rise person (and early morning on the beach is the best time of day), you can't do better than the T-Water.
Jamaica: San Souci by Debbie Hoffren
Tuesday
Tuesday was our first day of vacation. We awoke at 5 a.m., got dressed, took out the trash, and loaded up the car. I was worried about the traffic on the way to the airport, since it was a regular work day for most folks. We got there in time to part at the remote lot, $4 per day. Continental now has a remote check in in the parking lot. We checked Todd's golf clubs through to Jamaica. I had just bought two great Samsonite bags that pull and carry on, since most of our luggage got ruined in the Houston flood we experienced on October 18. We also took the video camera and a bag full of magazines. The bus had us at the terminal at 7 a.m. We were at our gate at 7:10, in time to board.
We took Continental to Miami because Todd had won his round trip ticket to Miami at a computer show. They fed us a bagel and raisins. We got into Miami at 10:50 a.m., 10 minutes early. Our American flight to Montego Bay wasn't to leave until 1:20, so we found our gate (in another concourse, of course) and some food. Todd had Burger King, I had pizza. We both had something to drink. The total for all of this was $20. The flight to Montego Bay fed us a sandwich (Todd ate both of ours), banana chips (we still have these), and a cookie. This flight arrived in Montego Bay at 2:45 p.m. The plane was not at all full (though there were three in our row)--the only one on the plane with a full row. We got through customs very quickly and got Todd's golf clubs. He had two free Red Stripes and we were on our way at 3:!5 in a van with a Japanese couple.
We arrived at 5:!5 and were greeted, Welcome Home". The lobby was full of plush cherry wood furniture with rose colored fabric. We checked in and were given drinks form the bar-I had champagne-Todd had white wine. They put a cherry in my champagne. In our room. Twiggy gave us a mini orientation of the property The bellman came immediately with our bags. Our room (D26) had a separate bedroom with king-size bed, a dresser, two end tables, and a large chair and living room with two chairs, two end tables, and a coffee table. It also had a television with satellite TV. When we got there, the TV wasn't working. The living room had a partial ocean/partial garden view. Another nice feature in the room was a refrigerator with soda, spring water, and beer. Nearby was a teapot with a variety of tea and instant coffee. At that time, I thought the room didn't have a balcony, but I later discovered it at the side of the room. I didn't like it because a guard was always standing outside it. The marble bathroom had a jacuzzi big enough for two.
When we arrived, the afternoon tea was in progress near the Balloon Bar. We didn't attend. I explored and found two pools, one with a waterfall and one mineral pool, and an aviary, the gym, the beach and beach bar, and tennis courts.
We tried the jacuzzi in the room. It was nice, but it wasn't as deep as ours at home. Also, the faucets were difficult to control. Our first experience with room service was to order a bottle of white wine. They said five minutes, but it was thirty. The maid came by and turned down the bed just before 7:30. Unfortunately, our keys were in the spread she took off and were lost for quite awhile after that.
Our first night, they had dinner on the beach, Carnival Night. It started at 7:30. We arrived at 7:30, and there was already a line. Some platters were already almost empty. There were beautiful ice sculptures. This buffet was definitely Jamaican theme. In addition to snapper, curried chicken, etc., they had squid, oxtails, and cows feet. This was our least favorite meal the entire week. However, the waiters will bring wine or any bar drinks. The deserts were very good also. The staff taught people reggae. Although we didn't participate, it was nice to be outside and hear the music. We were sitting next to the ocean. We left about ten and went to swing in a hammock. Todd got bit by a HUGE ant. Also at this resort are a few mosquitoes, but not very many.
It was good to be back in a king size bed again. We are missing ours since the Houston flood. We will buy a new one when construction is done on our first floor and we move back into our bedroom. Each night, I folded my pillow in half with half over my ear. The birds outside our room were noisy. Todd slept like a baby.
Wednesday
The previous night, I put our room service breakfast ticket on the door. I asked for it at 7 a.m. It arrived at 6:21. It was bacon croissants, and fruit plates. I ate in the jacuzzi in the room. Todd ate in the living room.
At 9 am., I went to the aerobics class. It is held Monday through Saturday in an open pavilion near the ocean. Todd went to the gym below at 9:45 for his token workout. Next, we found Charlie the turtle, located the jacuzzi, and the spa and some beautiful places overlooking the reef. I climbed up a rock, jumped down, and fell. Of course, I got all scratched up. So much for youth!
We walked down to the beach and tried the water trike. It was better than most because it had propellers. It was not nearly as much work as most. Next, we hit some tennis balls. I was not very good, so it was a lot of exercise for me.
The beach bar begins serving lunch at noon. At 11:30, they were not ready, but when we sat down at noon, there were 15 people already eating. We had a hamburger and shared fries. Todd also had a hot dog. They also serve grilled chicken thigh and leg.
At 12:30, we both had a half hour massage (not together). It was overlooking the ocean, but not out in the hideaway or retreat.. They do a nice full-body massage, but the back side only. After the massage, I had a facial. It was very nice. I think they put cucumbers over my eyes like in the brochure. Todd went to 1:15 9 hole golf at Jamaica Jamaica. He played 13 holes and gave the caddie $15. The other times he played, he gave them more. The schedule said they would return at 4. He was back at 5:15.
At 1:30, I went to the Palazzini for lunch, even though I wasn't hungry. They mostly had an Italian theme. They also had turkey, dressing, and cranberry sauce. I had tortellini and scallops, salad, and a fruit tart. I brought a Diet Pepsi from the fridge in the room and also had wine. Nearby, a lot of folks were laying on the beach reading.
After my second lunch, I came back to the room to see if the t.v. was working -- it was not. I stopped by to see if they were having the bike tour and learn about the Plantation Tour (no longer included). I ran into Twiggy. She said she would get our t.v. fixed so Todd could watch football on Thanksgiving. The guys came right away. I saw part of two soap operas.
Todd was still at golf. I ordered a bottle of wine to have when he came back. It came about 3 minutes after I hung up the phone. At 4 p.m., I took the bike ride to Harmony Hall. There were quite a few hills, so it was a workout!! Harmony Hall was built in 1886. They sell arts and crafts there. A Japanese girl lost control of her bike near the end of the ride and crashed into me. Luckily, I saw her and was not hurt. She was banged up and really upset.
When I got back to the room, Todd showed up 5 minutes later from golf. He had lost his glasses. We went on a big hunt for them. They never did turn up, so he was in his sunglasses day and night the rest of the trip. That made for interesting conversation.
At 5:30, I went to the orientation. I already knew everything they said by then. I did meet an older American couple. This was the second Americans I had met in two days. All others were Japanese or German. Most did not speak English.
After the orientation, we got ready for dinner at Cassanova. Hint: you must reserve for dinner at all restaurants by 6 p.m. Do this at 8 or so in the morning, unless you enjoy eating at 9 or 9:30. They would always book only so many at each half hour, but the restaurants were never near capacity. No one could figure this out. I had called to book Terraza that day, since it was Italian night, but it was booked until 9:30, so we took Cassanova at 7. Todd wore a jacket, silk shirt, and slacks. Most men had on jackets. A few had on golf shirts. I wore a new silk dress. Women had on dresses, but most weren't that fancy. We were brought a menu and wine list. The wine list had 6 whites, 5 red, and two champagnes. We had Savignon et vil Vouvrey. It has Chenin Blanc grapes and was excellent. Todd thought the raspberry butter tasted like sorbet. First course--appetizer: Todd: salmon with shrimp and scallops. It was in a big mound and tasted like a salmon croquette. They offered that every night. I had beef tips. They were tender and delicious. Second course: shrimp and scallop bisque. It was a thick and tasty soup. Third course-salad: Todd-chicken with vinaigrette. Me-greens with raspberry venegarette. Both good-his was better. Fourth course-New York Steak--melt in your mouth.
It came with very tasty vegetables and a nice I ate half my steak. Todd ate his and the rest of mine, For the 5th course , Todd had fruit pastry pyramid.
I had champagne sorbet with raspberry sauce. During dinner, a took our picture. He came around almost every night. The pictures are displayed the next morning and cost $6 each. You are not obligated to buy them.
After dinner, we changed and went to the outdoor jacuzzi. It was great, but too hot for Todd. We put a toe in the little mineral grotto. Todd was afraid the fish would bit us. Back in the room, he watched a movie. I went to sleep.
Thursday
This was Thanksgiving morning. Instead of the usual Thanksgiving cooking chores, I watched the Macy's parade for awhile. They were all cold while I was in tropical paradise. As I did each morning, I made a pot of tea. I got Todd up, and we went to the breakfast buffet. We were disappointed that they had no omelets and a smaller selection than most resorts. They had French toast, pancakes, bacon, sausage, potatoes, fruit, oatmeal, toast, bagels, and pastries. We did not try it all. Of what we did try, some was good, some wasn't. Later in the trip, we discovered that they have a menu which has eggs to order, including omelets and eggs benedict, and mimosas and bloody Mary's also, for those interested in that.
After breakfast, we went up to the bus going to Jamaica Jamaica to have the driver look for Todd's glasses.
Later in the morning, we walked down to the Prospect Plantation. The road to it was near San Souci, but it was long. The tour bus was to leave at 10:30 but left at 11:05 after a guy sang to us for tips. We gave him $1. The tour cost $12 each. We saw many fruits, spices and coffee growing. We tasted coconut and coconut milk. We watched a guy climb a coconut tree. At the end, everyone wanted a tip. They did give us rum punch.
We got back to San Souci at 12:45. We put the cameras back in the room and went to Charlie's spa. Todd had a body scrub at 1:00. I had a facial. I had to sign a disclaimer since it had been less than 48 hours since I had the last one At 1:30, Todd had a facial, and I had a body scrub. The body scrub was in a room down by the ocean where they feed Charlie. This is not for the modest. In comparing experiences, Todd and I discovered that you get the same treatment, whether you are a man or woman. I stripped with her in the room.
Then I lay on my stomach uncovered. She sprayed my down with a shower massage nozzle. She then spread cornmeal all over me. After that, she rinsed off the cornmeal, and rubbed me down with aloe vera gel. I turned over, and she repeated the procedure on the front side. Todd was embarrassed when he had this done. He decided he would stick only to massage.
Back in the room, Todd watched football. I changed and went to the beach. An older European lady took her top off but didn't bother anyone, and no one bothered her. Around 4 p.m., I got some French fries, a glass of wine for me, and a hummingbird for Todd. I balanced the fries on some magazines and carried both drinks in one hand. I had checked the buffet. It was not Thanksgivinglike.
That night, we had dinner at the Terraza at 7:30. For some reason, the staff was not ready that night. We waited to be seated. The food was good. This was also a five course meal. The rain came by the fourth course, so we took our dessert to the room. The chocolate mousse was sinfully delicious. We fell asleep watching t.v.
Friday
Todd went to play golf. He was gone from 8-3:45. I laid on the beach a couple of hours after aerobics with weights. I had lunch at the buffet. After discovering the pasta menu, I ordered some to go for Todd. They don't tell you about the menu, you have to see it. It rained off and on when I was at the beach. The tide came up and got everyone's stuff all wet. I went back to the room at 2 p.m. because Todd still thought our extra room key was lost. The maid had found it that day after he left.
Around 6:30, we got dressed up. At 6:30, we went to the beach bar to watch them put up the gala night spread. It was all lit up like the brochure, but it rained and they had it in Palazzina. They let everyone in at 7:30 sharp. The place was packed. The specialty was lobster. I had FIVE tails. Todd had three. I ate little else except four grilled shrimp. They had a larger salad selection than usual. Though we don't eat it, there was a large choice of sushi. They also had carved roast beef. For dessert, I had some of a mousse and some of a fruit tart. I was so full from the lobster, I almost gagged. I brought a tail back in a napkin and ate it for breakfast the next day.
Saturday
At 8 a.m., we hit tennis balls until it rained. Then we went to breakfast.
That was the day we discovered the egg menu. That improved my opinion of the breakfast, since the buffet is not that large. Ordering from a menu is better than standing in line to get an omelet or something. The quality is good, however. I went to aerobics at 9 a.m. It was the male teacher again (Dave).
He does a lot of good work for the thighs. Todd went to the gym for a few minutes. We relaxed on the beach for awhile.
At 11 o'clock, I had a manicure and pedicure. When I came back, Todd was watching football, so I went to the beach. After some wine, we took a nap. That's unbelievable for me. Next, we went to the beach for burgers and fries. After that was bingo with Twiggy. I won a San Souci Lido tank top and a San Souci paper clip holder with white paper clips.
That night at dinner, we went to Cassanova. We were full and did not finish our food. We went to bed early.
Sunday
We got in the jacuzzi that morning. At 9:30, we went to the Palazzini for breakfast. By then, they knew us and offered us a menu. The waitress knew I liked hot tea and Todd liked orange juice. I was feeling more at home.
After breakfast, we put on swimsuits and kayaked and rode the sea trike. At 11:30, we got on the glassbottom boat with three other guest, one American couple and a British lady, and two staff members. When we got a ways out, they stopped the boat so the fish would come up to the boat. After that, the boat would not start. After 10 minutes, another boat came along. We had to move to that boat. What an experience getting everyone over there! After that, we guzzled Diet Pepsis since room service was out of the bottled ones they put in the refrigerator. They were out the last four days of our trip. We spent some time in a hammock discussing the prime minister, since we had seen him and he was staying across the hall from us.
At 2 p.m., we both had a massage. I had mine in the hideaway over the ocean. Inez gave me this one. It was good. Todd had another massage also. His was short. At 2:30, room service delivered a beef tenderloin and a chicken breast with cheese on top. Both had vegetables and a sort of fried potato.
At 3 p.m., we went to bingo on the beach. Dave led this. We sat with the people we met on the glassbottom boat. I won a poster, a money clip, a pocket knife, a magnet, and a swimsuit cover-up, all with the San Souci logo. Todd got a money clip as a consolation prize. Bingo lasted over two hours.
We read awhile and went to dinner at Terraza at 7 p.m. Their theme was Oriental and Exotic Night. For appetizer, I had a spring roll, one of the best I've tasted. Todd had steamed wontons. We had soup, Todd's was an oriental noodle, mine was crab (fake). The salad Todd had was chilled stir fry over noodles-very interesting. I had greens. The entree was stir fry beef and shrimp. It tasted like Japanese chopped steak. Dessert was not good that night. Todd's cheese plate was missing the biscuits. My ice cream was melted. We were too full anyway. The previous time we were at the Terraza, we were given a wine list, though they shared the bottle with others. This time, we were not given a wine list. The Terraza is slower than the Cassanova. We found that dinner at Cassanova took one hour. Dinner at Terraza took 90 minutes.
We ordered champagne in the room and watched t.v. It took them 40 minutes to bring it.
Monday
The 7 a.m. breakfast came at 6:53. The croissant was not good that morning.
The fruit was excellent that day. I had mango and pineapple. After breakfast, we got into the jacuzzi.
At 8:15, Todd left for golf. I stayed in the tub and read a magazine for a while. Just before 9 a.m., I called about the laundry that was due back the previous day. They acted like they had been finished with it awhile and brought it to the room immediately. Another guest we spoke to had the same experience. This was a nice service, but you have to check up on it.
I went to aerobics, but no one else came, so they did not have the class. I worked out in the gym instead. Next, I went to the gift shop to buy some magazines for the trip back. They had only a limited selection. I also checked out the library at the resort, but most books were not in English.
From 10-12, I went to the beach to sunbathe. I had water and Diet coke. I went to the outdoor jacuzzi. It was not very warm. I noticed that every other day, the pool man emptied it and it was not full again until after 1 p.m. and not warm until after 2 p.m.
At 12:30, I went to the Palazzini for lunch. This time, the waitress knew the wine I liked and asked if I wanted to order pasta. What a change. They had some good pepper steak and bbq ribs. The Ceasar's salad was good. I watched my soap operas back in the room and waited for Todd. The t.v. went off and on several times.
I sat with Todd while he ate. At 4 p.m., I went to yoga while Todd went to tennis. The yoga teacher had hair almost to the floor. She said she had not cut it since New Year's Eve 15 years ago. I was more flexible than she was.
By that day, it was really getting annoying having so much staff hanging out outside our room. They were all of the prime minister's security.
That evening, we watched the sunset and then got in the jacuzzi in our room.
At 7:30, we went to Cassanova. The veal appetizer was almost raw. In general, we had the same dinner as the night we had the New York steaks. This time, however, I had the raspberry mouse and pastry pyramid. It was very good. Todd had fruit and cheese. After dinner, we went to the island show. It was short but good. Twiggy was the emcee. There were dancers and a guy that juggled and breathed fire. We relaxed a little and had champagne in our room.
Tuesday, November 29
We got up for breakfast, picture taking and video taping. Todd fed Charlie. We finished packing, and they came for our bags. We were on the bus at 10. The trip back was the usual. We didn't enjoy claiming our bags in Miami but had plenty of time to get them rechecked. We were told the wrong terminal and took quite a jog around the airport. We shared a slice of pizza by our gate. We got home near 9 p.m.
General comments on San Souci Lido:
The welcome is very nice. Some of the staff is very friendly. I think they are used to very few people speaking English. This is a good place to stay if you want to be left alone. The activities they have are fun, but not as many are offered as at some resorts. If you want to meet a bunch of people, this may not be the place. Almost every day, there were one or two women topless, but this is not the place for c/o. Also, there is only one jacuzzi on the property, other than in the rooms. The spa treatments are nice, but sign up early. If you've had one round, you have to call the same day to get a second set of treatments. You can only get in if they are not full. The room service speed is inconsistent, but usually prompt. They will bring anything you want and aim to please. This is a nice perk. The resort was not as dressy as we expected. There is no safe deposit box in the room, but they have them at the front desk. Call early each morning for your dinner reservation. The resort has a lot of musicians around. There are a lot of steps. My favorite resort is still Couples. It was more romantic, had more activities, and the food was better overall. Todd's favorite is still Jamaica Jamaica since there were a lot of activities and the golf was right there.
Montserrat by Mary Ann Gerberick
I just got back from a week long trip on Montserrat, an absolutely wonderful island! Here's the run down: A very green lush island (they don't call it the "Emerald Isle of the Caribbean" for nothing), looked somewhat like a scaled down version of a Hawaiian island, very mountainous and green.
I had a great villa rental in Isles Bay area (the Hollywood hills of Montserrat), 4 bd with pool overlooking the Caribbean and the Isles of Redonda and Nevis in the distance. The beaches were black sand and not very numerous, although they were nice I would not recommend Montserrat for beaches. But the best things about Montserrat were: very little tourism (2 or 3 hotels on island), very friendly people, they would just wave at you as you drove past, it was also a very safe island, the prison held only four prisoners who according to our villa concierge were allowed to break out every night to be with their girl friends!
Our villa service was extraordinary, compared to other isles we have been to, they weren't on "island time", they responded immediately to our requests. We were picked up at the airport and taken to our villa, and awaiting in our driveway were two jeeps (we requested) and the villa was stocked with food (also by request) and was at a very reasonable cost.
The hike to great alps water falls was worth the 45 min. trek.
Food at Ida's was terrific! But to sum it all up, Montserrat is for people who like: quiet islands (little night life), friendly people and unending beauty, as well as the best food I've had in the Caribbean and let's face it the Caribbean stinks for cuisine, but in Montserrat I had some very tasty food.
Puerto Rico: Guanica Forest Preserve by Harry S. Pariser
(Ed Note: This article is copyrighted and used here with Harry Pariser's permission.)
Reserva Forestal Guanica, several beautiful beaches (Mangrillo Grande and Playa Jaboncillo), and the place where the Americans landed during the 1898 invasion are all situated around this pleasant town of 9,000. The small but pleasant town has a nice boardwalk. Its ambiance is marred only by the chicken factory and the fertilizer factory. The reserve itself is one of the finest examples of cactus-scrub-subtropical dry forest in the world. It was designated by the United Nations as a Man and the Biosphere Reserve in 1975. Its dryness is assured by the Cordillera Central which catches most of the rain before it reaches the coast. Encompassing over 1,620 acres (4,000 ha), it has 36 mi. (57 km) of old roads and trails. Over 700 species of trees and plants are protected here, and vegetation inside the reserve includes aroma (acacia) and guayacan (lignum vitae) trees as well.
Adjoining the forest is 164 acres fronting the Bahia Ballena which was purchased by the Conservation Trust and the Department of Natural Resources for $1.7 million in 1992. It had originally been slated for a $ 12 million Club Med resort. Local resident Miguel Canas, a local resident and leader of the fight, discovered that the sapo concho, a toad thought to have been extinct, resided in the area, and the planned resort would have restricted its movements and endangered its well being. Plans are to develop tours and a variety of nature exhibits here.
Getting there: Take Carr. 335 to the end of the road in Sector Jabonillo where there's a ranger station with information and restrooms. From the NE of the town of Guanica, Carr. 334 leads to the reserve and ranger station. Several
dirt roads (no vehicles allowed) are the best place to hike along from there. Carr. 333 runs along the reserve's perimeter; an unmarked trail along it leads to the ranger station. At the ranger station be sure to pick up literature including the superb A Guide to Trails of Guanica by Beth Farnsworth.
Fauna: The guabairo (Puerto Rican whippoorwill) survives on the island only in this reserve. Some of the other 40 species of birds found here include the troupial, the orange-cheeked waxbill (an introduced W African native), the Caribbean elaenia, the Puerto Rican bullfinch, the Puerto Rican nightjar (once thought to be extinct), and the Puerto Rican tody. The crested toad is born in pools but lives in limestone crevices. The green and leatherback turtles still lay their eggs along the coast, but mongooses are posing a threat to the eggs and hatchlings. The Ameiva wetmorei is a black-bodied lizard which has racing stripes on its back and a blue iridescent tail. Also be sure to watch out for the "crazy ants" which are common.
Arboreal Ecosystems: Comprising nearly two thirds of the reserve's area, the deciduous forest contains largely young trees. During the dry season (Dec. to April), almost half of the trees here shed their leaves which release nutrients into the soil. During the end of the dry season, many of its trees flower and fruit. Check the trees for orchids and termite nests as well as the tiny green Puerto Rican tody and the brown lizard cuckoo (which can be spotted by its black and white tail). Covering about a fifth of the reserve's area and largely confined to moist ravines, valleys, and sinkholes, the semi-evergreen forest contains plants which are more commonly found at higher and damper altitudes. The dry scrub forest contains stunted trees and cacti. Many of its shrubs are members of the Rubiaccae, the coffee family; they may be recognized by their thorns, small opposing leaves, and tiny white tubular flowers. The coastal forest faces low rainfall and salty wind spray. Its shrunken and twisted trees attest to the harshness of its environment. In this area you can spot buttonwood mangroves, sea grapes, and milkweed. Other parts of the reserve have been used as plantations and are in recovery.
Accommodations: Jack's Guest House (tel. 821-2738/5117; Box 988, Guanica, PR 00653) is along Carr. 333 on the way to Playa Gorda. Next door, there are apartments for rent call 821-1168. Mary Lee's By the Sea Cabanas (tel. 8213600) is at San Jacinto in Cana Gorda. You can camp at Cana Gorda's balneario (Carr. 333, Km 5.9). Copamarina Beach Resort (tel. 821-0505, fax 821-0070; Box 805, Guanica, PR 00653), at km. 6.5 along Carr. 333, has undergone a $10 million renovation and has expanded from 75 to 125 rooms with a new marina and 15 privately-owned villas being added. Rooms include a/c, cable TV, and phone. Its other facilities include tennis courts, swimming pool, and the nearby "Gilligan's Island," an offshore key with mangroves and a beach. Its LK Sweeny and Son is a gourmet seafood restaurant. Rates run at about $128 s or d. Corporate, government, senior citizen, midweek, and other special rates are available as are "ecotourism" and "physical fitness" packages. For more information call (800) 468-4553 in the US and (800) 981-4676 in Puerto Rico. In Guayanilla to the E at Km 204 on Carr. 12, Pichi's Hotel (Box 115, Guayanilla, PR 00656) has a/c rooms with color satellite TV, meeting rooms, and a pool. Rates start from around $55.
Food: You may buy inexpensive fish from Ameliana at the pescaderia just down the road from Jack's. At C. Principal C-4 in Playa Santa, La Cocha (tel. 8215522) serves gourmet Puerto Rican food and seafood. The upscale Blue Marlin Restaurant is at Av. Esperanza 59. The Brisas del Mar Bar and Restaurant is also along the same seaside boulevard as are other eateries.
We found Saba to be a wonderful, almost magical island. The contrast is vast between the rugged panoramic terrain and the small cottages and charming people of Saba. I loved meeting the people of the town of Windwardside, and those who worked at Captain's Quarters. Kathleen, at the front desk, was especially accommodating and helpful to us with our many questions and then the unexpected arrival of our >> friends who were simultaneously visiting St. Maarten.
I knew upon arriving that we had missed Rich Holm, the owner of Captain's Quarters, by just one day. Oh, well. disappointments do happen, but then so do surprises.
Upon our arrival at CQ, there appeared Rich Holm to greet us personally and show us around our room -- the "Queen's Room" which was a thrill in itself! Rich's staying to be this courteous to us was but one example of how kind and open the people of Saba are.
One of my highlights on this trip was getting to know (just a little) a woman named Ivy who ran "The Yellow House" -- a little shop down the street. We ate all our meals at Captain's Quarters, and I must say, that the Full American Breakfast that is included in the price of the room is a steal! Every morning we awoke to these fantastic breakfasts that, here in the rat race world, I never have time to fix.
My hubby, Phil, climbed to the top of Mount Scenery. It was a great accomplishment for him. Me, well, I made it up 150 very steep steps before I realized there was no way. So, I went shopping in all the little shops I could find!
Jamie's comment was very correct -- one is enough. I had about the most potent drink at the bar, a Captain's Quarters' Special, as it is called, and that was enough in one day. They are laced with Saba Spice -- something everyone should try when visiting the island.
The lace work I saw was very ornamental, but small stitching, so as not to be gaudy. We also visited a couple of artists' studios. It was amazing to find that one was a retired New Yorker!
When our friends came over on our last day, we had a wonderful time seeing the entire island (well, as much as The Road will take you to see) in a car we rented at the last minute with Kathleen's help. Saba is so majestic, and yet so peaceful with so many overgrown trees and plants everywhere you turn. I think of Saba now as the ideal place to go to write a novel (something I would love to do). The meals at Captain's Quarters (other than the great breakfasts) were great. I got French fries every day at lunch time. They were soooooo good. They were hand-cut and fried just the right amount of time. The hamburgers/cheeseburgers were great too! Phil ate fresh fish mostly, and I, of course, went for the steaks and the filet mignon. Eddie, at the bar, was the nicest person! He will be receiving some "proper" cd music from me -- as a partial joke. I was wearing a tee shirt with Billy Joel and Elton John on it and Eddie had no idea who they were. He finally guessed "The Blues Brothers?" Apparently the going thing in music there is "technorock." Anyway, we had a great time with Eddie and all the people at Captain's Quarters! It is funny, because in the beginning, I didn't know if I would like Saba, but after we left, I just found myself longing to be back there. I guess we'll have to plan another vacation!
Phil and I are back from 8 luscious nights on St. Barths.
Our villa was spectacular! It was Villa Kokomo on Pointe Milou, right across from Villa Sommet. St. Barts Properties was very helpful in all kinds of tips and information on what was nearby. The villa was a standard Caribbean style 2 bedroom/2 bath. It had a fantastic view to watch the sunrise in the mornings over the water, and we sat out on lounge chairs in the evenings trying to identify the stars and planets. The pool was great! That was my fave part of the villa! The bedroom had a/c and the living room/kitchen section did not (but was very breezy). The interior of the villa was gorgeous, as well as the woman who owns it is an interior decorator. Everything was in soft pastels. There were so many blooming flora, it was unbelievable, and then we also had butterflies flitting about everywhere we went!
Right down the street -- a very short walk -- was La Petit Boeuf, a deli/restaurant. It was a great place to walk to in the mornings for bread and in the evenings they had more deli type preparations, although Phil had a great steak there. (BTW, the "theme" of this trip, for me at least, seemed to be "beef!").
The one really fun evening we had was right after eating at Marigot Bay Club
for dinner, right on the water, and ever so delicious and romantic, we headed back La Petit Boeuf,(our place was 2 minutes away) and there at was a rock band blaring away live! Well, I HAD to stop for this, and plus, in night vision, I thought the lead singer was Jimmy Buffett, but that proved NOT to be the case! But it was so much fun to be there and sip a glass of wine and listen to this Island/French rhythm and blues band. They were really excellent and it was a great entertainment treat for us!
I think that when we go back, if we do want a villa, it will be either Kokomo or Sommet. I really loved Kokomo. The only problem with a villa, at least in speaking for myself, is that there seemed to be a little too much isolation. There was no one around, and at first this is >> very refreshing, but after about 4 days, I was talking to baby goats! When we go back, we are not sure yet if it will be the villa or if it will be Village St. Jean again.
Our last night there we ate at Le Patio, and received the warmest hugs from Gaby and Catherine Charaneau! They really give you a warm, almost "family" feeling there, and there is plenty of independence in the deluxe cottage units!
We investigated Le Petit Morne, which seemed to be an excellent deal for a hotel -- $800 for one week and that included a car and continental breakfast, plus it had a great view from Colombier.
We check out another absolutely fantastic property called Roc Flamands, which I believe Peg Walsh and St. Barths Properties also represents. The units are all in "townhouse" style, and each is completely surrounded by all glass walls, so the views are magnificent. They are very modern and each unit has its own pool and jacuzzi. A one-bedroom price for one dwelling is $2,000. Okay, let's see .
. . Restaurants and shopping. Our first night in we were so tired we made a sandwich and ate. Carl, who met us at the airport, on behalf of SBH Properties, had left cheeses, wine, water, French bread, etc. The second night we went to Marigot Bay Club and the food and the ambiance were as great as ever. This is truly a restaurant for the hungry and the romantic!
We tried out L'Orchidee down at Hotel Christopher. I had a great cut of filet mignon -- I have to say it is probably the most tender filet mignon I have ever eaten. >> The only problem was my "medium-well" came "rare," and it is really my fault for going ahead and eating it rather than sending it back. The waiter, Jackie, was very very friendly. There were only about 4 couples out there dining next to the waves crashing against the rocks. It is a truly lovely place.
For lunches, we ate, of course, at Le Select, Jo Jo Burger in L'Orient, and Chez Francine. Chez Francine was super busy due to the ship people, but the food was nonetheless as good as always. And I still love Jo Jo Burgers and Le Select's. I met Marius finally, and he is such a cordial gentleman. Dinner at Maya's was very very good. Not only was the food great, but the service was as good as last year. No surprise there, since we had the very same garcon:
Laurent Moller, who I wrote about last year. He has now cut his hair shorter "to be a more serious waiter," he says. He once again took a snapshot of the 4 of us. As I left to go to the restroom, I was told that the only celebrity there, Kevin Nealon of Saturday Night Live, got up and left. Oh, well!
La Marine was nice and it was great sitting right on the edge next to the dock. I did eat fish there, but was >> a little less than impressed with it.
The best meal for me was at Le Patio the night before we left (Thanksgiving evening). I ate the best rack of lamb I have ever eaten. I can still taste it! And everything it was served with was great. The restaurant was very busy, of course, but the service was great.
Has anyone EVER had a bad meal on St. Barths? I haven't. Some are just not as good as others.
SHOPPING: On a rainy day we went to Corossol and found one of the women who weave the straw baskets and hats. I nearly cleaned one woman out. She was very proud of her work, and if you all get any time while you are there, going to Corossol has always been a treat for me. The straw goods are very reasonable. The hats are $16.00 and a string of fish with bright colored ribbons woven through them is $8.00. A great big straw bag for the beach was $20.00. In Gustavia we found great tee shirts at Loulous Marine. We also found good stuff at the Black Swan. The best deals on everything, however, we found at Compagnies des Caraibes. There we found some great looking tee shirts for $8.00 and a real pretty light-weight dress for $20.00. Shopping in St. Jean was fun also.
We found Robert Danet's studio. For those of you who do no know of him, he is probably the premiere painter of oil paintings depicting life on St. Barths. While he was not present, the woman who was, was willing to drop prices once you said no, but in truth, we really didn't see anything we had to have. However, we then saw Jean Fabas' studio in Gustavia and went there. She had a whole slew of St. Barths scenes which were more reasonably priced than Danet's, but for which she seemed unwilling to negotiate. So, one of our greatest thrills was in buying one of her paintings. It depicts the little red topped cottages and the sea and the mountains and a sunset. It is small, but it is really beautiful and we are proud of it. All the regular shops in St. Jean were fun to shop in. I cannot remember the name of the shop where I got a great pair of shorts for $20.00.
I think the only other thing I wanted to mention about our trip was the trek to Colombier. I had read that it was no sweat, but for me it was a big sweat. We took the path down from Colombier where the overlook is. It was very steep and difficult at times to keep your balance. I finally got a hold of a makeshift walking stick. But, I will tell you that once we made it to the beach, we knew the hike had been worth it! Colombier was to me the most beautiful beach on St. Barths! The water was so clear, and there were very few sailboats in the harbor. It was just so very very beautiful! The snorkeling was great. Phil even saw a barracuda! He got lots of great shots under water. Unfortunately, something happened to my mask which caused it to pinch my nose and it hurt too much to wear it for any length of time. But, that is one beach I hope to spend more time at on our next trip. Only I might make the trip by catamaran next time!
Kate and I returned from our annual Thanksgiving trip to St. Barth.
The trip, as always was wonderful - once we got to SBH. Getting there was more of an adventure than I wanted. USAir has service to SXM on Saturdays, so I used Frequent Flyer miles to book free tickets. When I checked in Boston I discovered that US does not have an inter-line baggage agreement with Winair (WM) so I could only check my bags as far as SXM. With only 45 minutes between the US and WM flights, I knew I was going to have a problem. 45 minutes is NOT enough time to clear immigration, get bags, run over to the departure side of the airport, check in, and make the flight. We got to the Winair check-in line at the time our flight was scheduled to depart. There were about 30 people ahead of us, and the agent was handling about 1 person every 10-15 minutes. I never determined whether this blazing rate of speed was typical island-time, or the first sign of the soon-to-come work slowdowns and strike by WM employees. Rather than share the gory details, I'll just tell you that we were re-booked on the last flight of the day to SBH. We got to the gate, turned in our boarding passes, stepped outside to board the plane (due to arrive any second from SBH), and watched a Lufthansa Heavy land.
The arrival of the Lufthansa flight delayed the arrival of the WM flight, and we crossed the magic threshold - sundown! After sundown there are no more flights to SBH - our flight was canceled. We (and the other 19 people on the flight) were less than thrilled. Two hours later we were finally re-ticketed on the first flight of the day to SBH - 07:00. From there it was off to the Maho.
That part of SXM looks and sounds more like a US city than ever, but it's close to the airport and we could get a room, a meal, and a wakeup call. We checked in and called over to SBH to cancel our dinner reservation at the Marigot Bay Club.
Our dinner that night was at the Rumboat Cafe in the Maho complex. It was OK, but we really wanted to be eating at the Marigot Bay Club. Oh well... at least the rum tasted the same...
Day Two in our continuing journey to SBH started with our second 04:30 wakeup call in two days (actually an hour earlier due to being on Atlantic time). Off to the airport, checked in with WM, talked my way around the departure tax, cleared security, and off to the waiting area. The plane shows up and they tell me I'm not on that flight, but the next one. Funny, that's not what my ticket says. Wait 45 minutes for the next flight - which goes to SBH by way of Saba.
We hadn't been to Saba before, but I knew that the runway (all 1307 feet of it) was even more 'interesting' than SBH's 2100-foot strip. The approach to Saba (the angle of approach was perhaps copied from German dive bombers) and the landing make the approach to SBH and the landing there look tame. The WM pilots still only used half the strip. We unloaded a dive group, left for SBH, and finally got there at about 09:00.
My bags were missing (due in on the 10:30), my rental car was waiting, and my villa keys were waiting. Paradise at last!
Okay, so here are some of the things that are changing:
The cruise ships. They are horrible. At one point we had 3 of them in harbor letting out all of those people on an island that just does not possess the infrastructure to support this. There is a young man who has been commissioned by the government there to do a study through next spring, regarding the problems. He is located right next door to the tourist office.
Due to the sudden invasions, the traffic was much heavier and there were a lot of lost people around. There needs to be a compromise (at best) with this, or I fear the island will be badly damaged. We did meet some cruise ship people right up at the Colombier lookout, and they, of course, were lost. They had rented a car, and were so very very polite. They were from Orlando, and they said they had no idea that St. Barths was so panoramic and beautiful. He said "I feel as if I'm intruding on something." At least he showed an appreciation for the island as it should be. The second change is construction going on in various parts of the island -- primarily in St. Jean and Pointe Milou. I know that every morning I would wake to the sound of those big trucks rolling by us. They are building a whole hillside of villas, which are currently offered for sale before they are built. Yuck.
The other change -- more minor, yet it left me feeling a little "irritated" is the new issue of "Tropical St. Barths" magazine, which just came out with its new edition. While the "magazine" is FREE, all U.S. citizens have to pay $8.00 for "postage" in order to get one by mail. So, my advice would be to get one by mail.
The local "newspaper" which they call a "magazine," which is called "St. Barths Magazine" has lots of articles about lots of changes in ownership/management of restaurants, as well as an article regarding the problem of the cruise ships. Many of you are familiar with L'Hibiscus. It is now called "Le Clocher." Pasta Paradise is now called "Paradiso." There are new managers of Le Castelets. We went up there and looked around. The menu looked great, but we definitely got the "snob" feeling there. But, from their driveway, I was able to take pictures of Mikhail Baryshkinov's villa just below!
Restaurants: We ate at many old favorites, a few new (for us) places, and a few places we hadn't tried in years. (Keep in mind that it is not customary to serve water with meals. You should order a bottle of water as a matter of course. Be prepared to answer the question 'flat/still water?', 'Gas/No gas?', 'bubbles/no bubbles? - it's phrased in several ways!)
Here's a list of restaurants we visited:
As always, dinner on our first and last nights on the island were at the Marigot Bay Club. With all of the wonderful restaurants on SBH, the fact that we at the Marigot Bay Club twice during the week should tell you something. The location on the beach in Marigot, is wonderful. The waves rolling in on the beach make a perfect accompaniment to dinner, Michel Ledee's staff always takes good care of us, and we love the food. Michel's Lobster Bisque is the best I've ever had. My wife swears by the Fisherman's Platter - nothing fried here, just fresh fish, shrimp, and scallop on a bed of two sauces. Try one of Michel's Bailey's Banana Coladas too! Marigot Bay Club is now open for lunch every day except Monday. It felt odd to be there in the day time, but we're glad we did. Michel's wife Therese has opened a gallery across from the restaurant. We went there looking for island Christmas Cards (saw them referenced in the local paper) and ended up buying a few other things too. There are a number of nice small prints that we liked, plus many larger pieces. Visit the gallery before lunch, then the restaurant for lunch. It worked out well for us!
The Wall House - I've stayed away from it for years, after having met the Waiter From Hell (actually Rye, NY) there. It was one of the few places open for lunch on Sunday, so we gave it a try. I had grilled Red Snapper with a Nantaise Butter sauce, my wife had grilled Shrimp with a Saffron Cream sauce. Both were great, as was the service - enough so that we put the Wall House on our list of possible Thanksgiving Dinner places. We ended up going back there for T'giving dinner, which was fitting - Aux Trois Gourmands, the former restaurant at that site, was the location of our first Thanksgiving dinner on SBH ten years earlier. (In the intervening years we've had a catered Turkey dinner at the villa.) To our surprise they had an unadvertised Turkey Dinner special. I also especially liked an appetizer on the menu, Aumoniere (sp?), or "Beggar's Bag". Check it out...
La Repaire along the quay in Gustavia - We tried this place for breakfast one morning when we were in town early. (We wanted to get our shopping done before the 4 cruise ships started unloading passengers. Great place to sit and watch people (especially those off of the ships) and boats. Good coffee if you like French coffee. They offer an American breakfast, with a tendency to barelycooked fried eggs. I can't figure out how to order 'eggs over' in French, so I STRONGLY suggest ordering your eggs Scrambled. (They're more likely to be cooked.) L'Escale - On the harbor in Gustavia - An old favorite. We've been eating here for years for a change from French cooking and seafood. Wood-oven pizza, pasta, and veal. A great place for wallet-relief if you stick to the pizza and don't order too much alcohol. My wife likes the melon and prosciutto (no wallet relief there!). I like the veal.
Le Select/Cheeseburger In Paradise - In Gustavia. Great place for a burger, people watching and a cold beer. The 'pommes frites' are great too! They cook them twice, the way all French fries should be cooked. Everybody (locals, tourists, yachties) passes through/by Le Select sooner or later. It's an island institution. (Before anyone asks, yes we did spend some time with Marius. Several hours over the course of the week. He's in good health, but being run ragged with receptions and cocktail parties to welcome groups from Sweden, the island marathon, the French Navy, and a host of other things.)
Maya's - On the beach in Public. My other favorite beachfront restaurant. We had a great dinner, but spent so much time talking that I can't remember what I had for dinner... But I do remember the passion fruit that they add to their Planter's Punch!
La Fregate - Hotel Baie Des Flamandes on Flamands beach. We hadn't eaten here in years. New chef in his second year. I had a beef Mille Feuille (thinly sliced beef, some sort of mushroom mixture between the slices, and reassembled). Quite good. My wife thought that her grilled shrimp with a soy/orange sauce was the best lunch she had all week. I also liked the large Planter's Punch.
Eddie's Ghetto - Gustavia. Not so easy to find, but worth the effort. I had lentil salad and grilled fish. Can't remember what my wife had, but, as usual, she loved it. One of these trips I'm going to have to try the ribs. Eddie has a new chef this year. He's opening a new place across the street from Sapotillier. It's still under construction, waiting on furniture from Indonesia. Eddie has yet to decide on the name for the new place. He was projecting December 20 as a possible opening date.
La Gloriette - On the beach in Grand Cul de Sac - Creole cooking. Great Accra (codfish fritters), Crab Farcie (stuffed crab), and Christophine Farcie (stuffed local squash). I could eat well on just appetizers here. I had a Antillean fish soup for lunch. Good stuff! Albert is still bottling his own special cordial. I don't know what's in it, but it does leave you with a pleasant glow!
New Born - Anse des Cayes near the Hotel Manapany. A new restaurant for us. Fresh seafood. Live lobsters in an outdoor tank. (Live nurse sharks too!) A huge aquarium fills one wall of the restaurant from floor to ceiling, with lobsters, sharks, and various tropical fish. The smoked fish appetizer is worth a try.
La Rotisserie - Villa Creole, St. Jean - Good cheap lunch. A roast chicken and Dauphinois potatoes for $20. Add some bread and 3/4 bottle of wine that we already had at home, and we were all set for a delicious lunch poolside at the villa. Leftover chicken made a nice snack to go with sunset cocktails the next afternoon.
That's about it for restaurants. A few random thoughts: Les Castelets is again under new management. I wrote the place off as being too full of itself years ago. My opinion hasn't changed. Pasta Paradise has changed it's name to Paradiso. Less emphasis on the pasta. L'Hibiscus is open under new management (daughter of the Eden Roc guy - can't remember her name) and a new name. La Clocher or something close to that. We visited for cocktails, but didn't have a chance to try the dinner menu. There's a new Magic restaurant by La Marine/L'Escale that features a magic floor show with dinner. I believe the price was FF120+dinner.
Construction as a whole seemed way down in comparison to some recent years. The hotel construction next to Chez Francine on Baie de St. Jean (the former Tom Beach Hotel) is back in gear. (It was halted for over a year when the financing was pulled.) According to the signs there will be 12 luxury rooms. The other construction project that comes to mind is the new airline counter/departure lounge at the airport. It looks like it should be open soon. Le Match (across from the airport) is still my favorite supermarket. They have the best seafood section that I've seen on the island. AMC (Gustavia) is my second choice. The small market near the airport Shell station is a lifesaver on Sundays when everything else is closed.
Speaking of the airport Shell station, the 24-hour credit- card pump now has instructions in English taped to it.
Avis is doing a walk-around check noting all damage at the time you rent and at the time you return the car. They have also instituted a $10 charge if you remove the soft-top and fail to replace it.
The Black Swan (t-shirts) at Villa Creole in St. Jean has moved from the corner where it was hidden to the front row of stores. (Near La Rotisserie)
Lou Lou's marine is once again stocking a limited number of Nasty Frog shirts. (One of my favorites!) Lou Lou is also carrying even more t-shirts than before. Remember when it really was a Marine store?
The 'Sorry No Telephone' line of shirts is back. They have a store at the opposite end of the building from Lou Lou's. They now have Golf shirts in addition to t-shirts.
Marigot Bay Club is still out of XL shirts. According to Michel, his supplier
is climbing Mount Everest. Too bad. At $20 it was the best golf shirt price on the island.
The New York group that owns the Rockefeller property at Columbier is selling out to a French group. Marius says "We're in real trouble now." Other people talk about a single buyer picking it up for $25 million. Time will tell.
Cruise ships are a hot topic of discu
Jamaica: T-Water Beach Hotel they're a problem than in the past. There were 5 ships in on the Saturday I was supposed to arrive in SBH, and as many as 4 (plus a French Navy ship docked in Public) on other days. Several days there was only a single Windjammer in port. One quote in the local paper was that it takes 400 cruise ship passengers to contribute as much to the local economy as a single villa renter. Some locals think that it was a mistake to lower the port tax on cruise ship passengers. Cruise ships, day trippers, and airport passengers all pay a FF20 tax. When the port tax was higher fewer ships visited.
Flamands Beach is in great shape compared to a few years ago. We spent an early morning there with a bottle of champagne, catching some sun, taking a refreshing swim, and watching a model-shoot a short ways up the beach. Makes me want to head right back...