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Carribean Travel Roundup
Paul Graveline, Editor
Edition 51
January
1, 1995
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Back to Index January 1995
Bahamas: Club Med Columbus Isle by Randy Wood
This little trip report is about our vacation at Club Med, Columbus Isle from 10/29 to 11/5, 1994. Now your first thought might be "Who is that man behind the keyboard?" so here's the scoop: I'm 30, my wife is 28, and we have been to Maui twice, the Club Meds in Cancun and Martinique, and last year we went to Sandals Negril. I provide that information so that you can calibrate yourself to our experiences and vacation tastes (as you can tell we're fans of the allinclusive vacation). Also, we've always traveled with another couple and this trip was no exception. I'm going to try not to reiterate information that is in the Club Med brochure or a travel book (like what sports are available, how big the island is etc.) because, well, you can get that out of a book. So, without further delay....
Getting there is probably real easy if you live on the East Coast. Since we live in the San Francisco Bay Area and have a 9 month old daughter, it was a little bit more complicated: Thursday night we flew from Oakland to Phoenix (where both sets of grandparents live and where our daughter was for the week); Friday was Phoenix to Tampa (the closest I could get to Miami on frequent flyer miles); Saturday was Tampa to Miami to catch the Club Med charter and finally on to San Salvador. Whew! Club Med had both Saturday and Sunday charter departures that were nonstop flights lasting about 2 hours, using American Eagle ATR's. If you are not on the charter you will have to go through Nassau.
The airport is about a 2 minute drive from the Club (the Club Med brochure said 5 minutes, they lied) and is simply a landing strip that crosses one of the few roads on the island. Most pilots will execute a left hand pattern so if you are on the left side of the plane you'll get a great aerial view of the club coming in, as well as a visual of how the island is as flat as a pancake. Customs is a breeze since you are the only plane there, but they did ask if you were carrying alcohol or cigarettes (we had neither, so I'm not sure what the rules are). Upon arrival the standard "G.O. clapping gauntlet" was there to greet us, a nice touch.
The club is just about the only thing on the island, so if you are into excursions and nightlife away from the club this one isn't for you. There are 600 people that live on the island and 400 work at Club Med (we heard slightly different numbers all week, but you get the picture). Every room has an ocean view and they are appointed quite nicely. The tallest thing in the village is 2 stories high.
I usually try to give tips on where the best rooms are but this one is tough they all are pretty good (a travel agent that stayed in 417 right above us said that she was given the best room in the village, but the bottom line is just about any room will do). If you are really into the scuba thing, you'll probably want to be close to the Sea Center - that's where the scuba docks are, the 2 specialty restaurants, and it's close to the sailing shack. It's about a 5 minute walk from the main dining room and pool area.
There is the controversial TV and phone in the room that generated some discussions among the Club Med veterans at dinner but the general consensus was "if you don't want to watch the TV, don't turn it on" (we didn't, except to the channel that has the day's activities). On the other hand, we do like the phone as it made is easy to check on our daughter as well as call our friends in one of the other rooms. Also, you can make reservations at one of the specialty restaurants by phone instead of having to go to the hostess desk like the other clubs - just be sure to make the reservations early because the specialty restaurants can fill up fast.
Speaking of restaurants, the food was standard Club Med. Since this is touted to be a more "upscale" club we were expecting better food but in our opinion it wasn't that much different from Cancun or Martinique. Don't get me wrong, that's still an 8 or so on a scale of 1 to 10. Instead of the usual tables of 8, all 3 restaurants had tables of 2, 4, 6 or 8. Also, all 3 restaurants are indoors and had smoking/non smoking sections. Our favorite was the Italian restaurant. The wine and beer that come "standard" with lunch and dinner were very drinkable. In terms of attire, my recommendation is wear what you want walking shorts, a button down print shirt, and a pair of Reef Brazils did the trick for me, and my wife wore romper type outfits. There were people that dressed up, dressed down, sexy, sleazy, elegant - you name it. It's your vacation.
Each week can be different, but when we were there it was about 50/50 American /European. Of course there were people from all over (Canada, Argentina etc.) as well. To our surprise there were about a half dozen or so families, even though there is nothing special for kids to do there. There are mostly couples and groups of couples, and in general it is a "quieter" and "more mature" crowd than Cancun or Martinique. Many honeymooners too. A lot of the hard core divers go to bed before the show. Now I'm not saying it's boring by any means, and you're almost guaranteed to find people that you will enjoy relaxing with or partying with (or both!) depending on your tastes; it's just that you won't find the nonstop party and single atmosphere that you might at some of the other clubs. We closed the disco down at midnight one night.
The beach is great. Fine white sand, warm blue water, nice lounge chairs and beach umbrellas. The towels are big. Get your stuff out there early if you want an umbrella. There are showers and feet washers at all the bridges to the beach (you have to go over a bridge to the beach to protect the local flora) so you shouldn't track too much sand in your room. I'd say 75% of the women were top free, with bathing suits ranging from very tiny thongs to big dog suits with the little skirt around them. If you want to you can walk down past the property line for some nude sunbathing, but it is not common or prevalent. A lot of people were taking strolls down to the end of the beach and back (about a 45 minute walk) so that might have discouraged some people who wanted to get rid of all their tan lines. The waves ranged from none to little 1 footers.
Our day usually consisted of getting up about 8:30 am, off to breakfast (with a stop to pick up our friends and exchange towels at one of the laundry facilities on the way), and we were on the beach by about 10. Then it was mostly catching rays with some occasional windsurf, hobie cat, or laser action until lunch at around 1:00. Then back to the beach until about 5 (occasional wind sports again, maybe a walk, but no water-skiing since they shut it down for the winter). Then take a nap and shower, meet up with our friends at about 6:30 for some drinks in the main bar. Club Med drinks are not cheap; a pina colada will run you about $5.00 (6 yellow beads). Then dinner at about 8:00, hang out until the show at 10:00, then after the show we would either participate in the activity that they had or go back to the bar for a nightcap. Rough life, huh. Here's some other highlights and tidbits of info, in no particular order:
The chief wasn't there that week - there was an all chiefs meeting in Morocco, so Chris the chief of sports was in charge. Also, it was transition month, so a lot of the G.O.s had only been there 2, 3 weeks and they were all still getting to know one another. Kind of fun to watch.
Monday we entered the team kayak race and came in second to last. That night was Halloween and the GO's put together an AWESOME haunted house.
Wednesday was the picnic. We went snorkeling at a shipwreck. This picnic was NOT like the other 2 we had been on in Cancun and Martinique, although the G.O.'s said that those have been toned down as well. The BBQ'd ribs were great. That night we went to a murder mystery dinner with Shannon, the Aerobics instructor, at the Italian restaurant. That same night, my friend and I did the sports bike demonstration and I crashed trying to pop a wheelie. That was also cocktail night where they had a huge table set out by the pool with all kinds of drinks for the taking, but I paid for it with mush head disease the next morning.
Thursday evening we went on a 1 hr sunset cruise on one of the dive boats, went on a tour of the decompression chamber, and after the show played street hockey with helmets, gloves, cheerleaders, announcers, bench clearing fights - the whole bit. Friday we went on a bike ride into town. That night we got medals at the sports awards for being the craziest bike riders in the village (I think my crash had something to do with it).
Here's bonus tip #1: my packing list. It's worked pretty well for the past 3 all inclusives, maybe it can help you.
aqua socks (for windsurfing or rocky beaches), aspirin, baby oil (for backrubs, of course!), band aids, a can a bug repellent, camera with extra battery, fanny pack, film, hats, sport bottle to take beer down to the beach, money (but not too much, hey, this is an all inclusive - there' always the plastic for big purchases), passports, q-tips (good for getting sand out of your ears), sunglasses, sunscreen (estimate how much you will need, then add 2 bottles), tickets, vitamin C, watch, and zip lock bags (for protecting your camera on boats).
Here's bonus tip #2: it took me 3 Club Meds but I finally got 'em - knee, clap, miss and miss again, hug hug, drink drink, headache, chowbella, yo, Tahiti, kiss, little rabbits, big rabbits, sleep, coffee, TV, Indians, Cowboys, ski (or at least that's really really close). If you have no idea what this babble is go to the show.
Well, that's it.
Barbados: Hints By Teresa Breininger
There are many things to do in Barbados. I suggest renting a moke and touring on your own. Remember that you drive on the left and you have to be careful. The roads are narrow but speed limit is only 30 mph???
Drive up the west coast to the Animal Flower Cave. It looks right out to the sea. Very pretty. Right near this area is Farley Hill Park where there are great views of the north east coast and the Atlantic. Breathtaking! Continue around the north coast to the East Coast. You will come to Andromeda Gardens, and then Bathsheba and the Atlantis Hotel which is a nice place to stop for lunch. It is a real Bajan treat. If you are into picnic lunches instead, follow the signs just south of Bathsheba for Bath Recreational Park. This is a nice little area that has picnic tables and a nice beach with calm water. A delightful place. Parking area across the road. Further down the east coast stop to see the rugged coastline and then on to Sam Lord's Castle ($2.00 admission) This is now a resort run by Marriott. The property is very pretty and the Castle is magnificent. There are some shops and you can walk around.
Next continue down the road for a few minutes and you will come to Crane Beach Hotel. Stop in and see the scenery. If you didn't have lunch at Atlantis, this is another favorite. However, be prepared for lots of tourists. Next you can go along the road for a while and you will pass the airport. You will then be on the South Coast where there are a number of secluded spots for a picnic or just a swim to cool off.
There are lots of little hotels and guest houses here. These are usually the lower priced accommodations. Some are very nice and they don't mind if you stop in and look around. In St. Michael you will pass the Garrison Savannah and come to the Barbados Museum. This is an interesting place for taking in some history. Gun Hill is near by which is now the Government House and then you can go into Bridgetown.
By this time the cruise ship passengers are all tucked back in their little staterooms showering for dinner and whatnot and Bridgetown is yours. Shopping is not the greatest, however there are some good buys (not cameras) and some island made things at the Best of Barbados shops. Trafalgar square is older than the one in England and you will be glad to stop for a drink at the Waterfront Cafe (good rum punches). While at the Waterfront Cafe, make a reservation for dinner on Thursday night when a Dixie Land Band entertains. Food and drinks are reasonable and it is really a fun night. By the way, there is good parking at the lots and it is inexpensive in Bridgetown. Then get back in your moke and head up the coast.
There are also some other attractions. In the middle of the island is Harrisons Cave, where you go underground in a tram and see the caves. Very interesting but nothing as grand as Luray Caverns in Virginia. Some of the Plantation Houses are beautiful and worth the tour.
There are some very nice hotels in Barbados in the expensive, moderate and budget range. I will try to describe some them.
1. The Elegant Resorts of Barbados: These are a group of 9 hotels that have exchange dining privileges. Any of them are good choices.
Sandy Lane: The ultimate in luxury. Newly renovated with a golf course and beautiful beach. Very expensive and a must if you want to rub elbows with the rich and famous.
Coral Reef: An intimate resort with 75 rooms in cottages scattered among 12 beautiful acres. A very private place. Each room has a refrigerator and its own private terrace or patio. Family owned and managed. Very good restaurant and very nice personal atmosphere.
Sandpiper: Sister resort of the Coral Reef. Most units have kitchens. On a nice beach with a good restaurant. Very informal. Settler's Beach: Next to Sandpiper. Very nice 2 bedroom units with kitchen. Good restaurant.
Glitter Bay: This is a beautiful resort with 1 and 2 bedroom condos. Very nice beach and good service.
Royal Pavillion: A beautiful resort with a beach shared with Glitter Bay, its sister resort. Very nice restaurant with good service.
Cobbler's Cove: A small intimate resort north on the west coast. Nice beach that you share with Claudette Colbert. Excellent restaurant and very nice personal service. Very private.
Treasure Beach: Another small resort with a nice touch and good service. An outstanding restaurant.
2. St. James Beach Hotels.
Tamarind Cove: Newly renovated with a nice beach, 3 pools and good service. The restaurant is good here serving good food at reasonable prices. Also on premises is Neptunes Seafood restaurant that gives one the feeling of dining under water.
Coconut Creek: Another nice place. Only 35 rooms and a small beach. Good service and nice restaurant.
Colony Club: Next door to Coral Reef. Nice property and shares beach with Coral Reef.
3. There are some other nice hotels along the beach on the west coast:
Discovery Bay: Nice place with prices in the moderate to expensive range. Good restaurant and very nice beach. Inn on the Beach: 1 and 2 bedroom apts. on a nice stretch of the beach. Moderate prices.
Buccaneer Bay: Next to Tamarind Cove. Nice beach. Don't know much else about it.
All Inclusives:
Pineapple Beach Club: The former Divi St. James. Nicely renovated. Most rooms are suites but only the bedroom portion has A/C. No beach to speak of in front of the hotel. You cannot swim here due to the coral. Good beach down at Sandy Lane. About 200 yards down the beach.
Restaurants: These are some of my favorites:(Most need reservations and do not allow shorts for dinner.) Slacks and a sport shirt for men is fine (no tie) and a nice summer dress for the ladies or a nice pair of slacks. Dress is elegantly casual for these places.
There are a few hotels whose restaurants I recommend: Coral Reef Club (excellent food)
Cobblers Cove (outstanding)
Treasure Beach (outstanding)
Sandpiper (good choice)
Tamarind Cove. (good choice and table d'hote is reasonable)
Coconut Creek (same as Tamarind Cove)
There are many more. However, I keep going back to my favorites.
Another treat is the Waterfront Cafe in Bridgetown. There is a Dixieland Band on Thursday nights and you are sure to have a good time. Food and drinks are moderate and good. Not gourmet, but substantial--mostly seafood. Be sure to make a reservation. If you don't like it too loud, ask for an outside table. Also a good place for lunch when shopping in Bridgetown.
The Barbados Museum has a dinner show called "1627 And All That" I have never seen it, but mean to do so. I have heard that it is very good and the meal is worth the money.
The Bagatelle Great House supposedly has a very nice menu but is on the expensive side. Again, I have not tried this place, but hear good reports about it.
Things to do:
If you like watersports, most of the hotels offer complimentary water sports packages. There are a few good diving places. The one I know best (I am not a diver) is Les Wotten up at the Coral Reef Club. He has been an island resident for a long time and has a wealth of knowledge about the island as well as diving and good snorkeling spots. Just heard recently that he turned over the business to Andrew Roulet. Les has retired but does do a few dives a week. The place is now called "Shades of Blue". For me I snorkel and go in glass bottom boats. That's my speed. For the not too faint hearted, a trip on the Jolly Roger or the Bajan Queen will give you a day of fun and watersports, with all you can drink and a buffet lunch. They also have dinner cruises. There is the Atlantis submarine for those not into diving. Make a reservation ahead of time. I understand there are long waits. There are some pottery places one called Earthworks and another on Chalky Mount. Get some nice things there.
For those that would like a boat ride, but the Jolly Roger is a little too much for them, there are some nice catamarans that sail from Bridgetown and have lunch and snorkeling and are for the more sedate and retiring. They are called The Tiami, The Irish Mist and there is another, but cannot remember the name. Then again you can always just sit on the beach and soak up the sun. This is my favorite activity. Have fun.
There are a few bus tours that take you on an all day tour with lunch at either the Atlantis Hotel or Crane Beach and complimentary drinks. They take in all the sights for one fee. If you fear driving on the left side of the road, this may be for you.
Bonaire: Sorobon Beach Resort by Mike Sullivan
I was able to enjoy a short stay at the Sorobon Beach Resort during a SCUBA diving trip to the island of Bonaire in late November, 1994. After spending five days at the Divi Flamingo Beach Hotel on the west side of the island for the diving, I transferred to Sorobon for my last two days on the island. Sorobon offered me a chance to get some sun and beach time in and decompress properly from all the diving before making the flight home.
The Sorobon resort is located on the nearly-deserted southeast side of the tiny desert island of Bonaire. From the Flamingo Airport, where all Bonaire visitors arrive, Sorobon is about a 10-minute, 9-km drive across a two-lane paved road through the desert. You turn left out of the airport road and left again at the Sorobon sign soon after and head east. After passing through a small residential area, you are in open desert for much of the way until you see a giant wind turbine in the distance. The turbine generates some 25,000 kW of electric power for the few people on that side of the island and it faces directly into the prevailing easterly winds.
At the turbine station, the road branches into a T-intersection with another Sorobon sign pointing you to the left. The narrow road winds about 1000 yards to the north and you have arrived at Sorobon. The large 2-story residence of the owners is the first building approaching visitors will see, and then the complex of one-story chalets appear behind the high wooden privacy fence that surrounds the property. A large sign advises visitors of the clothing-optional beach on Sorobon property and that day visitors are welcome. Parking is across the road a few steps from the entrance. Guests and visitors enter the grounds through the large, unlocked wooden door just outside the office window.
All the diving and resort developments on Bonaire are on the leeward west side of the island, leaving Sorobon virtually secluded on the large, shallow and breezy Lac Bay on the east side. Since the development and popularization of the sport of windsurfing, Lac Bay has suddenly become one of the world's top windsurfing destinations, and two small windsurfing rental shops are located directly adjacent to Sorobon's property to the north. In fact, Sorobon's long wooden pier extends about 150 feet out into Lac Bay, in clear view of the windsurfers and vice versa. Windsurfers can spend hours each day skimming the calm, shallow, warm waters of Lac Bay with no danger: the constant onshore winds prevent them from being carried out to sea, and the absence of other water traffic (jet-skiers, water-skiers, powercraft) let them enjoy the several square miles of Lac Bay.
I called Sorobon early in the week to confirm my reservation and spoke with Yvonne, one of the two young ladies who manage the resort on a daily basis. Finding everything in order, she asked if I might like to attend their weekly barbecue dinner on Wednesday night. Thinking it might be a good way to meet some of the other guests and get a feel for the atmosphere of the resort, I decided to attend and I joined about a dozen other guests Wednesday night at 7:30.
The BBQ was held in the small dining and cocktail area near the Sorobon office at the front of the property. The area has seating for about 20 guests at varnished hardwood table groups along with a few cocktail tables under roof but open-air near the small kitchen. Across the walkway are patio tables and umbrellas for more guests. I introduced myself to another couple, who were some of the only Americans at the resort during my stay, and we were soon joined by three other folks to make a table of six. Everyone chose to wear clothes for the BBQ, although a few folks decided to dress quite briefly and enjoy the warm breezes of the late November evening.
Later that week, I returned for my stay and checked in with Yvonne at the front desk. Check-in at Sorobon is quick, and Yvonne showed me to my "house" (chalet), Number 10, just around the corner from the front office and restaurant. One thing that makes Sorobon so different is that guests do not have keys to their chalets...the reason is quite simple: there are no locks on the doors. Your chalet is secured by a sliding glass door without a lock if you wish, but most folks simply close the screen door and secure it closed with a little elastic band that snaps over a knob from the inside. When you leave your chalet, you just close your screen door and slide a little rock up against the bottom of the door to keep it closed. No one seems to worry about any of this, and in fact it does add a bit to the Naturist experience of Sorobon in that you can escape the world of keys and locked doors for a few days. Likewise, the door to the resort itself is not locked. Guests enter and leave the high-fenced resort property through a solid wooden gate that opens from either side without keys.
The Sorobon property is on about five acres of scrubby desert land (as most of Bonaire is), out of which have been cut sandy pathways between the chalets and buildings and a beachfront area. I think there are a total of ten chalets (or houses, as the management calls them) on the grounds, each one containing two units. Like the older chalets at Club Orient in St. Martin, they are of sturdy and simple pre-fab pine construction. All of the chalets at Sorobon were remodeled two years ago and are quite comfortable for the Naturist guest. Sorobon has been in existence for nearly 10 years, and one can quickly realize that it was one of the only, if not *the only*, development on this side of the island at the time. For this reason, it had to be self-sufficient and so Sorobon generates their own electric power from a diesel generator; they purify their own water; and they store their own LP fuel for gas cooking and water heating. Four rental cars are available at a reasonable charge for Sorobon guests who want to run into town for shopping, dining or diving.
The chalet I stayed in was Number 10, just twenty steps around the corner from the front office, restaurant and bar area and no more than 50 yards from the water. There is a large front porch area with two upholstered outdoor lounge chairs, a simple wooden cocktail table, a clothesline strung for hanging things up to dry, and a freshwater rinse faucet that is used to rinse the sand from your feet before entering the chalet.
The chalet has a new linoleum floor surface throughout and barefooted traction is quite good. The front door opens onto the large dining and living area, and to one side of the door is a chest of drawers with a table lamp on top. The living area has a large upholstered wooden couch and cushioned pillows and a matching upholstered chair, both placed near a large wooden coffee table. A floor lamp is at one end of the couch, and a table lamp sits atop an end table in the corner of the room. Above the couch is a shelf with an oscillating table fan, which can be moved to several other places in the unit if needed. The living area is illuminated during the day by light from the double-wide glass door and a large window on the side wall.
Just inside the door is the dining table with four sturdy padded wooden chairs, illuminated by a hanging lamp centered overhead. In the hallway leading away from the living and dining area is the kitchenette. The kitchenette is equipped with a single-bowl stainless steel sink and faucet; an integrated stainless steel patterned countertop and backsplash; a 6 cu.ft. mini-fridge and freezer, atop which sits a four-burner LP gas range with integrated white porcelain cover. The range is lit the old-fashioned way: a full box of wooden strike safety matches are provided. In addition, full flatware and dinner service for four is provided, along with a nice set of cooking pots and pans and stainless steel utensils, a dish drainer, dish towels and dish soap.
The bathroom features a flush toilet, modern glassed-in fiberglass shower unit, a wash sink, mirrors and shelving. The bedroom has two table lamps atop night tables on either side of a queen-size bed, with a coat rod and shelving against the opposite wall. A three-speed Hunter ceiling fan keeps the room air circulating, yet I found it unnecessary for sleeping and left it turned off.
The only amenity Sorobon's units lack that some visitors may wish for is running hot water. The bathroom sink, shower and kitchen sink faucets all deliver water via a single tap handle, and the water comes out at whatever temperature the water happens to be a that moment: cool in the mornings and late evenings, warm at mid-day, and downright hot in the afternoon. The water temperature is fine for most uses, including dish washing, but because there is no way to mix cold water with the hot water in your shower, warm showers are difficult to get in your unit. Sorobon provides two shower stalls with a demandpoint gas water heater and hot/cold mixing taps just behind the chalet grouping, so guests who wish a hot shower may have one at anytime. Since the resort is totally clothing-optional, there is no bother with having to bring a robe or cover-up with you to and from the shower, and there are few pleasures in life finer than taking a nice hot shower nude in the brilliant sunshine of the Caribbean.
The central feature of Sorobon is, of course, the beach, which is Bonaire's only clothing-optional beach. Bonaire's tourism literature promotes Sorobon as a family-oriented beach resort that offers guests the luxury of getting an allover tan. It is listed on every map and guide to the island I saw, right along with the larger dive resorts and hotels on the commercial side of the island. Since Bonaire is a Dutch island, they receive direct DC-10 and 747 service from Amsterdam on KLM, bringing thousands of Dutch, German and other European visitors to the island every year. During my stay, many of the other guests were Europeans, primarily German and Dutch, including several families with young children.
The beach at Sorobon is neither large, long or deep. Sculpted out of an arc of sand between two rock jetties, it is protected by a man-made breakwater about 200 feet into the bay that keeps the waves down to gentle lapping on the sand. Since the beach is part of Lac Bay, it has a depth no greater than about 4 feet until nearly a mile offshore. You can literally walk on the sandy bottom nearly a mile out into the bay without ever getting your shoulders wet before hitting the drop-off into deep blue.
Sorobon has two wooden rafts at anchor in the swimming area, the first about 100 yards offshore and the second probably a half-mile from the beach. The rafts make a good sunning or resting spot for snorkelers or waders as they make their way to or from the reefs far out into the bay. Snorkeling is not very good at Sorobon. There isn't much to see in the bay, just white sand and occasional sea grass, with few fish and no other marine life to speak of. The reefs are so far out into the bay that most snorkelers would be tired from the long, shallow swim out against the waves. No matter: Bonaire features the Caribbean's best diving at dozens of sites all along the western side of the island and divers can have a great dive right from their car parked along shore. Sorobon does have a Zodiac motor launch that guests may use to power out to the second raft, where they can tie up and begin their reef snorkeling from there.
The beach area at Sorobon is enclosed at one end by the pier which extends about 150 feet into the bay, and at the other end by a rock jetty arcing around the swimming area. The wooden pier ends with a set of steps into the water, although the depth is only about four feet. Most folks use the pier simply as a spot to sun, watch the windsurfers, or stargaze at night. Snorkelers can put out from the pier to avoid having to try to swim through the 2- to 3-foot depth of the near-beach waters.
Along Sorobon's beach are about a half-dozen thatched windbreak huts, with one palm branch thatched wall giving protection from the constant east winds and a thatched roof offering the only shade on the beach. Most guests select a windbreak early in the day and set up their lounge chairs, snack tables and towels for the day, and everyone respects the privacy of one another. With 20 or more feet separating each hut, and the tranquil waves lapping at the shore a few feet away, the quiet and peacefulness of a Caribbean desert island becomes a reality. Groups of guests can congregate at a windbreak and spend the whole day together enjoying the sun and water of Lac Bay.
Guests are no more than 100 yards from their chalet when at the water's edge, which makes running back to your unit to grab a cold drink quick and easy. An outdoor freshwater rinse shower stand is at the center of the circle of chalets so that guests may rinse off the salt and sand on their way back to their chalet.
The beach at Sorobon is really suitable for just one thing: sunning. Swimming is difficult in the very shallow waters, and there are no jet-ski, water-ski or SCUBA outlets on Lac Bay (yet!). Fortunately, since Sorobon's beach faces east, there is plenty of sun to be had. During my stay in late November, sunrise came at about 7:00 AM and the brilliant sun continued to cover the beach area until late afternoon. By about 6:30 in the evening, the last of the long shadows would finally hit the beach, but most of the Sorobon sunbathers stayed on, enjoying the warm breezes and sunset with cocktails and snacks by the water's edge.
Sorobon is a resort perfect for those people who want to get away from EVERYTHING. There are no telephones in the guest units; there is no television anywhere in the resort; there are only two FM radio stations on the island; and there are absolutely *no* scheduled activities at the resort (aside from the weekly BBQ mentioned above). Soft music is played at cocktail time in the bar and lounge area, and there is a multi-lingual lending library of paperback books for guests to read during their stay. Guests are left to relax completely, with little to remind them of the world outside the resort. Even compared to the low-key atmosphere of Club Orient, Sorobon is another several orders of magnitude down as far as guest diversions are concerned.
I totally enjoyed my stay at Sorobon and would certainly return if visiting Bonaire again in the future. The management is very friendly and treat you as a member of the family from the moment you arrive and make it a point to know your name. Even the three dogs who romp through the property and sleep all day on the beach are friendly. Guests visiting Sorobon will be treated to a chance to completely relax, enjoy the warm Caribbean sun and water as Nature intended, and visit with their fellow guests from around the world in an intimate, tropical environment.
Bonaire's tourism department promotes the island with the three-word slogan, "Unspoiled. Unhurried. Unforgettable." Sorobon management expands on that with the addition of one word: "Unspoiled. Unhurried. Unclothed. Unforgettable." Their unique resort offers the Naturist vacationer a totally clothing-optional experience with absolutely nothing preventing their relaxation all day, every day if they like.
I estimate that about three days of Sorobon would be plenty for me, although I suppose I could stay at Club Orient forever. There is just quite a bit less to occupy oneself with at Sorobon than I'd like for a longer stay. Club Orient offers more for the extended stay that make it such an exquisite retreat: a much larger, longer and more extraordinary beach with great swimming, boating, watersports and snorkeling, beach volleyball, clothing-optional tennis courts, a full grocery and gift shop on premises, a full-service restaurant and bar serving 16 hours a day, 24-hour uniformed security, and many more guests to visit with than the 40 or so that would fill Sorobon to capacity. Club Orient also has the advantage of being on St. Martin, with all of the gourmet restaurants, shopping, casinos and 36 other great beaches. Bonaire has worldclass SCUBA diving, Sorobon Beach Resort, and that's about it. But for those visiting Bonaire for a SCUBA vacation, Sorobon provides a wonderful place to get some sun and decompress in privacy to round out their holiday. For more information:
Sorobon Beach Resort
P.O. Box 14
Bonaire, Netherlands Antilles
BVI: Bucks Island by on the Harry
Pariser
(Ed Note: This article is copyrighted and used here with Harry Pariser's permission.)
Comprising 780 acres in total, Buck Island Reef is the only underwater National Monument in the U.S. Its center, 180-acre Buck Island, lies two miles off the N shore of St. Croix. An incredible 30,000 people visit this seductive nymphet of an island every year. Proclaimed a national monument in 1961, the island was inhabited from the 1750s.
The story of its name is a convoluted tale which has been frequently misrepresented. The earliest evidence comes from a French map dating from 1667 which shows the island called Ile Vert ("Green Island"); the Dutch settlers called it Pocken-Eyland because of the presence of Pokholtz (Lignum vitae) trees which gave it its greenery. An island to the W, now known as Green Cay, was named Ile a Cabritz (Goat Island). In the Danish period during the early 1700s, the names for the caye and the island were transposed in a mapmaking error. Thus, Buck Island should really be known as Green Cay and vice versa!
Today, visitors are permitted onshore only between 8-5 daily. Dramatically reforested since the goats' departure, the island today is as close to nature now as it's ever been. Even though the spectacular stuff is really underwater, it's worth a visit just for the island itself. More than 40 species of birds flutter around 62 species of trees. The island is a rookery for frigate birds and pelicans. A nature trail (takes one hour) runs along the top of the milelong island; follow the trail to the top of the island for a spectacular view of St. Croix. The beaches here (on the SW and W coasts) are superior to any on St. Croix. Watch out for the machineel trees on the W coast and the touch-menot which has yellow needles hidden under its green leaves. Underwater, a 750ft., 45-min. underwater trail is marked by arrow markers; signs identify sea anemones, feather duster worms, sea fans, and a variety of corals. The elkhorn coral here are some of the world's largest known specimens. There are over 300 species of fish including sergeant major, rock beauty, foureye butterflyfish, angelfish, grunts, blue tang, rock beauty, parrotfish, and yellowtail snapper.
Downstairs: Originally a simple fringing reef, a magnificent barrier reef stretches 2,000 yards along the eastern half of the island. Its effect is one of sheer fantasy. Swim past the elkhorn coral that marks the entrance to the reef and follow the markers along the bottom to find your way along the 30-min. underwater trail. While underwater, check out the rainbow gathering of fish including the queen angelfish, the foureye butterfly fish, the smooth trunkfish, and the French and blue angelfishes. Others include the yellowtail, spadefish, red snapper, tilefish, trumpetfish, and several varieties of parrotfish. Fish here are so naive and trusting that they'll eat right out of your hand. While you're investigating the down stairs branch of this living natural history museum, note the primitive multicellular animals. Most primitive of all are the sponges, which come in all shapes and sizes. A dinosaurian prototype of the starfish, the flexible, multi-armed crinoid anchors itself to crevices with its central, white, root-like pedestal. One of many reef organisms capable of producing sounds underwater, the spotted drum (Equetus punctatus) produces a continuous discordant and eerie symphony of snaps, pops, grunts and scraping noises.
Getting there: Access is limited to private and chartered boats.
Concessionaires are licensed by the NPS and must meet strict standards. Expect to pay at least $25 for the 5 1/2-mile sail. A variety of all shapes and sizes of boats (including catamarans, yachts, native sloops, trimarans and glassbottomed boats) leave from Christiansted's King's Wharf. One of the best of these is Mile-Mark Charters (tel. 773-BOAT; 800-524-2012) which has both sail and motorboat trips from $25-$40. Don't worry if you have never snorkeled before or even if you can't swim: They've handled people from Nebraska who've never even seen the sea before! If you're unsure of your abilities just wear a flotation cushion and hold on to the life preserver towed by the guide. Another popular boat is Capt. Heinz's Teroro II (tel. 773-3161/4041), a 42-ft. trimaran.
Note: When planning your trip , it would be best to consider your priorities. For example, do you wish to sail or motor, do you want a glass bottomed boat or not, and how long do you wish to spend on the island? All tours stops at the underwater nature trail for around 45 min. The differences between the trips lie in other particulars. You should ask if the boat will dock at Buck Island or merely anchor offshore. If you want to hike the nature trail, allow for an hour ashore.
Practicalities: If you plan on snorkeling, hiking, fishing or picnicing, pack appropriately. Although there is a well-equipped picnic area, no food is available on the island so bring your own. Beware of sunburn, cuts from coral, spiny sea urchins, jellyfish, fire coral. Never reach into a dark hole lest you be savaged by a moray eel. The white floats are placed there for resting. Maneuver your boat slowly through park waters. For further information contact: Superintendent, Christiansted National Historic Site, Box 160, Christiansted, St. Croix, USVI 00820 (tel. (809) 773-1460).
Dominican Republic: Las Terrenas by on the Harry Pariser
(Ed Note: This article is copyrighted and used here with Harry Pariser's permission.)
This long stretch of the North coast offers some of the nation's finest beaches. At low tide you can walk right out to the coral reefs. Although, it lacks Sosua's glamour, it also has less noise and hassle. Although the area is becoming more and more developed, it still has the informality of a small village and remains highly recommended as a place to go and relax. Secluded Playa Bonita is situated around the headland to the West, and Portillo lies to the East. Humpbacked whales can sometimes be spotted off of the coast in season.
Getting there: A number of carreras run from Sanchez. Expect to wait a long time for the back of the pickup truck to fill up. Avoid the bright red pickup if you can, because the obnoxious owner delights in overcharging foreigners.
The 11 mile (17 km) paved road from Sanchez offers fantastic views--passing rolling hills covered with palms and marvelous overlooks--as you rise and then descend. A new direct road to Samana is under construction.
By car: It would be difficult to find a better use for a rental car than to take it on this road. Although there's no gas stations after Sanchez until Las Terrenas, some homes sell it in gallon jugs.
Orientation: The layout is pretty simple. A main road stretches all the way from Sanchez to Limon, via Portillo. As you enter Las Terrenas, a side road leads off to the left to Punta Bonita, several km away. Pickup trucks terminate at the end of the village; the road straight ahead continues to Portillo. A branched loop road heads off to the left; the bulk of the guesthouses are down here along the beach and on the way. A few others are towards Portillo. As you head towards Portillo, the beach becomes more and more beautiful and less frequented.
Getting around: You can generally get everywhere on foot, and there are no safety problems at present. Motoconchos charge five pesos (40 cents) during the day and ten pesos (80 cents) at night. Locals are charged only three pesos so pestering foreigners is an obsession. These guys work so hard and so late because they've bought the bikes on credit and have to make payments or face repossession.
Accommodation on the main road: Attractive Palococo (tel. 240-6068, fax 2406151) charges from around US$40 d. It has a pool and Jacuzzi. Dinners at its international restaurant are around US$12. Mami (tel. 240-6074) on the main road, also has rooms for under US$5; it can be noisy. Dinny's has plain but breezy rooms near the sea for around US$9.
Beachside accommodation: A number of small hotels/guest houses including Espinal, La Selva, Habitaciones, and Louisiane are off the loop road and near the beach. Most guesthouses and hotels have backup generators; public electrical power is a recent development here. On the road to the beach, Supercolmado Frank has rooms for around US$12. Hotel Tropic Banana (tel. 2406110, fax 240-6112; Apdo. 25, Sanchez, Samana) has a pool and attractive rooms from around US$30 on up. In Montreal, Canada, call (819) 546-7010 or fax (819) 564-8191. With 190 rooms, Cacao Beach (tel. 240-6000 ) is the largest hotel and seems larger than the village. Call 565-2097 in Santo Domingo for information.
Off the main road past Cacao Beach near Coco Loco, attractively designed L'Aubergine (tel. 240-6167, fax 240-60 70) charges around US$16 off season and US$28 during the season. Kursten and Josefina Kramer have three rooms above their "Finchen" Restaurant (tel. 240-6116, fax 240-0670). While the rooms are low priced and very comfortable and attractive, they're best suited to night owls because the restaurant stays open late.
Farther up the same road, Hotel Villa Caracol has rooms without bath starting at around US$9. Its best suites are around $36. In Germany, contact DER ResieCenter Lippstatdt GmbH, Markstrasse 3, 4780 Lippstradt; call (02941) 3185 u. 51 18; or fax (02941) 59685. Another good place to stay is the seaside Kanesh Beach (tel.. 240-6187, fax 240-6070). Rates start from $25 for rooms with overhead ceiling fans. Next is Coralitos, which has villas for rent.
Atmospheric Las Cayenas Hotel (fax 240-6070) which resembles an old Caribbean great house, is the brainchild of Marie-Antoinette Piguet, a Frenchwoman who visited here on vacation. It's powered by solar panels. Rates (which include breakfast and taxes) are $45s and $60d. Farther down this same road on the way to Punta Bonita, the very expensive Plantation Club (tel. 240-6008, fax 240-600 9) is the product of financing by Dominican fat cats from La Romana.
To the West: There are three hotels at Punta Bonita, the German-run 19-rm. Atlantis (tel. 240-6111, fax 240-6101), the Acaya (tel. 240-6161, fax 240-6166) and the Punta Bonita (tel. 240-6082). For information and reservations at the 10-unit Apartamentos El Atlantico, contact Hotel Palacio (tel. 682-4730, fax 800-687-5535). They rent for $35 pn and sleep up to four.
On the Portillo road: Opposite El 28 on the road towards Portillo and run by a very hospitable and outgoing Swiss couple, Los Pinos offers very attractive bungalow ($US 36) and room (US$20) rentals. Designed for Europeans who are used to youth hostel accommodation, their very clean but compact dorm rooms rent beds for $6 s and $9 d (two in one larger bed). Breakfasts are served on the attractive patio. Contact Marlene and Hans Fretz (tel. 240-6168, fax 240-6070). Cabanas Esmeralda is some 150 ft. from the road. Modest rooms with shower and mosquito net cost US$20/db. Bargain during the slow season or if you're staying for a few nights. Owned by a Venezuelan, El Papagayo (tel.240-6095) is right on the road to Portillo as well; it has a very pleasant atmosphere. Rooms start from around $20-$25. It has a restaurant and snack bar. Nearby, Villa Vieja rents a furnished two-bedroom apartment with kitchen for around $25/night.
Popular with Peace Corps volunteers, the lowest priced place is run by Dona Nina off the road to Portillo; ask around for directions. An old Dominican lady, it almost seems as if she stepped over the edges of a historical photo. Her place also seems to be a historical relic as well. She charges US$2 for a full breakfast and US$4 for a room. Dona charges standard rates for soft drinks as opposed to the extortionate D$10 (80 cents) charged by most restaurants. Her favorite but rather suspect phrase is "mi es pobre." Whatever money she garners does not go back into maintenance, and stories are told about her wealth. There's an outdoor shower, and a manually flushed toilet. Be certain not to kill any tadpoles while flushing, or you might find yourself reincarnated as a frog. A large condo project (Villas las Flores) is planned for this stretch of road; it may or may have not materialized by the time of your arrival.
El Portillo accommodation: Head straight from La Terrenas and follow a potholed road for four km to find the simple but attractive El Portillo Beach Resort (tel. 240-6100, fax 240-6104) which has 171 rooms and cabanas, pool, two tennis courts, scuba clinics, volleyball, and horseback riding. It's popular with European package tourists and has its own airstrip. It's a 30-min. flight. Make arrangements with the Prieto Tours (tel. 68 5-0102, 688-5715) in Santo Domingo. El Limon is 10 km farther.
Food: If cooking for yourself, there's a small market and other vendors along the main road. Possibly the best bread in the nation if not the entire Caribbean is baked at Panaderia Francesa in front of Disco El Tiempo. The Dominican baker learned his chops from his French brother-in- law when he came for a visit. Some of the nation's finest seafood dining is in this vicinity. Posada Chez Paco is a good seafood and French cuisine restaurant . French-owned La Salsa is a thatched roof beach restaurant.
Main road food and dining: High priced La Gateria offers deli type food and take out items. Cafeteria des Artes is an attractive French-run place offering local food and atmosphere. "El Capitan" (tel. 552-7593) is a bar and restaurant near Sanchez.
Portillo road dining: Excellent places to eat breakfast are at Los Pinos and at (lower budget) Dona Nina's. El 28 is a small Spanish restaurant on the beach near the beginning of the El Portillo road; it has fish and paella. Comedor La Escala is on the road towards Portillo. "La Canne a Sucre" serves pasta, salad, and crepes at inexpensive prices (starting at US$1.75 for crepes). Casablanca is an attractive bar which has a restaurant in season.
Enroute to and near the beach: La Chicha serves inexpensive Creole food.
Rincon de Fleur is on the water. Near La Louisiane, La Orquidea serves moderately-priced French food and serves Basque food. "La Tita" is another Italian restaurant. Specializing in Basque and French food, Restaurante Jikako is off the road to the beach. Near the beach, Dinny's features a reasonably priced restaurant. Zuni's has good seafood. The French-owned Tropic Banana features gourmet cuisine. "Finchen" Restaurant serves Dominican and German food; it's also a very popular watering hole. Down the road, you can also dine at Kanesh and the attractive Las Cayenas Hotel. Palococo's Los Canarios is the classiest place on the main road. There are a large number of local restaurants on this road, as well as some low budget eating stalls where you can really revel in atmosphere.
Entertainment: Out on the main road, the roar of motoconchos conflicts with that of blaring generators. The singing in the Iglesia Biblica clashes with disco coming from the pub across the street. The night market along this road has a very African feel to it. You can eat rice and beans, fried plantains, meat dishes, and overfried fish. The best disco here is Mambo. El Tiempo has murals featuring motifs such as a melting clock and the graffiti in the men's room is something else! A third disco is Disco Terraza Nuevo Mundo which is down the street from Codetel. Disco Terraza Antony has a "hotel" above it; it's more of a bar than anything else. The intimate Rock Cafe stays open until 4AM or so and fills up after the disco closes. Prostitution is a growing industry here. Right across from El Tiempo, Arco Iris Video shows movies nightly for 40 cents. Some 10 km towards Sanchez, La Raquera is hosted by an entertaining pistol-toting gentleman who resembles the Marlboro Man. At Chichi in the town of Sanchez it self, an old guy plays Latin classics.
Services: There's no bank. You can change illegally, but you get less than you would at a bank. Hotels will only pay D$11.5 per US$. A Codetel office (fax 2406070; open daily 8-8) is on the main road as is Las Terrenas Tourist Service (tel. 240-6088, fax 240-6070). There's also a branch of the Samana Tourist Service here. Western Union is also on the main road. Publishers of the mimeographed free publication Las Terrenas News, Green Tours is near the Tropic Banana. Car rentals (US$60/day) are available near the beginning of the road to Portillo. Along the loop road, the Ranchito (tel. 240-6060) has horse rentals and a trip to the waterfall (advance reservations required). Caribbean Rent-aMotor is on the main road.
Diving: The growing popularity of Las Terrenas has spawned an increasing number of dive shops. Divebold is in front of Coco Loco. The Stellina Dive Center (tel. 240-6000, fax 240-6020) is a German-operated dive operation in the Cacao Beach. German, Italian, Spanish, and English are spoken. In addition to two dive boats, they also have a glass-bottom boat. In Zurich, Switzerland call 01/531 18 09 or fax 01/431 02 57. Several souvenir shops are on the main road.
From Las Terrenas: Buses leave at around 5 and 7 AM (yawn!) to Santo Domingo and from 8 to Nagua. In the past, transportation to Limon is scarce. You must hire a motoconcho. From there you can go on to Samana. Otherwise, if you wish to head for Samana, you must backtrack to Sanchez.